RMweb Gold 81C Posted November 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2017 The Oxford GWR AA1 toad is now available it's a nice model except it does have several faults with it which I will leave to the experts to give their summary. I've offered it up to one of the Airfix models and is the same size should any one want to mix and match the ends, for £12.5 its cheap enough to take the razor saw to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted November 18, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2017 A brace of Toads! Bachmann; Oxford 6 wheel; New Hornby and Ratio. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 (edited) You know a brace is two right ? So you have a brace of braces :-) Edited November 18, 2017 by lofty1966 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 81C Posted November 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2017 You know a brace is two right ? So you have a brace of braces :-) Lofty how many have you ordered and will you be correcting them ?. BTW if you want spare Bachmann body shells for replacement ends there is 15 to buy now at £2 each on fleebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-BM6-33-301E-BR-Toad-Brake-Van-Body-W114854-Seconds/310855512819?hash=item48606eb2f3:g:03kAAMXQeKNTPX-5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted November 18, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2017 You know a brace is two right ? So you have a brace of braces :-) Apparently a group of Toads is a Knot! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 A brace of Toads! Bachmann; Oxford 6 wheel; New Hornby and Ratio. D6BA7D84-80C4-4DE2-B2A3-C30F6213D8D5.jpeg I prefer the Banana! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Lofty how many have you ordered and will you be correcting them ?. BTW if you want spare Bachmann body shells for replacement ends there is 15 to buy now at £2 each on fleebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-BM6-33-301E-BR-Toad-Brake-Van-Body-W114854-Seconds/310855512819?hash=item48606eb2f3:g:03kAAMXQeKNTPX-5 I have one on the way and two more ordered. Waiting for the first to arrive to assess what it's going to take to improve/correct them. Bought a new tube of filler in preparation;-/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Why were 6 wheels brake vans needed ? How common were they ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted November 19, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 19, 2017 Why were 6 wheels brake vans needed ? How common were they ? Its an older design than the more modern AA21 / AA23 etc. So in their day, there would have been loads of them around. I suspect if you model BR 1950's the answer will be very few. But for a 1930's layout, such as Henley, there will be quite a few. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 In the mid-1930s, there were between 2k and 2.5k Toads around. Only 62 AA1s. Their increased braking power was matched by the far more numerous heavy AA2s and AA3s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted November 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 19, 2017 As Miss P says, the 6 wheelers were never a majority of toads and were allocated to specific duties that required their extra braking power. Later 4 wheeled vans were able to equal their braking power and the build was not repeated. GW toads were solidly built and had long lives, the 6 wheelers lasting well into the 50s. The authority granted to me by Rule 1 requires one to be allocated to the Cwmdimbath branch which features a 1 in 30 gradient (not actually modelled) between the station and the colliery ground frame. I can live with it's faults, and it will make a nice change from the larger vans; I am particularly impressed with the separate handrails at this price level, and now I have found that it features basic internal detail as well Ox have a guaranteed sale once they bring out a BR or late GW (small initials) liveried version. Temptation might get the better of me before this and a re-liveried GW one, heavily weathered, might well turn up branded for Tondu sooner, modelled with the door and rear window open to display a fully detailed interior! An Ox 4 wheeler is on the list as well! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 (edited) Well ,my Oxford Fail toad turned up so I set to it with great gusto. Kinda wished I hadn't. One thing I learned pretty much straight away is how delicate the chassis is. Lots of detail and intricate but why go to these lengths when you can't get the basics right ? Bl##dy mad ! Handrails are seperate but plastic and were mishappen straight outta the box. Be worth an extra couple of quid for Oxford to put wire ones on ! As I was nibbling away at the centre sway links I discovered that whatever plastic Oxford have used it is unbelievably brittle and added to that not even MEK seems to make a strong bond between any bits you might break (yes, I managed to break several pieces) If you are adding parts from another product/kit MEK seems to work ok. One of the leaf springs snapped as I removed the sway link and I also managed to slip with my scalpel and cut a brake arm and take out an end sway link. Was not a happy chappy. Trying to glue the brake arm was where I discovered that the Oxford plastic is not keen on glue. I glued it back in but at some point further in the work it fell off and disappeared into the jaws of the hardwood floor monster never to be seen again despite looking for about 10 mins so Had to make a new one. Grrrr... The added hangers are from a Parkside Dundas Mink D kit which has spare spring/hangers on the sprue(not used on the D kit) Probably best just put up the pix and see what you think. P.S. I didn't bother lowering the end windows.I felt I wouldn't get a good clean finish. Edit. Pix have appeared all over the place and not in the order of upload. Sorry ! Edited November 22, 2017 by lofty1966 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 I'll need to saw one of my AA3 chassis down the middle, and widen it. Then add compensation or springing, as it will be using P4 wheels. Brittle plastic that doesn't like glue should add to the fun! How did you remove the lettering? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 I'll need to saw one of my AA3 chassis down the middle, and widen it. Then add compensation or springing, as it will be using P4 wheels. Brittle plastic that doesn't like glue should add to the fun! How did you remove the lettering? It looks to me as if a scratch-built chassis would be an easier option for P4 than trying to rebuild the proprietary one, although it looks as if it might be possible to salvage the side-frames by cutting immediately behind them with a razor saw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 It looks to me as if a scratch-built chassis would be an easier option for P4 than trying to rebuild the proprietary one, although it looks as if it might be possible to salvage the side-frames by cutting immediately behind them with a razor saw. I'd thought of slotting the axle holes in one end, and having a central pivot for the axle to rock on, but if the plastic is brittle that doesn't seem like a good idea. Maybe I'll replace the w-irons with one of Bill Bedford's etches. I'll need to fit grease axleboxes anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 (edited) I'll need to saw one of my AA3 chassis down the middle, and widen it. Then add compensation or springing, as it will be using P4 wheels. Brittle plastic that doesn't like glue should add to the fun! How did you remove the lettering? If you bridge the gap with plasticard you will probably get away with it.With all that brake rigging set for 00 though, I am not sure it’s worth it. Lettering removed by the simple expediency of a glass fibre pen. Edited November 22, 2017 by lofty1966 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 If you bridge the gap with plasticard you will probably get away with it. With all that brake rigging set for 00 though, I am not sure it’s worth it. Lettering removed by the simple expediency of a glass fibre pen. I think the brake rigging may have to go. It probably won't stretch to 28.08mm gauge! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 81C Posted November 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2017 I'll need to saw one of my AA3 chassis down the middle, and widen it. Then add compensation or springing, as it will be using P4 wheels. Brittle plastic that doesn't like glue should add to the fun! How did you remove the lettering? John I've removed the lettering with brake fluid and the paintwork left intact, brush on a smear leave for 15 minutes then remove by rubbing with a cotton bud the lettering will come off with the fluid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 John I've removed the lettering with brake fluid and the paintwork left intact, brush on a smear leave for 15 minutes then remove by rubbing with a cotton bud the lettering will come off with the fluid. I felt the colour was a too light so resprayed much darker, hence the fibre pen approach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 If it turns out to be too light, I was wondering about darkening it with a Letraset Promarker. I've got them in a variety of shades of grey, so it would be good not to damage the paintwork. Not sure how it would work on the surgery needed on the end though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 81C Posted November 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2017 I felt the colour was a too light so resprayed much darker, hence the fibre pen approach " Post No 3000" I'm spraying mine but trying to preserve as much as possible the original paint surface and only putting on one light coat to save loosing detail which is very fine on this van and my spraying efforts can go seriously wrong, so far I've buqqered a 30xx body, Hall body, 22xx body, 2 coaches and several LNER wagons as the paint was carp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Decals on , ready for a Matt varnish tomorrow 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 (edited) Toads in the hole ! A selection of Toads through the years. Airfix, Dapol, Replica, Hornby 'top link' Bachmann, Latest Hornby, Oxford Rail and an old K's kit awaiting buffers. No Mainline as they are buried so deep I was scared of unleashing a Balroc! I am awaiting a D&S kit to wing its way across the Atlantic at some point too. I tried glazing some of them with Glue n'glaze but they really haven't come out well. Edited November 24, 2017 by lofty1966 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 24, 2017 The AA1 looks a little odd, with only a partial lower handrail on the cabin, when compared to the others. Nice collection of toads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 81C Posted November 24, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2017 SS the hand rail is correct as per prototype the rail was fitted like this when new in the early 1900's, there is an AA3 at Didcot still sporting them. There is a photo on the attached a just down from the top. http://www.gwr.org.uk/nobrakes.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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