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Evergreen make some half round section plastic strips which is good for guttering. Although its solid, not hollow, it is not really noticeable. I model in 7mm scale and use it but I am sure they do something smaller suitable for 4mm scale.

 

Alan.

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I agree with Alan and Jack, I have used styrene strip to do gutters and down pipes for various buildings.

 

This is the stuff:

 

2.5mm Half-round rod for the gutters,

 

post-17302-0-91089300-1380215238.jpg

 

and 2.0mm Round rod for the downpipes,

 

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And this is the result when painted up:

 

post-17302-0-20708200-1380215269_thumb.jpg

 

 

Al.

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Same here. I actually trim along the length of the half-round so that it has a flat back at 90 degrees to the top (e.g. the flat section tha represents the upper part of the gutter) and then glue it to suitable lengths of Microstrip. I then remove some of the paint from the building and glue them on; as I am sure you know, glueing plastic to painted plastic ends up with the affixed part being, well, not affixed any more.

 

To attach the gutters, I have tried a few methods. One way is to twist steel wire around something round and leave a bit justting out of the back. This can then be slid over your downpipe (I use the same as Al, only 60 thou rather than 80) and attached to the wall by drilling holes with a pin vice and glueing them in. The other method is a lot more involved but is what I have used on the below; that is to make your own brackets.

 

To do this, I took a length of Microstrip and scored / filed a groove down the middle. I then chopped cross-ways into small pieces (I have a North West Shortline Chopper though, which makes this easy) and glued the downpipe to them with it set into the groove. I then went a bit bonkers and wrapped Microstrip round the downpipe and glued them to the brackets which makes them look better but boy, is it ever tedious and annoying to do.

 

DwainePipe014_zps6086a9c8.jpg

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Not finished yet (in fact, not too far along at all) but here is my latest building, based on the Lancashire Sock Manufacturing Co Ltd in Bacup, Lancashire.

 

Mounting board with Slaters Embossed Plastikard glued to it. The plastikard is 4mm Dressed Stone and is painted and weathered whilst a full sheet as painting the mortar courses and weathered stone in the window recesses is a pain if you try to paint them when the building is constructed.

All window recesses have the plastikard folded and glued in, areas for lintels and sills removed and then Plastikard is used to represent them. I know many people stick these on the outside but on this building and many others, they are flush with the stone walls.

 

This is all the walls that need covering, some lintels and sills fitted but many others still to do. Windows will be Microstrip, doors will be scribed Plastikard, roofs will be mounting board with paper slates.

 

The front wall measures 650mm........

 

LancashireSock001_zps1029f384.jpg

 

Close up and the bay window (lots of messing around with Plastikard)

 

LancashireSock004_zps59317244.jpg

 

The real building (my version is truncated as I have no room for the taller section on the left). It is a lot cleaner nowadays than the period I am modelling although round the corner, there is still a filthy wall that they have never bothered sandblasting.

 

LancashireSock_zpseed1cb41.jpg

 

Edit - obviously the arched doorway on the far left is not there on the original but I wanted it and so it is there :D

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Jason, that's coming on a treat! Nice one, mate.

 

 

 

Just a couple more thoughts on downpipes.

 

Like Jason, I use microstrip for the brackets, although I don't go to the lengths he does in scoring it.

 

I simply loop a length round the downpipe, glue it at it's closest point to the pipe, and then open out and flatten the ends to make the bit that attaches to the wall.

 

post-17302-0-66328700-1380222198_thumb.jpg

 

To make the elbows, you can heat up the rod and bend it, but I prefer to cut the rod at a 45 degree angle and insert a short straight length between the cut surfaces. I then file off the excess. I reckon this gives a closer approximation to the real thing, where elbows tend to be a separate unit:

 

post-17302-0-47719800-1380222214_thumb.jpg

 

Al.

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That sub station (?) is superb. The level of detail is excellent, but you have really managed to get the concrete looking very real, which always seems to be a challenge.

 

One of the real joys of this thread is see the diversity of the types of buildings people make, from the humble outside privy, giant Victorian warehouses, to modern technology and concrete constructions.

 

Jamie

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I know its a very long shot but looking at Stuart Birks exquisite buildings reminded me of a book that was in the school library at Barnstaple (over 35 years ago!) that had drawings and models made from them of typical Cotswold buildings made from card if I remember rightly. I think there was a cottage, larger house, market hall, church and ruined castle. Does it ring any bells with anyone?

 

A totally different subject but I am blown away by Celticwardogs substation (is that the correct term?). So beautifully observed.

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This is my attempt at a Midland through station in North Yorkshire in 1908.  The footbridge is a very old George Allan kit, lamps and water columns are Mikes Models, the low relief houses/shops along the back are modified Metcalfe Models.  I wish I had seen what Jason (Sandside) on his Bacup layout has done, might have had a go myself, and, of course, the figures are from numerous sources.   However, all the remaining is scratch built.  The buildings from Plastikard covered in 'base' plaster and scribed.  When I started modelling the Midland back in the 1950's there wasn't much available so it was scratch building or nothing.  This layout was started in 1985. .  I cannot now climb up on a pair of steps to clean it , so please excuse the covering of dust  Still runs well, the nearer tracks are my son's 00, the far tracks are EM.

post-6110-0-52165500-1380898292_thumb.jpg

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Lovely piece of work. Very good sky sets off the narrow selection of tones really well. Very evocative. Any other pictures?

Nice to hear that as you have trouble struggling to use it yourself nowadays that your son now uses it. Very sad when an owners work gets broken up because they can no longer maintain it.

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Thanks Jaz, sadly my son left home some considerable time ago and lives about 180 miles from us.  He now has a wife ,son and two daughters of his own.  He lost interest when at uni but now at the ripe old age of 39 he has regained it with a vengeance.  He is into '0' gauge Midland/LMS  and I have spent the last few years building 7mm locos for him.  Couple more pics showing the 00 section in action, both dreadfully out of period. 

Derek

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post-6110-0-25533900-1380985926_thumb.jpg

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this is a picture of the tunnel ive just scratched built for grange lane junction its in n gauge and the first thing ive scratchbuilt its made out of mounting board card with slaters plastic brick sheet and painted in ayclic paint

i no its not up to the standed of the rest of you so please be kind lol

 

 

brianimage_zpse36b1e9a.jpg

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