cromptonnut Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 There's a Wickes just a few miles from me, and I had been considering something like that. Flexitrack is £7 a metre. Cheaper if you buy a boxful. You get 2.4 metres of angle for £9 so that's 1.2 metres for a length of angle, plus the cost of the wood for the base. Probably not a great deal in it price-wise? But you do at least get a bit of side-play protection with the angle to stop stuff falling off sideways so it's probably worth it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike knowles Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 I have been looking at a Aluminium angle, not the most exciting task. I think I might as well try making the cassettes properly and use aluminium sides. Wickes supply the angle at a decent price (other DIY stores are available). http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/invt/162679/Aluminium-Angle-25x25x2400mm_large.jpg I am off for half term, so I think I will build some then. I hope Wickes will cut the angle for me, If not I will have to buy a decent hack saw. Thanks to Colin for sending me an article about building the cassettes. Dougal. I bought the alloy angle for our club layout from an aluminium stockholder (Eltheringtons of Hull in our case). About half the price of the DIY stores and they cut it to length for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 I came across someone's suggestion who uses square/flat bottom guttering with a piece of track glued to it for his cassettes, maybe give that a try (?). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 I came across someone's suggestion who uses square/flat bottom guttering with a piece of track glued to it for his cassettes, maybe give that a try (?). Yes, I have seen that idea too. Somewhat inelegant, but quick, simple and with no risk of out-of-gauge track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Wickes won't cut stuff, I've tried to get them to do so. Elf and safety..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 I came across someone's suggestion who uses square/flat bottom guttering with a piece of track glued to it for his cassettes, maybe give that a try (?). Yes, I've seen someone using this stuff too I seem to recall they found some offcuts in a builders skip.... Re cutting timber etc My local B&Q is the only DIY shop which will now cut wood Others used to, but they all seem to have stopped offering this service some years back Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Aha, I have found a supplier that will cut the angle for me. There are loads of different thicknesses of angle offered. Can anyone suggest what thickness i need? The company appears to take orders in inches such as 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8" This might as well be in Klingon! Any advice welcome. Dougal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted October 15, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 15, 2013 as long as the thickness is greater than your flange depth you'll be fine The dimensions will be side 1 x side 2 x thickness of material (I believe) so the one you quote will be half inch on each axis and made from eighth inch thick ally ( 12mm and 3mm respectively) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 15, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2013 Love the concept of this layout - lots of opportunity for good modelling without taking it all too seriously. Just what the doctor ordered Father. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 For O gauge cassettes, I think the 1" x 1" x 1/8" is the best size. This will stand up to whitemetal locomotives. 1/8" thickness is the same as the height of Code 124/125 rail. Account for the thickness of sleepers and your underlay and this should tell you what thickness of wood you need to make the base of the cassette. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 For O gauge cassettes, I think the 1" x 1" x 1/8" is the best size. This will stand up to whitemetal locomotives. 1/8" thickness is the same as the height of Code 124/125 rail. Account for the thickness of sleepers and your underlay and this should tell you what thickness of wood you need to make the base of the cassette. Ok, that really helps thank you. All I need to do now is work out how many lengths I need to make the first batch of cassettes and 4 shorter lengths to form the docking points with the track. Dougal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Ok, that really helps thank you. All I need to do now is work out how many lengths I need to make the first batch of cassettes and 4 shorter lengths to form the docking points with the track. Dougal If I was doing this (which I'm seriously contemplating now) I'd just use a couple of short lengths of 2-3 inches, long enough for a couple of screws to ensure alignment, turned round the other way to "slide in" to, on the baseboard that I'm aligning the cassettes up to. So looking end on... _| |_cassette_| |_ If that makes sense...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 If I was doing this (which I'm seriously contemplating now) I'd just use a couple of short lengths of 2-3 inches, long enough for a couple of screws to ensure alignment, turned round the other way to "slide in" to, on the baseboard that I'm aligning the cassettes up to. So looking end on... _| |_cassette_| |_ If that makes sense...? Yes, I had a similar idea to guide the cassettes. If I align them correctly I don't need an additional piece for the cassette to dock with. Dougal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 ...Just what the doctor ordered Father. Doctor Sinnott! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 The last time I saw this system of cassettes, there was a short piece that the cassette would dock with. Metal bulldog clips were used to create electrical continuity. I reckon that you could do something effectively with some pieces of wood screwed to the baseboard top to act as a guide/dock and brass strips to make wipers that would create the electrical continuity when you docked the cassette in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 I started on a small scenic area, just in front of the fiddle yard area. I decided to model a simple wharf by the brewery. This was a test piece for using DAS. I tried to depict cobblestones on wet DAS- it was ok, but the cobbles looked too defined and circular, instead of an oval. The hut is one I knocked up years ago. Barely room to turn around inside I would imagine, but it looks ok. This is a view by the Wharf. I have made a start on the timber detail. I plan to sculpt DAS inbetween the timber posts. I will probably depict water using PVA over a coloured base and coated with lots of gloss varnish. This shot shows where the station platform will go. I plan to model the platform into the fiddle yard to create the impression that the platform is much larger than it really is. This is the other end of the layout. Bit messy at the moment! Dougal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Great ideas flying around for this layout. On the subject of aluminium angle for the cassettes, I think I read somewhere that when you pass electricity through aluminium it oxidises on the surface? Meaning the pick up won't be great. I could of course be completely wrong (it has been known!) Worth checking though.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I like the concept of using aluminium angle (if only solid brass equivalents were readily available for the same price-range!!!) - I'd be tempted to run lengths of rectangular brass section atop the aluminium (rivetted) to form the gauge and be responsible for electrical transfer..... Quick sketch from AutoCAD. Pop-rivet the brass to the aluminium (figure out a good way of electrical connection back to the baseboard - press plungers or something??), then screw the aluminum to a timber base. Just a quick thresh-out. Be quite quick and easy to keep the brass clean on the running rail surface. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 With the cost of brass strip, I am starting to wonder if it would be easier to just put flex track onto strip of plywood and then use thinner ply to form the side walls... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 Great ideas flying around for this layout. On the subject of aluminium angle for the cassettes, I think I read somewhere that when you pass electricity through aluminium it oxidises on the surface? Meaning the pick up won't be great. I could of course be completely wrong (it has been known!) Worth checking though.... I think you are correct. The other issue is the way the aluminium is ground by the constant passing of wheels, which creates a very fine and dirty dust. I expect both of these issues would only affect the model in extreme cases though! Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 Work progresses on the dock area. Today I have added the DAS. The wooden piece below the DAS will form the ''Water line'. I plan to use a simple base of PVA painted to look a dirty grey shade and the coat with high gloss varnish. I have used this method before and it looks effective. I have practiced scribing a few test pieces of dry DAS. sadly, I can't upload this image as the file size us too large. Dougal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 With the cost of brass strip, I am starting to wonder if it would be easier to just put flex track onto strip of plywood and then use thinner ply to form the side walls... Maybe something like this: klick me! Works a treat – should have made more of these… Cheers Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike knowles Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 On the subject of aluminium angle for the cassettes, I think I read somewhere that when you pass electricity through aluminium it oxidises on the surface? Meaning the pick up won't be great. We had serious problems with this on the cassettes for Battersby North End. Ultimately we revised the cassettes using normal flexitrack to run the stock on with a length of aluminium angle either side just for strength, all glued/screwed to a ply base. Problem solved! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Ok, 1 whole week to work on the layout. I cleared the local DIY store out of aluminium angle yesterday- I managed to break my 'budget' hacksaw blade after a few seconds work. I think I will buy a better one. Dock area under construction. I have managed to scribe most of the wall sections now. I am happy with the stone colour, but I might add a few more washes yet. The 'water' is the first coat of PVA. I want to create the effect that the water could almost spill out from the layout. This is the last wall section, prior to scribing. I like the stone effect, but It really makes my fingers sore. A closer view of the stone work. Not bad for a first attempt. Dougal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJL Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 My first visitor to the layout! image.jpg Once I had 'encouraged' the cat to go somewhere else, I could begin laying the foam board on top of the base board. The foam had bowed a bit, so I had to improvise with a few heavy items. image.jpg Once the PVA has set I can add the dividing Backscene for the fiddle yard. This will be removable so that I can get to the track easily if I need to. Dougal. I don't think the Cat is to scale there Father ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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