PETES WORKBENCH. Scratch building a LSWR 0395 class, long term project

[N15class]

Things have been a little quiet with this, I have not been able to get to the work shop, but when I have been able to grab the odd hour I have been doing this rather than the 850 class I should be working on.

 

Well the progress so far. The compensation beams have been cut out and the axle holes opened out to bush size. Any other adjustments will be made once the beams etc are all fitted.

 

 

After the frames were assembled the the front axle bushes were temporally fitted so that the spacings and the beams could sorted and fixed. You may notice the spacers are fitted the opposite way around I realised there were or would be clearance problems later on.

 

Once the bushes were fitted I made and fitted the front central pivot for the three point compensation. and then removed the front two frame bushes. These were modified to run between two bits of angle as horn guides. The front frame hole were then elongated ant the centre and rear were just enlarged to allow the beam movement. Wires for the brakes have also been added.

 

That's it for now one rolling chassis. Now to get the loco to the same state.

[N15class]

Having got the basic loco frames together. I spot soldered the front two bushes in place. I was able to set the compensation beam and bushes.

 

I tried the wheels and it ran very nicely althouth the bushes are still a little tight.

 

 

After this I I fixed the centre pivot for the front axle. Once this was done I removed the front bushes and made adjustments for using square bushes and angle for guides.

 

 

 

Then I found out that there was a major problem, something must of gone wrong somewhere as both sets of frames actually ended up the same hieght as they should be.

 

Well it is now time to get on with cutting some parts. I need to get the brake parts cut out. I have also decided I need to get most of the dummy valve gear made, some will be castings I all ready have, the rest will be cut from sheet. Next post maybe sometime as I ought to get on with the 850. It will be hard as I am really enjoying this.

[N15class]

I had posted a couple of questions in the Southern railway section but have had no success.

Firstly I need to know the position of the injectors prior to them being moved to between the rear drivers. I cant work out if they are between the frames or behind the steps. 

Secondly I presume the vacuum cylinder when retro fitted was in fitted in front of the brake cross shaft.

Thirdly, did the tenders keep the tool box on the rear of it, also did they gain any at the front, because there seems to two no the GA drawing I have.

There does not seem to be any photos of the tender tops, or clear ones below the footplate, these places seem to be very camera shy.

[N15class]

I know I said it would be a while before I posted again. But I was looking at the drawings trying to figure out what was what with the parts required for the chassis. I just got carried away. and started marking out parts while the ideas were fresh in my mind. One thing leads to another and I found not only had I marked them out but I had cut them out aswell. I still have a few bits to do but I think they will come as it is all assembled.

 

In the first photo, the top to rows are the parts for the eccentric rods.Bottom left is the ash pan and fire box bottom, centre are the tenser brake hangers, and right the loco hangers.

 

 

 

Whilst things were going well I decided I ought to look at the other parts.

 

In photo 2 there are, starting with the connecting rods and going clockwise. Next are the con rod crank sides, these may be remade out of thicker material, I will see later. Then expansion link sides. Next the parts for the weigh shaft, counter balance arms need to do the weights, the lift links, reversing arm, and finally the lifting arm.

 

 

 

 

Well next is put all these together and see if my grand plan works.

 

By the way were these locos single or double slide bars.

 

I am hoping the are single as I have castings that will do. If not some more parts to make.

[Michael Edge]

It's not clear from the side view GA which is all I have but there's a lower slidebar showing - most probably it was the usual four bar arrangement.

[Sandy Harper]

Nice fretting out Peter. How did you achieve the curved slot in the expansion links? I always struggle with that.

 

Sandy

[2ManySpams]

"One thing led to another"! Good grief Peter, you've been busy!

 

Is it your intention to carry on not posting for a while ;-p

[N15class]

It's not clear from the side view GA which is all I have but there's a lower slidebar showing - most probably it was the usual four bar arrangement.

  

Thanks for the reply.

Looking at mine again I can now see the bottom one. If it is a four bar one I have one in stock. Along with a single one. No one used to take photos of boring things like inside motion.

 

 

Nice fretting out Peter. How did you achieve the curved slot in the expansion links? I always struggle with that.Sandy

Hi Sandy

I just marked with calipers using the length of the eccentric, then used the piercing saw and then tidy up with a half round needle file. Flat for the convex and round for the concave.

[N15class]

"One thing led to another"! Good grief Peter, you've been busy!

 

Is it your intention to carry on not posting for a while ;-p

You never know. As I had the parts cut, it seemed wrong not to start putting them together. It is going well at the moment, I will get the morning session out the way and post how things are going.

[N15class]

Here we go with a photo overload. I decided to carry on with the assembly of the bits for my 0395, I will go back to the 850 next week. The parts are almost ready to add to the chassis, I just need to do some soldering on it before I start putting these parts in position.

 

We start with the eccentric rods which went together almost as I wanted, I still need to add some details such as nuts etc. but I wanted to make sure it all went together before adding the tarty bits. The expansion links were assembled with a piece of tube at the bottom and the lift link at the top. I still need to sort the block for the piston rods.

 

 

 

The reversing beam was next, It fitted together very well except I made the reversing arm wrongly, it needs a s bend in it to clear the boiler. I will remake next week now

 

 

 

 

 

Just to show it will fit into the space it is supposed to. Lots of joints need to be soldered these will be done near the end of the fitting, once all the parts are between the frames, that way I know it will go in again when it is removed.

 

 

 

I remade the connecting rod crank sides the originals I made were to thin. These and the connecting rods are now ready for detailing. Again they are not soldered up properly yet. But as can be seen they fit together well.

 

 

Having looked at the drawing again I have to agree with Micheal Edge. It has a 4 bar slide bar arrangement. I fortunately had a lovely casting for the right parts from Laurie Griffin. Looks like I need to order another one at least for the 700, and maybe the A12.

 

 

I will now get on with brakes, I still have the shoes and pull beams and rods to sort out here. This will then clear most of the hot soldering and the valve gear which has a few white metal casting can be added.

Edited September 5, 2014 by N15class

[Sandy Harper]

Nice work Peter.

Sandy

[N15class]

Nice work Peter.

Sandy

I decide as I had a cast set of dummy inside gear I would add it. But like all things it was not right and would not fit. So instead of saying well it was worth the try and then getting on with the build without. Some idiot in the back of my head says, well why not scratch build it. You know it will look good sitting between the frames, with a low slung boiler, to make it invisible. If nothing else it will be practice for the 700 which has so much space under the boiler you could park a bus there. Now do I make that one work!!!

[dajt]

That's very impressive. I wish I could cut small parts out that neatly!

[N15class]

I know I said I was going to get on with the one the pays. But I am weak willed and carried on with this.

 

I had been trying to find out what happened when these were vacuum fitted. I have gone with the loco and tender kept their steam brakes and a combined brake valve was added for the train vacuum. Pure guess work no doubt someone will come up with the right answer not I have done the work.

 

I had previously made the brake hangers ash pan. The hangers had a short spacer from tube added so that they can be attached with a nut securing them. The cross ties were made and again the ends threaded so they can be held by nuts, (no not the one building it)/ The mount for the cylinder and pull shaft was made and fitted. You will notice that some fool made the frames too short at the back. It was all then assembled with the pull rods. From the photos I see a few bits need tidying up. I used some Slaters plastic brake shoe. They are in halves and should be made up. I just uses the halves as it hard to notice when all painted and you can do twice as many. Must get some more.

 

 

 

The net bit was to fit the slide bars and crossheads.

 

 

The con rods where then finished and added. I was very pleased at how easy these went together and fitted in the frames.

 

 

Next up was the fitting of the valve gear. which again was easy once I got the parts the right way around. Only about 8 tries. I added a short piece of tube for the block, it is almost impossible to see, and slips over the valve rods to hold the front in place as with the con rod crosshead assembly they are removable once the axle is withdrawn, makes painting easier.

 

 

 

That's your lot for the moment, I will try fitting the motor next and do the brakes on the tender frames. There pay also be the possibility that the 850 comes down from the window cill.

Edited September 10, 2014 by N15class

[jazz]

Very impressed, you are whetting my appetite to do another scratch build for my collection

[2ManySpams]

Peter, could you do some photos of the compensation beams and the method you've used to fix them in place please.

 

(sorry if I've missed the post with these in)

[N15class]

Very impressed, you are whetting my appetite to do another scratch build for my collection

Thanks Ken

I started this as a gap filling project, but it seems to be taking over. I always enjoy and get inspiration from your builds.

Peter, could you do some photos of the compensation beams and the method you've used to fix them in place please.

 

(sorry if I've missed the post with these in)

Chris

 

I will do I not at the bench today so will sort it out hopefully tomorrow.

[2ManySpams]

Thanks you.

[N15class]

Hi Chris

Hope this helps.

 

 

Right I start with the beam, You will see that I have used a Slaters crankpin bush as a pivot. I put them in so the flange is between the beam and the frames. If I am cutting my own beams I use the frames as template for the axle bush holes, and I always put the pivot a millimeter or two towards the outside wheel. This loads the outer axles slightly more and means the inner one moves up and down easier. Any discrepancy with the holes is sorted out later. The axle bearings are fitted later.

 

 

 

Next I used the beams with the bushes pushed in to drill the hole in the frames, This is actually done before the pivot bushes above.

I then countersink the hole on the outside, I then solder a countersunk screw in from the outside the use of countersunk ones is to give more surface for the solder so the head can be filed flush.

 

 

I then tack solder the front bushes into the frame, checking they are square in all directions and in the place. I then put the beams in place with a piece of paper between them and the frames. A little smear of oil on the paper also helps stop the spread of solder. The bushes are pushed in from the inside. Then into the jig with the coupling rods adjust with files to get the rods fitting nicely. You will see why the front bushes are soldered in cos everything falls apart a dozen times. If only I could find my springs that fit these bushes.

 

 

This is how it all looks when completed. They are removable for painting etc. The hole in the frames are now enlarged, just enough to give about millimeter travel in total. I normally just ream bigger it is all hidden behind the wheel centre. The second photo here shows the way scorpion did the same thing on their 850 class. not removable, easy to solder solid. You will see one mine there is pace for a thinned down wire for the brake hanger and the dummy ash pan sides with no lose of movement.

 

 

Now for proper 3 point compensation the front axle needs to pivot across the frames.

My method here is to fit the central pivot with the temporary bushes in place. this makes ride height setting very easy. Here I have used some heavy gauge wire and a round bearing that I have had no other use for. Once in place I remove the bearings from the frame, and file the the top of the hole to allow 0.5 mm upwards travel of the bearing, then cut out the bottom completely. Using the chassis jig and coupling rods again I fit some small angle against the sides of Slaters square bearings, again the wrong way around to get a bigger bearing surface on the angle. The outside of most of the bearing need to be reduced to allow minimal side slop on the axles. A 0-6-0 really needs very little play and then only on the centre axle.

 

 

Hope that that helps. It has just taken me longer to sort out the photos and explain than it did to do.

 

[2ManySpams]

 

Fantastic Peter, I suspect that it will come in very useful on the O2 if I get through the 1366 unscathed....

 

 

Many thanks for your time.

[N15class]

As an aside Chris it all still works with the motor on the outside end of the beam and all the valve gear all hanging on the other. I had it all running today, just need to put a torque arm onto the motor or gearbox.

[N15class]

I made a start cutting out the levers etc, that are required for the drain cocks these will be seen fitted tomorrow I hope.

 

But whilst this was happening the loco was having a running session on the rolling road. One tight spot on the coupling rods which two turns of a broach sorted out. Everything must be just right as I needed to add some weight to stop it doing wheelies.

 

 

With luck tomorrow should see the loco frames ready for painting which will be done at the same time as the 850.

[dajt]

That axle with the square bearings and center bush... Is the center bush quite loose to allow the axle to pivot up and down while the square bearings prevent fore-aft movement?

[N15class]

That axle with the square bearings and center bush... Is the center bush quite loose to allow the axle to pivot up and down while the square bearings prevent fore-aft movement?

The centre bush is a little loose but not to loose. Just enough to allow the axle to pivot. I used a taper reamer from either side. This one is just for ride height and a pivot, it is not for spacing.

 

Yes the square blocks are to keep everything in line.

Edited September 16, 2014 by N15class

[N15class]

Just a little done today. I have remade the revering arm, and now the whole lot has been fixed to the frames.

 

 

I also finished off the drain cock linkage. It is not an exact replication but where it shows it looks right. As you will see from the side view. It also shows I need to have a bit of a clean up. There is a lot of oil about, which I was using to help stop anymore rusting of the steel components.

 

 

Finally I thought I would show you what I came up with for the torque arm for the motor. It is a 1mm brass wire threaded 14BA at one end. This has a nut either side of the frame spacer, and I am hoping this will allow final adjustment as it is a bit tight in the firebox.

 

 

I am now back to the 850, but I am hoping to be able to get the brakes fitted to the tender. Which will be a milestone achieved, the frames finished ready for painting. Then it is onto the bit that hopefully makes it looks like a 0395