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PETES WORKBENCH. Scratch building a LSWR 0395 class, long term project


N15class
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Hi Pete. It's coming along very nicely. Referring to your question regarding the trouble you took in the dummy valve gear and not seeing much of it.

 

I once asked a fellow fastidious modeller why on earth would you install all the boiler tubes inside the boiler never to be seen.  His reply, "Because I know they are there".

 

No answer to that really.

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Hi Pete. It's coming along very nicely. Referring to your question regarding the trouble you took in the dummy valve gear and not seeing much of it.

 

I once asked a fellow fastidious modeller why on earth would you install all the boiler tubes inside the boiler never to be seen.  His reply, "Because I know they are there".

 

No answer to that really.

Thanks Ken

I was unsure to mark your post with thanks or funny as it made me smile. But There really is no answer. I am sure it will look good when it has had me daub it in paint.

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Peter, do you do all your modelling on the window ledge?

 

Not anymore, I used to do it all on the balcony ledge when I first came here. But it is a fine place to take the photos. Saves me bending down to much.

 

Anyway on that window sill you leave anything metal up there and it sometimes gets too hot to touch. I left a Slaters open wagon on there while we went away for a week. it had a decided sag in the middle on my return.

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I have made a start on the tender body. I also have done a couple of little bits on the loco.

 

Lets start with the tender. The footplate was the first part to be cut. The hanging plates where cut when the loco ones were done, so I just need to do the drag beam and buffer plank. I have a feeling I will need to redo the drag beam as I think I have the radius on the ends wrong. I will have to have a study of some pictures to check.

The next part to was the actual frames these are a couple of pieces of 0.015" sweated together then I glued a drawing to it as per my usual way. Once these where done the beams and hanging plates where soldered in place. The frames are only tacked at the moment. They will be finished next session. I did have to cut clearance for the wheels although it should not of been needed, Over sized flanges I expect, as they were only just touching.

 

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The parts on the loco are, cab splasher covers. Then there is the firebox supports which were solder to the firebox and made from some 1/16" brass I had. Unfortunately it as I found out 70/30 so was a bu99er to shape. They do not look much for the time they too;. I just need to figure out how to form some 1mm angle to fit between the cab and firebox. The final parts for the loco were a disc behind the smokebox door and the smokebox  door. This still needs detailing but it is a start.

 

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That's it for now hopefully on with the tender body tomorrow or Thursday.

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It's all looking superb but I'm particularly impressed with the forming of the smokebox door. Is it turned or formed or what?

In awe...

Jon F.

Thanks Jon

 

Smokebox door is a cheat. It is a very nice pressing from Laurie Griffin's range, that I had in stock.

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Well I was checking the photos today, yes I have remade the drag beam looks much better. Now have to do the loco one as well. This is what comes of not paying enough attention at the right time.

 

I have made a start on the tender top, I will post when I have something that looks worth while.

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Well it soon takes shape a good morning at the bench and you have a tender. But unfortunately there is now a lot of work to make it look like a real tender.

 

But first the drag beam. I made and fitted a new one on the tender, looks much better. but it does show I need to change the loco one too.

 

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Back the the tender top. Well, first you get a set of parts. Here they are already to put together.

 

 

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I just wish it was that easy. I had a bit of a fiddle to get the rear corners right. They are not to bad, a daub of solder and a clean will sort out the rest. You will see I am a bit forgetful so mark things up to aide grtting it the right way around.

 

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Just tack soldered together, but for some reason which I will sort tomorrow there is a little twist in the top. A trial fit on the frames to see if all was square. I have noticed a kink in one flair that will also be dealt with in the AM.

 

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The tank front in all the pictures is just resting in place I want to do some detail work on it before it is fixed. I am not sure yet whether I will screw the tank down or solder it. As it is all black I am not sure if it will aide the lining. At this stage you just have to do it. See how the loco and tender look together.

 

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Looks like a loco now. As we used to say when building a house, the roof is we are about half way through. It is looking like I will have something to put Laurie's lovely casting on in January.

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Pete, just been catching up with this project. A treal treat. It's a bit like watching a real loco come to life on the shopfloor (not that I've witnessed it, sadly).

 

It will be interesting as I have had loads of things sent to Mums over the last 2 years. I have forgotten a lot so will be "just like Christmas"!!!!

 

That does sound a bit like childhoood re-lived. Will it be tricky getting it all back to Brazil? I don't imagine it will be allowed in the carry-on luggage, but I suppose they're used to seeing odd objects in the checked luggage. 

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It will be ok as checked luggage, last time we had an to have an extra bag. We are quite luck we get 2 bags of 32Kg each if coming from here so I can get quite a lot back. But still have loads of books I want to get here. Thats the awkward bit because of their weight.

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Here is the progress so far.Not much to show for a lot of peering through magnifying glasses at drawings and pictures trying to make sense of the front of the tender. I think it is about right, but if any one has a picture of the front of one. I would love to see it.

 

Well, just to show how long I keep things some nickel silver I bought and had not used until this model. But I do not remember when the shop closed except it was when my kids were small, they are now all close to 30.

 

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Back to the job in hand. I detailed the front of the front plate. The sandboxes where cut and folded then filled with 230 solder, once cleaned the sand pipe was added from wire, the filler and lever were ones that looked close from the stock box.

 

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I needed to reenforce the bottom of the sides to keep the straight and to give me something to make fixings in. When the four fixings places were added to hold the top the the frames.

 

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Then floor and fall plate were made and added next. Also you can see the shovel plate and the representation of sliding doors to the coal space.

 

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I have mad a start on the tool boxes, I am just trying to decide if I make the lids opening.

 

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Showing where they will fit but they will be raised of the floor a little.

 

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I have started the large tool box for the rear of the tender but this work was done after the pictures were taken. Again I will have a look at hinging the lid if this can be done without making over scale hinges.

 

The front handrails and the tender rear will be the done after the tool boxes have been finished.

Edited by N15class
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Today has been spent finishing off the tool boxes. I did try to make the lids open but I was unhappy with the size of the hinges they where to over scale for my liking, even though they used 0.35mm wire for hinge pins.

 

So they all now have fixed lids and dummy hinges. The front ones are fixed to the sides, I had no idea of how the brackets that it would of had underneath worked, so as it can't be seen no harm done.

 

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I also made the front handrail brackets and added the handrails. This was done in such a way that the body still comes off of the frames.

 

 

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The rear tool box which is huge. This is screwed to the tender top as I thought it would be easier for painting. Looking at the drawings I could not find any indication that it had a two piece lid. To me it seems far to big. But then it would not bounce open. I am still undecided whether to scribe it and have two lids.

 

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Still to do is the rear details, the beading around the top edge, and of course the coal rails.  It also has a lamp iron each side just behind the cab entrance.

 

The more I work on this, the more I realise the poor old fireman must of spent a lot of time in the tender shoveling forwards, as I reckon unless it was really rough riding the self trimming capability was non existent.

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Today I spent what seemed like a long time today but without very much to show for it.

 

I started by adding the beading from half round brass wire. Which was fiddly to straighten, as it can't be spun like round wire. I am pleased with the result anyway.

 

Next up where the lampirons on the tender. The LSWR used sockets not tangs. I made a little jig to make the flat ones. I need now to sort out the ones that sit on the footplates etc, I have mde them before but it is so hard to make all the sockets the same. I will look into that on Monday.

 

To do the sockets I soldered two pieces of 1/32" Nickel silver to a sheet. One is used for sizing and the other for shaping. I then made a form to fit over the die and to shape the strip used for the iron. I rounded one end of the strip then laid it over the die with 2mm over hang, placed the form over the top and squeezed it together in the vice.

 

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I then cut the formed piece of and placed it on the other strip. I then filed the cut of end to length.

 

 

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By moving the iron up I was able to easily hold it to radius the end.

 

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Here are a few I made. I am pleased with them they all look consistent.

 

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I have now fitted these to the tender. You eill notice the centre top one hangs down on a bracket. When change to the tang type they were mounted above the beading. Photos of the rear of the tender are a bit like rocking horse ####. So things here are take solely from the drawing. I have noticed the vacuum pipe is on the right on both loco and tender but in the photos the loco one moves around a lot. so will need to see what I can find out with the one I want.

 

Hers today's work in place.

 

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Hi Peter. Probably teaching you to suck eggs here.  I straighten wire, round or half round, by clamping one end in the vice and a good grip on the opposite in pliers and snap pull it straight. Works a treat every time. (Best done before you cut to short lengths obviously)

 

Great way to make those lamp irons BTW.

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