jazz Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Ho Boy, Peter. The more I look at your beautiful Beattie Well Tank, the more I have the urge to build one. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I have been playing today. I thought I would like to make an axle run more as it should rather that float across the frames as usual, All in all it seems to have worked when it goes in it's set of frames I will know for sure, I will need to use some form of downward and centralising springing. b.jpg c.jpg d.jpg e.jpg If you go to my blog you will see the loco this one is destined for. Lovely bit of work Pete! I have a long term plan to get hold of a kit for an L&Y long bunker 2-4-2 radial tank so a couple of these would be very necessary! Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 Ho Boy, Peter. The more I look at your beautiful Beattie Well Tank, the more I have the urge to build one. Go we need more models of them. There was a thread started for people to show their BWT, there are 2 on there. You get plenty of choice on what they look like too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 Lovely bit of work Pete! I have a long term plan to get hold of a kit for an L&Y long bunker 2-4-2 radial tank so a couple of these would be very necessary! Jon F. I was surprised how easy it actually was. Once you have the radius worked out it is just two sets of tops and bottoms that will fit one inside the other when 010^is added to each side. Just need to remember to make the inner one wide enough to take the axle. Don't ask how I know it is important. I sure it would make a 2-4-2 travel with less waddle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) I was surprised how easy it actually was. Once you have the radius worked out it is just two sets of tops and bottoms that will fit one inside the other when 010^is added to each side. Just need to remember to make the inner one wide enough to take the axle. Don't ask how I know it is important. I sure it would make a 2-4-2 travel with less waddle. I'll be interested in the side to side control method too ! Jon F. Edited March 20, 2015 by Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I have recently completed the conversion of an O gauge fine scale scratch-built Hull & Barnsley Railway F2 class 0-6-2T to Scale 7 standards. As built, the locomotive had a conventional pivoted pony truck, but I decided that the new frames would incorporate a radial truck as per the prototype. What I produced was almost exactly as used by N15 class. The one thing I didn't originally incorporate into the design was side control or any type of springing imparting a downward force on the top of the radial truck. Test running clearly showed that some type of springing was needed to keep the radial truck in contact with the track at all times. What I devised was two springs baring down on the top of the radial truck. This arrangement worked extremely well, but also unexpectedly gave a degree of side control, which makes the radial truck behave prototypically. In the next couple of days I will post a sketch showing the arrangement I used, which hopefully will assist Peter in devising how he will achieve side control of his radial truck. Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 I have recently completed the conversion of an O gauge fine scale scratch-built Hull & Barnsley Railway F2 class 0-6-2T to Scale 7 standards. As built, the locomotive had a conventional pivoted pony truck, but I decided that the new frames would incorporate a radial truck as per the prototype. What I produced was almost exactly as used by N15 class. The one thing I didn't originally incorporate into the design was side control or any type of springing imparting a downward force on the top of the radial truck. Test running clearly showed that some type of springing was needed to keep the radial truck in contact with the track at all times. What I devised was two springs baring down on the top of the radial truck. This arrangement worked extremely well, but also unexpectedly gave a degree of side control, which makes the radial truck behave prototypically. In the next couple of days I will post a sketch showing the arrangement I used, which hopefully will assist Peter in devising how he will achieve side control of his radial truck. Dave I think I will be putting a slot into the front of the outer part and a hole to take a wire spring, and set to give downward pressure and biased to the centre. Similar to what can be used on a normal pony truck. I did see somewhere a single spring set up but can't remember the set up or where I saw the article. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Further to my post on the 20th March about radial axle-boxes, as promised, here's a drawing showing the method I used on my Scale7 conversion of a Hull & Barnsley F2 0-6-2T locomotive. Dave 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Further to my post on the 20th March about radial axle-boxes, as promised, here's a drawing showing the method I used on my Scale7 conversion of a Hull & Barnsley F2 0-6-2T locomotive. Dave That looks very good. I have seen a single spring centrally over the top. It looks like you have the springs pressing directly on the top of the axle is that the case? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Hi Peter, The springs are directly above the axle centreline bearing down on the radial axle-box assembly. As I said in my first post the arrangement works extremely well, was not devised to give any side control, but does keep the radial truck in contact with the rails at all times and negotiates complex track/point formations with no suggestion of de-railing at any time. I did try to devise some method of side control, but because of the limited space/clearances I gave up on the idea. I have heard other people who've dabbled with side control suggest that they came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the effort. However that's not to say it's unworkable, it obviously worked at a scale of 1" to the foot. I'm just of the opinion that because of the masses and forces involved at 7mm scale it's unlikely to have any significant effect on the performance of the locomotive as a vehicle. Having said that, it's a challenge that interests me and I will continue to attempt to devise a workable solution. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Hi Peter, The springs are directly above the axle centreline bearing down on the radial axle-box assembly. As I said in my first post the arrangement works extremely well, was not devised to give any side control, but does keep the radial truck in contact with the rails at all times and negotiates complex track/point formations with no suggestion of de-railing at any time. I did try to devise some method of side control, but because of the limited space/clearances I gave up on the idea. I have heard other people who've dabbled with side control suggest that they came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the effort. However that's not to say it's unworkable, it obviously worked at a scale of 1" to the foot. I'm just of the opinion that because of the masses and forces involved at 7mm scale it's unlikely to have any significant effect on the performance of the locomotive as a vehicle. Having said that, it's a challenge that interests me and I will continue to attempt to devise a workable solution. Dave Hi I do like to have side control on ponies and bogies as it makes them work for their living. I will try my idea about control and see how it works. If no side control it will have a downward spring. It will be interesting, It is all a bit of an experiment. I know the principle works it is more to see if my modelling is up to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 I have put the radial box into the frames. I works very well. Once I have all the wheels sorted out I will try my method of side control. I have made a slot in the front and a hole for a wire in the axle box. The set up in the frames, as you can see there is plenty of side play. I am hoping it is enough, but will be a couple of days before I get back to the workshop as SWMBO is off sick. Next up is a view that just shows the slot in the front. Like a fool I never thought about about taking one. Hope to do more experiments in a day or two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hi Peter, Your radial axle-box arrangement is looking good. I look forward to seeing the results of your endeavours. Regards, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 (edited) I have been using these motors for a while on locos that will accept them. I am using the last one I had in stock. can anyone let me know what it is and where I may find some more? They are larger than the standard 1833 motors. I have a feeling they were sold with the A3 project. The fixing holes are in the wrong place so I make up a little adapter plate. It is a fiddle sometimes but works well. The picture shows one fitted with a Roxey 26-1 fold up box. Edited May 3, 2015 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Just had a delivery from Metalsmiths. Should be enough metal to last a couple years. Enough I hope for another two scratch builds. But mainly lots of wire and tube in brass and nickel, my stock was getting desperate in some sizes. Like Nickel 0.7mm for handrail, just one length left. The worst bit of living here is the over £50 delivery charge. Just aswell Metalsmiths prices are so good. Still waiting for other parts to arrive. Hopping they will not be too much longer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 14, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 14, 2015 Have the bits to complete the Ivatt tank arrived yet? You seem to have been waiting for ages. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Have the bits to complete the Ivatt tank arrived yet? You seem to have been waiting for ages. Not yet. I can't get hold of Laurie to get the tracking number from him, since he took the payment. I find it is best to start badgering the post office here about a week after the stuff arrives in the country. I have just had the metal that was ordered about the same time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 15, 2015 Hi Peter, I must be going mad, I don't think I've seen this thread before! Have to read through it, as an 0395 may be a future project Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Hi Peter, I must be going mad, I don't think I've seen this thread before! Have to read through it, as an 0395 may be a future project Cheers, Dave. Hope that you enjoyed the read. The 0395 to me is a pretty little engine. I like the early 700's too, but for some reason I have the superheated one to build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) Just a trial to see if I can actually upload videos. If it works you I will be pleased as it adds another dimension to my posts. You can see the build of the V3 on my blog. Excuse the noise the bearings on the rolling road are shot and the marble does not help matters either. Edited May 16, 2015 by N15class 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 16, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 That works well Pete. Looking forward to other build videos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 16, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 Hope that you enjoyed the read. Certainly am, although I'm only up to page 10 so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Certainly am, although I'm only up to page 10 so far. It is always a pain joining a thread late. It is a lot of reading in one go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Just a trial to see if I can actually upload videos. If it works you I will be pleased as it adds another dimension to my posts. You can see the build of the V3 on my blog. Excuse the noise the bearings on the rolling road are shot and the marble does not help matters either. Blimey it is noisy, I can hear over here in Devon Sorry, only joking, looking good keep it up ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 I do need to invest in some new bearings these are getting very wobbly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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