N15class Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I am trying to sort out the casting for this. I need the Drummond chimney rather than the stove pipe one. Does any one know whether it is the same as any other? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Does Laurie Griffen not do a 0395 Drummond chimney? He does the fabricated one which I assume is the stove pipe. But cant find the drummond one except the M7 etc. have sent hime a couple of emails but no reply. Is it different to the one on his website? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 I see what you mean. I could ring him for you, it does not cost me anything. Best do it next week. I do not like disturbing sole traders at weekends. I have been looking at the drawings in Russell's Southern locos. Measuring up it looks like the 0395 had the same Drummond chimney as the M7. It would be nice if this could be confirmed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 17, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 17, 2014 Chimneys. Don't you just love chimneys... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Chimneys. Don't you just love chimneys... I have 3 stove pipe chimneys in my collection not one is the correct one for the 0395. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Finally done some more on this. I have also put in an order with Laurie Griffin for some of his lovely castings. The latest progress was to hat the brakes for the tender frames I also noticed the water feed pipe and tap are very visible so I these. I was going to model it with the tap in the off position and see how many spotted it. But I had soldered it together before I realised how far I had gone. I had also forgotten the loco springs so I have now added these. I now just need to make the conection between the two sets of frames, and add the injectors after I get them from Laurie. I also made a start with the loco body. The footplate, buffer and drag beams and the hanging plate wre all made and assembled. Next task will be splashers and cab. No rush as I am getting the parts sent to mum's, and I will only get them at Christmas. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Well that's the bank account a bit lighter. A whole host of castings on their way to mothers ready for me to collect at Christmas. I really wanted them to be delivered here, but I cant trust the post to get them here before our holiday. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 Well that's the bank account a bit lighter. A whole host of castings on their way to mothers ready for me to collect at Christmas. I really wanted them to be delivered here, but I cant trust the post to get them here before our holiday. I'm sure your mum will love the present. Does Laurie Griffin do gift wrap? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 I'm sure your mum will love the present. Does Laurie Griffin do gift wrap? Well, as of our conversation yesterday she is saying the few bits I asked her to look after for me have started taking over the second draw in the spare room. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Not much done to this week, lack of working days. But I have manages to cut out the splasher sides and the cab sides and front. As you will see some twit drilled the handrail hole in the cab side. this will be rectified when the handrail is soldered on. Next up will be the detailing of the cab sides and front, then it can be added to the footplate. I also need to check the footplate as I think he who made the cab handrail wrong has made the footplate 2mm too long. I will check when I get back to the bench on Monday. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 31, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2014 Very nice Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I want to get the basics done, so that in January I can start adding my castings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 I'm very much looking forward to this, you've made a good start, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Well we are now onto the bit that will make all the work on the frames either worth while or a waste of time. I have fixed the handrails and cab opening beading. The sides where then added to the front, which has had the window frames put in. I will add the floor which is only about 2mm high and then see if I can make the cab removable. You will see my geometry is not up to scratch as I made the front sheet a little short. But with an infill and heavy soldering it will soon be gone. The next job done was the middle splasher tops. which have a nasty little reverse curves at the ends. I have started the smokebox so that I can sort out the front combined splaher/sandboxes. So why did I pick a pretty little Victorian engine with a sloping smokebox front. I would of been posting this too with a normal one but this is proving a little troublesome to get looking right. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Had a good day today. although it does not look like much it is the basic parts for the loco in their basic form. As I said yesterday the the smokebox was being a bit of a trial. I think wanting it removable was holding things up. I have changed my mind now and I think it will be better fixed, but it can all change as I proceed. The smokebox has been built as a unit with the front splachers and sand boxes. Once I had the angle right for the front it was plain sailing if a little fiddly. I partially cut out the front of the can this is so the motor will fit, but it will not protrude into the cab. All the parts so far resting on the footplate, once the boiler is made I will start fixing them down. You will see I have a 1mm rod running through it all this helps me see if it is all at the right level and if in line. Next I had time to cut out and roll the boiler. I have to make some discs for the ends for securing to the rest, the firebox needs to be shaped, these are all jobs for Monday. The easiest and quickest bit to make and it changes a collection of parts into something that looks like a loco. Hopefully Monday will be boiler and a start on the tender, which needs starting as I like to finish the tender before the loco. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Plenty of nice curves there. Looking very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Plenty of nice curves there. Looking very good. I think the curves are in place of thousands of rivets. Not sure which is worst. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Crackin' job again Peter, very, very nice..... George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Crackin' job again Peter, very, very nice..... George Thanks George It is a long time since I scratch built a loco. I am really enjoying it, always looking to get back to the bench. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Progress is not as quick as I thought it would be. I have formed the cab floor and started on the cab splashers. I also made a mistake with opening in the front of the cab so I needed to cut the bottom off of it and remake the splasher portion. I will soon have to start assembling the components onto the footplate. I have also formed the firebox which just needs a little more work to fit even better to the cab front sheet. I have left the front long so that when all assembled it will sit between the frames. I could not add the bottom half of of the firebox front to the frames as usual because of the compensation beams. The bottom of the firebox sides still need to be fitted to the footplate but I need to do a few bits before that can happen. I still have not made a start on the tender, I am hoping that will be on Thursday. Tomorrow is weekly shop day and we also need to sort out some parts of or upcoming holiday. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 That looks well Peter! Are you using a resistance iron on any parts? I'm just getting the "feel" of mine and I'm fishing for tips! I've managed a few small overlay bits and a couple of small brass castings all using solder paste from a syringe... Cheers Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 That looks well Peter! Are you using a resistance iron on any parts? I'm just getting the "feel" of mine and I'm fishing for tips! I've managed a few small overlay bits and a couple of small brass castings all using solder paste from a syringe... Cheers Jon F. Yes I am using the RSU on this but for this build I am doing the tack soldering with a 50W iron. Then when I am happy I use the RSU. I used to use the solder cream but mine when funny and I found it hard to bet out of the syringe. So I went back to cutting little bits of 188 or 145 with lashings of home made phosphoric acid flux. I tend to do it all with the RSU. if I am putting on small overlays I will tin them first often before cutting from the fret. I also us the RSU for adding larger white metal castings. If you can get behind them I put the probe on the brass and a chip of lowmelt and the casting on the front I hold in place with a cocktail sick or similar, a couple of dabs on the foot pedal and its all done. I have only had one disaster and that was because I was using the foot switch with my heal instead of turning the switch around. For the thinner overlays I tend to use the the side of the chamfer rather than the point. I find it gives a more even heat. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Yes I am using the RSU on this but for this build I am doing the tack soldering with a 50W iron. Then when I am happy I use the RSU. I used to use the solder cream but mine when funny and I found it hard to bet out of the syringe. So I went back to cutting little bits of 188 or 145 with lashings of home made phosphoric acid flux. I tend to do it all with the RSU. if I am putting on small overlays I will tin them first often before cutting from the fret. I also us the RSU for adding larger white metal castings. If you can get behind them I put the probe on the brass and a chip of lowmelt and the casting on the front I hold in place with a cocktail sick or similar, a couple of dabs on the foot pedal and its all done. I have only had one disaster and that was because I was using the foot switch with my heal instead of turning the switch around. For the thinner overlays I tend to use the the side of the chamfer rather than the point. I find it gives a more even heat. Thanks Pete. I'm still practising with it, changing the voltage etc.JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 I made the fixing points for the footplate to the frames. I had to make two under the cab as the brake cylinder is in the way, one at the front as usual. I was then able to line up the centre splashers and solder them in place. On the back of the smokebox there is a ring that is smaller than the smokebox but thicker than the boiler bands. I fitted this and will use it to hold the front of the boiler in place. I have done this before and it works quite well. After fitting this ring I tack soldered the unit to the footplate. The next job was to fit the boiler unit to the cab and make the adjustments so that it would sit nicely on the footplate. I needed to reduce the length of the boiler slightly, I am not sure what I got wrong but now the smokebox and the cab both sit in the right place. Here is how the firebox front works. It still needs some fitting including a couple of folds to make a step in it. Which will be fun as I forgot to do it earlier. Although it is almost impossible to see, it stops a lot of light that would show. It also makes you wonder why you put so much effort into the dummy valve gear. Maybe there will be more to see when it is painted red? After a bit of fitting. There were a couple of bits on the frames that needed sorting to get everything sitting nicely. I managed to tack solder the cab/boiler unit in place. This is only a temporary measure while I drill the holes etc for it to be held in place by screws. Now I suppose it is time to say can you see what it is yet. Hopefully tomorrow I can sort the cab fixing out, Then I can do the cab roof and splasher tops. I also would like to get the smokebox door and it's ring fitted. I suppose it is then down to detailing or as much as can be done without the casting. So this should mean a start on the tender body. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks Pete. I'm still practising with it, changing the voltage etc. JF I really tend to use mine a lot. I have gone back to an iron for a few things, but that is only because I have a nice 100w antex now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now