A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[jonhall]

What rev of the software are you using Jon? My new yesterday Portrait has rev 3 and the most uptodate is well into rev 4. The latest (US) version works for me; success, only taken all day.

 

pixscan wasn't available on v2, I've used v3 and v4, but pixscan only with v3

 

Jon

[Stubby47]

I drew these up in the basic Silhouette software earlier, then cut them from 10thou plasticard.

 

 

[Hroth]

I drew these up in the basic Silhouette software earlier, then cut them from 10thou plasticard.

 

20171011_132500.jpg

 

20171011_132538.jpg

Seeing as the Cakebox competition is going to take yay long, I'll unbox the Portrait that I bought the last time Yolo had a special offer, and learn how to use the software to create some fancy components too!

[Stubby47]

Seeing as the Cakebox competition is going to take yay long, I'll unbox the Portrait that I bought the last time Yolo had a special offer, and learn how to use the software to create some fancy components too!

Having already made sash windows and caravan sides, these arched beams are the first time I've created a laminated item.

 

It seems ( so far) the only limits are your imagination and how to split a 3D design into cut-able layers.

[bgman]

Having already made sash windows and caravan sides, these arched beams are the first time I've created a laminated item.

Looking fine Stu, just out if interest how many layers are you laminating ?

[Stubby47]

Looking fine Stu, just out if interest how many layers are you laminating ?

Just 2. Most of the beams will be hidden under the bridge, but should allow a sight-line through the holes.

 

The outer beam will be painted in colours, the rest will be left in primer grey.

[bgman]

Just 2. Most of the beams will be hidden under the bridge, but should allow a sight-line through the holes.

The outer beam will be painted in colours, the rest will be left in primer grey.

Ah, just thought I'd ask because of the possibility of "warping". I'm sure you're already aware but I'll mention anyway just in case.

When laminating I've always used odd layers to prevent this happening and to date I haven't had any problems.

[Stubby47]

I have heard of that theory, but have not had problems with two layers of the same material.

 

Plus there will be additional relief added to the outer beam, maybe on the inner ones too if they are more visible ( than planned).

[dhjgreen]

People avoid warping by using D-Limonene, there is a lot on this topic about it.

[Stubby47]

People avoid warping by using D-Limonene, there is a lot on this topic about it.

I have some of that but have not found it able to actually stick anything together...

[chris p bacon]

I have some of that but have not found it able to actually stick anything together...

 

It's not as aggressive as Mek so I rub a card nail file over the surfaces first to rough them up, don't have any issues after doing that.

[dhjgreen]

I have some of that but have not found it able to actually stick anything together...

Mine is labelled orange terpene. I have just tried Javis (what Arcadia stock) and it grabbed just as quickly as MEK without any surface prep. FYI I read on this topic that Javis should be cut from the shinier side.

Edited October 12, 2017 by dhjgreen

[TheQ]

At our Club show last weekend, we had Steve Parsons, demonstrating  a silhouette, to make Caledonian cattle wagons. He was using D-Limonene, and once glued immediately placed the piece between two sheets of glass with a weight on top. He seemed to have no problem with distortion or ungluing.

Edited October 26, 2017 by TheQ

[dhjgreen]

At our Club show last weekend, we had someone demonstrating (Malcolm Cooper?) a silhouette, to make Caledonian cattle wagons. He was using D-Limonene, and once glued immediately placed the piece between two sheets of glass with a weight on top. He seemed to have no problem with distortion or ungluing.

Thanks for that; obvious, but someone has to think of it.  I am now the proud possessor of 2 sheets of custom cut glass (sharp edges removed)  I have also ordered my hair clips to go with them.

[Robin2]

2 sheets of custom cut glass (sharp edges removed) 

I bought 5 pieces of glass recently (nothing to do with modelling) and it seemed that having them toughened (with etched BS marks) and smoothed edges was standard - in other words when I asked to have the edges smoothed and the glass toughened there was no extra charge.

 

Prior to that it was very many years since I last bought glass.

 

...R

[chris p bacon]

For those with their own bits of glass it's very easy to chamfer the edges.

 

Just use an oilstone run along the edge at 45 degrees and it will take the sharp edge off. Obviously make sure your hand and fingers are well away from the glass edge and preferably wear a pair of heavy gloves.

[Londontram]

Post deleted as problem sorted

 

                           Thanks Steve

Edited October 15, 2017 by Londontram

[Dave 46]

Hello all, new member here.
I have been reading this thread, (I'm up to page fifty something) and have bought a portrait.  I am interested in cutting card, and didn't want to use the expensive supplied blade for this, so have bought a CB09.

I have a couple of questions - I'm sorry if they have been answered and I have missed it.

When doing a practice cut on cerial packet card (Morrisons bran flakes) about half a mm thick, I set the blade projection to about half a mm, and when cutting the blade retreated back into the body of the cutter.  Has anybody else had this problem?  I managed to cure it by wrapping tape around the adjusting screw to lock it.

The other question is with respect to scribing.  I note that the cutting blade can be screwed out to project about 3mm.  Has anyone tried grinding down the end of a blunt blade to a point to make a scriber?

Regards  Dave
 

[Steadfast]

Maybe I'm missing something with the scaling issue between Inkscape and Silhouette studio, but I just draw a box of known dimensions around all the parts. Once imported to Studio, select all, and group them. Then just type in the size of the outer box in the resize option. Simple and works every time for me

 

Jo

[Londontram]

At our Club show last weekend, we had someone demonstrating (Malcolm Cooper?) a silhouette, to make Caledonian cattle wagons. He was using D-Limonene, and once glued immediately placed the piece between two sheets of glass with a weight on top. He seemed to have no problem with distortion or ungluing.

Which show was that Q? as I'd just done the exact same demonstration at the Aylsham (Norwich) show building a Caledonian cattle wagon

 

As a rule I use a couple of frosted glass table mats from one of these cheap (QD) stores but we scrapped an old wall unit that had some glass shelves which were already chamfered at the edges which are see through that I used at the Aylsham show.

 

                       Steve Parsons

Edited October 26, 2017 by Londontram

[TheQ]

Which show was that Q? as I'd just done the exact same demonstration at the Aylsham (Norwich) show building a Caledonian cattle wagon

 

As a rule I use a couple of frosted glass table mats from one of these cheap (QD) stores but we scrapped an old wall unit that had some glass shelves which were already chamfered at the edges which are see through that I used at the Aylsham show.

 

                       Steve Parsons

My sincere appologies I must have got the wrong name from the catalogue I wasn't sure, that's why I put the question mark, I now know who to blame for making it a certainty  I'll be getting a cutter...

I found your Demonstration excellent at Aylsham, and your responses to my questions very informative. I'll go back and edit the post with the correct name..

 

I've no doubt I'll be dragged into QD tomorrow in Norwich, which makes a change form Lathams in Potter heigham (same company).

Edited October 26, 2017 by TheQ

[dhjgreen]

Hello all, new member here.

I have been reading this thread, (I'm up to page fifty something) and have bought a portrait.  I am interested in cutting card, and didn't want to use the expensive supplied blade for this, so have bought a CB09.

I have a couple of questions - I'm sorry if they have been answered and I have missed it.

When doing a practice cut on cerial packet card (Morrisons bran flakes) about half a mm thick, I set the blade projection to about half a mm, and when cutting the blade retreated back into the body of the cutter.  Has anybody else had this problem?  I managed to cure it by wrapping tape around the adjusting screw to lock it.

The other question is with respect to scribing.  I note that the cutting blade can be screwed out to project about 3mm.  Has anyone tried grinding down the end of a blunt blade to a point to make a scriber?

Regards  Dave

 

I have read most of this topic and there are posts on the CB09, but I do not recall seeing your problem being discussed. Likewise scribing is discussed in some detail, I think with a standard blade but using a different colour of line which defines a lower cutting pressure. If no one comes along you may have to keep reading. Have you tried the standard blade for any cutting?

[Londontram]

My sincere appologies I must have got the wrong name from the catalogue I wasn't sure, that's why I put the question mark, I now know who to blame for making it a certainty  I'll be getting a cutter...

I found your Demonstration excellent at Aylsham, and your responses to my questions very informative. I'll go back and edit the post with the correct name..

 

I've no doubt I'll be dragged into QD tomorrow in Norwich, which makes a change form Lathams in Potter heigham (same company).

Here's a link to the cattle wagon in question

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78165-steves-caledonian-coaches-wagon-work-bench/?p=2901589

[Dave 46]

I have read most of this topic and there are posts on the CB09, but I do not recall seeing your problem being discussed. Likewise scribing is discussed in some detail, I think with a standard blade but using a different colour of line which defines a lower cutting pressure. If no one comes along you may have to keep reading. Have you tried the standard blade for any cutting?

 

I have tried cutting copy paper (120gsm) to make window framing, and was pleased with the result.  The narrowest part I left was 0.5mm, I think from what I have read this is probably the narrowest that can safely be cut.

 

I wish I had more time, even after retirement there still seems so much else to do, but I may try cutting some of the styrene sheet that I found that I have had since the 1960's (as well as more modern stuff).

 

Dave Smit

 

 

 

[dhjgreen]

Yes many people say 0.5mm min and 10 thou max thickness plastic card. Did you see my reminder to cut the shiny side if there is one?

 

I have just been creating station totems. Design in word quite large, import then use the outline cutting tool. After that select all and shrink to size. If you select outline after shrinking the resolution is too low. They are not perfect but make a lot and pick the best. The registration marks are needed of course.