The Furness Valley Railroad

[81A Oldoak]

My Christmas pressy last year was the Banta kit for Strong depot...

 

http://www.micromark.com/strong-depot-model-kit-o-scale,9041.html

 

I didn't build it then as I had nowhere to put it but now that I need it for Stoke's Ferry I am treating it as my Christmas project this year.

 

If you are interested I will post some of the steps as I go. If you want to see more just click "like" - if nobody does I will just post a few photos of the finished building.

 

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First there is a box like structure to put together at one end. So that the other parts fit well it's important that this is put together square. Here is the first joint set up square.

 

 

The wall piece is held tightly against a steel block...

 

 

...by four very strong magnets. I run aliphatic glue, which is very runny and penetrates well, along the joint and then leave it to set. the label on the bottle says "10 minutes"  - I got on with preparing other parts, so it had well over half an hour.

 

The next step is to assemble some other parts which make up the box.

 

 

The accuracy of the parts is excellent and the fit really good but they do need a little help if they are to set square. In the photo above you can see that I have moved the steel block and the magnets to the second wall. The four ribs that will support two bay windows are in place and I have placed an engineer's square against the wall I glued first. The whole assembly, including the square, is held snugly together with two long elastic bands.

 

Here I am running in the glue...

 

 

You may recall that earlier in this topic I explained that I shortened the metal tube applicator on my bottle of glue. It is very prone to clog up but with it shortened it can be cleared, either with a length of steel wire or, if the clogging is really bad, with a 0.7mm drill in a pin-chuck.

 

Here's the "box" with the glue set and the rubber-bands etc removed.

 

 

The next two walls are in place but dry - no glue yet. This was to test the fit, which you can see is excellent. This is due to two things - the tabs and slots in the kit are really accurate and will serve to hold parts in place while glue is added and my efforts to get the first bit of the assembly square have worked.

 

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A comment about the steel block and the magnets (which I bought from Phil' of Hobby Holidays)

 

You do need to be very careful when placing or removing the magnets. The force exerted is very strong and they will jump into place. The impact of this is quite enough to snap thin wooden or plastic parts if they are not well supported. As much care needs to be taken when removing the magnets - sliding them sideways is often more controllable than pulling them off.

 

Incidentally, the steel block has been milled on all six faces and all the corners are accurate right angles.

 

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I also did a couple of tests yesterday to check whether the glues I am planning to use would work on painted surfaces.

 

 

I had painted two scrap pieces of wood siding with Tamiya acrylics as a colour test. I glued two other wood scraps to these, one with fast PVA and the other with aliphatic. Both glues seem to work well on the painted surfaces.

 

Chaz

Chaz,

Micro Mark is a very interesting business with a massive range of products. Its recently retired president Tom Piccirillo is an outstanding 7mm scale modeller. I visited him a few years ago at the firm's base in New Jersey to discuss distributing the Ixion 0n30 Coffee Pot in the USA during a business trip to New York. After spending time at Micro Mark's HQ, I visited Tom's home to see his truly stunning 7mm scale Somerset County Traction system. It is huge and almost all of the locos and rolling stock on the overhead electrified short-line are scratchbuilt. Attached is a short clip of the layout. My Cwm Bach layout is 15' x 2', but one can dream.

 

http://mrv.trains.com/layouts/layout-visits/2015/03/mrvp-layout-visit-tom-piccirillos-o-scale-somerset-county-traction-system

 

Chris

[chaz]

Chaz,

Micro Mark is a very interesting business with a massive range of products. Its recently retired president Tom Piccirillo is an outstanding 7mm scale modeller. I visited him a few years ago at the firm's base in New Jersey to discuss distributing the Ixion 0n30 Coffee Pot in the USA during a business trip to New York. After spending time at Micro Mark's HQ, I visited Tom's home to see his truly stunning 7mm scale Somerset County Traction system. It is huge and almost all of the locos and rolling stock on the overhead electrified short-line are scratchbuilt. Attached is a short clip of the layout. My Cwm Bach layout is 15' x 2', but one can dream.

 

http://mrv.trains.com/layouts/layout-visits/2015/03/mrvp-layout-visit-tom-piccirillos-o-scale-somerset-county-traction-system

 

Chris

 

An interesting footnote Chris. Just one little quibble - surely Tom's truly stunning Somerset County Traction system is to quarter inch (1:48) rather than the curious and typically English 7mm scale?

 

1:48 - maths really easy - especially if drawings are dimensioned in imperial units

1:43.5 - that's just silly!

 

Chaz

Edited December 23, 2016 by chaz

[Donw]

An interesting footnote Chris. Just one little quibble - surely Tom's truly stunning Somerset County Traction system is to quarter inch (1:48) rather than the curious and typically English 7mm scale?

 

1:48 - maths really easy - especially if drawings are dimensioned in imperial units

1:43.5 - that's just silly!

 

Chaz

 

Using my 1:43.5 scale rule is even easier as I can just measure off the imperial units. Basically I work to full size its just the ruler that has shrunk. Somewhere I have an odd fashioned Architects ruler that includes a 1/4inch to I ft scale the modern ones are probably 1:50 scale 2cm to the metre?

 

Don

[sir douglas]

its really easy to model using a scale ruler, especially when you need the accuracy down to the inch you dont need to work it out. modelling suppliers like Squires and Hattons sell them ive had one for about a year now and its one of my most used tools

[Jeff Smith]

An interesting footnote Chris. Just one little quibble - surely Tom's truly stunning Somerset County Traction system is to quarter inch (1:48) rather than the curious and typically English 7mm scale?

 

1:48 - maths really easy - especially if drawings are dimensioned in imperial units

1:43.5 - that's just silly!

 

Chaz

In narrow gauge the two scales are very compatible as shown by this picture of the Banta Herbert's Crossing freight depot and some Peco based GVT wagons.....

 

[chaz]

Hmm. We might be missing the point, chaps. Yes, you can use a scale rule and then the actual scale ratio is dealt with but that doesn't alter the fact that on all sorts of occasions a quick mental calculation is going to be so much easier when you know that a quarter of an inch on a model represents a foot on the real thing.

 

However let's not fight about it.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

Today I have had one of those days when I seem to have spent a long time modelling but don't have much to show for it. I applied a second coat of paint on all the red-brown bits and fitted and glue some of the bay window parts. I had a gap when glueing and rather than sit there holding parts together I thought it might be worth trying two of the magnets...

 

 

...impressive! The magnetic force diminishes as the cube of the distance - double the distance and the force diminishes to an eighth - so being able to use their holding power at this separation - WOW!

 

Chaz

Edited December 23, 2016 by chaz

[Jeff Smith]

Banta warn in the instructions about water based paints causing warping. I of course ignored this as I only have water based paints... Yes it warped, but when I painted the inside it became flat again!

[chaz]

Banta warn in the instructions about water based paints causing warping. I of course ignored this as I only have water based paints... Yes it warped, but when I painted the inside it became flat again!

 

I am using Tamiya Acrylics. painting a couple of coats on one surface did cause the painted pieces to bow but as they dried they returned to flat. I wouldn't want to use enamels for a variety of reasons, not the least being protracted drying times.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

The last job I did this evening was to glue one of the sides in place.

 

 

Again I used the steel block and two magnets to hold the wall piece firmly and upright. The weight of the steel block also keeps the floor flat. With this method you have all the time you need to adust positions and make sure that there are no gaps in the joints. Once you are happy the glue can be run along most of the floor/wall joint and up where the two walls meet. The gap in glueing forced by the block preventing access could be filled in later, although I doubt if it will prove necessary.

 

Despite the care I have taken the bay windows look a bit disappointing. Maybe it will all come together more convincingly when the trim and the window frames are added. WTS.

 

Chaz

Edited December 23, 2016 by chaz

[chaz]

Chaz I have a feeling the success of the curved crossing will depend on the range of b to b of the stock. The wing rails of the other frog act as check rails. If all the stock is in a close range of B to B yo should be able to set it up so thay run through cleanly.

 

Don

 

I've been thinking about this Don. The flangeways on my Fast Tracks jig built turnouts have turned out commendably narrow. I think the B to B on the Bachmann stock must be pretty consistent as I have seen no bumping, lurching etc. In fact the stock runs through both the points and the crossings as if they were plain track.

 

Of course I could check all the stock with a gauge but I am inclined not to bother until it proves necessary - it would mean spending money on a gauge!  

 

Chaz

[chaz]

I didn't want to use the Sandy River colours that the real Strong depot was painted in (grey and pale green?) so I chose a couple of colours from the Tamiya acrylics range to try. I am very impressed with these paints - applying them directly to the wooden parts of the Banta kit they go on very smoothly, cover very well (although a second coat eliminates a slight patchiness) and dry very quickly.
I chose two colours - XF-57 buff and XF-64 red-brown - and when I tried these out in the colour test I mentioned above amazingly they match exactly the colour scheme that the FVRR used on its important buildings throughout its existence! What are the chances of that?

I wish a Merry Christmas to everyone who has read my stuff on this topic and on my Dock Green one, and especially those of you who said nice things about it. And I wish you all success with your modelling next year (on or off the catwalk!) and do have fun doing it. The world outside may be getting grimmer and more worrying but railway modelling can be a calm refuge.

ATB

Chaz

[Loconuts]

I chose the same Tamiya paints for my Ophir Depot as they were a close match to the RGS and D&RGW building colours in the later period.

 

Your Depot is coming on well, wish I could get some more modeling time in but I have been tied up with Christmas chores, rather have Christmas on my own with no visitors, "Bah Humbug"

 

John 

[chaz]

More progress today, sitting at the lounge table (special permission granted) listening to the King's College choir singing carols (on a CD), Sue on the sofa working on her latest felted collage piece. A perfect way to spend Christmas Eve.

 

I worked on the roof, which I think I will leave detachable until l have sorted out an interior. Amazing what you can do with those magnets...

 

 

This evening, after I had finished wrapping prezzies, I took the basic shell of the depot into the roof to try it in position.

 

 

it fits nicely, as I thought it would. it's good the way a building immediately gives a sense of scale that was lacking.

 

 

There's a lot to do to it yet but it's certainly coming on.

 

 

I am going to build a low, planked platform for the building to stand on. This may well have a curved ramp section leading to an extension to it which will sit alongside the team track (the gondola is standing on this in the photo above) with the deck level with a box car door. This slightly raised section would also give access to any head-end car on a west-bound passenger train.

 

Chaz

Edited December 24, 2016 by chaz

[Jeff Smith]

Coming along nicely Chaz, the Banta building kits are excellent. The branch line water tower, as on my Leesburg, is nice to build too and would look great on FVRR.

[chaz]

Coming along nicely Chaz, the Banta building kits are excellent. The branch line water tower, as on my Leesburg, is nice to build too and would look great on FVRR.

 

I think I have one! I plan to use it at Stoke's Ferry. The terminal station (if and when it is built) will need a big two-spout tank which will stand in the wye.

 

Chaz

[Donw]

I've been thinking about this Don. The flangeways on my Fast Tracks jig built turnouts have turned out commendably narrow. I think the B to B on the Bachmann stock must be pretty consistent as I have seen no bumping, lurching etc. In fact the stock runs through both the points and the crossings as if they were plain track.

 

Of course I could check all the stock with a gauge but I am inclined not to bother until it proves necessary - it would mean spending money on a gauge!  

 

Chaz

 

It is only the odd item possibly not using Bachmann wheels that is a potential problem. If all seems well it would be a waste effort checking all the stock. It also sounds like careful work on your track.

Don

[chaz]

.....It also sounds like careful work on your track.

Don

 

The Fast Tracks fixture (I would call it a jig) must take much of the credit. It supports all the rails in the crucial area around the frog (crossing!) and makes it easy to cut and form accurately and assembly much easier. But I was surprised (and delighted) when I started running test trains through the six switches in the formation for Stoke's Ferry and found running to be as smooth as on plain track. I only wish the 7mm Peco pointwork on Dock Green was anywhere near as good.

 

It's a pity that a pointwork making jig like the Fast Tracks one is not possible to make British chaired track - or is it?

[chaz]

A prezzy from Sue...

 

 

Nice wheels! It's a heavy freight wagon kit from Grizzly Mountain Engineering. I found this kit in an online catalogue, Sue emailed G.M.E. and they sent the kit from the U.S.. As it appeared from Santa's bag     this morning I took a break from the depot kit to do some work on this kit, which is very nice, if rather delicate.

 

One nice touch is that a detail overlay for the sides is arranged so that the details are attached to a strip - once they are glued in place the strip is cut off and discarded.

 

 

This is how far I got this evening...

 

 

The kit includes brass rod for the axles and it is suggested in the instructions that the wheels should be glued to these and consequently not rotate. I am going to see if a fairly simple mod' will make the wheels spin freely (not that it matters but I would like to see if it's possible). The other thing I would like to improve is the braking. There are two brake shoes included in the kit (they are in the front of the last picture) but there is no way of applying these modelled. IIRC there should be a large lever by the side of the seat which the driver worked to brake the wagon. I think there is a similar wagon in the film "Pale Rider" - some research needed!

 

Chaz

Edited December 25, 2016 by chaz

[2ManySpams]

Nice, very different to the vehicles on Dock Green.

[Donw]

The Fast Tracks fixture (I would call it a jig) must take much of the credit. It supports all the rails in the crucial area around the frog (crossing!) and makes it easy to cut and form accurately and assembly much easier. But I was surprised (and delighted) when I started running test trains through the six switches in the formation for Stoke's Ferry and found running to be as smooth as on plain track. I only wish the 7mm Peco pointwork on Dock Green was anywhere near as good.

 

It's a pity that a pointwork making jig like the Fast Tracks one is not possible to make British chaired track - or is it?

 

It is surprising what is feasible Fine Track in N and the 2mm Scale Association have both developed turnout bases which have holes for pegs on the base of the chairs to plug into together with a milled crossing it makes turnout construction much simpler. One 2mm Member has already shown how the base can be curved by judicious cutting to enable turnout to be built on a curve. I am sure that something along the lines of the fast track jig could be developed for 7mm. Our ties are a slightly different size but possible one could be adapted for flatbottom track work. For bullhead chaired track the jig might need to be thicker  (or have two layers) as the chairs lift the rail higher off the timbers. You would probably have to make cutouts for the chairs to fit into. 

Thinking about it it could work quite well pin the jig down cut and drop stained timbers into the jig slots drop the chairs into place slide the pre formed rails into place apply a bit of solvent to the chair base apply weights to hold for a minute or two. or those who wanted more strength brass chairs could be used at key places.

 

Don

[chaz]

It is surprising what is feasible Fine Track in N and the 2mm Scale Association have both developed turnout bases which have holes for pegs on the base of the chairs to plug into together with a milled crossing it makes turnout construction much simpler. One 2mm Member has already shown how the base can be curved by judicious cutting to enable turnout to be built on a curve. I am sure that something along the lines of the fast track jig could be developed for 7mm. Our ties are a slightly different size but possible one could be adapted for flatbottom track work. For bullhead chaired track the jig might need to be thicker  (or have two layers) as the chairs lift the rail higher off the timbers. You would probably have to make cutouts for the chairs to fit into. 

Thinking about it it could work quite well pin the jig down cut and drop stained timbers into the jig slots drop the chairs into place slide the pre formed rails into place apply a bit of solvent to the chair base apply weights to hold for a minute or two. or those who wanted more strength brass chairs could be used at key places.

 

Don

 

Interesting. I should add that one of the most useful parts of the Fast Track system is the jig for holding rail whilst filing up frog rails and point rails. Something similar for code 124 rail would go a long to making hand-made track  easier.

[chaz]

Nice, very different to the vehicles on Dock Green.

 

Yes indeed. I also have a plastic kit for a model T - it's actually an ambulance but will be built as a delivery van.

[Loconuts]

Chaz

 

Did Sue get you the team of six mules to haul the cart? Making the wheels go round should be very easy as the wheels had a conical shaped hub on the outside, if you make some and glue/solder them to the axle leaving the wheels free to rotate.

 

Visitors have gone leaving a day and a half of Depot building time before we trek of to Essex for a few days.

 

John 

[chaz]

Chaz

 

Did Sue get you the team of six mules to haul the cart? Making the wheels go round should be very easy as the wheels had a conical shaped hub on the outside, if you make some and glue/solder them to the axle leaving the wheels free to rotate.

 

Visitors have gone leaving a day and a half of Depot building time before we trek of to Essex for a few days.

 

John 

 

No. I didn't want mules or horses which, like many figures, I don't think are very convincing. No, my wagon will be left parked by the team track, the team and teamster are down at the livery stables....

 

Chaz