RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 12, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2014 I'm thinking 1368 as a cabriolet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Chris If you anneal the top of the cabsides you will make it easier to form the curves. Another thing which might help would be to temporarily solder some scrap etch over the cab door openings to prevent them being distorted when you form the curves at the top. I didn't feel the need to do that on 1367 but I had more confidence in my abilities than you seem to have in yours. And that's not a criticism-been there, done that! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 12, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2014 Regarding annealing NS in a domestic environment, can folk advise on how best this is done please? We do have a gas hob if that helps... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 12, 2014 Feed Damian a few curries ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Chris Personally, I use a small blowtorch in the workshop but there's no reason why you can't use the gas hob. No mess is created in the process, just hold the part in the flame (with a pair of pliers) until it glows a dull red colour, you would only need to anneal the part of the cabside which will be curved. Some people would advise quenching the part in cold water, others would advise natural cooling. I sit on the fence..... Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 12, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2014 Feed Damian a few curries ? Also works if you need to strip wallpaper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 12, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2014 Chris Personally, I use a small blowtorch in the workshop but there's no reason why you can't use the gas hob. No mess is created in the process, just hold the part in the flame (with a pair of pliers) until it glows a dull red colour, you would only need to anneal the part of the cabside which will be curved. Some people would advise quenching the part in cold water, others would advise natural cooling. I sit on the fence..... Jeff Whilst Sat on the fence do you have said part in a pot of water or are you just watching it cool nicely? Don't drop said hot part on the fence as it may fire up the creosote! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Chris I asked for that one! Usually, I just let the part cool naturally but I have been known to quench it, I can't tell any difference but doubtless an engineer or a metallurgist would tell you that one is right and one is wrong. And they might not even agree with each other......... Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hey Spams. Excellent work. I think you should rename the thread "shaking off your Demon's" Keep it up..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 With these roll over rooves I make the centre section clip in, two tags one side and a little clip the other side. With careful positioning of the rain strips the joins are hidden. That's roughly what I did on the 8750 - a strip of etch waste either side which clipped under the shoulders. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted August 12, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2014 Annealing will cause the surface to oxidise, so after cooling (by either method!), clean up with a glass fibre brush. Be careful as the material is soft, which was the object of annealing in the first place. Oxidised metal will not solder at all well. I tend to bend after annealing and then clean as the metal may be just a tad harder, a tad may be more or less than a smidgin depending on the denomination of the tad. ss Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I tend to bend after annealing and then clean as the metal may be just a tad harder, a tad may be more or less than a smidgin depending on the denomination of the tad. ss I think a tad is little bit bigger than a scintilla, but smaller than a jot or iota. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
avonside1563 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Copper and Brass can be annealed by quenching or allowing to cool naturally, steel must be allowed to cool naturally and not quenched as quenching will cause hardening of the steel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
avonside1563 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 That's why I have two micrometers (metric & imperial) and a vernier. Measuring TADS can be critical! Interestingly I have two adjustable spanners, one for metric work and one for imperial. I sometimes find I need a special b*st*rd one for those really awkwardly rounded nuts! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 The bigger the adjustable spanner the bigger the nuts are. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 Got home tonight to the delights of a parcel from Mike at Agenoria. Good stuff. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted August 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 No excuses now, not to have a self propelled chassis up and running in short order. I wish you all the best in your enedeavour's SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2014 Got home tonight to the delights of a parcel from Mike at Agenoria. Good stuff. rps20140813_195706.jpg You're easily pleased. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 No excuses now, not to have a self propelled chassis up and running in short order. I wish you all the best in your enedeavour's SS My thoughts exactly, so that's what I did... 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2014 Very satisfying Chris.I can't wait to see it slow shunting on Pencarrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 You're easily pleased. Good beer, a nice pie and some modelling odds and sods and I'm happy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 Very satisfying Chris.I can't wait to see it slow shunting on Pencarrow. Everything goes round without catching. It goes fast and slow. Makes a hell of a racket in forwards gear. So all good... ...but the static running in shows there's too much slop in the compensation beams pivots. Some work to do to sort that out. On the plus side I've a chassis that works and runs on track. Big smilies. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Chris Don't worry about the compensation if there's no weight on the axles - if you run it on a rolling road and it's unhappy and sloppy, that's another issue, but unloaded, then the compensated axles will kick, it is to be expected. Any chance you can get the chassis on a test track? An hour of that, going both ways, it'll be sweet as a chocolate without the nut! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2014 Chris Don't worry about the compensation if there's no weight on the axles - if you run it on a rolling road and it's unhappy and sloppy, that's another issue, but unloaded, then the compensated axles will kick, it is to be expected. Any chance you can get the chassis on a test track? An hour of that, going both ways, it'll be sweet as a chocolate without the nut! Best Simon Thanks for the advice Simon. The best I can do for a test track at the moment is in the photo below. Not that extensive! PS I like nuts* in chocolate. ;-p (*No Stubby, not my nuts) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) Until you get the pickups sorted, can you rig up a wagon, coupled to the loco, with temporary wheel wipers to pass current to the motor ? Edited August 14, 2014 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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