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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge


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Well done Chris!! A significant milestone achieved and new skills learnt. Pickups next? I then leave the brake gear and other frame gubbins until the body is finished. Those thin bits of metal are easily bent when you keep offering the chassis up to the body. Well they are on my workbench :-( .

Here we go chalk and cheese. I like to get the frames finished, so I can paint them once I know the two fit together, and start the re assembly process whilst the body is being painted.

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I'd go for pickups next

Then brakes & chassis gubbins

Then paint chassis

 

Function before appearance IMO

 

Best

Simon

I'd go for pickups next

Then brakes & chassis gubbins

Then paint chassis

 

Function before appearance IMO

 

Best

Simon

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I'd go for pickups next

Then brakes & chassis gubbins

Then paint chassis

Function before appearance IMO

Best

SimonI'd go for pickups next

Then brakes & chassis gubbins

Then paint chassis

Function before appearance IMO

Best

Simon

Simon

 

You appear to have aquired an echo.

 

SS

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Until you get the pickups sorted, can you rig up a wagon, coupled to the loco, with temporary wheel wipers to pass current to the motor ?

I'm trying to avoid temporary measures Stu, I don't have the time for doing things twice. Saying that, I'll be taking the chassis to prices yet again tonight to look at improving those compensation beams fixings.

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Looking great Chris!

Achieved without Damian's help!

 

It is very satisfying getting the wheels rolling under power.

I'd want to get the chassis more or less finished before moving onto the body. All the fiddly / moving bits are on the chassis and getting these running sweetly are critical, as Paul suggested earlier in the thread.

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Looking great Chris!

Achieved without Damian's help!

 

It is very satisfying getting the wheels rolling under power.

I'd want to get the chassis more or less finished before moving onto the body. All the fiddly / moving bits are on the chassis and getting these running sweetly are critical, as Paul suggested earlier in the thread.

Help?

 

You've got it all wrong.

 

I've never been any help...

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If it's any consolation Chris, we have all been there and it's just part of the learning curve.

 

The one thing I think you will find is 7mm is a lot easier to work with and is much less fiddly than 4mm.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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My original idea to improve the beam pivots was to find a bit of brass tube that fitted snugly over the screw and to use that as a sleeve between the screw and the beam. I've a small collection of K&S sections but none the right size.

 

What I did find though was a pack of 4mm loco bearings for a 1/8th axle, some 1/8th tube, another tube that fitted inside that and a rod section that fitted inside the smallest tube. Ideas flowed.

 

The screw fixings were removed from the frames, the solder cleaned up and the frame holes reamed slightly to take the small bearing. The collar of the bearing fitted into the recess etched into the outside of the frames.

 

Next the pivot holes in the compensation beams were reamed to take the medium tube. The opportunity was taken to solder some scrap NS over the pivots hole and the cut outs in the top of the beam. I pre-drilled a hole in the scrap to take the medium tube before fixing it to the beam. Lengths of medium tube were soldered into the beam holes - flush with the side facing the frames.

 

 

Short sections of the large tube were soldered into the bearings, followed by a short length of the medium tube to reduce their internal diameter to that of the rod.

 

The whole lot was then loosely fitted together using the rod and a compression spring used to keep the beams tight to the frames.

 

post-6675-0-04930400-1408089323_thumb.jpg

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Chris

 

To follow Peter's sage advice, put the coupling rod bushes on back-to-front, so you can slip the rods on and off easily. It will help that you can treat the loco alternatively as an 0-4-2 and a 2-4-0 as your rods are jointed on the centre pin.

 

Don't run it under power! Loosen the gear securing screw, and roll it. It may help if you pull it by means of a long, soft elastic band - which will stretch if the chassis goes tight. Hopefully it will then be easy to identify the tight spot.

 

My guess is that the front four will be fine, and the tightness will be caused by a minor length mismatch between your new compensation beam pivot and your rear axle. If so, I would be inclined to try to re-adjust your new pivot, rather than loosen the coupling rod fit to its bushes, as doing the latter will make the chassis sloppy - the rear axle is driven and will turn before the other wheels, which is exactly how a real loco doesn't look!

 

HTH

Simon

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Thanks folks, as an unpowered unit it rolls along fine. The tight spot only appears when powering the rear axle.

 

It runs fine as a 2-4-0 under power. The issue appears to be the front axle. Further investigations tonight. Should be easier to sort now the beam pivot points don't wander around so much!

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Found the tight spot...it's the gearbox. The main cog isn't quite round.

 

Found this by noting that the tight spot was always when the cog grub screw was next to the worm, no matter how the wheels are quartered.

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