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Hornby Merchant Navy announced (formerly Facebook leak)


miles73128
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I have that very book in front of me now! I was researching the tenders allocated just yesterday, with a view to naming my kit-built MN (Golden Arrow Productions body on Hornby MN chassis with WC/BoB cylinders). 

 

There is also a bit of useful information on tenders in The Book of the West Country and Battle of Britain Pacifics: a British Railways Illustrated Special (Richard Derry, 2002, Irwell Press Ltd), with reference to which light pacific tenders were temporarily behind which Merchant Navy in the early years.

I think it was the early months of the locos in question, rather than early years.

 

John

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attachicon.gifP1310815.JPGMy Clan Line arrived this week, what a stunning model. Just when you think RTR can't get any better, it does !.

Good pic in outdoor light, Clan Line looks really good. I like the "Welcome to the Strong country" beer advert,  that really brings back memories of journeys long ago.  When we spotted "you're leaving the strong country" signs, (think it was a Hampshire brewery)  it meant we were really on our way west....

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So I've got a dog then?

 

The lining is Not OK. It should be orange and black not bleached straw and black.

 

The front bogie has no substance to it. Almost no contact with the rails. Lifts off and derails at every point and occasionally just at random.

Happy to accept it doesn't like tight curves but mine doesn't like straight lines.

I'll try some weight on it later.

 

Reviewers not done their jobs with this one. "Looks pretty" is not enough.

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So I've got a dog then?

 

The lining is Not OK. It should be orange and black not bleached straw and black.

 

The front bogie has no substance to it. Almost no contact with the rails. Lifts off and derails at every point and occasionally just at random.

Happy to accept it doesn't like tight curves but mine doesn't like straight lines.

I'll try some weight on it later.

 

Reviewers not done their jobs with this one. "Looks pretty" is not enough.

My 'Royal Mail' ran well on track with a minimum radius of 2' 6" but would not go through Hornby 2nd radius point and adjoining curve. I have now received 'Clan Line' but will not get an opportunity to test it until next week. I had a similar problem with the front bogie of a Hornby 'Princess'. The back to back distance on the front bogie was wrong and since I corrected it the model runs well.

 

I had not noticed the colour of the orange lining on 'Clan Line' before. It matches the Pressfix lining I used on my model of 34105 'Swanage'. The orange lining on my Hornby rebuilt Merchant Navy Pacifics looks too red now. I wonder which is correct. Both are a lot better than the single orange lining on my Tri-ang Hornby Britannia, Lord of the Isles and Tri-ang Princess but the Merchant Navy Pacifics are a bit more expensive

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So I've got a dog then?

 

The lining is Not OK. It should be orange and black not bleached straw and black.

 

The front bogie has no substance to it. Almost no contact with the rails. Lifts off and derails at every point and occasionally just at random.

Happy to accept it doesn't like tight curves but mine doesn't like straight lines.

I'll try some weight on it later.

 

Reviewers not done their jobs with this one. "Looks pretty" is not enough.

 

Sounds like you ought to send yours back and get a refund.

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Cannot wait to get my BR one of these, had a BR session last night, but suffered issues with all my active light BR Bullied pacifics! (Bude is out for DCC conversion, Winston Churchill is out for deflector repair, so off with Eustace M, but that developed a lump in the running of one centre driver and needs inspection, left with Exeter run ok but then a tender ladder fell off -- so I dragged out a 25 year Lord Beeverbrook, god I had forgotten how bad this model's running was, next out the Duke of Gloucester, fine until the tender coupling broke off, finally had the train pulled by a robust 30 year William Shakespere which runs really well for a tender drive).

 

With hindsight I should have stayed in southern colours! Anyway, for a front bogie to lift off on straights, the track must peak badly at certain joins. Was it at certain rail joints?

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So I've got a dog then?

 

The lining is Not OK. It should be orange and black not bleached straw and black.

 

The front bogie has no substance to it. Almost no contact with the rails. Lifts off and derails at every point and occasionally just at random.

Happy to accept it doesn't like tight curves but mine doesn't like straight lines.

I'll try some weight on it later.

 

Reviewers not done their jobs with this one. "Looks pretty" is not enough.

If you read my post 1507 you will hopefully note that I comment favourably on both performance and looks. Fortunately my 35028 behaves impeccably through all point work (code 100) ,over awkward baseboard joins and around 36 " curves.In no way would I attach the title "review" to the post btw or that I was doing a job. I appreciate you are feeling a little sore because yours has not lived up to expectation.

Perhaps you should do as others have advised and return it.

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Good pic in outdoor light, Clan Line looks really good. I like the "Welcome to the Strong country" beer advert,  that really brings back memories of journeys long ago.  When we spotted "you're leaving the strong country" signs, (think it was a Hampshire brewery)  it meant we were really on our way west....

I think it was in Romsey--maybe still is under some other name? I remember the caption---Strong and Co. of Romsey

Ed

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Got my Clan Line today and an excellent model it is, but not quite perfect!  A few little niggles -

 

1. The loco seemed to be stuck fast in the packaging. Having extracted it a piece of polystyrene was stuck to the edge of the cab roof and quite sticky. Removing it has left a white residue which will need to be carefully removed.

 

2. The tender mandrel that normally pings off when you remove the body is nicely stuck in place, but about a mm too low meaning the tender body would not sit down straight until I trimmed it. 

 

3. Last but not least - the NEM coupling pocket is way too low, again! Even testing with the tension lock in place it was hitting the point rails when running in reverse. So looks like another manufactured Kadee is going to have to be made. 

 

Apart from these, very pleased indeed! 

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Sideways movement of the front bogie is very poorly engineered, rough and sticks.

They have also tried to save material so the bogie is not bulky and heavy enough to sit on the rails properly.

 

My current suspicion is the wide (front to back distance) cylinder casting restricts the bogie turning movement and with such a light bogie the moment a wheel flange touches the cylinder block it lifts. Doesn't explain why it occasionally derails on straights though. Looking for my back-to-back gauge.

 

As for the lining, come on, show me any other Hornby Bulleid with lining that colour! You all have BOBs WCs to place alongside.

OK not a big deal. Even I can put new lining on in nice straight lines......  Just sad, that's all.

 

After waiting so long for this I'll give it some more time tomorrow

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So I've got a dog then?

 

The lining is Not OK. It should be orange and black not bleached straw and black.

 

The front bogie has no substance to it. Almost no contact with the rails. Lifts off and derails at every point and occasionally just at random.

Happy to accept it doesn't like tight curves but mine doesn't like straight lines.

I'll try some weight on it later.

 

Reviewers not done their jobs with this one. "Looks pretty" is not enough.

Agree that my first two MNs were initially disappointing performers. I  just had to persist with 21 C1 to get it to run. But I think I am getting there. The cure has been:

1. Remove accoutrements adjacent to front bogies (this seems to be the norm in photos shown in this thread, and on Youtube).

2. Adjust b2bs of the front bogies which were widely  different.

3. Ensure points/ guard rail areas (ie where derailments occurred) are ABSOLUTELY level.

4. Dont overload the loco (it alters the locos centre of gravity?)

5. Dont run baggage wagons immediately behind the loco. These are notoriously poor runners anyway and only serve to push the loco off course on bends and cause derailments. Run these wagons at the back of the train and they are OK.

I agree that these rather expensive locos are not as well produced as perhaps they might have been. I hope to improve the running of my three further with a little ballast at the front of the loco. But these locos are going to be a good addition to my SR themed layout.

Sorry but I cant get apoplectic to the point of 'losing it' about minor colour issues. If I did there are people who will respray to instruction?

All I am waiting for now is my class 71s from DJ Models - I have the feeling that they WILL be good runners from the word go. Or my faith will be totally shattered.

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Agree that my first two MNs were initially disappointing performers. I  just had to persist with 21 C1 to get it to run. But I think I am getting there. The cure has been:

1. Remove accoutrements adjacent to front bogies (this seems to be the norm in photos shown in this thread, and on Youtube).

2. Adjust b2bs of the front bogies which were widely  different.

3. Ensure points/ guard rail areas (ie where derailments occurred) are ABSOLUTELY level.

4. Dont overload the loco (it alters the locos centre of gravity?)

5. Dont run baggage wagons immediately behind the loco. These are notoriously poor runners anyway and only serve to push the loco off course on bends and cause derailments. Run these wagons at the back of the train and they are OK.

I agree that these rather expensive locos are not as well produced as perhaps they might have been. I hope to improve the running of my three further with a little ballast at the front of the loco. But these locos are going to be a good addition to my SR themed layout.

Sorry but I cant get apoplectic to the point of 'losing it' about minor colour issues. If I did there are people who will respray to instruction?

All I am waiting for now is my class 71s from DJ Models - I have the feeling that they WILL be good runners from the word go. Or my faith will be totally shattered.

 

Not just my MN then. Thanks for your comments.

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Just goes to show how individual models can vary. See my review in the upcoming June Model Rail. Not an official review sample - bought over the counter from Trains4U. From memory, I think the quote was "it romped round my layout with 16 coaches in tow". There were no derailments of the loco during my tests. The bogie performed just fine and I reckon it was one of the best review test runs of recent months. Curiously, it was not quite so happy on the sharper curves and gradients of the Model Rail test track, which is laid with Setrack and Hornby points. It is a long unsprung wheelbase so I guess it will be sensitive to undulations in the railhead. (CJL)

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Just goes to show how individual models can vary. See my review in the upcoming June Model Rail. Not an official review sample - bought over the counter from Trains4U. From memory, I think the quote was "it romped round my layout with 16 coaches in tow". There were no derailments of the loco during my tests. The bogie performed just fine and I reckon it was one of the best review test runs of recent months. Curiously, it was not quite so happy on the sharper curves and gradients of the Model Rail test track, which is laid with Setrack and Hornby points. It is a long unsprung wheelbase so I guess it will be sensitive to undulations in the railhead. (CJL)

 

Thankfully reassuring as I await the arrival of mine, cheers

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Forester, firstly the front bogie is the same as used on the modified (rebuilt) Bulleid Light Pacific's and the problem is one that I have encountered many times before.

 

The issue isn't the wheel back to backs or the lightness of it, the problem is the mounting bracket - the bracket is either not fitted correctly (i.e. not screwed down true) or the bracket isn't square.

 

Either way the bogie has to be removed and refitted.

 

Secondly the previous two Bulleid Light Pacific's (Camelford and 603 Squadron) have had the darker green and lighter (or finer) orange lining.

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Forester, firstly the front bogie is the same as used on the modified (rebuilt) Bulleid Light Pacific's and the problem is one that I have encountered many times before.

 

The issue isn't the wheel back to backs or the lightness of it, the problem is the mounting bracket - the bracket is either not fitted correctly (i.e. not screwed down true) or the bracket isn't square.

 

Either way the bogie has to be removed and refitted.

 

Secondly the previous two Bulleid Light Pacific's (Camelford and 603 Squadron) have had the darker green and lighter (or finer) orange lining.

 

Thanks. I'll try refitting the bracket.

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Ran my Clan Line today with 4 coach load for approx 1 hour, no problems at all, on the front bogie  problem ,my 603 Squadron has had about 6 hours of running, [no problems noted]  I stored the loco loose on a shelf for a week and when I came to run it again the front bogie fell off, the holding screw had come off in the previous session nestling in between the rails .So maybe as stated above by "Toboldygo" there could well be a loose screw problem with some of the Clan Lines.

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Ran my Clan Line today with 4 coach load for approx 1 hour, no problems at all, on the front bogie  problem ,my 603 Squadron has had about 6 hours of running, [no problems noted]  I stored the loco loose on a shelf for a week and when I came to run it again the front bogie fell off, the holding screw had come off in the previous session nestling in between the rails .So maybe as stated above by "Toboldygo" there could well be a loose screw problem with some of the Clan Lines.

 

Basically it's the hole in the bracket being an interference fit on the self-tapping screw trying to secure it to the locomotive chassis - so you think it's fully home an it's not.

 

It's worth opening up the hole in the bracket slightly, to ensure the bracket secures properly to the chassis.

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Got my Clan Line today and an excellent model it is, but not quite perfect!  A few little niggles -

 

1. The loco seemed to be stuck fast in the packaging. Having extracted it a piece of polystyrene was stuck to the edge of the cab roof and quite sticky. Removing it has left a white residue which will need to be carefully removed.

 

2. The tender mandrel that normally pings off when you remove the body is nicely stuck in place, but about a mm too low meaning the tender body would not sit down straight until I trimmed it. 

 

3. Last but not least - the NEM coupling pocket is way too low, again! Even testing with the tension lock in place it was hitting the point rails when running in reverse. So looks like another manufactured Kadee is going to have to be made. 

 

Apart from these, very pleased indeed! 

 

Upon opening up my clan line I had the same problem with the packaging. In my case the pad that is meant for protection had become folded and the sticky side had become stuck to the model itself. I was VERY careful trying to get it off without leaving any residue plus until I did the rest of the model was left suspended from the packaging. 

 

A bit of a hold your breath moment but once out it was smooth running and she is a beauty.  

 

Pete 

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