N15class

Hi

There was a raised edgearound the front bronze bush on the motor, so the washer I was using was just acting as a brake.

It is in the text above, but the number of times I read things an miss bits seems to be getting more regular.

As you can see in the last shot The body is not yet heavy enough to compress the springs.

It has a real west coast of Wales feel to it.

They look better each up date. I presume they are only braked one side

The tank curves were not too bad. As they are short I could do them in my vee block, with the right sized bar as a former, but would of been easier if they had not half etch the back where the curve is.

I would love to know how youdo them.

It always surprises me how many ways we all find to paint models. Very interesting so far, I wait to read the next installment.

They look good, I like the variation in the batter plates on the end. I guess they run on 18mm gauge but to what scale?

I do too. The trouble here is the import duty a small lathe like the Emco one bought here is welll over a £1000. So it is down to getting my tools etc from England in baggage when we or friends family travel. so it a bit slow getiing everything over. Good thing is there is no duty on books.

I had thought of that, but I as I was doing it by hand with the dremmel it was difficult to set the depth. If I could of mounted them in the piller drill I would of done.

Hi Peter,Would you mind doing a how to do it on the self contained buffers?Apologies if have asked this before but how did you make the copper ring or is it bought in?

Hi

I will do that. I am in the process of doing the others so will get some pictures before I to far. I am doing the 3 slightly differently, but the result is the same.

I think I replied about the copper ring, but it is just a length of 1mm electric wire wrapped around the boiler, then soldered to the back of the smoke box. It is there to represent the round joint between the 2 parts, it is not quite rightwhen the real thing is looked at but I think is passable. It also means I canhave a seperate body. Makes painting and lining a lot easier.

I like the grass on the river bank. Is the use of the hanging basket liner easy. The only liner I can remember seeing was made from sponge. But yours must be fibre? Do you need to die it or anything.

Looking really good.I hope when I get started I can get close to your modelling.

They look impressive, I am quite clad I model 1-43.5 they look a little small. The hoods look the part the weathering is just about right.

Hi Paul

That is very interesting I would love to see a copy. I missed out none of my family ever worked on the railways. I am not sure if ABS do a saddle tank Buffalo. I was fortunate I got a basic set of etchings for the pannier one just before John Berry passed away.

Peter

It is begining to take shape. I do like this useing pink board as base board, as it is strong and light. I do not think it is available here in Brazil so I am going to need to look for something else.

looks good, you seem to be getting a good atmosphere, I need to get a layout and play trains sometimes.

Hi

The trip here is very good. I unfortunatly will not be coming home with a compressor. I found one for about £200 but the same thing in UK is about £60 so even with carriage and our 60 percent import duty is still cheaper.

As for getting the photos I missed the chance as we came back a different way. I did get a few pictures of the preserved line in SP itself. It must be really hard for these guys, as it is difficult in the UK to get the finance and help. Here there is very little sense of history and the drive for modern is imense.

I have just had a good read of this, it is a very good model. Is it complete yet or is it still in the paint shop?

I made it and the back plate of the smokebox. On the A1 there is a round edge to the back of the smokebox, and it also helps to locate the boiler saves trying to screw it together. It is just a piece of copper wire from 1mm cable. I am hoping it will look right when painted. When I get back I will post a photo of the 2 bits together.

I only ever used 1/8" bar with the ends turned down to take the coupling rods, I think this method you use is far better. I have a jig in o gauge that does a very similar thing.

I had used Comet chassis they worked well. Never did a branchlines one. think I did a couple of coaches though.

I think I will have to photograph all the bits I make, the enlargements let you see what a mess you have made and what solder needs cleaning up.

I also think this is more like building a large oo loco than an o gauge one. It feels about half the size of the 1076.

Hi I like the way you set out the chassis for soldering together does it work with sprung and compensated chassis ?

I had a set of milled rods for this but they were not hinged. So I used the kit ones, I would of prefered a 3 layer etch. But as I have beefed up the week part I think they will be fine. Yes delivery to here is about 28 days but you have to watch the 60 percent import duty. Most things have to come in suitcases or posted by the family.

Mine were from Keykits.

The layout looks good.

I think you are doing a cracking job. I see health and saftey have been at work in the real shed. Dare anyone to be stupid enough not to see the large hole and fall in it.

There are one or two advantages of living here, but being a model maker is not one. I think I will have to do a workshop post when I have 1/2 an hour.