Quarryscapes

*cough* This is from my secret stash and not really supposed for public viewing, but since the boss is sending out internal eyes only drawings pointing out bugs for quotes I guess it's fair... Brand new Mk1 with (what will be) inbuilt audio. This is the prototype console which went with the ugly DIN cage, it will eventually me bracket mounted behind the console for a sleek modern finish. It's also getting electric parking brake. The Mk2 is getting Blutooth only completely hidden stereo since there isn't room in the console for head unit and gauges.

To use emboss you need to make sure that your beading sketch for the tumblehome part uses the actual arc segment circumference rather than the vertical distance, otherwise it won't work properly, this is a straight project of the side with a bead all round. But use the correct length and it will be fine - use the inspect command to get the length of the arc et voila!

Extrude won't work because it will, as you can see, create a flat face. To get it to do what you want to do you need to split the beading at the same place where the tumblehome radius starts and do two extrudes, one on the flat bit and the other on the curved. You can't use 2 faces on differing planes for an extrude to or from an object. better extruding to an object rather than Intersect is working correctly as well - a Boolean intersect deletes anything that isn't in the overlap zone between two solids. What you could do is copy and paste the body where it is, and intersect the beading with the copy and then combine the resultant beading with the original un beaded body. You could also try the emboss command which ought to work well enough for this.

In this livery on Cambrian duty I have photos of 7802 with 84E, 6F and 89C shed plates

Whichever shed plate it gets, I'm just glad you've not gone for the ridiculous white paint that it got tarted up with in the 60s.

There's a couple of good GW era shots available - one is Cambrain Railways Album 2 (C.C. Green) and the other in Railway Through Talerddig (Gwyn Briwnant Jones). I can't off hand recall a Cambrian era photo

Croess Newydd was a GWR shed, it was never anything to do with the Cambrian. The Cambrian serviced it's locos at the GCR shed, Rhosddu which was connected via the joint Cambrian/GCR Wrexham Central station, then from 1907 in it's own shed, which later went to Aberaeron. Croes Newydd only got a nose in to Cambrian territory after the grouping when the old Dolgellau boundary between Cambrian and GWR was broken, and the section from there on to Barmouth via Barmouth Junction was logically added on. It was never proper Cambrian. (Wolverhampton Division, not Central Wales)

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but since it wasn't actually addressed... The GPV is nothing whatsoever to do with the GWR or the F&B. It was originally on a wooden underframe, which rotted away and the body, being just the right size, was transferred over to a GWR chassis. It is shown (although not especially clearly) in 1932 and 1949 photos od Duffws on its old chassis. It also appears in much more recent photos of Maenofferen quarry on the GWR chassis (which incidentally is the wrong way round).

Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-0, But it was my fault after an ill fated attempt at converting to EM gauge. I made such a hash of it I gave up and bought a complete new chassis.

Unsolder them. They must be removed if you want to completely separate the components, yes.

Use code JANSAVINGS22 for 10% off with selected sellers - posting here only because amongst the selected sellers is Rails of Sheffield. Minimum spend £20, max discount £50 and ends on 20th Jan.

It's been done - check out Ty Morau in either January or December 1994 Railway Modeller. 009 layout, circular, rotates with the train. It was split into 3 zones depicting different seasons.

Hmmm. I really want a Hinton Manor for sentimental reasons, but I would prefer it was in BR Black. If the GWR livery was to get an OSW shed code however it might swing me...

20 minutes wasted stuck here this morning. Residents on the right insist on parking outside their homes, have done for decades. It's a narrow street and they block it to the point you can just squeeze a van down the remaining width, and it's impossible to see what's coming the other way if you're travelling the opposite way leading to frequent log jams. Some 25 years ago a car park was built, just visible on the extreme right but they don't use it, still parking on the street (they claim it's traffic calming, and if they didn't people would just speed down through the village). Caravan transport escort driver had to knock everyone up and get them to move their cars as there was no wat that was getting past. https://www.google.com/maps/@52.895796,-4.4530126,3a,75y,260.56h,69.38t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sMAJdRWtVgh921OCKpS5g1w!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

To be honest I think the answer to the OP is no. There are plenty of panniers out there already and more on the way. It's long overdue time for a saddle tank or a 517.

Sorry to offend you all, but Y Bermo is what we actually call it in Welsh. I had planned to take a lot more pics of the works this year since it's literally on the doorstep, but I've been too busy. These are from September!

One thing - will the parting line along the boiler be addressed before production?

The ones by me are not self closing

Don't send Mesh, send a solid. STEP will do it.

Anybody in the know cast some light on brakes for me? I'm modelling DIDO on the Shropshire & Montgomeryshire, an A1 with mods. I need to swap the wood brake blocks to metal ones - however DCC supplies have 2 listings for each type, with no photos and no parts diagram available to identify the correct ones. Options available are: I guess I need either one of these or is it both? Brake Assembly Kit A1X Metal Brake Block – O Gauge Terrier £7.20 Inc. Vat Terrier O Brake Assembly Set A1X £10.00 Inc. Vat Wooden ones as well are a mystery: Brake Assembly Kit A1 Wooden Brake Block – O Gauge Terrier £7.20 Inc. Vat Terrier O Brake Assembly Wood Set A1 £10.00 Inc. Vat Would love to know what the difference is!

I had to let the garage do my DPF in the end (Same one as yours if you remember). The official Volvo service instructions are to undo the engine mount and swing the engine back to get clearance to get it out. (Since I have no hoist this was out fo the question)It wasn't even getting the DPF out that needed clearance, you can't get the heatshield off it in situ to get at the bolts to take it out! A Top/Bottom split to the cover would have been far better than the stupid front/back split it actually has, it would actually come out from the bottom easily if you could get the sodding covers off it!

It always used to be the case that a seller could perfectly acceptably to ebay ask for more money for shipping if they found it was going to cost more than they had originally estimated. I'm glad this is now frowned upon.

By popular demand I have made my gap filling pieces available through my website. https://shop.coastlinemodels.co.uk/product/4fr001-bogie-gap-filler-for-Bachmann-double-fairlie-009/

The home feature is dictated by an optical sensor telling the platform to stop moving down once it reaches a certain point. With just the regular build plate this stops above the screen, but with the extra thickness the plate stopped in the same place will actually put the build surface lower than the top of the screen, hence a bit of mechanical conflict. On a Photon I think you need to put a spacer below the sensor as the bed levelling mechanism doesn't give enough room. On a Mono, you simply loosen the 4 levelling screws and the build plate clamp screw and you have plenty of travel to accomplish levelling. (with Sovol mag plates at least).

It was not there during the time when it was fitted with square sandpots.