Quarryscapes

Leave used IPA to settle for a week or so, THEN put it in the sun. That way you don't get a bottle full of useless white slime. I leave mine settling for ages on a windowsill, then pour it out through a coffee filter to trap any bits. The resin is 99.9% now stuck to the bottom of the bottle and what comes out is perfectly usable, if stained a little yellow, IPA. I've been recycling mine this way for the past year, occasionally topping up with new to replace that lost to evaporation, cleanup and spillages.

Haven't trotted these out in a while. Some haven't had the grey painted, I just left it in the plastic colour, varnished over after transfers. Not 100% accurate, I will be striving to do better in 7mm scale.

Daft question possibly, is there a list of shed plates on these models anywhere? All the pics I've seen are too small to make it out.

Get a multimeter out and see which terminal is connected to the loco pickups, then solder the two wires from the motor to that. I suspect it'll be those marked TL and TR.

Fusion360 is pretty comprehensive, however it is most definitely not bug and hassle free.

Are you DCC? Unless they've changed things recently the DCC decoder is in the smokebox, the weight in the locomotive boiler having been cut away to make room vs the earlier DC only models. If you're not DCC then the obvious answer is to remove the decoder gubbins and fill up the space with weight. In fact swapping out the existing mazak casting for a a lead replacement would be a good start regardless of control method.

15mm socket on the end of a long extension does the job on moving the tensioner, just done mine. Need to get it off again though as the squeak was not the belt (which looked much like yours!) but seems to be the bearing itself squeaking.

Indeed, and they're likely to get more expensive again soon. The murmuring in the office was that the Electric version would cost less as the motor and battery package costs less than the Engine and Gearbox options we currently have and requires less peripheral stuff too (no fuel and oil tanks, associated lines etc). According to the company who do the conversion, retrofitting an existing car there is no additional outlay to convert to electric. However, in our case (MST Cars/Motorsport-Tools.com) as the new Mk1s are IVA testes to gain a contemporary registration mark, the battery package needs a kind of type approval, in which they are tested destructively at a specialist facility at a coast of £6k. Amongst the cars in the workshop for conversion was a Ferrari Testarossa, and following conversion it will be both lighter and faster than the original ever was.

Possible electric Escort Mk1 replicas on the way....

Ghosting is normal and occurs after just about every print, you just don't see it because you rarely drain your tank. Mine is drained at the end of every print session (normally a weekend's worth) or when something fails and has to be removed. I'd rather shake a bottle of resin than try and stir in vat and potentially tear the FEP, which I would then not spot.

There isn't a chuck key for the 4 jaw independent, it just uses the same Hex key as everything else. (The proper Emco one anyway)

From Practical Performance Car magazine

Ireland is currently a law unto itself with regards post, about 50% of the stuff we send there gets bounced back.

Bass player here, theoretically at least, I'm not sure when I last actually played it.

Just dug out some examples at work: Posted 6th May, Arrived in Italy on the 12th, delivered on the 30th. Another posted the 16th delivered 26th, Another posted 18th delivered 27th Latest one I can find posted 6th June, delivered 18th. Italy's postal system is notoriously bad, though there is a chance that the customs info has proved inadequate and at some indeterminate point both parcels may be returned to Dundas.

For your crumple zone chat I give you: Volvo C30 steel yield strengths. Grey is particularly weak, blue is average steel, getting more and more exotic from yellow through pink. Pink is the kind of stuff you get in high tensile bolts. Notice how the main cabin area is built to be tough, with the rest of the car pretty much sacrificial.

ABS simply works by computing the difference in wheel speeds - whereby all 4 wheels locked can read the same as all 4 wheels same speed. Though these days many cars with upgraded traction control /Stability control have an accelerometer as well which can be factored in. ABS still relies on pulsing brake application so lock-release is still going to happen, particularly to people who insist on buying tyres on price. You are very much mistaken if you think you can't lose control of a car or get it to lock up just because it has electronic aids.

Vallejo do a nice one in a very fine tube, I use it for filling tiny air bubbles in 3D prints and other minor surface imperfections. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-20-ml-Plastic-Putty/dp/B000TSBJEO

Based on the quotes we receive for manufacturing stuff in the UK vs China, you can expect UK made to cost about 7x more than Chinese made, and the Chinese made one will almost certainly be better and less hassle.

You need to start putting proper rafts under your prints, at least when you get fails it's then simple to get off the FEP. Getting tiny little dots like that off is nigh on impossible without deforming the sheet.

A clear sky is lightest at the horizon, and clouds vary in shade from dark to light - dark side facing the ground*, so in the OP's case the first way round shown is correct. *Except at sunrise and sunset when they can be illuminated from below.

You'll achieve more by sealing up draughts and reducing air leakage than with only an insulated roof - however you need to be aware that if you vapour barrier it all and get it nice and vapour tight, the vapour you create by being in there and breathing has nowhere to go, so you could end up with condensation problems in your new layout. Have you got windows? My advice would be insulate every surface evenly with at least 50mm expanded polystyrene or PIR if you can stretch to it. Vapour Barrier inside as long as you can ventilate your space work space (open window, ideally a modern double glazed window with trickle vent). Don't bother trying to ventilate between insulation and shed fabric, it won't achieve much other than potentially scavenging heat through gaps in insulation etc and making an inaccessible space for creepy crawlies to gather. Golden rules are: 1. If a Vapour barrier is present, have it as close to the inside of the room as possible to stop moisture getting into the structure from the inside 2. If there's an airspace created anywhere, ventilate it

Looks very promising indeed, looking forward to seeing how it's done

Many, if not all, automotive plastic primers in rattle cans are clear

Should this happen to anyone else, it may be possible to find the code retrospectively by going to your sold items and clicking on the print postage label option, which should display the address including code on the right hand side of the screen (proper computer, probably won't work on any kind of mobile or tablet). Note down number, cancel out of label purchase screen. (I haven't tested this theory as I don't have any click and collect sales recently, but I believe it should work).