Quarryscapes

Done - a very nice improvement in appearance. Now to decide if I'm going to deal with the incorrect bottom end "splasher" under the boiler or not. It all hinges on how well I can match the paint. Alternatively if someone wants to swap me their uphill end with the sand pots that could also work, and I could supply them with 3D printed cylindrical sand pots to match.

It's perfectly capable of climbing a realistic gradient as modified. I haven't had a layout in 20 years. I bought it because I like the prototype. (I'll be building a 16mm scale version too once I've finished James Spooner)

One end done, excuse poor quality phone pics, it's getting a bit dark in here, so I shall do the other end tomorrow. In my humble opinion, a worthwhile little modification.

It's a good scale 6" of daylight, and looks ridiculous. Easily remedied, once the bogies are out. Nearly there...

Addressing the god awful daylight under the footplate.

Right, Merddin arrived - now does anyone know how it comes apart? There's a lot of screws under there!

If the seller is using eBay postage labels then there is no Royal Mail option internationally, it's UPS only and that's at the rate quoted by the OP. Royal Mail signed for to Oz should be around the £10 mark.

I've given in and ordered Merddin. Gap will need to be rectified but I think I can do it. I do have rather intimate knowledge of this part of a Fairlie having worked on Taliesin's a long time ago and been in that gap removing a cracked blast pipe from DLG, and am slowly working on a 16mm James Spooner.

Certainly seems the general trend. I haven't received feedback on a single sale in the last month, and it's been a reasonably busy month too!

This is what I've now done, for Amazon use only. Nonsense, I'm not letting my hard earned sit in account earning zero interest for the benefit of bankers. My CC statement arrives on the say day as my wages, save for a £50 'emergency tank of fuel' float in the current account and the odd standing order, whatever's left after paying CC goes into interest paying savings (non card access) accounts - all regular spending goes on CC, thus earning those useful reward points mentioned earlier.

This is exactly what the Unifrog does.

This is a weak argument often put forward - you just remove them the same as you would direct from the bed.

Going to be a pain in the butt for my household, every card in my wallet is VISA, credit or debit. I mainly use a Barclaycard Freedom Rewards card for everything online, all that shopping adds up a a nice few quids worth of Amazon vouchers which covers a few Christmas Pressies each year. Having to maintain a bank account in credit just for Amazon is going to be mighty inconvenient.

100% a levelling issue. Don't worry though, it'll all come together with practice. You will need to re level periodically, you'll know when because this sort of one sided failure starts happening. Using magnetic build plates can lengthen the interval as you won't be disturbing the build plate so much.

That was the CLIP machine that was all the hype about 5 years ago... but nobody actually bought one and hasn't been heard of since. I had a print done on such a machine and it is still to this day the worst 3D print I've ever received.

Thanks Paul. Hmm yes. Still pretty jarring (for me anyway). Oh well, save the cash for the Hunslets!

What's the gap between footplate and bogie actually like in real life? It's been bothering me in the official images but can't see it from Paul's video angle there

Generally, yes. However best do a test on something sacrificial first.

List as classified ad on ebay, and your contact detail will be included. (Not 100% sure if available for all categories mind)

CSI premier user here. Works great, though for 16mm scale I prefer a small gas iron as the electric is just too dainty to get enough heat into large expanses of 1mm thick brass fast enough. I doubt the power output is anything like 75W but it heats up quick and holds temperature as expected.

I know what it says, but it doesn't answer my question. Is there a chip or not?

Are the none-sound ones DCC or DC as supplied?

Ordered

I've thinned Humbrol acrylics with water before now and it works. I also once added washing up liquid after a suggestion by someone, that I wouldn't recommend - it still works but it's all frothy! I personally prefer Vallejo airbrush thinner now. Enamel should be fine with white spirit, don't use turps substitute which has a tendency to not dry. Also beware universal thinners from automotive places, these are much too aggressive and whilst they may well work in a primer coat straight onto an unpainted model, they will more than likely react with any existing paint coat. Great for airbrush cleaning though. Speaking of airbrush cleaning, after the usual thinners have gone through (white spirit for enamel, Vallejo airbrush cleaner for acrylic) a final rinse with a drop or two of Wilko Cellulose thinner will remove the remains of paint the other cleaners haven't touched, which will be a surprising amount!

Somewhat incorrect is hardly an extreme statement, it's as mild as it gets. I am writing an article on the subject at the moment for NG&IRM. 1903+ locos have taller cab sheets, the front waist panels finish behind the saddle tank. Irish Mail having had a cab has differences again. After 1952: King of the Scarlets = Maid Marian bottom half, KOTS top half Maid Marian = King of the Scarlets Bottom Half, Velinheli Velinheli = Velinheli bottom half, Maid Marian top half.