chris p bacon

On returning from working in America in the 80's my Father moaned about the state of driving in the UK and how it had deteriorated, he then promptly set off on the right hand side of the road and attempted the High St roundabout in the original "French" way. Nothing changes but don't blame those in cars such as BMW.Merc etc for the worst, it's just another unfounded generalisation.

That's looking really good. When you start roofing I presume you're going to make a scaffold of sorts or get a couple of towers.

How far South of Peterborough ...... is there a road nearby......and would it fit in the back of a Nissan Cabstar...

The issue for a proposal between the MML somewhere near Luton and the ECML near Hitchin/Stevenage is avoiding the density of population/Housing and the topography of the land. A route further to the North is not quite so hampered.

Yes, if you look at a map the shortest route is on the alignment through Bedford (which still exists) then bridge the Bedford bypass (road over) skirting by Willington (as it did) with a slight deviation around Blunham, cross the A1 (again road over) and you are in open country North of Sandy, with plenty of room for a flyover the ECML to the up and a chord from the down. At Hitchin there is no reason why a cambridge bound service could not use the up platform and then reverse and utilise the old down Cambridge line, for West bound services it could utilise the flyover to access the down platform (I'm sure it's bi-directional) and again reverse to head North.

A bit further East. http://www.eastwestrail.org.uk/2015/07/27/study-identifies-two-most-viable-corridors-for-east-west-rail-central-section/?utm_source=EWR+website+subscribers&utm_campaign=6af7cec9dc-Project_Progress_July_20157_31_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_2857d8a26e-6af7cec9dc-242417729

3D print from Shapeways again ? or real wood......

It looks like the motor is in the trailer and the coupling between that and the trolley has electrical connection too, so pickups on the trolley as well ?

Anything can be Dcc'd so long as you can isolate the power feeds, the problem is where to put the chip, I'd figure on a small "N" chip under the roof of the trolley with the wiring down a pillar

I saw this on another thread and thought of this layout http://www.Bachmann.co.uk/details.php?id=368

I might be wrong but haven't Bachmann already done one ? if not there's possibly a kit out there somewhere.

Thanks Paul, much appreciated, I find now that when I start something I try and have as much stuff on hand to finish as I hate being stalled on a project, like Mike I enjoy "teaking" but lining is something I really don't and have tended to weather so as to cover it (not successfully either)

I may be wrong but weren't the Wickham trolleys given a run along the Buntingford branch or is that beer glass talk I've heard ?

Interesting Paul, for info was it any specific tape you used ? I'm working my way through a back log of kits at present (another 4 D & S wagons last week) but these are very much on the "to do" list and getting closer.

I've heard you've got a V2. . . .

Maybe, but who'd admit to being one.

Friend of mine brought a car and kept banging on about the FSH and how it made the car worth more, when he showed it to me I pointed out that it had 2 page 17's, when you looked a bit more at it, it was made up of various pages from Vauxhall service booklets and different garages spread about the country. Pretty worthless in the long run as the car (Cavalier) turned out to be cr*p and never got to the next MOT. I'd talk to the dealer and tell him you want either the FSH or some cash back, I wouldn't hold your breath though as I think you'll end up spending lots of effort and get pretty much nowhere. The second week at Secondhand car dealer college is "wear the customer down and feed them boll*cks until they give up" remember that most dealers have passed this course with distinction.

Yes it does, also that's not a bad price you got there.

Further to my post above, Rather than send private emails I'd like to give a public thank you to all those that emailed me with help and advice, It was much appreciated and of a great help. I can say that they were delivered to their new owner last night, so you never know they may reappear here in the future as projects progress. Once again thanks chaps, it's not easy dealing with an estate but help such as yours really does makes a difference.

Mike, what would you say was the average length of time to build them was? For my purposes I think they look ok, I have some D&S 6 wheelers but need more, these present a well priced alternative.

There's a lot in the club who would disagree, especially when things don't go to plan. . . they're going to buy ear defenders soon!

That's exactly what we do. There is no hard and fast rule that says you have to completely assemble one part before proceeding with another, each part performs its own function (vertical or horizontal stability) and so long as it goes in before you finish it's fine. Part of good building practice is good use of materials and reduction of wastage. . . . .you're nearly a professional! Looking good so far, keep going like this and it will outlast you easily

Whereas I find that going somewhere like Trains4u** means that you can look in the case or on the shelf and actually inspect and handle the item before purchasing. Think of it as digital purchasing. ** Other model shops are available, but quite possibly for a limited time

What's the chance of it heading south to Sandy. . Well you have to have hope, don't you.

That is the general rule but occasionally it will be a design choice. If the brick is clean with crisp edges it can have a struck (like a chamfer) pointing or raked (as it says the mortar is raked out to a depth of 1/4 -3/16 inch), Rough cast bricks generally have tooled or bagged joints ( Essentially you rub the joint with a cement bag).