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SteveBedding

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Blog Comments posted by SteveBedding

  1. Hello Nigel,

     

    As a relative newcomer to the black art of 2FS, I have found that some of the 'instructions' to be a bit daunting at first :(; however, as has been said, they do get easier with practice. I just looked at the 2-333 instructions and yes they are quite complex to begin with - I started with 2-361 (9'0" w/b with GWR DC brake) which appears to be considerably simpler... ...though with less illustrations :).

     

    There are many on RMweb who are involved with 2FS who can help / encourage when things get 'challenging' - I have found them all to be of great help in progressing my modelling, and retaining my sanity when it all goes completely wrong.

  2. ...mind you, what I know about icing a cake I could write on the back of my hand...

     

    [slight diversion off topic...:P - part of my selection criteria for SWMBO#2:

    1) Must like trains...

    2) Must cook...

    I must have got lucky second time round as a) SWMBO#2 likes trains and n-gauge in particular (she's learning slowly about being converted to 2mmFS...), and B) she's a trained chef :D

     

    end of diversion].

     

    Back to the classics; how about this for a cameo somewhere on the 'back' of the layout (where the 'straight' joins the 'curve', furthest from window)...

     

    247.jpg

     

    ...and just to keep the inspirational mojo flowing

     

    titfield1.jpg

     

    ...a suggestion for an Autocoach interior? :D

  3. ...Travelling at about half speed my Hymek takes about 1:30 to travel a complete circuit. This is about a scale 3/4 mile, so a scale speed of about 30 mph. Going much faster than this makes the train appear to travel much to fast through the Avonwick section...

     

    Surely, that's still too fast - I think the historical precedent was clearly defined in the Titfield Thunderbolt - not to exceed an avarage speed of 25mph... :D

  4. Looking very nice Kris.

     

    The addition of paint to the scultptamold does seem to make a big difference in reducing that brilliant white glow! Though, 6 days does seem to be a bit long to dry out - I think you may have put it on a bit thick... ... I think this is an oportunity to learn from your experience :P

     

    Just how long does it take to get round the layout at a 'reasonable' speed? I'm sure you could get dizzy in your swivel chair if you try to follow a train thats going too fast :) - more importantly - is the chair the one offered in the Not the Nine O'Clock News sketch on business negotiations.... ?

  5. Hi Steve.

     

    What Brass plates are you on about? Do you mean the bogie sideframes? If so Allen of Worsley works is etching some for me so hopefully I will have them soon.

     

    Missy :)

     

    Oops - I was having a senior moment ;). By brass plates I meant the very nice bracket that you had used to fit the motor... ...and for some unknown reason I had thought the body only came down as far as a line level with the buffers. Having looked back over previous entries (particularly Part VIII) shows that the side skirts (for better word) actually have the details already etched in...

     

    ...I should have just assumed that you would have had it covered :D

  6. Coming on nicely - although you say you're mojo isn't all there, it hasn't affected the quality of the work. :good_mini:

     

    How are you going to 'detail' the sides of those brass plates - I know that just about each one of the railcars was different in some respect, but I I thought that the 'bit underneath' had some detailing (grills?)

     

    c0165.jpg

     

    Keep working at it - It will be interesting to see your one alongside a Farish version... :D

  7. Looking good Kris and nice to see more progress happing on Avonwick :). Just where is the good farmer and Daisy, are they busy at work, or wandering off round the rest of the trackbed 'supervising'?

     

    The sculptamold does look good with the colouring added - how long did it take to dry eventually?

     

    Nice work Kris.

    ...Pity its Gods Wonderful Railway really!

    ;)

     

    Chris - "spherical objects" is all I can say to your disparaging comment :P. There is only one railway worth modelling and it isn't Red! (OK so maybe some of the diesel hydraulic D800s and Westerns were later, but that doesn't count :lol: (...I'll admit that Midland does come a close second though...)

  8. Ah yes, I'd forgotten about Farmer Giles and Daisy, it all comes back to me from your original posts in the dim and distant past... ...on an RMweb far, far away...

     

    The bridge is looking very nice, the additional depth to the sides does not detract and would not be 'noticable' if you hadn't posted the pictures of the original :P ; when you put the additional curved courses of bricks over the arch, it will blend in even more. The bogies on the B-Set look very nice (I'm guessing that you've done both of them now) and the coupling looks fine, but, is the colour of the Giant right?

  9. I saw St Ruth at the Expo and was mighty impressed - that's some fiddle yard/sector plat you have there :). I have always had a fondness for the old western hydraulics, especially the D800 Warships (though I have no idea why :huh:) so your avatar brings a :D to my face...

     

    I'll watch this with interest so keep it coming please (especially the pictures - warts & all ;))

  10. If you look at the paper bits as stuck to the body, they have been designed in Paint Shop Pro, white areas are areas that will remain as metal, the black areas, such as the windows, are black. Blue and red areas can then be added to part etch lines to bend, as if you were folding a scored piece of card.

     

    Thanks for the clarification Will - makes a lot of sense :) I had a look at that etching company's website, unfortunately it doesn't give much information. I'll be interested in seeing how things work out with them.

  11. Missy

     

    Glad to see you did finally 'decide' to build your own chassis - and very nice it looks too :) The clean neatness and simplicity is most impressive and is certainly worth further consideration as a way to 'adapt' the Farish Railcar (for those of us who don't have your sculpturing skills in building the etched body... :lol:)

     

    How are you going to do the side frames on the drive units?

     

    Steve

  12. If I really wanted to have my favourite steamer then it would have to be a Q1...but I guess IKB will turn in his grave at the thought of that on a GW branchline :O

     

    Fully understandable! However my justification for a Q1 on a GWR branchline is that in wartime anything could happen... I'm pretty certain that it didn't actually happen, but there's no reason why a Q1 hauling a load of AEROs (thats a GWR propellor wagon) in to Calne couldn't have happened :D; The RAF stations at Yatesbury and Lyneham, and the Maintenance Unit at Melksham could easily justify the potential for such a routing.

     

    If you're running a 'steam special' in the 80's, well, the world is your oyster when it comes to picking excuses... :lol:

  13. Technically speaking, 4' 7.5" works out at 9.52mm, and there is a new 9.5mm driving wheel in the Association range - watch out that the flange still fits the body though. Similar argument for the 14XX, wghere 10.5mm is the true scale equivalent.

     

    I also believe that the famine of 9mm drivers is now over, or if not, will very shortly be.

     

    Chris Higgs

     

    I stand corrected :) . Whilst I'm still getting to the point where I need them, I have been getting increasingly concerned over the shortages with the 9mm drivers since they are the predominantly required size needed for GWR conversions (57xx/8750, 45xx, 42xx etc) - having a complete mental block, I never considered that 9.5mm would be a more accurate fit :O (but as you noted, the flange clearence will need to be considered).

     

    Thanks again, that's two useful bits of info I've learnt today :D

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