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Hattons announce 14xx / 48xx / 58xx


Andy Y
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Er, not really, some of us are happy sticking with what we know and remaining in our cosy comfort zone (it's not called a 'comfort zone' for nothing!).

Agreed, just reading the multifarious and anguished appeals for DCC advice and assistance on here is enough to put me off. I seldom even understand the question. :jester:

 

My locos either work or they don't. When they don't, I can usually work out (and understand) why. I also understand, and am not intimidated by, wiring a layout for common-return cab control. Not needing to spend several thousand pounds and many hours chipping my locos has a bearing, too. 

 

DC - simply less to go wrong and easier to put right if it does........

 

John

 

PS. All that and wireless walkabout control (via smartphone if desired) from BlueRailways (usual disclaimer).

Edited by Dunsignalling
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Yes, I agree. Having been brought up since 8 that "that's the positive, that's the negative" has worked very well for me.

 

I don't need a smartphone; I've seen some first-rate, award winning 'gold' layouts, none of which relied on Nokia to make it go.

 

If I want some fried chips, I'll go to the chip shop.

 

I'll admit to being old fashioned. I still work in feet & inches (I can work in microns, if you wish).It's probably why I slightly object to:- A-paying top-whack for a locomotive. B:- Chipping the blessed thing, and give it an address (An address? More junk mail?) C:- Make it go "chuff". I don't really need a computer to hear it, and what's worse, if someone is mishandling the real thing.

 

So yes. I'm to blame. I'm a dinosaur in an increasing world of techno. But, I do know how to put an injector on, and when to ease the blower. However, If Nokia have an app for getting a foot of clinker off the bars, sign me up!

 

Ranting? Me? Never!

 

Ian.

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I spent a career as a software engineer - DCC?, I'd rather go back to clockwork.

To return to topic, my 14xx runs superbly on DC, and I am rather tempted to get another one - but will it be as good?...and will there be another batch?

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I spent a career as a software engineer - DCC?, I'd rather go back to clockwork.

To return to topic, my 14xx runs superbly on DC, and I am rather tempted to get another one - but will it be as good?...and will there be another batch?

Confession....I have three and all three run well on DC and are consistently identical in performance provided you run them in carefully and lubricate as per instructions. Will there be another batch ? I doubt it.The model has had mixed reviews but as you can see I have a soft spot for them.

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I spent a career as a software engineer - DCC?, I'd rather go back to clockwork.

To return to topic, my 14xx runs superbly on DC, and I am rather tempted to get another one - but will it be as good?...and will there be another batch?

I never had any problems with the DJ locos I've bought. They do need running in, with about an hour both ways. Just remember to follow the boxed notes. I ended up buying a rolling road to make things easier. If anything, I'd like to get another (4825) to complete my diagram.

 

Cheers,

Ian. (No connection, just a customer). There's too many Ian's on this forum!

Edited by tomparryharry
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I thought I'd look about, just to see if there were any 48xx on sale. Lo & behold, none appear to be any left. I could have swore that there were thousands of the blighters. I guess that people have cottoned on after all.

 

Cheers,

 

Ian.

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To return to topic, my 14xx runs superbly on DC, 

 

My replacement 58xx is fine on DC too. I happened to have it out again at the weekend when running in my new railcar. Still runs goods. I remember some comments back in this thread about them being rubbish on insulfrog points, yet I have a nasty curved point on my test track with insulfrog and it doesn't hesitate at all over it. My only issue now is being brave enough to try it on the Compspeed controller instead of a lab DC supply.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I spent a career as a software engineer - DCC?, I'd rather go back to clockwork.

To return to topic, my 14xx runs superbly on DC, and I am rather tempted to get another one - but will it be as good?...and will there be another batch?

If anything, DCC is actually easier to build, opertate and maintain than DC on so many levels.

I think that anyone stuck in the 1900's with DC operation is doing themselves out of a whole new world of opperational excitement and possibilities when it comes to running their trains.

Having a 3 or 4 locomotive consist on a heavy freight and being able to separate the engines sound completely from its motion is a sight and sound to behold.

Best investment I ever made.

 

Each to their own I guess.

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If anything, DCC is actually easier to build, opertate and maintain than DC on so many levels.

I think that anyone stuck in the 1900's with DC operation is doing themselves out of a whole new world of opperational excitement and possibilities when it comes to running their trains.

Having a 3 or 4 locomotive consist on a heavy freight and being able to separate the engines sound completely from its motion is a sight and sound to behold.

Best investment I ever made.

 

Each to their own I guess.

Indeed....and maintaining a whole chunk of operational bank balance.....sorry but I'm a Luddite and happy to so remain :senile:

Edited by Ian Hargrave
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Having a 3 or 4 locomotive consist on a heavy freight and being able to separate the engines sound completely from its motion is a sight and sound to behold.

 

Not a lot of call for triple- or quadruple-heading on UK-based layouts.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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I see some of these have sold out now on the hattons website. Will these come back in to stock or are they now gone?

 

Kind regards Neil

 

yes I was just looking to buy another H1401  (Great Western lettering) and saw they no longer have them in stock :(

 

I hope this was not a one off production run???

Edited by jwd
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I see some of these have sold out now on the hattons website. Will these come back in to stock or are they now gone?

 

Kind regards Neil

I understood that these were not a one off production run, so may well come back into stock, possibly new ones with different running numbers.

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Should Hattons & DJM run another batch, I'll be in for another. I'd guess quite a few other modellers would do so.

 

Ian.

 

If they did, I'd like 1466 (Didcot GWS) and/or 1442 (Tiverton Museum) in their preserved liveries.

 

I know at least 1466 has been done previously but it would be good to have it using the latest Hattons/DJM tooling.

 

I guess it depends if they can rally together enough new ones that people would be interested in, given there is still stock in excess of 100 left to sell...

Fingers crossed though!

 

Cheers,

Ixion.

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If they did, I'd like 1466 (Didcot GWS) and/or 1442 (Tiverton Museum) in their preserved liveries.

 

I know at least 1466 has been done previously but it would be good to have it using the latest Hattons/DJM tooling.

 

I guess it depends if they can rally together enough new ones that people would be interested in, given there is still stock in excess of 100 left to sell...

Fingers crossed though!

 

Cheers,

Ixion.

 

I'd certainly take 1466 in any livery, as well as a BR black 14xx early emblem, pristine finish. 1427 would be my preference but I wouldn't be too fussed

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Hi Guys

 

1466 gets my vote

 

Thanks

 

 

1450 sold well, so 1451 in a similar lined late livery (another engine for Hemyock), and then 1401 in Titfield guise, and an all black 14xx without top feed, and.....,and.....oh dear, lets not turn this into a wishlist....

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1450 sold well, so 1451 in a similar lined late livery (another engine for Hemyock), and then 1401 in Titfield guise, and an all black 14xx without top feed, and.....,and.....oh dear, lets not turn this into a wishlist....

 

Very surprised that 1401 a la Titfield hasn't been done, especially given some of the weathering on some of the other releases shows the process could be done. Its on my list of things to do, to get a pristine model and weather it to suit.

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I am sure this has been covered elsewhere in the thread, but how easy is it to change the number plate?

 

I glued my new plate over the existing one Neal.

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