Ruston Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 3 hours ago, sb67 said: Very nice weathering Ruston, not overdone at all it looks great, how did you acheive that? Have a look here - 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzer models Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 Got time to work on my army 48DS TODAY DS1169 fitted with 247 Developments etched plates by brian mosby, on Flickr 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nigcuberail Posted December 23, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2019 On 20/12/2019 at 14:21, gwrrob said: Mine is in progress and I was told they are overwhelmed with new releases and there is a backlog in the despatch department. Now in the post. [21/12/19] Mine too (CC debited 22/12/2019) - but I doubt it will arrive tomorrow 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted December 23, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 23, 2019 1 hour ago, nigcuberail said: Mine too (CC debited 22/12/2019) - but I doubt it will arrive tomorrow There's always some hope. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted December 23, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 23, 2019 20 hours ago, mozzer models said: DS1169 The right number. But although I never did discover what a Broad Clyst is, I did glimpse it there! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted December 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2019 2 hours ago, AlexHolt said: Anyone got any photos of the John Dewar & Sons version? I'm thinking of picking one up but the paint finish looks very plastic like on all the retailer's photos, could just be the white background and all the lighting they use. I can't find many customer pictures of this one, did it not sell as well as the others? There is at least one video on YouTube: Roy 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted December 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2019 8 minutes ago, AlexHolt said: Thanks. Thats the only video I can find on youtube of this model. Can't find any other videos or photos online of this particular one. The video makes it look like the engine compartment is a different shade of red to the under frames and cab doors. Similar to what I thought of the pictures on hattons and rails. I'm thinking I'll go down to my local model shop and see if they have any in stock to see if they actually look like that in person. I'd have bought the lined green version if they hadn't all sold out everywhere. Interestingly this photo (not mine) of the prototype makes the red look different as well and, in my opinion, quite toy like. Roy 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted December 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2019 Fresh from the box after running in, some pics of the Queen Anne (not great shots as new camera is wrapped for Xmas!). 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted December 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2019 Is anyone else having trouble separating the chassis from the body? Have just received my MOD 48DS and want to fit a decoder but am really struggling to get the body off and want to be careful as I don't want to do any damage. Yes, I have removed the four screws. Yes, I have removed the coupling bar and connecting wires. Yes, I have removed the front coupling blank. Yes, I have made sure that the plugs are clear of the body and not fouling. I can't see anything else holding the two together and yet I can't make the chassis move even the slightest. Have tried gentle prising with a screwdriver in the front coupling slot but NO movement at all. Almost as if glued in. Actually a tiny amount of shiny hard stuff (like hardened glue) around the rear coupling mount and I am unable to get a scalpel between the body and chassis at that point (but I am not trying too hard at present). Suggestions gratefully received please. Thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted December 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, highpeakman said: Is anyone else having trouble separating the chassis from the body? Have just received my MOD 48DS and want to fit a decoder but am really struggling to get the body off and want to be careful as I don't want to do any damage. Yes, I have removed the four screws. Yes, I have removed the coupling bar and connecting wires. Yes, I have removed the front coupling blank. Yes, I have made sure that the plugs are clear of the body and not fouling. I can't see anything else holding the two together and yet I can't make the chassis move even the slightest. Have tried gentle prising with a screwdriver in the front coupling slot but NO movement at all. Almost as if glued in. Actually a tiny amount of shiny hard stuff (like hardened glue) around the rear coupling mount and I am unable to get a scalpel between the body and chassis at that point (but I am not trying too hard at present). Suggestions gratefully received please. Thanks. Finally managed to separate the two. There is something, possibly oil (?), around the front screw holes under the chassis. Not sure what it is but something liquid seems to be holding the two parts together. Continuous gentle prising and finally a very faint crack noise (not something breaking!) as something gave and then it all came apart OK. Edit: It's weird. Whatever the "liquid" was it appears to have dried up by itself while the chassis was being fitted with the decoder. Reassembled and disassembled again without problems. Runs beautifully without match truck. Very happy - now! Edited December 24, 2019 by highpeakman Progress. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body? I've taken the body off the running chassis and there are two screws that appear to be holding the cab on. I've taken the screws out and the cab now rattles, so it doesn't appear to be glued to anything else but there's clearly something preventing it from coming off. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pre Grouping fan Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 15 minutes ago, Ruston said: Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body? I've taken the body off the running chassis and there are two screws that appear to be holding the cab on. I've taken the screws out and the cab now rattles, so it doesn't appear to be glued to anything else but there's clearly something preventing it from coming off. On the 08 which has a similar design (small bonnet larger cab) it might be clipped at front to the bonnet. The body sits in a slot on the end of the bonnett and is clipped at the bottom on the inside of the opening but not sure how the cab is fitted on the Ruston. It's hard to describe and unfortunately I've got no images to hand. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, Ruston said: Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body? I've done three now. All but one fell off once the two screws had been removed. The screws enter two cast spigots on the cab floor that engage in matching recesses in the outer chassis block. The tight one had a bit of leverage help with a no. 17 wedge blade and upon inspection seemed to have an excess of paint on the cab bottom. BUT before attempting to remove the cab I first remove the front buffer beam moulding. This locks the separate bonnet/cab assemblies in place via the flange along the top of the buffer beam. Happy Crumble, P Edited December 25, 2019 by Porcy Mane 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 (edited) Errr, sorry to ask again but what is the best method of removing the front coupling blanking plug? I need to fit a #17. I have tried the tip of a scalpel (the blood stopped after a couple of minutes under the cold tap), a tiny weeny instrument screwdriver (again, another blood-letting exercise) and finally asking it to come out - which failed but didn't involve pain, blood but did cause my wife to snigger*. Thank you *Postscript - SWMBO used the scalpel and the tiny plug just popped out, much muttering followed (mine) and even more laughter (hers) Edited December 29, 2019 by Jack Benson Humiliation but I will have my revenge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Of course your atemps helped lossen it! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 I wonder who undoes the jar lids in that household.... Jason 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 22 December 2019 at 19:13, mozzer models said: Got time to work on my army 48DS TODAY DS1169 fitted with 247 Developments etched plates by brian mosby, on Flickr Brian, Please explain a little more, especially colour scheme and methods. THANK YOU. JB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted December 30, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2019 Mine, prior to a repaint (red to ECC blue) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzer models Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 2 hours ago, Jack Benson said: Brian, Please explain a little more, especially colour scheme and methods. THANK YOU. JB I have not done much apart from repaint the Army one I used a photo from a Magazine (know idea which as its a cutting i was given so we could make the cab side plates (we 247 Developments) the nearest green paint i had to hand was GW Citadel's Loren Forest which than was weathered (still need to some more) the plates are here http://247developments.co.uk/electrics_&_diesels.html 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 1 hour ago, mozzer models said: I have not done much apart from repaint the Army one I used a photo from a Magazine (know idea which as its a cutting i was given so we could make the cab side plates (we 247 Developments) the nearest green paint i had to hand was GW Citadel's Loren Forest which than was weathered (still need to some more) the plates are here http://247developments.co.uk/electrics_&_diesels.html Large colour photo of DS1169 can be found here and thanks Brian, the plates are excellent. JB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzer models Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Jack Benson said: Large colour photo of DS1169 can be found here and thanks Brian, the plates are excellent. JB in the photo i have DS1169 still has a green rad cover 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coline33 Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thanks D1051 for the superb view. Just leaves the Conflat to be re-liveried into Army green - I gave known numbers of similar army flats in my post of 18th December if that helps to create one even if fictitious! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Firecracker Posted January 4, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2020 One of these lovely little beasts joined the roster on Sedbergh today care of Monk Bar Models. Possably the easiest DCC instal I’ve every done, body came straight off, Gaugemaster 6 pin decoder popped straight in on top of the motor. Only mod I’ve done is to swap the conflat body for a 5 plank dropside body I weathered earlier. Superb slow speed near silent running straight out of the box. Very impressed indeed. The Queen Anne livery was chosen because a) it’s different and b) earlier in the year I got ‘volunteered’ into clearing and sorting a load of ham radio gear. It came packed in Queen Anne Whisky boxes! Owain 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 I finally picked up one of those as well. Forgot how small they actually are. I thought they'd sent some N Gauge thing by mistake. It's about the same size as one of these Fleischmann N Gauge 0-4-0Ts if you remove the Ruston's cab... https://www.hattons.co.uk/13423/fleischmann_7000_0_4_0t_maffei_7_in_black_and_red/stockdetail.aspx Sorry, no photos as I don't have a digital camera. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JSModels Posted January 6, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2020 Pleased to see 3 new liveries of this announced this morning - DVLR 'Jim', Grant Rail, and the Express Diaries livery. Not available until September though. Not pleased to say they're £10 more expensive than the last lot... that's a 12.5% increase on the RRP!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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