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Beginners loco kits


sb67
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I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find any info. I've always fancied trying to build one so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a beginners loco kit, a small shunter with motor and wheels included. I've built a resin kit of a  hunslet shunter but the body was pre cast. Just wanted something a bit different.

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9 minutes ago, Kris said:

These seem to build up rather nicely from what I have heard and seen. 

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco Kit Pages/Starter Loco.html

 

They do. The first etched brass loco I built was the Jinty and it was an absolute pleasure to build. Good instructions and well designed. But I would guess the OP wants 4mm rather than O Gauge and Jim hasn't done any 4mm for about four years.

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/4mm Scale 00 Gauge.html

 

 

 

Jason

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1 hour ago, sb67 said:

I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find any info. I've always fancied trying to build one so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a beginners loco kit, a small shunter with motor and wheels included. I've built a resin kit of a  hunslet shunter but the body was pre cast. Just wanted something a bit different.

 

What's your interests? A Hunslet shunter suggests industrial.

 

Have a look at Judith Edge, High Level and RT Models. All modern, well designed kits with good instructions. Some you may have to buy wheels/motors/etc separately but they aren't hard to find. Alan Gibson and places like Wizard Models and Branchlines sell most of the bits.

 

http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/catalogue/judithedge

 

http://highlevelkits.co.uk/

 

https://www.rtmodels.co.uk/rt_models_022.htm

 

For tips on building kits have a look here. A very useful guide that whilst aimed at O Gauge is relevant to 4mm as well.

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Questions.html

 

 

Jason

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I recommend High Level. Instructions are fantastic, all the bits fit and Chris Gibbons (proprietor) is probably the most helpful supplier in the business. You'll need to source wheels, but the kit will tell you which Alan Gibson ones to get.

 

Have a look, as suggested by Steamport Southport.

Edited by Mick Bonwick
: Finger trouble.
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The Judith Edge Hunslet 15"' went together well in 7mm so I would expect the same from the 4mm version providing your eyes and fingers are up to it. You haven't mentioned your current skill set. If your soldering skills are yet to be developed, could I suggest some practice work on scrap brass before you start on an etched kit. The 7mm Flying Scotsman From Hachette is still readily available on EBay. The first issue provides the parts for the cab which are a good exercise in soldering. Just don't be tempted to buy the rest!

Apart from the K kits of my youth, I cannot think of many kits complete with wheels and motor. Most kit manufacturers will suggest suitable items to complete the model and some can supply them but you need to factor in the extra cost.

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5 minutes ago, hayfield said:

I think most kits now will need motor, wheels and gears being either brought as an extra or separately

 

I would go for a small 0-4-0 or 0-6-0, I myself  prefer whitemetal bodies and etched chassis. I can highly recommend Southeastern Finecast kits

 

A few years ago I would have agreed.

 

But I find the modern etched kits to be so well designed they virtually fall together whereas most whitemetal kits need quite a bit of fettling.

 

If wanting to try a whitemetal kit I would go for one of the 51L wagon kits. If you mess up you've only wasted a few pounds and they are just a step up from building plastic kits.

 

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/

 

As an example, if you can build a Parkside or Ratio wagon kit then you can build one of these with a bit of practice soldering. Or even glue, but solder is much better.

 

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/mrd351/

 

 

 

Jason

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Jason

 

Seasons greetings and the good thing is we both can agree to disagree. I guess the best kits are those which use the correct material for each part. I have an old Wills P class loco kit which has a Branchlines etched detail kit with it, the thin bits in brass and the chunky round bits in whitemetal. Some London Road models have cast resin boilers as well as etched and cast parts. For a first kit something that is both small and simple

 

I just like the weight that whitemetal gives the loco, the ease you can both solder the large bits then fill the gaps if required. I do accept cab sides etc look far better in sheet brass

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5 hours ago, sb67 said:

I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find any info. I've always fancied trying to build one so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a beginners loco kit, a small shunter with motor and wheels included. I've built a resin kit of a  hunslet shunter but the body was pre cast. Just wanted something a bit different.

I think the DJH 02 shunter kit might fit your needs.

Cheers

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High Level kits are indeed beautifully designed, but they are extremely fiddly to build.  I leave it to the OP to have a look at the High Level instructions referred to by Jason above and decide whether something of that complexity is for him.  I'm also not at all sure that starting with a very small loco is a good idea - very small seldom means simpler but can often mean much fiddlier.  If you want something that's well designed and comes with wheels and motor, have a look at Peter Stanger's 52F models (https://www.52fmodels.org/about-us) - maybe one of his 0-6-0 tank engines would be a good starter. It's still a bit fiddly, but bigger!

 

DT

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As mentioned - the DJH 02 shunter is ideal, but very hard to track down. (They also did a Barclay - the kits were complete with wheels/gears/motor)

I built mine as a challenge at a club night. It took less than 2 hours- then another 2 hours to replace the cast handrails.

They do build up into a nice looking model and run well as they are quite weighty. (Cruel close up)

D2853_02c.jpg.0b60fcf665ae9d926846bfa74c2b8993.jpg

 

 

Unless the OP is competent at soldering, I would try and avoid kits that are mainly brass.

Go with whitemetal that can be glued and if steam - avoid valve gear.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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7 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

Why not go for a chassis conversion for an RTR loco? Get a body from Country Park Models and one of the Comet chassis kits. You will need a gearbox and wheels though, so it doesn't quite meet your criteria

Cheers

Can you supply a link for Country Park Models please?

 

Adrian

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8 hours ago, newbryford said:

As mentioned - the DJH 02 shunter is ideal, but very hard to track down. (They also did a Barclay - the kits were complete with wheels/gears/motor)

I built mine as a challenge at a club night. It took less than 2 hours- then another 2 hours to replace the cast handrails.

They do build up into a nice looking model and run well as they are quite weighty. (Cruel close up)
 

<snip>

 

Unless the OP is competent at soldering, I would try and avoid kits that are mainly brass.

Go with whitemetal that can be glued and if steam - avoid valve gear.

 

Cheers,

Mick


That is one kit I keep meaning to have a go at. There was a good magazine article a few years ago about building it, can anybody remember which magazine it was? I would find reference to it useful, as may the OP. 

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

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3 hours ago, adriank said:

Can you supply a link for Country Park Models please?

 

Adrian

Sorry, no; they don't appear to have one anymore. They do appear at many shows however, I've bought many additions to the stash from them.

Cheers

1 hour ago, polybear said:

Somewhat disappointingly, and after just checking, DJH seem to have dropped the kit from the range :(

 

You could always put in a saved search to eBay. Eventually it will turn up, this is how I bought mine.

Cheers

 

1 hour ago, Roy Langridge said:


That is one kit I keep meaning to have a go at. There was a good magazine article a few years ago about building it, can anybody remember which magazine it was? I would find reference to it useful, as may the OP. 

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

It goes together very well, even I can do it! One thing though, the BR version has handrails inside the shunters footwell and holes for these have to be drilled before assembly, you won't get access after.

Barrow Hill have a really nice restored example and they will give permission for detailed photos.

Cheers

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4 hours ago, Roy Langridge said:


That is one kit I keep meaning to have a go at. There was a good magazine article a few years ago about building it, can anybody remember which magazine it was? I would find reference to it useful, as may the OP. 

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

There was an article in Railway Modeller 2001 May, but that is for 7mm. I thought the OP wanted a 4mm kit, though?

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23 minutes ago, kevinlms said:

There was an article in Railway Modeller 2001 May, but that is for 7mm. I thought the OP wanted a 4mm kit, though?

There was an article on the 4mm version much more recently than that. I think it may have been in Model Rail, but by no means 100% certain. 
 

Roy

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I haven't built a loco kit for many years as RTR supplies most of my needs, but am planning a Southeastern chassis for an ancient Wills 1854 pannier body kindly donated by Philou of this parish.  Whitemetal is not difficult to work with and can be glued if you are not comfortable with soldering it, but distorts easily and you will have to 'fettle' each part to fit.  Some people find this sort of filing and fitting therapeutic, and others find it an onerous and irritating example of bad design and production.  

 

Etched brass/nickel silver has a bit of a reputation as being only for the most experienced and skilled and can be difficult if you have to roll shapes in it, especially boilers and rounded corners, but for straight pieces is ideal, and folding for right angled corners is very easy.  Fold-up chassis of this sort will be very easy to build and the axle holes will align automatically, and perfectly.  I cannot see why a simple chassis for a diesel shunting engine or inside cylindered steam should present any difficulty for any modeller who has built wagon kits successfully and is prepared to study the instructions carefully.  It is important to take time to do this so that you have a good understanding of the order in which things go together before you start to build anything.  This is no time to be a guy, ignoring the instructions, and thinking that anything is obvious; there are traps in this for the unwary or impatient.  

 

This is why the instructions need to be of a very good quality, clearly set out and legible.  Ideally, something like Comet's coach kit instructions; step by step written stages backed up by diagrams and a general advice book 'Building coaches the Comet Way', which will very effectively fix the process in your mind and help you avoid mistakes.

 

I build kits in order to obtain models of locos or stock that is not available RTR in decent quality, and this is perhaps not the best reason to do it.  Kits are a hobby in themselves, and their own satisfaction, and some are designed to be very high detailed models when they are finished, and incorporate difficult and fiddly fine scale detail parts that have to be assembled.  I would be very wary of attempting any loco kit that involve outside valve gear, but reckon I could manage simple piston/crosshead/slidebar/connecting rod assembly.  Just as well I model GW...

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