mikesndbs Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 OMG what a f'ing nightmare that was, getting the body off and on. Undid the required screws, but stupidly Bachmann had glued the cab inserts to the chassis. Then once I discovered I could not get access to the motor without a full strip down and decided to put the body back on, it just would not go back properly. The very stupid bit of black tape around the dominos peeled off and had to be put back a dozen times. One of the perspex clips had snapped off despite being eased with card inserts in the normal way So you were faced with trying to keep the cab insets fitted in the roof with blue tac and then trying to line up the screw hole at the front which attaches to the insert. Its done now, but one of the dominos has light showing through above it and there are wresting fingers marks all over to be cleaned off. Given that we are all encouraged to fit dcc to locos these days would you not think they would make it easier to get access. That's three brand new locos from Bachmann and two have been a right pain in the arse with stupid mistakes and poor design. Give me Lima anyday. Bitterly disappointed 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 3, 2015 Hi Mike Yes I don't like the use of the extended door glazing as fixing clips either! CHeers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jjb1970 Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 3, 2015 The sad thing is that Bachmann are the company that figured out how to make DCC fitting simple with their 350, why can't they make that their standard arrangement? OK for older tooling it is not practical but for newly tooled models it should be dooable for many types. Obviously that may mean compromises with the bottom of the model, but how often does anybody look at the underside of a model when it is on a layout? On the 47 it is a cracking model, foibles over dismantling aside. I used to think that the ViTrains 47 was the best 47 available but after the last round of tweaks by Bachmann I'd rate theirs as the best effort now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 The sad thing is that Bachmann are the company that figured out how to make DCC fitting simple with their 350, why can't they make that their standard arrangement? OK for older tooling it is not practical but for newly tooled models it should be dooable for many types. Obviously that may mean compromises with the bottom of the model, but how often does anybody look at the underside of a model when it is on a layout? On the 47 it is a cracking model, foibles over dismantling aside. I used to think that the ViTrains 47 was the best 47 available but after the last round of tweaks by Bachmann I'd rate theirs as the best effort now. I do agree that the Bachmann 47 looks stunning, but it does have to be opened at some time in the future, especially for DCC chaps, if that opening results in degradation then it is very poor indeed. As Phil observed above the silly idea of using the extremely brittle door glazing as body clips is just bad design. The slimy black tape around the headcode box is a waste of time, and why on earth glue the cab inserts to the chassis if they are supposed to stay within the roof!!! And all this before I mention its impossible to lubricate the motor bearings (as directed) without even more stripping down and no doubt more damage! I have sent a big complaint off to Bachmann after all this because this consistant bad design and lack of quality control as ruined it for me. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/99748-Bachmann-30-325-ambulance-train-40/?view=getnewpost 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium James Makin Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 3, 2015 I agree with this, I've been gradually going through my collection rebuilding the '47s' into some of my favourites but it is a fiddle! I end up removing the window clips and re-glueing all of the windows directly back in without the additional plastic, as well as removing the cab lighting entirely. The fiddle I find is reattaching the central silver screw that goes into each cab moulding, rarely does it line up on the first few attempts! Overall I'd wager the Bachmann model is the best we've seen so far, and I've tackled a few jobs so far below but plenty more projects in the years to come! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 3, 2015 I end up removing the window clips and re-glueing all of the windows directly back in without the additional plastic, as well as removing the cab lighting entirely. How do you secure the front frames (ie the buffer beam) in the absence of the clip at the bottom of the cab door window molding? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium James Makin Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 3, 2015 How do you secure the front frames (ie the buffer beam) in the absence of the clip at the bottom of the cab door window molding? I tend to find that's where the annoying silver screw does most of the work! If I don't put the screw back in it does sag but if tightened well it brings it all back looking how it should! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I tend to find that's where the annoying silver screw does most of the work! If I don't put the screw back in it does sag but if tightened well it brings it all back looking how it should! Unless it strips the thread of course Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted June 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 3, 2015 I tend to find that's where the annoying silver screw does most of the work! If I don't put the screw back in it does sag but if tightened well it brings it all back looking how it should! Thanks - both of mine were second hand and missing those screws! Currently got the body off one for sound fitting and broke a tab, not such a problem now - just need to find a couple of suitable screws 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Hi guys, many thanks for your help got the follow up video up now showing the issues I had with the 47 and some nice running towards the end. Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amberleafsmoker Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Just a quick question out of curiosity, would there be much work involved in putting a Lima body on to a Bachmann chassis. Just that I have a non runner Lima class 47 in my spares cupboard... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR(S) Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Just a quick question out of curiosity, would there be much work involved in putting a Lima body on to a Bachmann chassis. Just that I have a non runner Lima class 47 in my spares cupboard... See 2/3rds of the way down the page here: http://www.sgpyke.co.uk/railway/locos/Class%2047%20mods.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amberleafsmoker Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 See 2/3rds of the way down the page here: http://www.sgpyke.co.uk/railway/locos/Class%2047%20mods.htm Many thanks for that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 To be honest I have not had any issues with any of my 47s from Bachmann. I think I have 4 now, unscrew, pop off the body, chip it then back onto the layout. Could these be older 47s you have? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 To be honest I have not had any issues with any of my 47s from Bachmann. I think I have 4 now, unscrew, pop off the body, chip it then back onto the layout. Could these be older 47s you have? Hi, don't think so, in my video does the inside look the same as yours? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James90012 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I've had major trouble with some Bachmann 47s, and then others have been a breeze. The problem is though, if you get one that won't separate, it can be nigh on impossible to get it off! As an aside - would 47834 Fire Fly be suitable for renumbering to 47826 Springburn? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Strange ,I've never had any issues with bachy 47s from 035 to 535. Now Hornby 31s what a PITA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Question, has anyone stripped down to oil motor bearings? If so, how did you get on and any tips? As you can hear in my video its making a grinding noise in one direction that goes when you increase speed, feel sure its the motor bearings but don't want to risk opening it unless I have some clear idea of what is to come. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium James Makin Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 As an aside - would 47834 Fire Fly be suitable for renumbering to 47826 Springburn? I'd say yes, James - areas to look for are the head code ends and the roof boiler ports - Flickr is a lifesaver for this showing you multiple pics in one go! Both locos appear to have similar arrangements so looks like a straightforward renumber! Even if you need to change one or the other, Shawplan make parts for both head code and roof, happy days! I've got a 'Fire Fly' tucked away set to become Intercity favourite 47840 'North Star', one day! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James90012 Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 I'd say yes, James - areas to look for are the head code ends and the roof boiler ports - Flickr is a lifesaver for this showing you multiple pics in one go! Both locos appear to have similar arrangements so looks like a straightforward renumber! Even if you need to change one or the other, Shawplan make parts for both head code and roof, happy days! I've got a 'Fire Fly' tucked away set to become Intercity favourite 47840 'North Star', one day! From what I can see the only difference is '826 has sealed beam marker lights at both ends, whilst 834 has sealed at one end but those opaque markers at the other. Think I can live with that though! Oh and 834 has a red bufferbeam but 826 was black. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium James Makin Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 From what I can see the only difference is '826 has sealed beam marker lights at both ends, whilst 834 has sealed at one end but those opaque markers at the other. Think I can live with that though! Oh and 834 has a red bufferbeam but 826 was black. Good spot! I'm sure Shawplan have the marker lights as part of their head code pack so that is modellable if you are feeling tempted! I reckon the biggest difference will be when painting out all the white wall wheels and fancy bits, cover it in brown gunge and start making it look like a proper 90s workhorse! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 I'd say yes, James - areas to look for are the head code ends and the roof boiler ports - Flickr is a lifesaver for this showing you multiple pics in one go! Both locos appear to have similar arrangements so looks like a straightforward renumber! Even if you need to change one or the other, Shawplan make parts for both head code and roof, happy days! I've got a 'Fire Fly' tucked away set to become Intercity favourite 47840 'North Star', one day! Is that just a straight renumber as well? I got a reasonably priced Fire Fly but would much rather 840 "North Star" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks - both of mine were second hand and missing those screws! Currently got the body off one for sound fitting and broke a tab, not such a problem now - just need to find a couple of suitable screws On one of my Bach 47/7's I replaced two broken body securing glazing tabs with small suitably sized pieces of plasticard mek'd to the shell, good as better than new now ! Another issue is that the BB footsteps don't always line up with the small slits in nose lower edge, stopping the BB fitting flush to the body. Re-fixing the steps to the body instead of the BB solves that problem. HTH Ken 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James90012 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Do you think these would do the trick? Edit: couldn't paste the link but the product code is Shawplan DP37-06 Edited June 9, 2015 by James90012 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 OK mine is still grinding in one direction, dead slow ok, then there is the area of grind before as speed increases (not much) it sounds smooth again. Its also perfectly smooth at all speeds in the other direction. What is this likely to be? I did drop some oil on the prop shafts and end bearings of the worms. I'd feel happier if I could get some on the motor bearings because what I don't want to do is damage it by using it. Is there really no body who has stipped it down on here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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