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Ruston & Hornsby 0-6-0DE announced in OO by Kernow, Heljan & Model Rail.


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Mine is listed as arriving tomorrow 😃. Gone for 654 weathered as it was once hauled up to Scotland for a short while.

Anybody looked at sound options yet? Legomanbiffo is out of stock. I've listened to the Digitrains video and it sounds good, but it's talking about gears. The 165DE doesn't have gears, it's a traction motor. The mechanical 165DS will have gears, is this what they recorded?

Neil.

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Nearly every photo I have seen of these during development shows a variable gap between the body and running-plate as if one of the two isn’t straight, something that has made me reluctant to order.

 

The photos on Kernow’s website show this clearly, but I do not know if they are of production models or not. For example:

4C63A516-2F32-4B65-9B87-2C3419A803E5.jpeg.ce510da002c12ed6e408ea8c12dc7553.jpeg


Can someone who has received a production model post some photos or comment please?


Many thanks,

 

Roy
 

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11 hours ago, zoomer1979 said:

Mine is listed as arriving tomorrow 😃. Gone for 654 weathered as it was once hauled up to Scotland for a short while.

Anybody looked at sound options yet? Legomanbiffo is out of stock. I've listened to the Digitrains video and it sounds good, but it's talking about gears. The 165DE doesn't have gears, it's a traction motor. The mechanical 165DS will have gears, is this what they recorded?

Neil.

It has arrived, it's a lovely little thing.

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8 hours ago, Roy Langridge said:

Nearly every photo I have seen of these during development shows a variable gap between the body and running-plate as if one of the two isn’t straight, something that has made me reluctant to order.

 

The photos on Kernow’s website show this clearly, but I do not know if they are of production models or not. For example:

4C63A516-2F32-4B65-9B87-2C3419A803E5.jpeg.ce510da002c12ed6e408ea8c12dc7553.jpeg


Can someone who has received a production model post some photos or comment please?


Many thanks,

 

Roy
 

Yes there are gaps, where the body clips onto the chassis. I will see what I can do with it once my DCC chip arrives.

Neil.

 

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14 hours ago, Roy Langridge said:

Nearly every photo I have seen of these during development shows a variable gap between the body and running-plate as if one of the two isn’t straight, something that has made me reluctant to order.

 

The photos on Kernow’s website show this clearly, but I do not know if they are of production models or not. For example:

4C63A516-2F32-4B65-9B87-2C3419A803E5.jpeg.ce510da002c12ed6e408ea8c12dc7553.jpeg


Can someone who has received a production model post some photos or comment please?


Many thanks,

 

Roy
 

 

I've noticed this too - reminds me of one side of my Kernow Adams 02 0-4-4T!

The radiator end seems to sit down correctly, and on your model the cab also looks OK - I assume that the PWM has a cast metal footplate which looks straight to me, so perhaps the join between cab and bonnet isn't properly aligned?

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Mine just arrived…

 

AC96F16E-8ECD-4459-B95F-7BAF36D9257A.jpeg.a0c8f8e3cd1d9da298a1e93565a3819c.jpeg
 

Weighs in at a humble 138g…

Comes with a parts bag and magic wand.

 

lovely printing and finish…

BC0F0BE8-F4E2-4388-B011-D9794A21F831.jpeg.15d9028a38fc6b07f5a7ca2e72160e77.jpeg

 

53E63A4F-A79D-4762-BBE5-87C2832A3A30.jpeg.d865d7657b153371fda2c1068cdf540f.jpeg

 

cab interior is a bit basic…


4F2B23E9-22D4-4BB9-AFC4-F40886E2FACE.jpeg.8851d476ef86339d1f579d6179699072.jpeg


 

but does illuminate..

F966AFEA-9995-4BC3-8241-54308DDC4C37.jpeg.c1d4b931d6c454bf5f7c46644082cfa0.jpeg
 

 

Personally I think I would have preferred the headlights to illuminate..

39A6825B-3BBE-4C63-8E1C-37DFA1EC5183.jpeg.96b880e0b8bd67c07a40a9a552c2e325.jpeg

As it stands out next to that rather nice rendition of the Ruston builders plate.

 

C848DF39-B2B5-4263-8E43-80227924BF5A.jpeg.97ae856ec7e1b988582d37faf7f9d448.jpeg

comes with prefitted couplings


 

look at the lovely coupling cranks, but try to ignore the big red arrow…


858496F4-DD9E-4CD7-BE76-5BDB8901CC39.jpeg.640145ba06d0736a1603f6d2bfcd40c0.jpeg

 

 

 

onto the drive mechasism…

 

Well actually I cannot….

 

The box comes with an “ addendum” to the instructions, asking you to remove the sandboxes, to gain access to the body screws..

F074B324-0659-48F6-9120-0B9D6DF55E85.jpeg.6d5d2debeec335267cdc7e3db6bd8eef.jpeg
 

unfortunately on mine those screws are so over tightened, or glued in that nothing of my 20 or so miniature screws will undo, so no DCC fitting possible on mine…

(fortunately I dont do DCC).


There seems to be a reason for this, as the body is not clipping to the chassis…

 

CCAD0E82-5507-467F-A473-ACF7B713AE28.jpeg.1e69472071b162c16c18c3571c507eaf.jpeg


And whilst I can push up the frame to the clip, the clip is insufficient to hold the body to the frame.

 

 

A major point of interest is this locos turn of speed, it is very slow, at full speed (it is a shunter afterall), and this is well and truly compensated at the slow end of the scale…. Yes this motor is turning the wheels at less than 0.02amp !!!

C678B1D3-C50F-422C-83B5-9BF2D81DE352.jpeg.599f42949d7faac19cfff98eb668940f.jpeg

These wheels are turning !!!


 

parts bag to fill out the buffer beam..

 

D8F5EFC5-9A4A-4A87-A27E-57097AD759A3.jpeg.a7c5338226c4b3c0238c99bc667743e4.jpeg

346256EB-2E91-4938-92FA-ED547226EF71.jpeg

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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So intrigued..

 

The instructions contain two routes into the motor…

This second route comes with a real health warning..

 

As the screws arent coming loose, the second method is via the crank to the conrod and unscrewing the body…

 

You need to remove the bar, I found it wasnt as simple as removing the handle, you need to remove the bar holding the handle.. in the end I removed the whole piece including the wheel crank..739A6DA9-E05E-4770-ABFC-1CB9EDB42EC0.jpeg.36a104b258c1e4b309816237f9171921.jpeg

(I need to fix the handle)…

The crank is push fit, but it is a minuscule and flimsy assembly.

 

There after it's easy.  The whole design of this chassis / body reminisces of the class 03..

5D167F98-220D-49B3-B5E2-09F35B0DB6E8.jpeg.3ce2dad2a125cbe3b88bcef5ae098091.jpeg

 

remove the couplings, and unscrew the screws underneath..

 

 

 

0FC37FF3-17E1-47DC-B603-0EA030B87EED.jpeg.76ce5b09e47465d3c4e6977ecdc260b3.jpeg
 

The body is two pieces, held by 1 screw..

AB4FF2E1-F287-443D-AB27-76CA138DDBD7.jpeg.be8ca49cb3ec3aff08c9ba1bb535603d.jpeg

note the hole in the glazing piece between the two windows, perhaps a working light was once considered ?
 

 

With the body off attention turned to the body and those screws… 

The reason they arent coming off is because the front end is glued down.. A632525A-688B-43D0-9EC0-CE746463BB2D.jpeg.c168255d03b75437ab5420738ba00da9.jpeg

You can see the residue here…

 

I had to drill out the screws in the end, but it comes apart well..B9539733-95C0-4A63-9E4B-1E4389890FB5.jpeg.58469e68e818cf3b6aabae57b4ede2fb.jpeg

 

The frame is not bent, the body is flat along the bottom and the lugs do line up… so the problem isnt  here… so I took the plunge..

 

With a craft knife I removed the lip going along the frame, marked here..

46E84410-3074-4DC4-988B-C0EDBFC15324.jpeg.433e01e21c9a0dc2577e5fa8066dad8d.jpeg
Simply smoothing this down solved the issue and the body clips back to the frame..

 

I also just added a little black marker to the lips..

396AC293-B857-4713-AA1A-DA182C5CC19B.jpeg.928254514c5ee007fe030f65776c4918.jpeg

 

and reassembled…

 

The results are a huge improvement..

B99756D5-FDC6-4355-95B6-5870F30F7E23.jpeg.3902ddbd9d28776ff4c032642cc88ee6.jpeg


ive just now to put the various detached pieces back on..

 

before..

BE706AD3-37A0-4BF5-BDB9-4265D8819A26.jpeg.b8279fa459c5cbba4a31d55c4d188cc2.jpeg

 

After..

7E1CBFAA-B435-4218-87ED-7F72F4061623.jpeg.13dc095f53dc72ab343fd211c1b35b28.jpeg


 

Whilst you shouldnt need to do this on a £170 loco, i think you need to, as its not as simple as not clipping in, and in the long run the i  think the frame will bend if left….

 

 

oh one last thing.. weve gone back to the 1990’s … no sprung buffers, in addition to no working headlights.

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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Good job @adb968008 but we really shouldn’t be having to go to these lengths on a brand new model in this day and age. 
 

Yet again, Heljan seems to have let themselves down. 
 

Yes, I will probably order one, but I do so rather reluctantly as it just sends the message that offering models with what looks to be a design fault is ok. It is not as if it was not visible in earlier photos before we got to production models. 
 

Edit: I assume the front end has been glued to compensate for the clips not working as designed because the body is standing pround?
 

Roy

Edited by Roy Langridge
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1 hour ago, Albie the plumber said:

Congratulations are in order for having the balls to take a £170 .00 model apart .

Its Friday night, if I went out in London i’d spend that easily, and still have nothing to show for it.

 

1 hour ago, Albie the plumber said:

Gluing the front end seems very amateurish .

What an interesting job that is going to be when fitting sound !  


Yes theres not much space in side the bonnet.

 

The motor is excellant, it moves on next to nothing and it just gently crawls along.

It does without doubt look fantastic, and who would think we now have 3 Rustons in rtr ?

 

Its nice.

 

However, Ive bought my one,  it could have been three.. but for the non functional head light, (it looks like it was originally designed to have them),  and no sprung buffers !! - argh back to the 1990’s, otherwise I think this would be a top rank model.

 

As for the clips.. lets see what everyone elses looks like.

 

 

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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20 minutes ago, adb968008 said:


Yes theres not much space in side the bonnet.

 

The motor is excellant, it moves on next to nothing and it just gently crawls along.

It does without doubt look fantastic, and who would think we now have 3 Rustons in rtr ?

 

Its nice.

 

However, Ive bought my one,  it could have been three.. but for the non functional head light, (it looks like it was originally designed to have them),  and no sprung buffers !! - argh back to the 1990’s, otherwise I think this would be a top rank model.

 

As for the clips.. lets see what everyone elses looks like.

 

 

 

 

Indeed ! 

On early pics (page 1 ) it shows the models as having marker light assemblies , at least on the front end .

So now I'm wondering if they ever had such lights ( maybe oil lamps were used ? ) or did Heljan simply  omit them ?

Edited by Albie the plumber
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8 hours ago, Albie the plumber said:

Indeed ! 

On early pics (page 1 ) it shows the models as having marker light assemblies , at least on the front end .

So now I'm wondering if they ever had such lights ( maybe oil lamps were used ? ) or did Heljan simply  omit them ?

It depends which number your buying 97652 didnt have them looking at pictures, but 97651 does.

 

Heljan has done a blue version of 97652 which does, but I cannot find any pictures of it in blue with shunting lights at frame level

Edited by adb968008
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10 hours ago, Albie the plumber said:

Indeed ! 

On early pics (page 1 ) it shows the models as having marker light assemblies , at least on the front end .

So now I'm wondering if they ever had such lights ( maybe oil lamps were used ? ) or did Heljan simply  omit them ?

Over on the Kernow Model Centre pages the weathered version is shown with marker lights, I’m finding it rather confusing with 3 different suppliers, Kernow, Model Rail and Heljan doing different versions, 97654 in yellow livery is the one shown with marker lights.

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I think this may be a model I need to go and check the ones over before buying, 2 of the pictures on the Kernow site the front step running plate grab hand rail is broken off on one side, the weathering varies a lot and then there's the issue with the bonnet not clipping correctly to the running plate also some of the cab steps look to be at strange angles on some models.

Edited by bubbles2
better explanation of broken item.
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On 23/03/2023 at 23:14, zoomer1979 said:

Mine is listed as arriving tomorrow 😃. Gone for 654 weathered as it was once hauled up to Scotland for a short while.

Anybody looked at sound options yet? Legomanbiffo is out of stock. I've listened to the Digitrains video and it sounds good, but it's talking about gears. The 165DE doesn't have gears, it's a traction motor. The mechanical 165DS will have gears, is this what they recorded?

Neil.


Think there’s a DE 0-4-0 at SVR which might be better…

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2 hours ago, bubbles2 said:

I think this may be a model I need to go and check the ones over before buying, 2 of the pictures on the Kernow site the front step running plate grab hand rail is broken off on one side, the weathering varies a lot and then there's the issue with the bonnet not clipping correctly to the running plate also some of the cab steps look to be at strange angles on some models.

 

I must admit I'd thought the same thing about the weathering so I went for a clean one I could weather myself. The two yellow weathered ones in the pictures are either multiple different models with different amount of paint on each, or they took one round of pictures and decided it needed a bit more and gave it another blast. My weathering job might not be quite so precise, but I like to know what I'm getting.

 

On another note - can anyone recommend a Next18 decoder? Not sure I've bought one of these before.

Rich

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