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Hornby A2/2 and A2/3 (2020 Range)


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41 minutes ago, landscapes said:

Hi Peter

 

You have done a superb job to the paintwork to your three Hornby A2/3’s, a massive improvement.

 

In you earlier post you mention painting them using Humbrol 104, according to Humbrol’s paint chart that’s a shade of Blue?

 

Although you did say it was 30 years old.

 

Great work, do you dilute the paint to a wash consistency?

 

I have done a similar job but my A2/3 was changed from 60523 Sun Castle to 60519 Honeyway being a Haymarket Pacific.

 

Regards

 

David

Hi David,

                Thank you for the kind remarks! Way back in the day Humbrol did a range of Railway Colours, which was quite comprehensive. Straight from the tin and well-stirred, they were beautiful brushing enamels, and 104 was BR loco green. Around 30 years ago, or it may be a little longer, I was tipped off that a small model shop in Perth was closing so I nipped in one lunchtime and bought about seven tins of 104. My only regret is that I didn't also buy carriage carmine and maroon. All four of the A2/3s were painted using the same tin, which hopefully will also finish my to do 60519, which should be the last.

My inspiration came from you as you remarked how easily the chimneys could be removed to mix.n.match, hence I could have a rimless on my 60505, and a rimmed on 60517. It just grew from there!

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

Edited by 45568
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1 hour ago, 45568 said:

Hi David,

                Thank you for the kind remarks! Way back in the day Humbrol did a range of Railway Colours, which was quite comprehensive. Straight from the tin and well-stirred, they were beautiful brushing enamels, and 104 was BR loco green. Around 30 years ago, or it may be a little longer, I was tipped off that a small model shop in Perth was closing so I nipped in one lunchtime and bought about seven tins of 104. My only regret is that I didn't also buy carriage carmine and maroon. All four of the A2/3s were painted using the same tin, which hopefully will also finish my to do 60519, which should be the last.

My inspiration came from you as you remarked how easily the chimneys could be removed to mix.n.match, hence I could have a rimless on my 60505, and a rimmed on 60517. It just grew from there!

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

Hi Peter

 

Thank you as well for your reply.

 

This is my version of 60519 Honeyway, I just swopped the two double chimneys over from the donor loco 60523 and A2/2 60501.

 

I enclose a photo of them both together.

 

Regards

 

David

60519_IMG_2298B_edited-1.jpg

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1 hour ago, landscapes said:

Hi Peter

 

Thank you as well for your reply.

 

This is my version of 60519 Honeyway, I just swopped the two double chimneys over from the donor loco 60523 and A2/2 60501.

 

I enclose a photo of them both together.

 

Regards

 

David

60519_IMG_2298B_edited-1.jpg

@landscapesmust confess your picture made me do a double take. I thought it was the real thing - the track in the foreground is especially convincing. Lovely work.

Steve

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4 hours ago, sjp23480 said:

@landscapesmust confess your picture made me do a double take. I thought it was the real thing - the track in the foreground is especially convincing. Lovely work.

Steve

Hi Steve

 

Thank you for your kind comments, the camera does most of the work.

 

Regards

 

David

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On 28/03/2023 at 11:28, John Tomlinson said:

 

Being a BR modeller, of somewhat elastic period, I did wonder about using transfer remover and then trying to apply an early BR number and lettering to the apple green "Chamoissaire".

 

If that ends up as a complete Horlicks I can then just respray into BR green, and add it to the BR Pacific fleet!

 

John.

 

Finding myself in the northwest last week, and close to the Mersey, I thought it would have been remiss not to pop into Hattons for one of the bargain A2/3's, emerging with LNER liveried Chamoissaire.

 

It has just come out of our standard seven day quarantine, and had a test run on the layout.

 

Like my BR Steady Aim, an ebay bargain, it runs very smoothly and quietly in both directions with no hint of any binding. (I suppose we expect this nowadays). The seam on the top of the boiler isn't that great, and also like Steady Aim the water scoop under the tender is set low enough to catch points with a thud as it passes over. On both a bit of careful but firm finger pressure was enough to dislodge the weak glue used by the factory, to detach the scoop, either for a bit of filing and resetting, or I suspect in my case not bothering as it isn't really visible.

 

Pondering the renumbering and relettering to early BR, however I don't think that the HMRS sheet has the early curly "6" needed for the number, so another source will be needed. Then again, it looks quite pretty as it is! Even more so when I add all the bits and some etched plates. Hmmm.

 

John.

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  • 1 month later...
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Is it worth picking one or two of these up? im currently expanding my collection of LNER Express Locomotives and was wondering if they are a good buy? the examples id probrably want to get are the LNER livery 500 Edward Thompson and 514 Chamoissaire

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4 hours ago, Human8984 said:

Is it worth picking one or two of these up? im currently expanding my collection of LNER Express Locomotives and was wondering if they are a good buy? the examples id probrably want to get are the LNER livery 500 Edward Thompson and 514 Chamoissaire

At reduced prices probably yes but wouldn’t pay the full £180+ prices for the current batch based on the many issues upthread plus rendition of both LNER and BR liveries.  

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15 hours ago, Human8984 said:

Is it worth picking one or two of these up? im currently expanding my collection of LNER Express Locomotives and was wondering if they are a good buy? the examples id probrably want to get are the LNER livery 500 Edward Thompson and 514 Chamoissaire

 

Yes, seconding the prices. Just take note:

- reversing lever may be fragile, be careful when handling

- if the third set of sandpipes are missing to contact Hornby over it, they were quite helpful

- if you are unlucky and small bits fall off they can be reattached with glue, no issue

They do run nice and quietly.

Enjoy yours :)

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Apart from the shade of green on my LNER one I really like them. They run smoothly and pull straight without waddling. They are powerful, and they are have good detail with correct variations between versions. There was a cosmetic assembly fault on my first one but that was resolved. I have bought 2 more to renumber now that they are cheap at Hattons. 

 

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6 hours ago, Dominion said:

Apart from the shade of green on my LNER one I really like them. They run smoothly and pull straight without waddling. They are powerful, and they are have good detail with correct variations between versions. There was a cosmetic assembly fault on my first one but that was resolved. I have bought 2 more to renumber now that they are cheap at Hattons. 

 

Agree with all of that, I’m very happy with my Steady Aim - the green’s a bit washed out but otherwise it’s a great model for us Thompson fans

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1 hour ago, Human8984 said:

What would people suggest for removing the numbers from the loco sides? i dont fancy repainting them as the Hornby LNER Green would be a right pain to match paint to. 

 

Usually covered about once every two months or so in the magazines. Probably something in the "painting" section of the forum.

 

But generally just use a tiny bit of T Cut on a cotton bud or even use a wooden cocktail stick very gently. Some suggest using very fine emery paper.

 

But practice on something else first rather than your brand new £100 plus model.

 

 

Jason

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I use a Swann Morton No 10 blade always a new one.

 

Gentley stroke across the area until the number etc has been removed . Avoid touching/scraping  the underlying paint as much as possible. Lightly rub over with very fine wet and dry if then needed. Finish/seal with matt varnish , I use a aerosol masking off any other panels first.

 

I tried T Cut once on a Hornby Garter Blue A4 which turned the base colour paint Green , never again for me.

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8 minutes ago, micklner said:

I tried T Cut once on a Hornby Garter Blue A4 which turned the base colour paint Green , never again for me.

Regarding TCut... Yeah, ive tried t cut on black paint before and it didnt quite work well. Il try your blade idea on another engine i need renumbering as i wont be getting the A2 until months end. Thanks for the tip

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2 hours ago, Human8984 said:

What would people suggest for removing the numbers from the loco sides? i dont fancy repainting them as the Hornby LNER Green would be a right pain to match paint to. 

Some use a broken off cocktail stick. That might be  starting point before moving to the blade

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6 hours ago, Human8984 said:

What would people suggest for removing the numbers from the loco sides? i dont fancy repainting them as the Hornby LNER Green would be a right pain to match paint to. 

Hi

 

Gently rub the area with a fibre glass pen.

 

David

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11 minutes ago, landscapes said:

Hi

 

Gently rub the area with a fibre glass pen.

 

David

Not a good idea you have zero control as where the rubbing (which is/can be  very abrasive) is either removing the numbering or the backing paint . IMHO.

If you used a Fibreglass pen to remove the numbers in the above Photo of the A3 Cab layout , there is a very good chance you would also destroy the Cab lining as well at the same time. Not a good idea.

Edited by micklner
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Another approach I have used is the application of Micro Sol "Red" solution - this is designed to soften decals so that they conform to surface imperfections, for example, rivet heads. If this is applied very carefully to the loco number and then stroked with a stiff brush the decals can be removed. A second application may be required and keep it away from lining.

 

I discovered this during my early use of Micro Sol were I ruined what I had already applied.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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5 hours ago, NZRedBaron said:

This is just me, but I've found success in using nail polish remover; granted, it does leave a bit of a shiny spot, but that can be dealt with.

I don't mind the shiny spot, helps with adding new decals. 

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17 hours ago, 30368 said:

Another approach I have used is the application of Micro Sol "Red" solution - this is designed to soften decals so that they conform to surface imperfections, for example, rivet heads. If this is applied very carefully to the loco number and then stroked with a stiff brush the decals can be removed. A second application may be required and keep it away from lining.

 

I discovered this during my early use of Micro Sol were I ruined what I had already applied.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

DecalFix from humbrol is another good product for this. Has always worked well for me. 

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  • 7 months later...

I very much like Hornby's A2 with a couple of reservations; the green and the boiler lining which let's be honest looks a bit sh***e. 😉

That said, I've managed to lift the  rather lacklustre green with some effects and tonight I have used Fox Transfers lining on the boiler.

Shown here halfway through the job.

Phone cameras rarely do full justice but having finished the job since I took this, I can say categorically that this single act has reduced any hint of "meh" that had been hanging around this model and has truly lifted it from my personal perspective.

 

Davy.

IMG_20240102_003529.jpg

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8 hours ago, Mad McCann said:

I very much like Hornby's A2 with a couple of reservations; the green and the boiler lining which let's be honest looks a bit sh***e. 😉

That said, I've managed to lift the  rather lacklustre green with some effects and tonight I have used Fox Transfers lining on the boiler.

Shown here halfway through the job.

Phone cameras rarely do full justice but having finished the job since I took this, I can say categorically that this single act has reduced any hint of "meh" that had been hanging around this model and has truly lifted it from my personal perspective.

 

Davy.

IMG_20240102_003529.jpg

A nice job. I accept that a properly weathered loco is more realistic but I prefer pristine. I can tolerate the lining but I do wish Hornby would get to grips with the paint. Heaven knows, they’ve been knocking out poor finishes for years now and improvement is slow. I’d also like Hornby to sort out the trailing wheels, Bachmann V2 style. With SK gone, perhaps our chance of an A2/1 has gone.

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