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Bachmann announce NEW Class 47


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I am so getting Ealing Broadway from that Richard , well done !

Its a shame these old bangers didn’t hang around old oak longer , being washed away with a tidal wave of 165 units - corresponds to my not modelling period, but rather tempted to do something with one of these as Bachmann have it spot on 

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20 hours ago, Tiddles47 said:

Added the detail on my new 47711…. Fantastic model. But a bit fiddly to put on and the instructions dont cater for all types inc this 1. 

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Hi,

Have you fitted the supplied name plates? I'm not sure I'll bother as the factory painted on one's look good enough for me. I have a Hornby Class 87 which was supplied with seperate plates but also had painted plates. I'm pretty sure the manual suggested blu tack but I've always fitted them with a small strip of double sided tape cut to size.

 

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58 minutes ago, APT Fan said:

 

Hi,

Have you fitted the supplied name plates? I'm not sure I'll bother as the factory painted on one's look good enough for me. I have a Hornby Class 87 which was supplied with seperate plates but also had painted plates. I'm pretty sure the manual suggested blu tack but I've always fitted them with a small strip of double sided tape cut to size.

 

Yes i have. I used a dab of super glue. 

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I’ve always used matt varnish for fitting nameplates. There is a risk with superglue either accidentally getting onto the body side or seeping out from under the plate when offered up the the body side. Matt varnish also gives some time to check and correct final positioning if required. 
Regards. 
Bill. 

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13 hours ago, billywhizz said:

I’ve always used matt varnish for fitting nameplates. There is a risk with superglue either accidentally getting onto the body side or seeping out from under the plate when offered up the the body side. Matt varnish also gives some time to check and correct final positioning if required. 
Regards. 
Bill. 

 

Yes, matt acrylic varnish is what I use. Gloss acrylic varnish also gets used to stick in flush glazing.

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6 minutes ago, 97406 said:

 

Yes, matt acrylic varnish is what I use. Gloss acrylic varnish also gets used to stick in flush glazing.

Thinly applied 'Glue and Glaze' for me. Can be peeled off if (when in my case!) it goes wrong and leaves no marks. 

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1 hour ago, Roy Langridge said:

I am with @APT Fan in using double sided tape. Can be made very neat and makes the plates removeable if ever needed.


Roy

 

With glueing if you get it wrong using too much glue or in the wrong place it would be very easy to make a mess of a very nice and expensive model. Also it is not a foolproof method, I bought a very nice class 56 with glued on nameplates, one of which had fallen off! It had left quite a nasty mess behind which I had to make good to ensure that the replacement plate would sit square and flat. The double sided tape is very thin and flat providing a good and even finish which I doubt you'd get using something like blu tack.   

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1 hour ago, APT Fan said:

The double sided tape is very thin and flat providing a good and even finish which I doubt you'd get using something like blu tack.

 

Do you have any recommendations on a particular type/brand which you've found to work well in 00 at all please @APT Fan?

Edited by curlypaws
Added name mention.
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10 hours ago, curlypaws said:

 

Do you have any recommendations on a particular type/brand which you've found to work well in 00 at all please @APT Fan?

 

The tape i have is branded 'Concordia'. I'm pretty sure I bought it from one of the local discount stores like Home&Bargain etc.

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One the subject of nameplates such as the one's supplied with 47 711, is there a technique to removing them from the stamp? I've tried craft knives and wire cutters but always seem to introduce an element of distortion due to them being so thin.

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7 hours ago, BigDee said:

This arrived yesterday from Rails, forgot I’d ordered it…

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Remarkable paint job and decals. Outstanding work from Bachmann again! I've left my 47 on my work desk and keep noticing extra bits of detail whilst I catch a glimpse of it whilst I'm working.

Edited by APT Fan
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22 minutes ago, APT Fan said:

One the subject of nameplates such as the one's supplied with 47 711, is there a technique to removing them from the stamp? I've tried craft knives and wire cutters but always seem to introduce an element of distortion due to them being so thin.

I use Xuron cutters which are really good.

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8 hours ago, sjp23480 said:

 Very sharp scissors are also useful, I also use an old sharpened chisel resting the plates on a hard, smooth (metal) surface

Another recommendation for scissors for cutting etches. I have a small very sharp pair from Hobbycraft, meant for cutting thread so found in the sewing section when the Mrs was looking at cross stitch stuff.

 

Jo

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Another suggestion, instead of cutting the part straight out of the frame, first of all cut the frame either side of the attachment point.  This releases the pressure on the part and reduces the risk of distortion.

 

This also works well with plastic parts and reduces the tenancy for parts to spring off in any direction.

 

Roddy

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Just got my Class 47 deluxe from TMC. It really is impressive. A huge step up from second hand ebay Heljan model from a few years ago.

In saying that I have yet to remove it from its package as I don’t want to get it dirty. So take my glowing report with a pinch of salt🙃

 

EDIT: Finally took it out of the box and put it on the rails.  Very impressive.

Edited by wairoa
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  • 2 weeks later...

So today I received 47 435 no doubt a really lovely model but at nearly £300 it is very expensive and that's just the sound model not the deluxe version. The photo shows it alongside my 30 year old Lima model, I'm not going to put any of the detailing pack on yet. I don't think the lima model stands up too badly really always seemed like one of Lima's better models.

 

Originally I wasn't going to buy it but then I thought it may be a while before there is another 47/4 in the colours suitable for my modelling period.

 

I dont know exactly when I bought my Lima 47 but it must be around 30 years ago, the one thing you can say about the Lima model is you can easily handle it without fear of bits falling off.

 

The original price is on the Lima box and doing an inflation calculator suggests that todays price should be around £85 to £100 which would make the price of Hornby's Railroad 47 seem about right.

 

So without sound the Bachmann model is around twice as much, Is it worth that well I guess so, but I have spent nearly £800 on  3 Bachmann Loco's with sound recently which does make it a very expensive hobby if you want the bells and whistle's of good detail, lighting and sound.

 

I had a brief play on the limited test track I have currently, first loco I have where you can turn the rear lights off independently which is good, the loco's sounds good when accelerating away, but not entirely convinced it sounds fully right on tick over I will have to have another listen.

 

 

 

 

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As well as looks and lighting, the latest 47s will haul way more and run smoother than any Lima in my experience - this may or may not be a clincher depending on your layout (as someone who runs scale

length trains it is important to me as the Limas generally couldn’t ). Plus the detailing is loco specific as opposed to the Lima one size fits all. I agree the general shape of Lima 47 was good but  to add lights and details to bring up to standard starts to push price close to Bach 47 and still haven’t resolved the haulage or running issues.  Now the old Bach 47 was pretty good and prices do seem to be softening on some versions…

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I still prefer the front-of-cab footsteps on the old Lima model to the new Bachmann one. There must be something wrong with me, I suppose, but just having separately fitted footsteps in order to have that as a selling point, when molding them on actually looks better, seems daft.

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9 hours ago, Ian J. said:

I still prefer the front-of-cab footsteps on the old Lima model to the new Bachmann one. There must be something wrong with me, I suppose, but just having separately fitted footsteps in order to have that as a selling point, when molding them on actually looks better, seems daft.

I would agree with you it doesn’t look great and together with snowploughs presents the disappointing areas of new model for me (and old one too).  Not sure it’s fact that separate parts as how they’ve done it with small vertical slots which jar. Vi had separate parts too and avoided this resulting in something that jarred less for me.

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The Lima 47 isnt bad for its time. (it wasnt one size fits all either they had at least 4 different front ends), however if you strayed out of that you fell fast (47/7 for example).

 

Today I still have a dozen or so, more for memories and specific liveries that arent easiest to find on newer models. Though they are on newer chassis now. 
I think the Lima 20/31/37/47/59/66/87/92/156 will live long into the future as the bargain point of the hobby.

 

Vitrains, Bachmann 47’s I find to have very few issues and ive plenty of them. Therein is the rub… why trade in my older ones, especially when ive a few even older ones still ?

 

In the past i’d happily trade off my older models in anticipation of something new at a similar price. Now I see the new price of the new tooling, and notice my older ones are increasing in value to keep pace with it… complete opposite of the past.

Coupled with that all my 47’s except Heljans original one, all sit nicely together, for a DC Diehard like myself… theres little in it for me.

 

So instead I maintain status quo. I have 1 new Bachmann 47, and 1 pending. Ive none of Heljans next 47 on order. With the 37’s its really only 37/6 and DRS era 37/4.. stuffing the gaps. With 02/11/86/87/90/91/92 and 45/1 and 59 all on the way or here in 2022 i’m really not sure what 2023 has to offer.


I’m not feeling the incentive or motivation to upgrade.

This tooling duplication war isn't doing much for me…

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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