Soldering woes.

[westernfan]

I need to replace the pick-up wire on a Tri-ang Hornby Hall, but  when attempting to solder the wire from the motor to the new pick-up the solder won't affix to it; it just runs onto the soldering iron. I have used a soldering iron before, (track connections, etc. and built a oo gauge child's swing from paper clips soldered together), and have never had any problems, but this has me baffled. What am I doing wrong?

[Barclay]

Cleanliness is usually the answer - if the wire is old and has lost its shine the solder may not bind to it. 

[Jeff Smith]

You need to tin both the wire and the new pick-up first.  Multi-core solder should work but you may have to resort to a liquid flux.  Then bring the two together on the iron, no extra solder should be necessary.  Make sure the iron is really hot and be quick......

[JeremyC]

It maybe that the old wire has become contaminated with oil or grease over the years so the solder won't 'take' to it. If you have some I suggest fitting a new length of wire as well.

[melmerby]

Flux is the key with certain wire when it has aged,

I always have some liquid flux for those occasions.

I've got some Carrs "Red" flux for non ferrous metals. It comes in 50ml plastic bottles. (It also works reasonably well on ferrous metals. e.g. steel wire)

[westernfan]

Thanks to all who replied.

The replacement pick-up wire is brand new and I tried using a flux paste. Even trying to tin the pick-up wire the solder won't "stick." Tinning the wire from the motor presents np problems. I'll just have to persevere.

[micklner]

Use multicore solder resin flux therin

[smokebox]

Try scraping the new wire with a knife or emery paper to get down to fresh clean metal, just in case it has some sort of coating on it.

 

[Bucoops]

Is your solder lead free? If so, get hold of some real stuff - hobby holidays for example sell it.

[Albie the plumber]

1 hour ago, westernfan said:

Thanks to all who replied.

The replacement pick-up wire is brand new and I tried using a flux paste. Even trying to tin the pick-up wire the solder won't "stick." Tinning the wire from the motor presents np problems. I'll just have to persevere.

The pick up may have tarnished over the years , if i try to solder onto tarnished copper pipe , the solder simply will not take ,

even with ' self cleaning flux ' 

 For copper pipe , i use wire wool but fine emery cloth will do the trick here .

[andyman7]

The only other thing I can add is trying to ensure you are getting sufficient heat to the area being soldered

[55020]

I'm with Bucoops, check it isn't lead free solder.  It simply doesn't work!

[meil]

Are you sure the wire you are trying to solder is copper? If it's Aluminium it won't solder.

Edited December 7, 2023 by meil

[Jeff Smith]

12 minutes ago, 55020 said:

I'm with Bucoops, check it isn't lead free solder.  It simply doesn't work!

You'd better hope it works, it's used extensively in aerospace applications.......

[DCB]

I wonder if the "New" pick up wire is the same spec as the old one.  Even with old stock or recovered spring pick ups I find they are very difficult to solder, carefully melting the original solder and reusing it seems to work best, getting some old solder helps...as its melting point is less than lead free.  There is no need to unsolder the Triang spring wire when stripping a Hall as the whole spring assembly passes through the gear aperture in the chassis.   It's the similar Hornby Dublo / Wrenn assembly where the wire passes through a small hole which requires the  spring pick up to be unsoldered / soldered when replacing the pickup

[55020]

9 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

You'd better hope it works, it's used extensively in aerospace applications.......

 

Yeah I probably should have said that I can't get lead free solder to work anywhere nearly as well as solder with a bit of plumbum added. 

 

I do need to be careful not to upset the helicopter gods, because everyone knows helicopters don't fly because of science.  😉😂😂

 

 

Steve

[melmerby]

10 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

You'd better hope it works, it's used extensively in aerospace applications.......

It's used extensively in industry, full stop. It's also compulsory on potable water supplies.

However it's used on brand new components in a controlled way, not at home using a 25W iron on old wire.

 

It isn't as good as leaded solder for general use.

[melmerby]

11 hours ago, meil said:

Are you sure the wire you are trying to solder is copper? If it's Aluminium it won't solder.

You can get aluminium solder..........

Some components use iron wire

[meil]

11 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

You'd better hope it works, it's used extensively in aerospace applications.......

Quite the opposite - aerospace uses Lead solder because of the risk of "Tin Whiskers" arising from Lead-free solder.

[Bucoops]

13 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

You'd better hope it works, it's used extensively in aerospace applications.......

 

 

I was working for a selective soldering company at the time it was becoming a thing. Yes it works, but boy did we have to do a LOT of work to get it to work reliably. I think a fair few new expletives were invented during that time.

 

Give me leaded every time.

[Jeff Smith]

1 hour ago, meil said:

Quite the opposite - aerospace uses Lead solder because of the risk of "Tin Whiskers" arising from Lead-free solder.

Yes, you are right, I got it wrong earlier.

[melmerby]

3 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

Yes, you are right, I got it wrong earlier.

There is a lot of angst, especially in the US Aviation and Defence sectors, both of which are currently leaded solder users but are finding it hard to find electronics and components that still contain lead.

This means the electronic equipment being used by them is becoming outdated as most commercial producers are now lead free.

A lot of $$$$ are being spent finding a way to meet their requirements with lead free solder.

Edited December 8, 2023 by melmerby

[melmerby]

3 hours ago, meil said:

Quite the opposite - aerospace uses Lead solder because of the risk of "Tin Whiskers" arising from Lead-free solder.

[brossard]

Don't know what state the soldering iron tip is in.  Most soldering irons I see have black tips.  This won't transfer heat well.  Clean the tip if you can but probably better to get a new one.  Use brass wool to keep the tip clean going forward.

 

John

[Right Away]

Sal Ammoniac is excellent for restoring oxidised and dirty soldering iron bits.

Do take note of instructions; it’s not the most pleasant of products but used with care and patience, can bring the bits up like new.

 

Note: When your bits have been clean and tinned, always ensure you tin them after use, before switching off to ensure they’re ready for immediate use next time.