Judith Edge kits

[Dava]

That 48DS looks extremely neat. I  like  the compensating suspension.

 

There is a thread of detailed photos which builders may find helpful here

 

 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112221-the-ruston-48ds-class-a-rivet-counters-guide

 

Dava

[MJI]

Will you be doing a build thread.

 

Probably after a thread on a Land Rover forum about my cars hydraulic anti roll bars.

 

It is currently drinking a £15 bottle of hydraulic fluid every month and getting worse.

 

Same reason no Warley this year. Don't want to risk the pump.

Got to strip off lots of bits and replace pipes.

 

Everything is scarey until you try it.

 

And I can't even get my car in my garage due to being full of model railway.(it would not fit anyway, car too tall)

[MJI]

I have found a lovely picture of PWM650 at Horton Road, recent Rail Blue.

 

Some great pics on this persons page.

 

http://www.fluidr.com/photos/12a_kingmoor_klickr/sets/72157627609732099

 

I am going to have to contact him.

[Michael Edge]

Back to the 7mm RH 165

Cab and engine casing sides fitted, the original instructions suggested fitting the casing doors later but I'm coming round to the view that they are easier fitted to the sides first.

In this kit the radiator casing is built up as a separate sub assembly, makes it easier to round off the corners and fit the step into the side.

Some of the controls inside the cab are included, these were originally taken from the arrangement on PWM650 and non brake fitted DMs may well be different.

I've fitted the supports to the footplate this time, rather than the frames as usual.

 

[MJI]

Received all OK thankyou

[MJI]

Quick question Michael.

 

Do I need a frame jig?

 

What is the best way to remove parts from the etch?

 

What is a good tool for doing the rivets?

 

Thanks

 

Martin

Edited November 12, 2016 by MJI

[Michael Edge]

You don't need a frame jig, it's quite easy to assemble. I have been using the Poppy's Woodtech jig recently but these will not take all three axles of this loco at the same time. I have the 8 coupled box and would use this to set the outer axles.

All our frets are specifically designed to be cut out with tinsnips (or heavy scissors if you don't have any). All the tags are placed so as to be accessible, you will progressively dismember the fret as you cut the parts out.

Thee are a number of riveting tools on the market, I use a Metalsmith one and have recently acquired a GW models one. In the absence of a specific tool you can use a hard steel pin - rest the parts on a relatively hard surface (not too hard though) such as aluminium and tap with a hammer.

[Michael Edge]

More work on the 7mm RH 165 0-6-0 yesterday.

Cab roof now soldered on from below, access to the inside of the cab from now on will be through the hole in the bottom.

view from above, now for the engine casing top - which is the most difficult part of the whole build

This is the etch for the top, half etched to leave rivets, the plate joints have to be scribed on first

The large radius bend is made first, by hand over a suitably sized piece of tube, this is 1 3/8" copper tube but the diameter is not critical

The corner bends are more difficult, started by hand round 3/16" bar in this case. The bend is centred on the handrail pillar holes, the metal worked bit by bit with finger pressure. In kits with full thickness casings half etched lines inside can be used for these bends but in this case it's not possible.

Now the other side, neither side has been fully bent yet.

I do the final part of the bend in a vice, this one has extended jaws for this sort of work. Having started the bend it's quite easy to keep the bar in while tightening the vice.

Check fit both sides, the bend can be moved a little if necessary. Note that the metal has not been annealed for this operation, I might have done for full thickness but for half etch it makes the brass too soft.

Check the fit on a flat surface, this is critical, the engine casing is most of the torsional stiffness of the model. If it isn't flat and true it will easily pull everything else out of shape when bolted up.

From underneath a tack joint is made at each corner

Then checked again on the flat before completing all the joints

All back together again and parked on the test track for now. I'll leave it for a while now, no wheels at the moment so no more to do below the footplate and I'll have wait for the next test etch to get the radiator mesh.

This is what happens when you go from 9mm scale to 7mm scale in the same thickness of metal! I need to adjust the width of the mesh bars.

[MJI]

You don't need a frame jig, it's quite easy to assemble. I have been using the Poppy's Woodtech jig recently but these will not take all three axles of this loco at the same time. I have the 8 coupled box and would use this to set the outer axles.

All our frets are specifically designed to be cut out with tinsnips (or heavy scissors if you don't have any). All the tags are placed so as to be accessible, you will progressively dismember the fret as you cut the parts out.

Thee are a number of riveting tools on the market, I use a Metalsmith one and have recently acquired a GW models one. In the absence of a specific tool you can use a hard steel pin - rest the parts on a relatively hard surface (not too hard though) such as aluminium and tap with a hammer.

 

 

I have used a compass needle before, and sissors but this was thicker brass..

 

Managed 2 chassis before so I should be fine.

 

Thanks

 

Martin

[JeffP]

Quick question Michael.

 

Do I need a frame jig?

 

What is the best way to remove parts from the etch?

 

What is a good tool for doing the rivets?

 

Thanks

 

Martin

I use embroidery scissors to cut parts from the fret, they have strong blades and are relatively cheap. David Parkins told me about them, (MMP owner).

 

Michael: I was mystified by that last photo, and comment.

Then I realised that top right should be the radiator mesh....

Edited November 12, 2016 by JeffP

[MJI]

Compas needle works fine. Had to use a large modelling knife and file as my wife was around and would not like me borrowing her scissors!!!!

[Michael Edge]

I use embroidery scissors to cut parts from the fret, they have strong blades and are relatively cheap. David Parkins told me about them, (MMP owner).

 

Michael: I was mystified by that last photo, and comment.

Then I realised that top right should be the radiator mesh....

Yes, you had to look closely. This is a very fine mesh and I'm pushing the limits of etching, bearing in mind that everything goes on one sheet to keep costs down and avoid the necessity of ordering in batches - one of the reasons why we can keep everything in production.

[MJI]

I am going to photo my build but do not rush me, it won't get finished before Christmas

[Horsetan]

I am going to photo my build but do not rush me, it won't get finished before Christmas

You don't have to state which year, either!

[Mark Saunders]

You don't have to state which year, either!

Does this apply to your 07 kit?

 

Mark

[Horsetan]

Does this apply to your 07 kit?

Naturally! There are one or two things I want to do to the chassis, and evil plans don't make themselves.......

[auld_boot]

Hi Michael,

I promise you won't be held to it as a commitment, but I'm trying to plan my Christmas present list so is the 7mm PWM650 likely to be available this side of Christmas?

[Michael Edge]

No, it's not that near. Next 7mm kit is the 88DS which we should have ready for Manchester.

[Michael Edge]

I'll have all the locos I'm working on at the moment (and some more) on my demonstration at Warley this weekend - stand A59, kit design and construction. Come along and have a chat about techniques and future plans.

[decauville1126]

I'll have all the locos I'm working on at the moment (and some more) on my demonstration at Warley this weekend - stand A59, kit design and construction. Come along and have a chat about techniques and future plans.

Is there a tentative release date for the 7mm 48DS - just need to know when to start saving the pennies ........

[MJI]

I would go but wrong side of pay day for me, then the parking costs and a car leaking £18 a litre hydraulic fluid.

 

I blew this years Warley money on a brass loco kit instead!

[Michael Edge]

Is there a tentative release date for the 7mm 48DS - just need to know when to start saving the pennies ........

No date but it should be early next year.

[Blandford1969]

Thanks for taking the time to explain where you were on some things (very interesting) I will be in touch on the B16 fret as may have a couple.

 

Duncan

[Ruston]

More work on the 7mm RH 165 0-6-0 yesterday.

view from above, now for the engine casing top - which is the most difficult part of the whole build

WP_20161111_15_10_54_Pro.jpg

This is the etch for the top, half etched to leave rivets, the plate joints have to be scribed on first

WP_20161111_15_13_16_Pro.jpg

The large radius bend is made first, by hand over a suitably sized piece of tube, this is 1 3/8" copper tube but the diameter is not critical

WP_20161111_15_16_12_Pro.jpg

The corner bends are more difficult, started by hand round 3/16" bar in this case. The bend is centred on the handrail pillar holes, the metal worked bit by bit with finger pressure. In kits with full thickness casings half etched lines inside can be used for these bends but in this case it's not possible.

WP_20161111_15_17_26_Pro.jpg

Now the other side, neither side has been fully bent yet.

WP_20161111_15_20_04_Pro.jpg

I do the final part of the bend in a vice, this one has extended jaws for this sort of work. Having started the bend it's quite easy to keep the bar in while tightening the vice.

WP_20161111_15_21_21_Pro.jpg

Check fit both sides, the bend can be moved a little if necessary. Note that the metal has not been annealed for this operation, I might have done for full thickness but for half etch it makes the brass too soft.

I'm currently building a 7mm 0-4-0 165 Ruston and have got to this part. Putting the bends in the top cover of the bonnet has stopped me in my tracks. If I mess this up then the whole thing is scrap. I was wondering if annealing it would help? Also, I don't have any of those bars to put in a vice and bend the bonnet around to get the correct radius of curve. If I anneal it and then solder one edge to the bonnet sides will it just follow the curve of the formers, or will it just buckle?

[Michael Edge]

I wouldn't anneal this casing top since it's half etched - it would probably bend a lot where you don't want it to. If you do what you have suggested it might follow the shape at each end but almost certainly not in the middle where it will dip. The first large radius curve puts a lot of stiffness into it, as I have tried to show form the corner bends a little at a time, checking the fit as you go.