Great British Locomotives

[D1011]

hi does anyone know when the western ,king and hst pc are due out please only 3 I want to complete my wr shed

[Smiffy2]

Did the 'swapsies' thread happen (had a quick look, couldn't see an obvious one...)

 

I've currently got the GW 2800, Schools and the Bulleid Light Pacific going spare - all untouched on their plinths in the plastic 'box', but without the magazine. The Compound, T9 and GW 4500 will aso be spare in a similar fashion when they arrive.

 

 

I'll be wanting Peaks, when they come out.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87080-gbl-swapsies/

[Smiffy2]

hi does anyone know when the western ,king and hst pc are due out please only 3 I want to complete my wr shed

See post #2143

 

In short - no-one knows.

[Smiffy2]

Cloggydog - I'll swap you a T9 for a Peak. I'll also swap you a WC for one if I can get an extra.

[rowanj]

I don't claim my method is any better or easier than TMZ06003 but I offer an alternative for those fitting Lima bogies to the GBL Deltic. I picked up a complete Lima Cl37 chassis for £20, I removed all the GBL model, leaving only the body shell. I then cut away the bogies and housings from the Lima chassis - basically cutting away the centre tanks/ weight which I discarded. After filing the sides of the supports holding the bogies, these were then force-fitted into the bodyshell, with a touch of Evostick used to give extra support. I then cut the GBL underframe to get the centre section with the tanks, etc.

This section reconnects to the body using a self-tapping screw, but it's a good idea to add some weight, in my case lead shot n the tanks. Even with traction tyres, Lima can be poor pullers, but mine handles 8 coaches ok, even on my far from level loft layout.

I used T-Cut to remove the name/numbers (as well as some other detail by accident) but I hope when it's renumbered/renamed a bit of judicious touching-up and weathering will hide my sins.

[69843]

I'm still disappointed it hasn't appeared here yet. I've a hankering for a W1, A4 under repair and some other ideas for that, then there's the 4-6-4 and BR Princess Coronations, 30926 Region with modified tender etc. all.....

[Jenny Emily]

WH Smiths in the centre of Bolton still have a single Castle as of lunchtime today.

[Wolf27]

Regarding swapsies, I potentially have a 2800, two 9F's, Black 5 and a Schools that would swap for another City and some Peaks.

 

Cheers

 

Shane

[Hayfield2]

Thank you for taking the time to explain how they get round the copyright issues, whilst I started to take an interest in these products thanks to Knobheads conversions, after reading a quite a few pages of replies, many of which are quite negative. I was hoping to see if there were any past or future releases that would interest me.

 

Secondly in a few other threads quite a few posters were quite opposed to even the idea of copying a part or parts even of long time out of production models. They seem to be unusually silent on these models which seem to be blatant copies of others (warts and all) products, in fact they seem to be very inferior copies in most cases.

 

I can however see the challenge of making the odd one work, or even rebuilding one which is no longer available. In many cases it may have been better to buy a second hand original and updating that.

 

But again thank you very much for enlightening me.

[46256]

These models exist (sorry to those having difficulty buying in their local shops) do we ignore them or buy them whilst they are available.

I for one have supported the big boys in the hobby and thank goodness for them. One side effect however has been the demise of the small cottage industry suppliers. I have hacked expensive locos to produce something different, but it wasnt a such hold your breath moment when dremel met black 5, recently.

 

As stated I fully appreciate the weathering mans reviews especially when accompanied by a comprehensive parts list that can both rectify and lift these models above their humble beginnings. My own view lets appreciate them whilst they are here....this blog alone has opened up a number of other topics posted by contributors which I have enjoyed and learned from.

[46256]

Just reread my last post......I wish to correct myself, it is a hold your breath moment regardless of cost when you start to deface an attractive model, albeit wishing to improve or adapt it....the GBL rendition of the black5 is an attractive model in its own right.

The statement about having supported the big boys is also misleading, as the recent purchase of a Heljan Garratt will show this iIs an ongoing commitment., rather than something that has ceased because of my buying this mag.

[emperordalek]

Reading the comments on paint/transfer removing fluids, I'll keep to using T-Cut I think for minor stuff and specific proprietary products for complete strip-jobs. I'd be absolutely gutted if I ruined a model through being a rush to get paint off, even if a GBL item! Looking forward to the Midland Compound tomorrow.

[Nighthawk]

Hi,

I'm sorry to jump in again and do this but my only motive is to hopefully prevent someone making an unfortunate mistake.

We have 'T Cut' mentioned for removal of graphics and indeed this is suggested frequently in magazines - very clearly by people who have no idea at all of what they are using and the potential risks involved.

'T Cut' is of course basically a fine cutting compound held in a liquid medium and will 'cut' away a graphic on a model just as it will cut away the paint surface on a car to remove ingrained dirt etc.

However the big problem is that T Cut (and other versions of the same) also contain Petroleum Distillates or in other words solvents of polystyrene - and so all the warnings and potential damage apply here also.

 

Now this might sound daft but a perfectly safe alternative very fine cutting paste is toothpaste - used on a cotton bud it will remove tampo printed graphics without any risks whatsoever. It does not work that fast which is an advantage and due to its very fine cutting action it will often polish the model surface and leave it perfectly ready to apply a new decal.

However always THOROUGHLY remove all traces of paste from the surface with damp tissue before attempting to apply a decal as any residue will effect the adhesion of the decal.

Hope this is of further interest.

Regards

I have definitely found toothpaste useful in clearing some fogging issues on model aircraft canopies, and would not put it in the 'daft' category, but I haven't tried it on tampo / decal removal.

[Nighthawk]

Hi,

Just thought i'd enlarge on my last post.

Please believe that what follows is serious and not me pulling your leg.

If using toothpaste dont use the one with the stripes - the substance in the stripes is somewhat 'slimey' and act as a lubricant thus reducing the desired cutting or abrasion.

Many pharmacies sell a 'traditional' toothpaste in a flatish tin - this is one of the most superb ultra fine cutting pastes that can be found. Used on a damp cotton bud it is almost impossible to beat for something like tampo removal.

Regards

So, looking to consensus: solvent (isopropyl alcohol or nail varnish remover) vs abrasive (toothpaste or T Cut)?

 

Reviewing the evidence, I am leaning towards a safe and gentle solvent approach (isopropyl alcohol) - although if one favours abrasion, then nothing stronger than toothpaste.

 

Agreed?

[emperordalek]

Mr Weathering Man - I am very much indebted to you for your recent advice. My mention of T-Cut came from something that i first read in "Detailing & Modifying Locomotives in OO Gauge Volume 1 British Diesel & Electric Locomotives 1955-2008" (phew not going to type that lot in again!) by the esteemed George Dent no less!! Just looked in the index and T-Cut's mentioned on eleven different pages in fact! I did try it on a Hornby 4F tender some years ago and appear to be have been fortunate from that. I will use Colgate from now on. Can I ask, do you have some qualification in industrial chemistry - you seem incredibly well informed on these matters - much to the benefit of everyone on this site. Thanks once again. Malcolm

[uax6]

You could also use Greygate products 'paste polishing number 5' or their 'plastic polish'. The PP5 is designed to cut bake bakelite to a shine (and was used by the GPo for that purpose) and is in effect a t-cut designed for plastic. The Plastic polish is designed for use on non-bakelite plastics. Not expensive to buy (unless you buy the PP5 as bakobrite!

 

Andy g

[69843]

Hi,

Excellent advice indeed - although toothpaste tends to be easier to find and smells fresher !!.

Regards

Well, if we get anything in Network South East, you can just paint it with the toothpaste.....!

[Il Grifone]

Hi,

Just thought i'd enlarge on my last post.

Please believe that what follows is serious and not me pulling your leg.

If using toothpaste dont use the one with the stripes - the substance in the stripes is somewhat 'slimey' and act as a lubricant thus reducing the desired cutting or abrasion.

Many pharmacies sell a 'traditional' toothpaste in a flatish tin - this is one of the most superb ultra fine cutting pastes that can be found. Used on a damp cotton bud it is almost impossible to beat for something like tampo removal.

Regards

 

Would that be the stuff that came as a solid slab in a tin many years ago? I haven't seen it for ages. Would the 'whitening' ones be suitable or is a product that removes tooth enamel too viscious?

 

The term 'white spirit' covers a multitude of sins. I have an old ancient bottle of Tesco own brand which is excellent and does not appear to attack plastic (at least in the years I've been using it). It's now nearly finished, but the formula has been changed at least once so I can't replace it. (I haven't found anything else as good either - like Johnson's 'Klear' - my bottle of that is getting low too....)

 

EDIT

Now off to purchase a MR compound (hopefully!) (I wanted two, but SWMBO said I can only have one - some nonsense about too many trains???? )

Edited August 20, 2014 by Il Grifone

[Hayfield2]

This thread has gone off on a very useful tangent and the advice from WeatheringMan and others is invaluable and deserves a topic of its own just to gain a wider audience it deserves

 

Thank you all for the top class advice

[PhilJ W]

I have often used T-cut for removing tampo printing, but mostly on diecast models. But I will in future use toothpaste as diecast models today have a considerably greater plastic content. The abrasive used in most toothpastes is finely powdered chalk, this is mixed with a vegetable oil to create the 'paste', the peppermint flavour is there to disguise the taste of the oil.

[darrel]

Just a thought as there has been some discussion regarding what will replace locomotion in the series. The HST appeared on the list about the same time as locomotion dropped off the list.

Just got my 3 Midland compounds. I will let weatheringman do the review as he is so much better at it than me. I will just give my first impressions. Very nice model. Lots of nice detail. Some of it some of them will benefit from picking out with brass paint. As will the cab interior. The coal in the tender will need replaced. As normal the wheels need repainting.

The piston rod is that correct? And I'm not sure if the Midland red is the right colour looks darker than the photos in the magazine.

One of my models has the smokebox door on the wrong way should be an easy fix.

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Had some at WHS in Wimborne - I got there before they'd even put them out.

 

Pictures straight out of the box.

 

Looks a fine model; well finished. Certainly captures the "Look" of a Midland Compound. I imagine this'll be popular with more causal readers as it's a "nice red engine".

 

Well worth it for the Fowler tender alone.

[84A]

Just picked up a model of the Compound myself. Its a nice model for the price, but nothing to write home about really. Various boiler details are annoyingly moulded - i'd hoped to re-use them on a damaged Bachmann example I have. The steps should work out great though, and the tender can be adapted and used (moulded coal looks rubbish on this model though and probably should be replaced).

 

I'm probably being a bit biased, as I think we were spoilt a bit by the Jinty, which in my view has been the best GBL loco to date. This model did have various separate boilder fittings, as well as other useful goodies. Its a shame the Compound hasn't followed suit in this regard, but like I say you can't really moan for the price. Based on Bachmann's recent price hike, you'd probably be looking to re-mortgage your house for a spare body moulding anyway, so its worth it for that alone.

Edited August 20, 2014 by 84A

[unravelled]

If anyone in South London is still looking for a Castle, there were at least 3 at Greenwich  W H Smith.

Unit 8 Bugsby's Way
Greenwich
London
SE7 7SR
Telephone: 020 82692264

Also at least one compound.

 

I was told that unsold Castles go back at the end of the week.

One of the interesting things I've noticed in a couple of WHS is that the current models  are not with the rest of the partworks, but in the impulse buy displays at the checkout queue.

 

Dave

[Blandford1969]

Do some Whsmiths have them available as my local one in Halesowen has just said its only pre order?