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SOS Junction. If anything happens would someone wake me up please..


Mallard60022
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I wonder if the heat has expanded the rails, such that one or several of the isolators are no longer isolating the common crossing or might be causing a short elsewhere on the layout. Is it possible to go back to DC and check for shorts? at least you wont fry any chips using DC.

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Well, another kick in the bo##okz last evening!

I fitted my replacement controller Panel and plugged in what I thought was my undamaged Controller and lo, it was fuc#ed as well. Geez, I am really pissed off now. No way of testing the DCC 80s until I get a working Controller. I might just play with the DC wires though to see if anything is happening. Thank goodness the majority of my loco's were not on the tracks because if they are also fuc#ed then I'm giving up this DCC lark despite my preferring it. I'd rather relay/modify the whole thing back to DC and create clever sectioning than have this sort of thing happen again.

I think I feel like the German footy team must feel at the moment (I am not laughing, I really am not laughing).

I will maybe have calmed down by this evening and a few glasses of very potent Cider.

P

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yes, I can hear the sniggering of those DC bods that are just itching to say " I told you so....................); yes, I know :triniti:

Edited by Mallard60022
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No one's laughing Phil ( well, maybe at the Germans), sh/t happens to us all at some point ( ah, sorry).

 

Hopefully you can resolve the problem fairly quickly & get on with making what's becoming a really good train set.

 

( Liking the idea of potent cider as well ).

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Well, another kick in the bo##okz last evening!

I fitted my replacement controller Panel and plugged in what I thought was my undamaged Controller and lo, it was fuc#ed as well. Geez, I am really pissed off now. No way of testing the DCC 80s until I get a working Controller. I might just play with the DC wires though to see if anything is happening. Thank goodness the majority of my loco's were not on the tracks because if they are also fuc#ed then I'm giving up this DCC lark despite my preferring it. I'd rather relay/modify the whole thing back to DC and create clever sectioning than have this sort of thing happen again.

I think I feel like the German footy team must feel at the moment (I am not laughing, I really am not laughing).

I will maybe have calmed down by this evening and a few glasses of very potent Cider.

P

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yes, I can hear the sniggering of those DC bods that are just itching to say " I told you so....................); yes, I know :triniti:

Phil, I don't think even the hardiest DC Bod would dare snigger or say; I told you so mate, this is a real bummer, and I hope you find the solution soon.

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I fitted my replacement controller Panel and plugged in what I thought was my undamaged Controller and lo, it was fuc#ed as well.

 

Unless your undamaged controller is another PowerCab it won't work.

 

Unlike the ProCab and simpler NCE handsets (Cab04, etc.) the PowerCab has the power control circuitry built in, the little panel with the LED (PCP panel) is just to connect the various wires to the right place.

 

If the spare controller IS a PowerCab and it still doesn't work - check that you have plugged it into the correct socket. Only one of the two has the power connections, the other one is for a second controller.

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Unless your undamaged controller is another PowerCab it won't work.

 

Unlike the ProCab and simpler NCE handsets (Cab04, etc.) the PowerCab has the power control circuitry built in, the little panel with the LED (PCP panel) is just to connect the various wires to the right place.

 

If the spare controller IS a PowerCab and it still doesn't work - check that you have plugged it into the correct socket. Only one of the two has the power connections, the other one is for a second controller.

It's an 06 and was used as the second hand Set on my other layout some years back. Thanks.

The good news is that the layout works with 12V DC (apart from a couple of Frog Juicy bits.

Bad news is, I've just missed the Lancaster coming over 36E's Kings park at about 200'; sound but no view....pah! It was off to LLandudno presumably and it would seem itwas also with the Hurricane and Spit; no wonder the noise was wonderful.

Back to scoffing Corgette Muffins now.

P

Edited by Mallard60022
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I wonder if the heat has expanded the rails, such that one or several of the isolators are no longer isolating the common crossing or might be causing a short elsewhere on the layout. Is it possible to go back to DC and check for shorts? at least you wont fry any chips using DC.

Before you plug anything else in Phil I do recommend strongly that you follow SibSno's advice above. Check every joint that should be isolating one piece of rail from another to make sure that it is.

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It's an 06 and was used as the second hand Set on my other layout some years back. Thanks.

The good news is that the layout works with 12V DC (apart from a couple of Frog Juicy bits.

Bad news is, I've just missed the Lancaster coming over 36E's Kings park at about 200'; sound but no view....pah! It was off to LLandudno presumably and it would seem itwas also with the Hurricane and Spit; no wonder the noise was wonderful.

Back to scoffing Corgette Muffins now.

P

 

The cab06 is only an auxiliary handset. It needs a Powercab (or bigger brother like PHpro) to work with.

 

As said above, the Powercab is a fully functioning DCC system. Once that is used as the base, then you can plug in Cab 06, Procab or even Powercabas as auxiliary handsets.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Well, another kick in the bo##okz last evening!

Thank goodness the majority of my loco's were not on the tracks because if they are also fuc#ed then I'm giving up this DCC lark despite my preferring it. I'd rather relay/modify the whole thing back to DC and create clever sectioning than have this sort of thing happen again.

I think I feel like the German footy team must feel at the moment (I am not laughing, I really am not laughing).

I will maybe have calmed down by this evening and a few glasses of very potent Cider.

P

 

Oh yes, I can hear the sniggering of those DC bods that are just itching to say " I told you so....................); yes, I know :triniti:

 

Hi Phil

 

I am so sorry to hear of your troubles. Have you fitted circuit breakers (PBX) like we discussed many moons ago? If you have your locos should always be safe regardless.

 

Best wishes

 

Concerned in Vancouver

Edited by john dew
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Thanks all and John, no I have not fitted those EB CBs yet as I am still not on 5A Booster or Powewr Pro! I got one of those simple ones, PB6 but that has only been tried a couple of times and i'm not certain I know that it is working correctly. I read about the PSX Breakers but have not invetsigated them yet as they are very expensiv (PSX4 is £140). The OGCB seems like a compromise piece of kit from DCC Specialities (@ Digitrains).

Phil

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On holiday in South Devon and saw our route took us past a lace called Seaton Junction

 

Surely not ? We think

 

When I get back to decent broadband I’ll share the pics

 

Only a sad single line now, and lots of overgrown weeds

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On holiday in South Devon and saw our route took us past a lace called Seaton Junction

 

Surely not ? We think

 

When I get back to decent broadband I’ll share the pics

 

Only a sad single line now, and lots of overgrown weeds

Hi Smifffy

 

That would be a lot easier to model. :read:  :yes: :good: :no:  :nono: 

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When you have a DCC command station again, plug it in, with no locos on the track. Place a 2p coin across the rails anywhere on your layout, and the command station should immediately cut out (or your district cut-outs should kick in).

 

If this does not happen, then your wiring is not sufficient to carry the current available from the command station. There will be some small resistance in the wiring and/or connectors that will limit the current just enough to not fire the cut-out. So, if you have a 5 Amp booster, the coin shorting the track might 'only' be drawing 4.9 Amps. The booster will not trip, but you have 60 Watt of energy being dissipated somewhere, so things will get warm (think 60 Watt bulb hot).

Edited by Ian Morgan
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Thanks all and John, no I have not fitted those EB CBs yet as I am still not on 5A Booster or Powewr Pro! I got one of those simple ones, PB6 but that has only been tried a couple of times and i'm not certain I know that it is working correctly. I read about the PSX Breakers but have not invetsigated them yet as they are very expensiv (PSX4 is £140). The OGCB seems like a compromise piece of kit from DCC Specialities (@ Digitrains).

Phil

 

Hi Phil

 

We may be talking about two separate issues here.

 

[1] I would certainly carry out Ian's basic shorting test.........do check there are no locos on the tracks first!

 

[2] You should, as a priority, establish which circuit breaker(s) meets your needs/budget and have them wired up permanently ASAP.........they should always trip ear;ier than the breaker in your DCC control box

 

I think of mine as an insurance policy........ I installed my 4 PSX from day one and reckon they have saved me their purchase price many times over...........in 10 years I believe I have only nuked 2 decoders.....(both thru my own stupidity) . And thats in addition to all the time saved in fault finding and acting as an early warning system.

 

 I admit the PSX sound expensive at 33 pounds each........although I guess thats close to the equivalent of two decent decoders. Hopefully you can source a less expensive but equally effective alternative..........if not I would consider installing just one upstream of your four (?) power districts and ,if you havent done so already, fit each district with a basic on/off switch for fault finding

 

Sorry for the rant.....but having been one of the guys who persuaded you to look at DCC I feel kind of responsible! 

 

Best wishes

 

John

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Chaps, I really appreciate your advice and I shall do a thorough check when my beak has cooled down. However, what worries me is that about ten days ago the thing worked throughout, then I had a couple of points that appeared to fail. I replaced them and all worked again. Then, just before the destruction session, some of the DCC 80 frog switches seemed to fail and that was the problem when all things went bonkers. I can't see how the layout works all over for months and months and then one day, weird things happen. I have checked for all the usual stuff like stray track pins but probably need to take a magnifying glass to the whole thing.

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(Clive, stop sniggering at the back...).

 

Hope you get things sorted soon Phil.

Hi Stu

 

Serious 'ead on......I am trying to take all this in as I am trying to understand why something that was working fine goes BANG!!!!!

 

But without seeing how things are assembled I am not going to make a comment on what people are saying or make any comments myself. 

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