dseagull

Initial impressions are mixed; When I picked the board up off the lounge floor last night for overnight storage, all held nicely. This morning, before leaving for work I decided to gently touch some of the ballast on the side of the track, only for it to disintegrate under my finger - that between the rails seemed better. To be fair, I will give it another go tonight mixing absolutely scrupulously to a 1/7 ratio and stirring for longer, hopefully to coat all the granules better. In answer to your questions; 1; No, not noticeably anyway. It might do if you were too heavy-handed with the spray, but it is pretty good on this front. 2; See above....

Like taxes, death and failing to win the lottery, ballasting is something of a required inevitably. Its also something I've never been very good at. For the sidings, I plan to use DAS clay as per Chris Nevard's methods; http://nevardmedia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/creating-effect-of-ash-ballast.html For the main line though, and given that shingle extraction is in my history as a purpose of the line, I wanted to give the impression of shingle ballast. As this isn't available out of the packet, I mixed some up from various Woodland Scenics fine grade ballast with a ratio of a tablespoon of Buff, a teaspoon of Grey and half a teaspoon of Brown. So far, so good. So now we come to fixing it. Various methods have been suggested over the years, from a mix of PVA and water, to scenic cement, to neat glue and no doubt plenty of others to boot. There is though a new option - I saw this just after Christmas and have been tempted ever since. This is 'Ballast Magic' from Deluxe Materials - there is an advert/instructional video on YouTube; I bought the kit which comes with a water spray bottle and a mixing cup -https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/108-ballast-magic-5060243901507.html As per the video, you mix it 1.7 with ballast, then apply dry and spray with water. It is then supposed to dry in a couple of hours. Here is a section of my first attempt, photographed about 20 minutes after spraying with water. One thing to note is that the video suggests not making up too much at once - I presume this is is to avoid the powder going off prematurely due to moisture in the air. I overestimated, so may have to have to get rid of what's left in the mixing cup - though the bottle comes with 100ml or so, which should be more than plenty to finish the rest of the layout. I also ran piece of cardboard over the track after spraying, to take any of the gluey water off that had settled on the railhead - this isn't mentioned anywhere so I may be worrying unnecessarily, but thought it better to take it off wet rather than having to scrub it off when dry! Verdict? Too early to say - it certainly goes on nicely and is easy to use, but the proof of the pudding for me will come later when I pick the board up to store on end as usual overnight.

After placing the dock temporarily in position, I thought I'd take a photo - as much for my benefit as anything else - of progress to date. Plenty of basics to put in, let alone anything else, but the 'bones' of the goods yard side at least are now nearing completion. I hope this gives a general 'map' of the layout which will help anyone interested to get their bearings when I start to add further structures and scenery.

With the goods shed all but completed, the loading bank is next on the agenda. As with the platform, the basic shell is a thin ply top with 12mm basswood sides. For the surface, I've again used DAS clay, this time attempting a cobbled surface using a method mentioned in the past by Chris Nevard of using a ballpoint pen with the writing part removed to form the cobbles themselves. Chris' article can be found on his blog -http://nevardmedia.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/quick-cobbles.html My method is slightly different, in that I used the ink tube from a Biro rather than the end of the pen, as I wanted slightly smaller cobbles than the end of the pen gave, and dismantling too many pens would have produced stern glares from she who must be obeyed (I've already had strict instructions to stay away from the baby powder!) Once dry, I painted the surface with Railmatch Sleeper Grime, and then drybrushed with a variety of greys and creams to produce a variance of colour. Finally, I added brick facings on the edges and coping on the rail side using plasticard, scored and thinned on the edge, and a flint wall of which more will follow in a later update. This isn't quite finished, I feel it needs a couple of brick pillars for the ends, the subject of tonights planned session, along with some fencing on the 'other side' and along the access ramp and a bit of filler to cover up a gap (which inevitably looks worse than it is in the photos!) at the bottom where the surface and ramp facings meet. A close up to show the cobbled effect - the colouring looks better from a normal distance! The other side An overview, showing the coping. As always, thoughts and comments are welcome - I took advantage of the natural light for these photos, but will try to add one showing the dock in place on the layout next time. EDIT Here you go - gap filled with Humbrol Filler and a 'vintage' filter applied to try and get an 'of the time' look to the photo. The buffer stop is an old Hornby one as a placeholder.

Unexpected pleasure this morning of a £300 rebate from Southern Water. That'll be an E4 coming my way then...!

Whilst there has been no updates for a week or so, progress has continued apace, with the bulk of the platform now completed as well as the cattle pens. As previously mentioned I want to ensure a local flavour to the layout, starting with the building materials, but also continuing to the structures. Typically, a cattle dock in 00 Gauge has meant using the Ratio Kit, which is of a GWR style with wire and post fences. Locally though the cattle docks I have found in my research - Hailsham for one, but also the 'new build' dock at Kingscote on the Bluebell Line - had wooden 'four bar' fencing. I've chosen to represent this with Ratio Lineside fencing, and I leave it to you to decide if it works. I'm quite pleased with it though, and my wife was impressed with my patience! The fencing itself is set into a platform top of DAS clay, with 60 Thou plasticard for the floor of the pens. The non slip brick pattern is Wills tunnel lining, cut into strips, and for those in between, individual bricks. I used the tunnel lining as the sheets are flexible and therefore considerably thinner than the standard sheets. The pattern itself was cribbed from the stunning model of the Walllingford pens by John Hayes in MRJ 223 - though his work, with custom-milled brass section and opening gates makes mine look like the amateur effort it is! To represent the gates, I adapted the fencing with bracing bars from thinned offcuts, and added hinges from slivers of the posts, which were trimmed to make the gates. A few little bits will be needed - standpipes and troughs for example, along with a healthy dose of grot coloured paint washed over the floor to represent the mud and unmentionables which haven't quite been washed away by the station staff! Heres the dock in relation to the rest of the platform, with the SECR van currently in use to gauge clearances - excuse the poor quality of the 'Google Earth' style view, the camera on the tablet didn't appreciate it very much! The platform itself is made from basswood from Hobbycraft for the sides, with a top of 2mm ply and a surface of DAS, with coping stones scribed individually. The brick facing is again cut down Wills tunnel lining, with separate strips (one of four, and one of two courses) cut and overlaid for the corbelling on the edge of the platform. This is nearly complete, the ramp section needs doing as does the small sections leading into the bay. The odd sections of wood you can see in the overhead view are supports for the ramp leading up to the station building entrance and the ramp for accessing the cattle pens. I've also noticed that I've left off the ramp at the other end of platform, which will run down to a barrow crossing next to the level crossing. The whole shebang will be fixed to the board - making something like this where placing it down slightly incorrectly could result in all sorts of problems with stock hitting the platform removable is, I suspect, asking for trouble! This will also let me fill in the gaps between the dock and main platform, and also the ramp sections, which were built separately. The goods dock at the other end of the layout will be built using the same methods, but I'm looking forward to cracking on with some more structures - a couple of railway cottages and also an attempt at something from the real Litlington...

I had intended to crack on with the wall for the blacksmiths yard this evening, but as I have a toddler who is simply refusing to go to bed on my knee, I fear it may have to be put off! I have though taken advantage of todays good weather to take a couple of photos of the now very nearly (not yet glazed and needs a sign) blacksmiths building itself: After being pleased with the goods shed even before I'd finished painting it, this one was the complete opposite - until I started putting on the guttering and bargeboards I wasn't sure about it at all. I'm particularly pleased with the chimney, built separately and attached almost at the end, as now it is there it seems to look as if it always has been! I intend to attach the building to a separate sub-base, because as the layout is portable, buildings need to be able to be removed. I have found some 2mm ply that I'd forgotten about in the dark recesses behind the 'box of things I want to keep but am not sure where to put' that has been cluttering up the corner of the lounge, much to my wife's displeasure, since we moved, and intend to use this for the road surface, which will mean the 1.5mm ply which I bought for the core of the retaining wall can be used for the sub base of this building - it should fit nicely and enable me to hide the join with the 'fixed' road surface. The wall and the little section of the blacksmiths yard which I can represent will also be part of the sub base, hopefully hiding the join well. Next on the buildings front will be a pair of railway cottages,but before I start that I think it may be time to start thinking about construction of the platform and loading bank - that goods shed needs something to sit on!

Thanks Don, that would have been ideal - however I've now started to mock up the lane crossing the tracks, and have found that there really isn't the space for anything other than a small section of the wall (not the space for the gates either which is a shame. The planned Railway Cottages opposite the station though should have the space for a privy each!

Its been something of a fraught week in the household as, after a rough weekend, our eldest broke out in the very visible symptoms of chickenpox on Monday. In between applying calamine lotion and trying to prevent the inevitable scratching, I have been working on a few bits and have now started on the second building. Again referring to the Cuckoo Line book for inspiration, and with the knowledge that there was one in Litlington in the early part of the last century, I have decided to add a blacksmiths to the layout. Full of ambition, I printed out the relevant plans of the blacksmiths shop built by the LBSC at Groombridge for use by the PW department, scaled it up -and then found it was far too big for the intended location, so what follows is another 'based on' rather than a brick for brick scale model. The shell went together reasonably quickly from the usual Wills sheets (English Bond brick, doors and windows from the spares box and Roof Tiles, with an offcut of 60thou plasticard to replace the hidden rear wall as I ran out of brick sheeting). In keeping with my usual methods, I've built and painted this first before applying the detail - bargeboards, glazing, gutters & downpipes, door frame etc so the picture is a little 'rough and ready' but will hopefully be improved with those additions. I should also add the chimney stack is not yet painted and is just balanced in its position at the end of the building at present. The arched windows, also refugees from the Ratio Goods Shed mentioned previously, may seem a little high, but they are positioned as per the plan of the blacksmiths from Groombridge. The door on the front elevation is the entrance from the street and will have a sign above it, whilst the door on the side will open into a cobbled yard, bounded by a flint wall (again, I'm a glutton for punishment considering I may still rework the first one I've built!) with some of the lovely etched gates from the Scalelink range at the front opening onto the road. The yard will have plenty of junk etc and maybe, if I can fit one in, either a cart shed (would a blacksmith have had/needed one?) or a stable (same question applies!) in the far corner of the yard. Alternative options could be a builders yard, small engineering works or a wheelwrights perhaps? - I'm quite sold on the yard with its flint wall and gates though!

You won't need a selfie stick to see the grin on your face when Harry Kane belts home the winner Gordon - or mine, for that matter! Come on you Spurs! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5jMX5-Yu-iM

Thanks, I agree it would help. Windows are from the bits box, but I suspect they may be from a Ratio Signal box kit.

Here's a small goods shed\store for Litlington, based somewhat on the one at Horam on the Cuckoo Line. Already spotted a few areas that need touching in with the fine brush. Layout details here; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1330-the-cuckmere-valley-railway/ Any comments on how I can improve it more than welcome.

I've mentioned on several occasions that I have been using the Alan Elliott 'Cuckoo Line' book for inspiration, especially for the railway structures. I've previously mentioned the Station building from Hailsham, and way back at the start, I thought the Goods Shed from Rotherfield would make a nice model for the layout too. As the planning stages progressed though, and with the subsequent reduction in available space, it became clear that it wouldn't fit properly, so it was back to the drawing board. Horam Station had a small goods shed on the platform, and although I am keeping mine in the goods yard, it seemed to fit well, as well as giving me scope for some alterations to make it my own. Unfortunately whilst the book is very comprehensive, there is no plan of the shed included, so I have had to approximate. You can see the real thing here; http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/h/horam/index3.shtml- it is the small wooden structure partially obscured by the hedge and fence. My interpretation of this is below; You can see I've changed it a little, replacing one of the walls with brick and adding a small flat-roofed office, and also a sash window on the rail side so that the foreman can look down the line to see what he will be dealing with next! As usual the camera has shown up a few areas needing touching up, but I'm quite happy with it for now - the roof felt, by the way, is a dried (unused!) Baby wipe, cut to size, folded under the plasticard roof, and painted using my preferred Tamiya Acrylics - the effect really is quite good. The woodwork is Wills sheets, as is the brickwork, whilst the sliding door is cut down from a Ratio GWR goods shed kit which was built and completed, but dropped when we moved, neatly separating back into its component parts! The whole structure will sit on the extreme left of the layout, on a still to be built dock. It may not win any awards, but its mine!

Thanks for the comments. I have now painted the 'yard side' wall and I'm leaving it for a few days to see if it grows on me. It has been suggested that I try a slurry of polyfilla and PVA to reduce the depth of the cobbles, which is something I may well try. Typically, after being unable to get the cobblestone walling that I originally wanted on Tuesday, I called into another shop on Thursday and got some! - I think it will certainly be more useful for building the houses, and may yet replace the existing wall.

In the last update I talked about a scenic identity, and mentioned the common use of flint in Sussex for building and construction. I'm off this week, and whilst I planned to spend a lot of time on the layout real life has somewhat got in the way, although having said that it has been a lovely few days so far with another couple to go. One thing I've long wanted to make a start on is the retaining wall, as it will be a clearly visible feature, and it needs to go in first before I can start on the goods shed/bank siding. As mentioned previously I've been playing around with a few ideas of how to produce the flint, but today hit a snag. I had wanted to use Wills Cobblestone Walling, but a visit to the model shop saw them out of stock. They did though have some of the Cobblestones, so I've decided to try it and see. I also picked up, for the princely sum of 90p, a sheet of 1.5mm ply, which is suitably flexible to put the slight curve that is required in easily. After getting home, I cracked on and have 'finished' the wall, although it is not painted and still requires some filling. In all honesty, I'm not sure - the cobblestone has produced flint which is a little large, but equally, I'd like to get it painted and then reassess. See what you think - I've cropped the image, and it is a little, but only a little, bigger than actual size. This will sit approx 10" from the baseboard edge.; As always, comments are encouraged! - its a shame Wills don't do N Gauge/2mm Cobblestones, as I suspect they would be perfect...

Another very satisfied customer here, ordered two frog juicers 9pm last Monday, posted Tuesday lumchtime and with me on Wednesday morning. Terrific service.

Yes I'm sure they will be! - those two in particular really appeal as well, but the space I have in mind would only accommodate one of them. The middle picture, incidentally, is the Lodge House and marked on the old OS map linked earlier.

Now that the layout plan is finally complete, I have spent a most enjoyable evening browsing various websites looking for scenic inspiration. Something which I have been keen to do since coming up with the idea is to keep a real 'Sussex feel' with regard to the scenics and the structures. As well as buildings, that also encompasses local building materials - I've even found myself looking quizzically at trees on my travels, thinking "I wonder if I could do justice to you and fit you somewhere". Apparently pills are available for this sort of thing, but as the Mrs hasn't caught me yet I will continue to do so for the time being! Now I do it intend to have a drive out towards Litlington at some point and take some photos myself, but as the kids are in bed, you will have to make do with the first fruits of my digitally researched labours for the time being. A good place to start is usually a map, and below you will see a link that takes you to an 1880 OS Map of Litlington and the surrounding areas as digitised by the British History Online website - if you first locate the word Alciston on the map, then zoom in just above the 'N', you will find the village. http://www.british-history.ac.uk/os-1-to-10560/sussex/079 As you can see, Litlington in 1880 was not a large place - a pub, a few houses, a manor house a little away from the centre, a post office and, to the north, the church. In my minds eye, the station is between the pub and the river, with a conveniently placed lane being the road which crosses the tracks just south of the station. I'd previously looked at this map on old-maps and the like, but not at the same zoom level due to their paywall, so it has been a real boon to find this, especially when cross-referenced with other sources to fill in a few of the gaps with buildings that are not captioned on the map linked above. One immediate example which springs to mind is a blacksmiths, which would have been just round the corner from the station. Moving on to initial ideas for structures, there are a couple of obvious ones - albeit moved from their actual locations to fit in with my geography - those being the church and the school. Unfortunately for my purposes, they would both be a little too big and would, I feel, overly dominate what is supposed to be a rural layout. The School: The Church: So - those are buildings which I like, but don't think I can fit. Let's move on to some others which I think I can do justice to - albeit with 'representations' rather than true scale models to avoid having to ask some awkward questions of present owners! - but first, a diversion... One of the key features of the local area is the extensive use of flint as a building material. We have a lot of it in Sussex, and we've certainly made use of it over the years - as indeed those images above demonstrate. With the 'main line' rising off stage, I need a retaining wall, and flint would have been the material most probably used for this. There may be a few more sections required, but the main section will be behind the loading bank; If you excuse the placeholder shed and the wonky ex-mini rolls container 'bank', you will see what I mean. The card represents a wall which holds back the bank, but also continues to form a wall running alongside the track. Unfortunately I can't show images of what this kind of wall looks like in reality, because I can't find a suitable image with the right copyright licence, but here are a few links to exactly what I mean: https://ianfrithrn.wordpress.com/tag/horizontals/ - Third picture down http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniaturescalebuildings/ig/English-Village-Facades/Lewes-Flint-Wall.htm I've had various ideas on how to model this, but think I am set on using a 'core' of plasticard to get the thickness, with Wills 'Cobblestone Walling' painted accordingly for the flint. As for the brick course which can be seen in one oof those photos, some walls have it, some dont - as yet I'm undecided on if my walls will have or not. The 'capping' will be either DAS clay, scribed accordingly, or card, as used as ridge capping by the master Iain Robinson on this rather delightful model here . I was toying with the idea of scribing the lot from DAS, but I don't think I could keep the proportions right. Slaters do a flint wall product, but it looks a little too 'random' for what I've got in mind. With the use of flint in mind, another wander onto the excellent Geograph.org.uk website has revealed a few ideas which are a little smaller and I think I could fit in. Again, these are all from Litlington - all images are credited accordingly using the nifty tool on the website with relevant info at the bottom of the pictures: So hopefully this will give a little flavour of the actual area - as I continue to research I have no doubt I will find other 'possibles', but it will be nice to have plenty to try out and choose from. Any thoughts would be, as ever, very welcome!