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Phil Mc's workbench


Phil Mc
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Once 672 has got Yellow axle boxes, they're ready for weathering.

I did 670-675 with Lima models years ago, now long-gone, back then I can't imagine I noticed the subtle differences between the loco's, like placement of cabside numbers, position of Electric warning flashes, etc.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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Sssssh, don't tell Dad what he's getting for his birthday.!

Once it's been 'modernised'.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

Like this in 2009?

 

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And are you also doing it's partner 670?

 

And then make sure it's on a nice presentation stand.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/magility9/8532141338/in/photolist-dZXsn9-dnxWkw-dJxSrX-rzzBRf-dJxRt4-bpduq1-hgzea6-q2zPbk-dPTLcw-6uoYQP-7FgXYd-g27vhU-hR1k4x-fqY8j6-dnwUB6-7hjb2b-ebEXLs-9u5Dvv-e6EgV9-e6EgVG-ebzjxn-9rVjbB-dyhbYK-hTeqnS-a2LF4H-FUqAnD-cJVjoq-bwLRcc-boTEjg-dzGpdZ-wwFHQV-QTFN8X-bvry9C-afBk6V-yVbKsC-dPN9B8-px43LQ-6LMYjj-e8wgMy-pyCMuP-cs8oPL-9u8E2w-cjkdcG-wSC7aZ-zcPN2k-f3sEoF-bKmxPa-bw7FVM-6NM468-dLyeg7

 

Cheers,

Mick

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So,

MW sockets, nose-top lamp bracket, aerials, ploughs, pipes, Orange cantrail stripe, new electric flashes, Yellow axleboxes, Red springs, Silver kicksteps & handrails, nose-end numbers, White lines on wheels, and light weathering, all added.

Slightly wrong style of numbers, and oversize Dog, suitably ignored !! :mosking:

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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So,

MW sockets, nose-top lamp bracket, aerials, ploughs, pipes, Orange cantrail stripe, new electric flashes, Yellow axleboxes, Red springs, Silver kicksteps & handrails, nose-end numbers, White lines on wheels, and light weathering, all added.

Slightly wrong style of numbers, and oversize Dog, suitably ignored !! :mosking:

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

DCC sound and I know where it can have a run out in June.......

 

Cheers,

Mick

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DCC sound and I know where it can have a run out in June.......

 

Cheers,

Mick

It'll still be DC I think (unless I nick the noise out of my DRS 37087 for a while!)

My DCRail 56312 makes noise, & by then my HNRC 20311 & 20314 will........... ;)

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Phil

 

Just had an extremely pleasant evening reading through this thread. Some cracking detailing added and excellent weathering. I've bookmarked a few posts for inspiration on upcoming projects of mine.

 

Thanks for sharing!

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Feels like I've not been getting much done lately, but I've been sorting the wiring of the lights in my HNRC 20's, for their imminent change from DC to noisy DCC. :)

Trying to separate the 2 red lights from the 4 white ones in each cab has been more fiddly than fitting them in the first place !! :scratchhead:

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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Trying to separate the 2 red lights from the 4 white ones in each cab has been more fiddly than fitting them in the first place !! :scratchhead:

I agree on both counts...some jobs take an age and seemingly give you little payback, but they make a good model a great one. On the lights front, I frequently have the same problems, and permanent marker and insulation tape are your friends! :yes:

Black insulation tale is thin and um...black, so no light gets through and it can be added in the most cramped spaces. Also, most loco lights aren't that bright, so a small amount of marker or black/white/red paint on the lens can sort the light bleed and in some cases add realism.

 

Keep up the fab work! ;)

Jack.

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It was more a case of I'd soldered all the +ve sides of the white lights to the -ve sides of the red lights, and vice versa.

Worked fine on DC, not a bit of use for DCC though !!

Now got a +ve feed to all the lights, a -ve return from the whites, and another -ve return from the reds.

sounds easy when you type it quickly........

I may need to experiment with different resistors to sort out the brightness, when I get the chips in.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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As mentioned before, my Son's DCC 'museum' layout is the place to see all the models we have that don't really fit in with anything else.

One such loco is a vitrains Cotswold Rail livery 47, which I've just fitted with sound. :yes:

I deliberately wanted to do this without researching how others have done it, just to see what I came up with !

The results are shown below, the speaker is mounted solidly enough that I can pick the chassis up just by holding the speaker box.

To me it sounds fantastic, just like a Spoon !! :sungum:

Comments welcome.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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Been doing some more sound installations :)
 
HNRC 20's have been done, just need 'tuning' to run smoothly as a pair.

 

Pics show-

 

Start point.

The shallow speaker box, as supplied by Ian ( Legomanbiffo )

The PCB removed from the chassis.

The shallow speaker box, part way through being made shallower and narrower !

Close ups of chassis before and after light surgery.

Chip with plug removed, and completed speaker enclosure.

Completed chassis.

 

Still not entirely sure what I'm doing, but I haven't blown anything up yet !! :D

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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A someone with a definite thing for 50's (in case no-one had noticed!!) I can't quite believe I'm going to say this........

 

...... the 47 is still my favourite sound fitted loco. :)

 

They all need a 'works visit' to someone with a slightly more sophisticated controller than a Hornby Select, to have the volumes reduced !

As I've said before, the DCC stuff is still pretty new to me, and as cool as having sound is, there's a great deal of simple pleasure to be gained from having loco's where the lights don't go off when they stop moving !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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I totally agree with you on DCC.... although I almost gave up on it as I found programming really hard. Now I have a sprog 3 and life is great. I can totally recommend one if you want to do things like remapping, speed control etc.

 

Cheers

Will

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I totally agree with you on DCC.... although I almost gave up on it as I found programming really hard. Now I have a sprog 3 and life is great. I can totally recommend one if you want to do things like remapping, speed control etc.

 

Cheers

Will

Thanks, I'll have a look into that !

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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A someone with a definite thing for 50's (in case no-one had noticed!!) I can't quite believe I'm going to say this........

 

...... the 47 is still my favourite sound fitted loco. :)

 

Phil, you know I love 50's but even I have to admit ticking over in the background they can sometimes do my head in. Like you say maybe reducing the volume would help but I don't have any issues with a 47 and I'm sure its current volume is the same.......however forget the 47 ticking over go for Biff's peak.......that is truly awesome and as a big 50 fan it breaks my heart to say that  :O

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The Peak does sound great, but our 45048 is a definite fixture on the DC layout (it's one of dads favourite loco's), when the layout is in retro mode, and I haven't done anything to our 45036 yet !

I'm in the middle of swapping from 'retro' to 'up-to-date' just now, so I can give our 68 a run, after its had Extreme Etchings brake disks and nameplates added and a bit of light weathering. 

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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Another mighty fine job you've done there Phil, love the disc brakes, they really set it off  :sungum:

I stuck them on with matt varnish, waiting until they were quite stuck then rested the loco on its side and applied power to the wheels. Using a cocktail stick pressed against the inner edge of the disc, to ensure they are concentric in the wheel.

When fully stuck, I lightly pressed a fibreglass brush onto the spinning disc to give the 'score' lines seen on the prototype.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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