RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 5, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2015 I love seeing a completely crossed off page... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Lovely neat work so far! by the way what book is that in the background of your latest post? Seems interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 5, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2015 Lovely neat work so far! by the way what book is that in the background of your latest post? Seems interesting. It's Yeadon's Register No 47a - J21, J22, J23, J24, the photo at the top is of the loco I'm building, 1860. Tonight's progress. Steps, middle splashers, lamp brackets, reverser, cab fixed, cab interior and fall plate. So quite a productive night really. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 6, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2015 This morning I've fitted the sanding rods and made a start on the boiler, I rolled it using my new GW Models rollers, a bit expensive but after this first boiler, well worth it! The smokebox frame is made up and bolted to the boiler for a test fit and it looks like the boiler barrel needs shortening by about 1mm. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 6, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2015 That's better, it seems that the half etched line around the front of the boiler is the final length, the instructions don't mention this! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 6, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2015 So at the end of modelling today quite a bit of progress has been made, the smokebox wrapper is fitted and the smokebox and boiler soldered together, I've also built the tender chassis and I have two piles of brake blocks. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I love seeing a completely crossed off page... I know this might seem daft, but that's one of the best bits of advice I've seen for ages. Regards 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Especially sensible if you don't follow the order of the instructions. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 6, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2015 Especially sensible if you don't follow the order of the instructions.I have been following them but jumping between loco chassis, body and tender. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted June 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2015 (edited) This was one of my very early kits (2008) and at that time I left the compensation or springing to the builder. I assumed that it would only be the P4 modellers that would be fitting hornblocks. I now know better! On this assumption the instructions suggest that for a rigid chassis the springs be soldered behind the frames. My standard footplate design uses two layers, the upper layer being half etched to add detail around the splashers, lamp irons and elsewhere. For the Masochist there are push up rivets on these areas but these do demand care. I don't have a problem with warping though it does need the two layers to be pressed firmly together whilst being soldered together. In more recent kits I have added holes in the lower layer so that solder can be introduced through these whilst being pressed together. I is always nice to hear of the experience of others building my kits. Constructive criticism is always welcome although I don't recall having a problem with the length of the boiler. It is looking good! ArthurK Edited June 6, 2015 by ArthurK 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks Arthur, I just took the boiler back to the half etched line and it was fine and I managed to push out all the rivets no problem! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Any chance of a photo of the GW models rollers? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 Just checked - the artwork for this kit dates back to July 2008! The tender has been updated since then but not the loco. ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2015 Any chance of a photo of the GW models rollers? OzzyO. Will do, try and get a photo tonight. It's a brilliant bit of kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2015 Any chance of a photo of the GW models rollers? OzzyO. Rollers as promised, they're 6" long. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 (edited) Whereas I have to agree with Paul that the GW roller is a serious bit of kit, it does in my opinion have two shortcomings. First it requires a substantial vice to hold it which is not always convenient if working on the kitchen table. Secondly there is no quick way of removing the boiler from the rollers. This is not a difficult job but it does mean removing the roller bearing along with the collar and spring. That can mean a happy (!) time searching the floor for either or both. I did buy one of these and used it very successfully. However I have reverted to using my "Western" rolling mill which I find more convenient. This was acquired some 50 years ago. I doesn't need a vice and having a flat, felt covered, base can be used on any flat table top requiring only the left hand to steady it. It is turned with a wheel rather than a handle. The beauty of the mill in my opinion the ease in which the entire left hand set of roller bearings can be removed. Simply undo the latch, slide off the bearings and remove the boiler. This is somewhat larger than the GW mill being designed for 7mm and 4mm. As a aside the boilers in my later kits have the boilers rolled. My apologies for taking up a bit of your thread Paul. please forgive me. ArthurK Edited June 7, 2015 by ArthurK 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have just bought the 10inch GW Roller and Arthurs comments are interesting as to its uses. I have only used it for rolling the tumblehome and clerestory roof Coach without any problem. I agree re having to use a Vice to hold it steady is a pain. I presume the Western version makers at 50 years old are long gone ? I never ever found anyone else selling/making Rollers before buying the GW version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 (edited) Mick As far as I know the Western mill is long gone. I have a riveter of the same vintage by the same maker. The address on that is Bristone Model Products, 12A Farm Road, Hove Sussex. Farm Road is still there, no mention of 12A but 12 is there. No results for search on Bristone Model Products. Hope that helps. ArthurK Edited June 7, 2015 by ArthurK 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 8, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2015 That looks a nice bit of kit Arthur shame it's not available, making the GW the best there is, it's a bit like my collection of PS Stubbs needle files, just about the best you can no longer buy! (unless you trawl the second hand tool stalls at model engineering shows!) As for needing a vice, I think any modeller serious enough to need a roller will have a decent vice, the one I use is a lot bigger than the one seen in the photo. Good progress on the tender tonight has seen the frames, footplate and tank put together. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Looking very good. I am currently building one of Arthurs Q5s although as it will be NER period really a T1. I built the tender first and I am now at the boiler rolling stage with the loco although I haven't started on the loco frames yet. Tender still needs brakes fitted as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) From the conversation above can it be assumed that there is no current alternative to the GW device? I would have serious problems accommodating a vice of the dimensions required. Regards Edited June 9, 2015 by PenrithBeacon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 From the conversation above can it be assumed that there is no current alternative to the GW device? I would have serious problems accommodating a vice of the dimensions required. Regards David, I use a Watchmakers vice (from Eileens Emporium) which isn't too big and can be removed from it's baseplate when not needed. Otherwise a cheap turnscrew mounted vice (e.g. one of the Rolson range) will do, as it doesn't need to be permanently fixed to the workbench. Some kit suppliers provide ready rolled etched boilers, thus making life a bit easier. Jol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 9, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2015 The vice that the rollers are photographed in is strong enough it's just I have a larger vice that I prefer, I used this one for the photo as there's a load of crap behind the big vice that I didn't want in the photo! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Rollers as promised, they're 6" long. IMGP0651-001.JPG Whereas I have to agree with Paul that the GW roller is a serious bit of kit, it does in my opinion have two shortcomings. First it requires a substantial vice to hold it which is not always convenient if working on the kitchen table. Secondly there is no quick way of removing the boiler from the rollers. This is not a difficult job but it does mean removing the roller bearing along with the collar and spring. That can mean a happy (!) time searching the floor for either or both. I did buy one of these and used it very successfully..... I've used a GW rolling mill for ages. One of the best tool investments I've ever made, along with the GW rivet press. Other points to note: 1) you still need to make sure that the "start" and "end" of the boiler roll is curved - I tend to end up with a well rolled tube, but not the ends, which tend to want to stay flat! 2) adjustment is needed if you are trying to roll a tapered boiler - you cannot roll it "straight through" in the same way as a parallel one. The method that worked for me was to feed the boiler sheet through the rollers in a curved arc, following the curves of the sheet, and only to feed it as far as the halfway mark. Then remove the half-rolled boiler, and do exactly the same from the other end. From the conversation above can it be assumed that there is no current alternative to the GW device?.... Well, there is the traditional method of a round bar and your thigh or the carpet. Edited June 9, 2015 by Horsetan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I used this one for the photo as there's a load of crap behind the big vice that I didn't want in the photo! Nowt wrong with a load of crap behind the vice... P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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