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Lime Street Station


Les Green
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Hi Guys that looks great not long now and it will be finished.

 

What are you going to do after that happens?

 

Pete

 

It looks like it has a lot of years yet.

 

Rip out some track and modernise it, and call it progress.

 

Then for more progress get rid of a lot of trains and call it privatisation.

 

Sorry,

 

OzzyO.

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Les, have you come across this before?

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0470.jpg

 

Michael

 

Les, have you come across this before?

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0470.jpg

 

Michael

Not seen that drawing before. It appears to be an artists impression of what the hotel would look like when completed. There are lots of features on the drawing that did not make it to the final build of the hotel.

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Not seen that drawing before. It appears to be an artists impression of what the hotel would look like when completed. There are lots of features on the drawing that did not make it to the final build of the hotel.

It might be but wasn't the hotel opened in 1867? The drawing dates to 1868. I'm not sure whether the drawing is an artist's impression or not.

 

Michael

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Another busy day....

 

Rob and I have spent the day with John:

 

John had already masked up the area we were to work on, and here is some of the trackwork awaiting Rob's attention with the airbrush:

post-3984-0-62128500-1391639107_thumb.jpg

You can see some of John's work he's done recently on the Point Rodding etc.

 

The paint is applied, starting with a good deep colour for the sleepers, which darkens to "dirty black" in the platform area:

post-3984-0-29577300-1391639105_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-43440200-1391639109_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-32048000-1391639111_thumb.jpg

John is helping with the portable masking to avoid overspray.

 

Once all this had been applied and allowed to dry over a very pleasant lunch, we could start on painting the rail edges and chairs with "Rust".

post-3984-0-50936800-1391639113_thumb.jpg

All the track from the start of the cutting back to the buffer stops on platforms 1 to 5 are to be painted like this.

post-3984-0-80189500-1391639114_thumb.jpg

 

It's not really that dark in the railway room! Just my c..p photography

 

Once this is done, the point rodding, facing point locks etc have to be installed followed by the ballast!

A lot more hours work ahead.......

 

Also during the afternoon John and I determined the precise location for the first two ground signals we will have to install.

The view from underneath shows the locations of the signals and direction of movement controlled:

post-3984-0-40824900-1391639116_thumb.jpg

This will also allow me to build the servo installation in such a way that it will not internfere with any existing infrastructure:

post-3984-0-10173200-1391639118_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of work to be done before we can start operating sessions again. :locomotive:

 

Steve.

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It might be but wasn't the hotel opened in 1867? The drawing dates to 1868. I'm not sure whether the drawing is an artist's impression or not.

 

Michael

The hotel was indeed built in 1867. I have engraved the date on the base of one of the columns at the side of the front door. A 'because we can' moment! the date the model was designed is engraved on the base of the column on the other side of the door.

 

The drawing has several features that were not included on the final build of then hotel:

1. The iron roof crestings on the main roof were never fitted.

2. The small windows on the roof of the outer two towers were not fitted on the front sloping roof, only the sides.

3. The detail beneath the bay windows on the two outer  towers is totally different on the final build.

4. The chimneys are a totally different design to the ones built.

 

Surprisingly the fourth chimney from the centre line on the right is correctly drawn double width!!

 

Luckily we have the original architectural LNWR drawing of the hotel as well as many photos of the hotel as it is now.

 

Les

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Hi Steve,

 

What colour mix has Rob used for the trackwork?

 

Regards,

 

Robin

Hi Robin,

 

I've had the following by email from John, who checked the facts with Rob first:

 

"The paint spraying Rob did yesterday was designed to colour the sleepers. The rail sides and chair detail to be brush painted, eventually to be followed by the ballasting.

 
The colour we were looking for was to blend in with the existing colour of the sleepers in the cutting, at one end and an almost black "colour" within the platforms at the other.
 
On a previous visit Rob and I had tried a small area by brush with "Humbrol Matt 155". This looked fine and we were both happy with the match.
 
I bought in some more of this colour ready for yesterday's visit, and to our dissatisfaction, when we sprayed the colour on, we felt that over a large area the colour was not right, it had a green/yellow cast. We were not sure whether there was a difference in the paint between tins, or the fact that this time we were using an airbrush to spray it on.
 
After some head scratching and playing about with paint I had in stock, Rob gave the whole area another light dusting with "Revell Matt 84". This gave the result you see in the pictures. In fact it looks far better in the flesh, and we are both very happy with the outcome.
 
The point I would make is that I feel the colour you use is a very subjective and personal issue, and I would suggest you play about for yourself with a few colours till you get what YOU think looks right. There is no hard and fast rule on this one it's purely up to the individual what he or she thinks is right. It's your train set, to hell with what anyone else thinks !!"

 

Steve.

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 There is no hard and fast rule on this one it's purely up to the individual what he or she thinks is right. It's your train set, to hell with what anyone else thinks !!"

 

 

 

And if the LLS crew can use this phrase, then it's good enough for me........ :imsohappy:  

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Steve, Thanks for the response. I will have a play around with the colours when I finally get round to painted the track.

 

Robin

 

 

Hi Robin,

 

I've had the following by email from John, who checked the facts with Rob first:

 

"The paint spraying Rob did yesterday was designed to colour the sleepers. The rail sides and chair detail to be brush painted, eventually to be followed by the ballasting.

 
The colour we were looking for was to blend in with the existing colour of the sleepers in the cutting, at one end and an almost black "colour" within the platforms at the other.
 
On a previous visit Rob and I had tried a small area by brush with "Humbrol Matt 155". This looked fine and we were both happy with the match.
 
I bought in some more of this colour ready for yesterday's visit, and to our dissatisfaction, when we sprayed the colour on, we felt that over a large area the colour was not right, it had a green/yellow cast. We were not sure whether there was a difference in the paint between tins, or the fact that this time we were using an airbrush to spray it on.
 
After some head scratching and playing about with paint I had in stock, Rob gave the whole area another light dusting with "Revell Matt 84". This gave the result you see in the pictures. In fact it looks far better in the flesh, and we are both very happy with the outcome.
 
The point I would make is that I feel the colour you use is a very subjective and personal issue, and I would suggest you play about for yourself with a few colours till you get what YOU think looks right. There is no hard and fast rule on this one it's purely up to the individual what he or she thinks is right. It's your train set, to hell with what anyone else thinks !!"

 

Steve.

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Latest developments on the Ground signal;

 

post-3984-0-98680700-1391980859_thumb.jpg

 

Les has modified the design a little to facilitate insatallation.

 

The 10mm square baseplate is provided for the signal to sit on.

Beneath this is a spigot which will fit inside a 1/4in dia brass tube.

Through this are two holes:

One to route the fibre optic (pale blue) down through the baseboard.

The second to take a 1/16in Brass tube (yellow), which will be a guide and bearing for the operating wire (brown), which in turn is sleeved with 1/32in brass tube (also brown) to give smooth operation.

 

The 1/4in brass tube will make a handle for assembling and painting the signal, and then for its location on a baseboard.

It will be long enough to ensure the servo assembly is located accurately.

 

Steve.

 

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Latest developments on the Ground signal;

 

attachicon.gif2014-02-09 Ground Signal V2.jpg

 

Les has modified the design a little to facilitate insatallation.

 

The 10mm square baseplate is provided for the signal to sit on.

Beneath this is a spigot which will fit inside a 1/4in dia brass tube.

Through this are two holes:

One to route the fibre optic (pale blue) down through the baseboard.

The second to take a 1/16in Brass tube (yellow), which will be a guide and bearing for the operating wire (brown), which in turn is sleeved with 1/32in brass tube (also brown) to give smooth operation.

 

The 1/4in brass tube will make a handle for assembling and painting the signal, and then for its location on a baseboard.

It will be long enough to ensure the servo assembly is located accurately.

 

Steve.

Also we have removed some material on the inside of the signal base to allow more movement of the balance weight lever, and increased the boss thickness behind the signal pivot. This will allow us to add a thickness of paint to the back side of the signal arm without it interfering with the signal base!!!

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The 10mm square baseplate is provided for the signal to sit on.

Beneath this is a spigot which will fit inside a 1/4in dia brass tube.

Through this are two holes:

One to route the fibre optic (pale blue) down through the baseboard.

The second to take a 1/16in Brass tube (yellow), which will be a guide and bearing for the operating wire (brown), which in turn is sleeved with 1/32in brass tube (also brown) to give smooth operation.

 

The 1/4in brass tube will make a handle for assembling and painting the signal, and then for its location on a baseboard.

It will be long enough to ensure the servo assembly is located accurately.

 

Steve.

 

Hello Steve,

 

I like the idea of the baseplate for the signal.

A couple of questions if I may.

1] is the 1/4" brass tube fixed to the baseboard? If not why not just make the "stub" 1/4" dia and a bit longer?

2] why not just make the second hole the size for the inner brass tube 1/32"

 

I may have miss understood the bit about the 1/4" brass tube making a handle for holding the signal, or are you using the 1/4" tube as a socket that is fixed in the baseboards as well.

 

OzzyO.

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