Horsetan Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Spares on the fret would have been a nice touch. I bought a spare fret. ....and doubtless quite a lot of other spares, as did I.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted November 30, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2016 I held the eyelets with a sewing needle (the taper grips the inside of the hole), cut from the sprue and fixed with Mek Pak, a really tiny drop. The solvent needs to be drawn into the joint and not run on the surface because it will stain the painted finish. I did the lot this way, got one tiny mark and no losses. The important thing is use a needle, not a pin because a pin has a cylindrical shape and you need the taper to grip. The needle gives you a handle for the eyelet. Good luck all the same :-) Richard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 30, 2016 I bought a spare fret. Geoff Endacott I just fretted...... Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 DCC Supplies currently have 20 frets of the lifting rings https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-106524/lifting-eye-fret-Dapol-oo-class52.htm at £3.96 inc postage Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted December 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2016 It's probably been mentioned before, but, if you weave a bit of thin wire or cotton through the lifting rings whilst still on the fret, then they don't go into orbit. Mike. Appreciate this and other suggestions, thanks, however in my own case it's a lack of manual dexterity as much as anything which caused problems with these tiny parts. I've managed some (and I think the profanity filter on the house has finally been cleaned!) but had to abandon others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 (edited) The only Dapol Western I own was a Kernow weathered edition, which, fortunately for me, had the lifting rings (as well as the name and number plates) pre-fitted. Nevertheless, one of those lifting rings has fallen out and gone missing, so I bought a spare fret from DCC Supplies some time ago. Like Rick (gwiwer), my modelling skills are reasonably good, but replacing the lifting ring defeated me for the same reasons he gave!I'll have to see if I can cadge a needle off SWMAABO* from her collection.* She Who Must Almost Always** Be Obeyed.** Well, she would like to think so, anyway! Edited December 1, 2016 by SRman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted December 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2016 Courage taken with both hands firmly grasping the credit card. There are now three fewer ring-things in stock at DCC supplies which should give me more than enough spares to frustrate myself and turn the air blue once more. I'll try the needle technique. One of the Kernow fleet here has also shed a ring so a stock of spares won't go amiss and isn't going to upset the overall packing arrangements for what is by most standards a substantial collection of rolling stock destined for the UK before their next summer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-BOAF Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 DCC Supplies currently have 20 frets of the lifting rings https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-106524/lifting-eye-fret-Dapol-oo-class52.htm at £3.96 inc postage What colour are they? Blue, maroon or unpainted. Next question - what paint matches Dapol Maroon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 What colour are they? Blue, maroon or unpainted. Next question - what paint matches Dapol Maroon? For question 1, they are blackened brass, so technically, they are unpainted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted December 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2016 Courage taken with both hands firmly grasping the credit card. There are now three fewer ring-things in stock at DCC supplies which should give me more than enough spares to frustrate myself and turn the air blue once more. I'll try the needle technique. One of the Kernow fleet here has also shed a ring so a stock of spares won't go amiss and isn't going to upset the overall packing arrangements for what is by most standards a substantial collection of rolling stock destined for the UK before their next summer.Years ago I saw some sculptures done inside the eyes of needles and other tiny places. The chap trained himself to control his own heartbeat so he could work between beats. I remember his efforts when I get fiddly small things. I did prepare by clearing and cleaning the bench and some other gentle and easy tasks to try to get myself as relaxed as possible. The engine is nice and heavy so at least it stays put during assembly. Hope this helps. Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classsix T Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 I only bought one 'cos it looked nice at a good price! Now I learn they're a new swearword learning exercise! I had enough of that working on full size locomotives, should these carry a health warning on the box perhaps? C6T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted February 28, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) I had a look at one of my maroon westerns today and noticed the frame looks like it's bending... I had the body off to check and can't see any explanation, the plastic frame is fitted by its lugs to all points on the metal chassis block, and the block itself looks ok. There's no slack in the fitting. But try as I might I cannot get the body to seat correct on the chassis, leaving a gap. The frame seems to be dropping at both ends, there's no play to "coax" it up either, as I said a very tight fit. When screwing the body back on I noticed the screw centres are no longer fully aligned to the hole either, there slightly off at an angle..about .5mm The gap is obvious at the cab fronts, there's a 0.75mm gap between the body and the front frame fairings when they are flush on others. Any thoughts ? Edited February 28, 2017 by adb968008 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I had a look at one of my maroon westerns today and noticed the frame looks like it's bending... I had the body off to check and can't see any explanation, the plastic frame is fitted by its lugs to all points on the metal chassis block, and the block itself looks ok. There's no slack in the fitting. But try as I might I cannot get the body to seat correct on the chassis, leaving a gap. The frame seems to be dropping at both ends, there's no play to "coax" it up either, as I said a very tight fit. When screwing the body back on I noticed the screw centres are no longer fully aligned to the hole either, there slightly off at an angle..about .5mm The gap is obvious at the cab fronts, there's a 0.75mm gap between the body and the front frame fairings when they are flush on others. Any thoughts ? OH god no, not again, lets hope there is a simple explination this time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
srihaggis Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Maybe I'm being blind but I can't see the gap? I have 2 so will check mine tonight for sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Maybe I'm being blind but I can't see the gap? I have 2 so will check mine tonight for sure. It's clear enough to me. As you come along the side towards the end, the inner chassis part gradualy begins to appear below the body. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
srihaggis Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Ahhh I see it now. Was too early! Will have a look at mine when I get in from work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I checked mine: one side at one end only had a very slight gap. The rest appeared fine. I can't see why there is even a slight gap on mine, but if you can, check the chassis on yours to see if it has bowed slightly. Otherwise, check the plastic cowl mouldings to see if they have become slightly dislodged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
srihaggis Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) Just checked my two, one was perfect and the other had a small gap... a bit of perseverance and the body 'clicked' back into shape (without having to take anything apart), everything looks fine now. Certainly sounded like plastic anyway. I'm going to put it down to how I put the body back on when fitting the decoder. Edit: Photo of mine after I clicked it back in... if you notice anything at a miss shout up Edited March 1, 2017 by srihaggis 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted March 1, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 1, 2017 Had the body off my first batch example over the weekend (experimenting with different speakers) an I encountered no problems with the screws locating back in their holes. Will check body fixing in the next few days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Apologies for taking so long, family illness has been my focus so it's been a while since I saw the layout. Today I decided to revisit my western , and concluded that the issue lies in that there are two different chassis's, and two different retainers for screws. One chassis reflects the original design battery box clips The other reflects the larger revised battery box clips The two chassis types are not interchangeable, if you put a chassis with original clips under the other body, it results In the gap being shown, however in reverse putting an modified clips chassis under the other body, it does fit. This is down to the thickness and length of screws used, and the drilling of the chassis hole. First I had the body off my D1056 (now D1058 MFYE) Which has the original battery box clips, then D1018 (now D1062 MHYE) which has the modified battery box clips. As the modified clips fits, I didn't have an issue with my D1058, but I did have the issue with D1062 (in the original post of Feb 28th). Today I reversed my changes to original and compared them.. findings below.. Looking at the chassis, I can clearly see a different shape hole for the screw. Looking at the body, I can see the screw threads are different sizes Finally the screws are different thickness of thread, longer length and larger head than the other. When I swapped bodies, the issue was resolved. For now my D1062 will be maroon, as preserved, with modified battery box clips. Edited March 19, 2017 by adb968008 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted March 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2017 For now my D1062 will be maroon, as preserved, with modified battery box clips. Now being repainted blue for the first time since 1974........... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted April 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2017 Just a heads up that the Western Loco Association (owners of D1013 and D1062 based at the Severn Valley) have their latest limited edition for sale at Kidderminster Diesel Depot as part of the SVR 'Open House weekend. Its BR Blue D1013 (pristine or weathered) and D1062 (pristine only). The weathered D1013 especially looks superb. Model railways also on display at the depot and elsewhere along the line. Model also available online - http://www.westernlocomotives.co.uk/apps/webstore/ . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
srihaggis Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Just ordered one of their D1013 models off their website. The site threw a wobbly, payment taken but led me to a page saying order cancelled. Interesting. Have messaged them to see what the crack is. Looks a superb model. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium amwells Posted April 9, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2017 Couldn't see the D1062 model online - perhaps sold out? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted April 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2017 Couldn't see the D1062 model online - perhaps sold out? I'll try and photograph then post up the flyer (when I get home from work) that they were handing out at the event. The gent I spoke to did say that they only had a few for sale at the moment - the rest are 'to follow' so fingers crossed they just haven't put D1062 up on the site yet. The 12'' to 1' version of the real 1062 is virtually complete in its repaint into 'rail blue' - looks magnificent! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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