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Heljan Class 14s for Hattons


dcroz
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Whilst not quibbling with the asking price, 18GBP for the 7mm set is a tad too much for me when I'm only making one engine, so only want one pair of numbers, not enough for all 56..!!! Sorry!!

 

I appreciate your point.

 

However, I primarily produce 4mm. scale transfer sheets and the smallest practical sheet for printing is A6 - ie. one quarter of an A4 sheet.

 

I can get numbers for all 56 locos on an A6 sheet and, at ??6.00, most 4mm. scale modellers find my transfers to be affordable.

 

I have, over the years, been asked to rescale my transfers to other scales; (most recently to Gauge 3)!

 

Clearly, increasing the scale of a transfer sheet increases its size. Larger sheets cost more money - they use more material.

 

In the case of 7mm. scale the rescaled A6 sheet is actually printed on an A4 sheet of paper - ie. four times the area. However, as the printed area is only approximately three times that of the 4mm. scale sheet I only charge three times the price. You get a quarter of an A4 sheet of blank waterslide paper free!

 

At the end of the day I don't produce transfers sheets to make money - I have a full-time career for that. I produce transfers that I need and make them available to the widest possible group of modellers - though doing so takes up most of my own modelling time.

 

I'm sorry if the price asked is too high - at least my transfers are available to those who feel differently.

 

Final thought - if you only need one set of D95xx transfers, that leaves 55 sets to sell on to other 7mm. scale modellers.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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What do you get in the detailing bag by the way? Presumably all the brake gear as well as the usual pipes?

 

 

 

Brake gear and sandboxes/pipes. All the bufferbeam pipework is fitted.

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I was looking for allocations from new in the Bath / Bristol region.

 

This might not be unconnected with my 'parallel universe' theory that at least one D95xx was tried out on the S&D Highbridge Branch. (In that universe, the S&D was NOT closed as it was in our unfortunate reality)!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

A decent handful of Bristol-based locos then mate. D9500/2/3/4/5/25/6/7/8/53/4/5 all from new so with differing longevities until the S&D closed. I'm quite happy with your reasoning that if the Forest of Dean had these beasts writhing about in it, then the coal-hauls of the north Somerset field could justify some 0-6-0DH action.... I mean, in my alt.reality, the Waverley Route will be host to a displaced example, captive to a superannuated branch line that's barely clinging to life itself.

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I was looking for allocations from new in the Bath / Bristol region.

Invisible ink :( :( or should that be invisible link ... posted one above and 20 minutes before. :(

 

I'm pretty certain the S&D option has also been discussed before .. with no factual evidence (just like Scotland! certainly in BR guise)

But then, as always, it's your layout and so they could in theory run anywhere.

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Brake gear and sandboxes/pipes. All the bufferbeam pipework is fitted.

Ok thanks, I had noticed it fitted on the hattons pictures and wondered if its all there.

 

I know what you mean CK, I'm in exactly the same place. Of course the 'easy' way round it is when craig does his revised cab etch (no pressure craig, no pressure), he could do an overlay for the bufferbeam. Take the buffers/couplings out, and the etch drops over using the existing buffers as locating aids. You still have to paint it, but its all in one piece ... Wonder if he can beat CCT's delivery time? ;)

Nah my replacement bits would only be for the Bachmann one..(see how I passed the buck there ;)). I've just done 10ft brake gear along with this long low to go with my latest attempt at brake lever guards anyway!

 

Seriously though I expect Brian at Shawplan will eventually do something for this but for me personally its not worth the money. The class 14 would look nice in my S.Wales timeframe but its not a core loco I must have so I can hold on.

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Can anyone point me at a list of the allocations of the D95xx class from new, please?

 

Many thanks in anticipation.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

Don't know if this is of help but I wrote up a list for D95xx's, on the Farish class 14 thread back in November.

 

Reminds me I must get around to finishing a similair list for them in industrial use

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=9923

 

Trevor

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Of course the 'easy' way round it is when craig does his revised cab etch (no pressure craig, no pressure), he could do an overlay for the bufferbeam. Take the buffers/couplings out, and the etch drops over using the existing buffers as locating aids

That's a really excellent notion! ;)

 

 

Seriously though I expect Brian at Shawplan will eventually do something for this

That would make all the difference between me getting one or not, I suspect...

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I'm pretty certain the S&D option has also been discussed before .. with no factual evidence

'Captain's Whimsey' notwithstanding, there's no evidence that the Class 14s worked over the S&D before it closed, although I suppose they may have handled the Coop Siding coal trip after the main line closed, they certainly worked down the Midland line to Bath Green Park goods.

 

I think it's unlikely that a Class 14 would have worked down the S&D pre-March 1966, as the traincrew that signed the S&D probably only signed steam, unless individual men who were transferring to other depots upon the closure of the S&D, had already started to learn 'new' traction (although that in itself is unlikely, as traction training has never generally been done until a person actually starts work at the new depot).

 

For any diesel to work over the S&D when it was open, you'd have probably needed a S&D-based driver to conduct the Class 14 driver, hardly an economic state of affairs when you could just use a steam loco from Bath Green Park or Templecombe etc.

 

I can't specifically recall whether I've seen any photos of them working demolition trains on the S&D, unlike Class 22s and 08s. You need to bear in mind that for those duties, some of the turns were worked by Yeovil men, and it remains to be seen whether they signed Class 14s....

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A decent handful of Bristol-based locos then mate. D9500/2/3/4/5/25/6/7/8/53/4/5 all from new so with differing longevities until the S&D closed.....

 

Perfick !!

 

I had already printed a complete set of new insignia for D9500 - (and I've not yet received my model!) - and then got to thinking that perhaps that particular prototype went nowhere near Bristol and its surroundings.

 

I can now proceed with confidence !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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I'm sorry if the price asked is too high - at least my transfers are available to those who feel differently.

 

Final thought - if you only need one set of D95xx transfers, that leaves 55 sets to sell on to other 7mm. scale modellers.

 

As I said, I'm not quibbling about the price for what is actually provided, John; 18GBP for so many numbers is really very good- it's just that I only want one set, and I know that no transfer supplier on Earth is going to do a sheet like that!!

It had crossed my mind that the rest could be sold on... but I don't think I even know 55 other O scalers, let alone 55 also making Class 14s..!!! biggrin.gif blink.gif

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Hi

 

Mine arrived today :-) got to work out where all the bits go as the Heljan diagramme is very hard to understand.

But I have test run it and it is very smooth.

Looks good as well.

Plan a video review once I can fully assemble it LOL

 

Here is a preview.

 

 

By the way sorry for my lack of attendance over recent months, I had a personal tragedy in the summer of last year and everything has been upside down.

Just trying to get back to some interests now.

 

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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So glad that yours has the same fault as mine. A little bit of the exhaust cowling is missing. Terry.

 

Mine too - underfilled mould. I can attend to that, though.

 

Unfortunately, my accessory pack didn't include any RH brake shoes - just three loose LH ones.

 

Hattons say they are seeking to get spares from Heljan but, if they're not forthcoming quickly, mine's going back for replacement.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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We're getting dangerously close to the "postie's just put the mag through the letterbox" kind of update. Shush! Better tone it down before we attract a moderator. ;)

 

Gents, can I just highlight Pete's point here, and his very apt comparison - several inconsequential posts have now been deleted from this topic.

 

Thanks.

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Mine too - underfilled mould. I can attend to that, though.

 

Unfortunately, my accessory pack didn't include any RH brake shoes - just three loose LH ones.

 

Hattons say they are seeking to get spares from Heljan but, if they're not forthcoming quickly, mine's going back for replacement.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

I am of to check my accessory pack.

 

Terry.

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Dont suppose anyone has managed to get one apart to put the headcodes in , i havent a clue how to get the cab moulding off which is needed to come off first?

 

EDIT , Mine also has the little gap behind the exhust port , nothing a bit of Milliput cant cure!

 

Mark

 

 

Just pull the cab firmly upwards.

 

PS, mine has the gap as well.

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Mine has now had an hour on the Bachrus rollers and running is much improved.

 

Still just a suggestion of 'knock' or 'surge' as the heels rotate - I'd guess excessive clearance in the bearing holes in the rods - there's an amazing amount of backlash rotation in the flycrank and the drivers under the short bonnet.

 

Is it just me, or are the coupling rodds a bit 'undernourished'? They certainly look rather 'spindlier' than in photos of the prototype. Perhaps a coat of 'greasy steel' paint will help to remedy this?

 

Niggles apart, though - basically a nice model.

 

I'll just defer replacing the insignia until after Hattons supply the missing and replacement parts, in case I ultimately need to send the whole thing back for replacment.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Dont suppose anyone has managed to get one apart to put the headcodes in , i havent a clue how to get the cab moulding off which is needed to come off first?

 

I wonder if the headcode glazing can be 'pinged out' from the exterior by prizing it carefully with the point of a scalpel blade?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Arrived this morning, test run and in bits already. The buffer beam comes off fairly easily, just ease the retaining collars off the back of the buffers (watch where they ping to) the buffers come out with their springs, then slide a knife carefully in behind the buffer beam itself. That hole needs filling in and the buffer holes will be drilled through so the buffers push back fully with squares of plasticard counter drilled a smaller size behind and the buffer collars glued back on.

 

 

DSCN4069.jpg

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Mine arrived today with the front buffer beam already detached and the 2 buffers and fittings just floating around in the plastic protective box, however only one buffer spring .The Liverpool supplier said that they had no spares parts and suggested that I ring Howes as the spring seem to be a standard Heljan sizes.

 

Also as a Southern Man can anyone tell me where the 2 parts # 49 fit they look like a Celtic Cross with a pip on the back ?, Sorry I did ask Hatton??™s when I rang but got no guidance!

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...can anyone tell me where the 2 parts # 49 fit they look like a Celtic Cross with a pip on the back ?

 

Parts 49? Are they on your detail parts sprue?

 

My still sealed bag contains :-

 

0 x Part 50 - RH brake hanger (acknowledged as missing by Hattons)

 

3 x Part 51 - LH brake hanger

 

1 x Part 89 - brake rodding

 

1 x Part 98 - LH sandbox

 

1 x Part 99 - RH sandbox

 

There is also a separate back containing 2 x auto-couplers

 

I have no other fittings - am I missing something else?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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A Word of warning when anyone is fitting there headcodes, the light bleeds around the headcodes once you have put them in and is good to paint the inside of the Headcode Glass matt black Apart from where the actual headcodes go, ive done this to my 14 and it makes it better as does painting the pick ups.

 

Mark

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