Heljan Class 14s for Hattons

[Captain Kernow]

You can see mine working here on tight curves.

Mike - super review - really helpful, many thanks for taking the trouble to do that! :icon_thumbsup2:

[RedgateModels]

One NCB class 14 is on its way back to Liverpool today, the unattached bits I could cope with, a bit of glue would sort it but I test ran it last night and it's rubbish - camel's back duly broken it's on it's way back.

 

Oh and both locos had end door handles missing

 

I bet Hattons are a tad miffed with Heljan's quality control .....

[Andy Y]

I've spoken to Hattons and out of the significant number of locos despatched this week there have been few notifications of any issues as yet. It may be opportune to remind members and readers that the best way of resolving any issue is to contact Hattons directly so that any problems can be addressed as opposed to adding 'me too' content to what has already been posted.

 

Thanks,

 

 

[Pennine MC]

Everyone is talking about this loco, but not a lot is being said about the miss moulded exhaust.

 

 

And how to rectify the defect which is a liveable defect. I am sure that there those people with the weathering skills can disguise it.

 

 

It has been mentioned, earlier in the thread. But hey, you can't weather over fresh air - calls for a spot of filling with either Plasticard slivers and/or um, filler...

[The Stationmaster]

Going back to my earlier comments does anybody know a source of the correct colour paint for the cab please.

 

While I agree with Pennine that it's not too far off I would prefer the proper colour - before it gets a new number and emblem plus some some mild dirtying.

[cctransuk]

Going back to my earlier comments does anybody know a source of the correct colour paint for the cab please.

 

While I agree with Pennine that it's not too far off I would prefer the proper colour - before it gets a new number and emblem plus some some mild dirtying.

 

Well, I have to say - (and I saw the prototype brand new at Swindon) - Heljan have got it spot-on.

 

This colour is not to be confused with Sherwood Green, as used on the bottom half of Brush Type 4s, amongst other things. It was much more of a grey / green, as is the Heljan rendition.

 

As to the darker BR green on D9500, I'd say it's a bit on the blue side - but not much. I'll see how it responds to a little gloss varnish as I want my model ex-works.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[RedgateModels]

I've spoken to Hattons and out of the significant number of locos despatched this week there have been few notifications of any issues as yet. It may be opportune to remind members and readers that the best way of resolving any issue is to contact Hattons directly so that any problems can be addressed as opposed to adding 'me too' content to what has already been posted.

 

Thanks,

 

Well said Andy, I would urge all owners of class 14s with faults to report them to Hattons, even if they are happy to fix them themselves and have no other reason to call. Hattons need to know the bigger picture so that they can report back to Heljan.

[cctransuk]

Well said Andy, I would urge all owners of class 14s with faults to report them to Hattons, even if they are happy to fix them themselves and have no other reason to call. Hattons need to know the bigger picture so that they can report back to Heljan.

 

Just a word for Hattons - after a little initial reluctance, they got the missing parts out to me within two days.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[brian daniels]

Everyone is talking about this loco, but not a lot is being said about the miss moulded exhaust.

 

 

 

This what it should look like, round with a bit on the side.

[Trainshed Terry]

I am eating humble pie and bowing to the power of the RMweb members. That is the first shot of the exhaust pipe of the real thing as all photos in books just show photos from the ground level. :icon_wow: :icon_wow: :icon_surprised:

 

Well done that man for posting that picture. :icon_e_smile: :icon_e_smile: :icon_e_smile:

 

Terry. :icon_frustrated: :icon_frustrated: :icon_frustrated:

[cctransuk]

I am eating humble pie and bowing to the power of the RMweb members. That is the first shot of the exhaust pipe of the real thing as all photos in books just show photos from the ground level. :icon_wow: :icon_wow: :icon_surprised:

 

Well done that man for posting that picture. :icon_e_smile: :icon_e_smile: :icon_e_smile:

 

Terry. :icon_frustrated: :icon_frustrated: :icon_frustrated:

 

Go steady on the humble pie! The model is still not moulded correctly.

 

I can't decide if it's a mis-moulded attempt to incorporate the smaller diameter pipe or just an intentional cop-out.

 

Anyway, I can now correct mine with a couple of bits of brass tube and some Milliput.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[mikesndbs]

Go steady on the humble pie! The model is still not moulded correctly.

 

I can't decide if it's a mis-moulded attempt to incorporate the smaller diameter pipe or just an intentional cop-out.

 

Anyway, I can now correct mine with a couple of bits of brass tube and some Milliput.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

Hi

 

Do you think this is a missing part on the model? it would seem to be a very clumsy mistake if not.

 

 

Mike

[Pennine MC]

This what it should look like, round with a bit on the side.

 

Excellent pic Brian, thanks. I was hoping somebody would answer this conundrum before long :icon_thumbsup2:

 

 

While I agree with Pennine that it's not too far off I would prefer the proper colour - before it gets a new number and emblem plus some some mild dirtying.[/i]

 

Mine of course will be in that special finish that Dairycoates applied

[reevesthecat]

Put my blue one on the E-Z rollers for a couple of hours this afternoon. Bit noisy but seems to run well, on inspection all parts appear to be in the bag. Quite happy with it- yet to chip it and add the headcodes but that can wait for now.

mark

[Pennine MC]

Quick query, having just started to play with our two - are people having more hesitancy/lumping when running with the long bonnet leading, rather than the short?

[Trevor H]

Quick query, having just started to play with our two - are people having more hesitancy/lumping when running with the long bonnet leading, rather than the short?

 

Ian,

 

Have a look at my earlier post #298

 

Came across the same problem and while I had it all stripped down noticed counter gear was rubbing, rectification made a huge improvement, trouble is it's not easy to get to.

 

I also think a good running in could rectify or at least improve.

 

Trevor

[Brian Kirby]

Hi Everyone,

Well i changed my mind and bought one, alas it arrived with broken front handrails and cab step. Also, i later discovered that both coupling rods were upside down, in other words, the complete wheelset assembly had been put in upside down. Look carefully, notice the crankpin lubricators pointing down !

I checked the running, seemed o.k.-ish, so i decided to keep it, reverse the wheelsets and repair the body. It does look very nice, but the chassis could be improved. First of all i wanted to reduce the excessive sideways slop in the outside axles and the cranks. I didn't want to take the wheels apart, for fear of breaking the thin and delicate coupling rods. I just used strips of black 40 thou (1mm.) plasticard, mounted outside the frames on the outside axles and inside the frames on the middle axle. These strips also now hold the wheels in, so i could dispense with the original keeper plate. I couldn't put strips behind the cranks without binding, so i used fibre washers glued to the axle, inside the frames.

 

 

This has given an improvement in running, but now i've altered it even further, to become a compensated chassis. More pics to follow.

Cheers, Brian.

[Brian Kirby]

Here's the "Mk2" version, giving the chassis a simple form of compensation. This is quite a long wheelbase loco and compensation will ensure that all six wheels will be touching the track, thus improving power pick-up, which is vital in a loco with fewer wheels. It will also increase the adhesion, i.e. the pulling power.

Starting at the crank end, i deepened the hornblocks and added a plastic rounded rocking beam inside the frames. The 40 thou strips are now relocated above the bearings, but still on the outside to restrict the sideplay. The original keeper plate makes a comeback and is chopped into short pieces to retain the axle. This clips back in.

 

 

At the other end, i deepen the hornblocks and twist the pick-ups around to become the new wheel springs, again 40 thou strips are relocated above the bearings and a chopped piece of keeper plate clips back in.

 

 

Here's the completed rebuild with the two short pieces of keeper plate refitted.

Cheers, Brian.

[Trevor H]

This what it should look like, round with a bit on the side.

 

Hi Brian,

 

Do you know if this is a modification or did they all carry it, as I was looking at a picture of D9514 and although nowhere near as clear as your excellent shot, it seems to not have the second pipe.

 

Trevor.

[brian daniels]

I don't know if it was there from new or not Trevor. All the ones around now seem to have it.

[Guest Max Stafford]

Mine's a bit lumpy. I put it down to the jackshaft flycranks and the play in them. I might need to shim them out.

 

Dave.

[Pennine MC]

After careful consideration and trial running, mine and Bri's are going back for replacement. One of them will not run slowly (long bonnet leading) without lunging, the other is admittedly smoother but has a persistent mechanical click in both directions; I appreciate the reasons may be those mentioned earlier but if they're deep in the drivetrain, then at this stage I think we can do better. I dont doubt there are things that can be done to mitigate the inherent slop and I'm prepared to spend time fettling a model that's basically good to start with, but as Tim says, sometimes you get that feeling that this could be as good as it gets

 

Also there are no sandboxes on one and no nose door catches on t'other, as some others have mentioned; not a show stopper, but not brilliant either. Hattons so far look like being helpful, I sent an e-mail at 10 last night and got a reply within twenty minutes

[Adam]

Hmm. Perhaps I've been lucky, since mine seems to be complete, fairly smooth and cooperative. Having been at mine with a wheel puller and brought the back-to-backs out to EM, I've found it a decent runner, though I will have to get at least some of that excessive lateral slop (now magnified of course) sorted - thanks for the pointers on that Mr Kirby. That lighting needs toning down too! There seem to be far too many variables in the design to get consistent running across the batch if feedback on here is to be regarded as representative.

 

Adam

[Pete Piszczek]

There's a lot to like with this model, D9500 arrived in one piece, except for one of the small black spigot looking things that are underneath. All the parts were there, cosmetically excellent, although one of the cab steps is loose, easy fix. The fine mesh material behind the steps is great, Bachmann should take notice of this. The packaging is also top notch, foam around the plastic cradle, this should be mandatory for all the locos from Bachmann/Hornby. The connecting rods look anemic, a couple of coats of thickish paint may be an improvement.

 

Long hood forward running on the rollers was reasonable quiet, but it waddled like a duck. Small hood forward was much smoother but there was a distinct growl. Ran for 30 minutes each way, didn't really seem to smooth out much, low speed running was poor. Then it stopped. Apply DC either direction and the unit quickly draws over an amp. The wheels and motion are still free moving so it isn't a jam on the bottom side.

 

I wasn't going to crack the loco open, I have enough disassembled locos on the workbench already. If the Clayton remotoring project hadn't left such a bad taste in my mouth, there'd be more of a willingness to dissect and fix. It will cost almost $20 to ship it back; postage is still owed on a previous return. Curiosity may get the better of me though, why'd it stop... :icon_frustrated:

 

Spent an hour last night with a Stone IPA while studying the model and prototype photos. I've convinced myself that if you shave the rain strip off above the cab windows, and put a finer, thinner strip up a bit higher, you can go a very long way in resolving the cab side issues.

 

There is a "looking down" builder's photo of D9500 in my collection. It only shows one large hole on the exhaust housing...

[PhilH]

There's a lot to like with this model, D9500 arrived in one piece

 

I find it amazing that this is worthy of comment. Are our expectations slipping - surely this should be an absolute given?