Fireline Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hi all. Mine finally arrived at the weekend after numerous arguments with the couriers. As soon as I got it out of the box I found that one of the handrails was detached on the shunter's steps. Do these detach normally, or is this a fault that needs rectifying? I am loath to lean on it and break it completely if it turns out I shouldn't have been touching it at all!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrcolin Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hi, I have fitted the headcodes on mine and there is the noticalbe light bleed that i have seen mentioned a few times does anyone have any pictures of how they have solved this. best wishes colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 15, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 15, 2010 A word of warning to those who are proposing to renumber D9500 using the traditional method of rubbing off the old number with isopropyl alcohol and a wooden cocktail stick. It would appear that Heljan's body paint is more suscepible to the alcohol than their lettering paint. I found that the paint around the numbers disappeared before the numbers - much cursing ensued! Suffice to say that the cab sides, front and ends required an overall coat of a concoction based on SR Light Olive, Rail Grey, with a dab of BR Yellow Green and a touch of Humbrol Matt Bright Green. Colour matching consisted of a dab of the mixture onto the cabside, which was quickly assessed for shade and then wiped of immediately. This way you can check, adjust and clean off until you're satisfied. All a real PITA !! Oh - and another word to the wise - the windscreen wipers ping off into oblivion at the touch of an adjacent paintbrush. Not a relaxing session !! Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I've shimmed out the crank on either side and it's helped somewhat. Slow speed running is still not as it should be. The model doesn't stall, which is good as it means the pick-ups are doing the job right, but I still have diametrically opposed tight spots which I think point to Pete's crank back thing. I shall try this next. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Regarding the cranks, you can either use Pete's method of packing shims behind the cranks,although as he says, you'll have to grind down the back of the projecting crankpins. Or there's the way i did it, by fitting cut fibre washers to the crank axle, inside the frames, and carefully supergluing on the inner side of each. I actually used two cut washers either side, in case the glue seeped. Anybody else worked out another way of doing it, without taking the axles apart ? Whichever way, it stops the cranks from flailing around wildly and keeps the rods straighter. It should also be o.k. still on sharp curves. Is this the quick cure for Heljan ? Cheers, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 What I've actually done is a kind of fusion of the two ideas. I have placed three fibre washers each side behind the cranks which has taken most of the side movement away. I may have to file the back of the pin as you say. It's probably causing the tight spot. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Pannier Tank Posted February 15, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 15, 2010 Looks like Ultrascale will be doing a drop in replacement wheelset for the Heljan Class 14. From: David (Ultrascale) - 13 Feb 2010 (david@...) Having now had a good look over the prototype at the NVR. We will now be looking at producing a drop-in conversion pack for this model as soon as we are able, we will also be look at producing the drive crank, so this can also be supplied along with the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Replacement received today. All seems well, drivetrain is less notchy and all bits are attached (barring the nose door catches, which by some miracle I fould floating around in the cellophane wrapper). Pleased but dreading stripping it to do DCC and fit the headcodes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkea1 Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Looks like Ultrascale will be doing a drop in replacement wheelset for the Heljan Class 14. From: David (Ultrascale) - 13 Feb 2010 (david@...) Having now had a good look over the prototype at the NVR. We will now be looking at producing a drop-in conversion pack for this model as soon as we are able, we will also be look at producing the drive crank, so this can also be supplied along with the wheels. It gets better than that! Subsequent postings on the Ultrascale website: From: David (Ultrascale) - 19 Feb 2010 (david@...) We have now started on the conversion for the Heljan Class 14. It will take longer to complete as we have decided to produce a new wheel specially for this model, this wheel will include moulded balance weights, so there will be no need for the modeller to add these after the conversion has been fitted. Also, if you would like one for you model, send us an email stating the gauge required and once the conversion is complete we run all the requested ones off in one go to reduce the lead time on it. and From: David (Ultrascale) - 22 Feb 2010 (david@...) We are currently thinking of adding the option of steel tyres for this conversion. However, this will depend on if there is enough call for this option. Therefore, please add this to your email of interest for this conversion, should steel tyres be something that you would like. I know before from correspondance with Ultrascale that they were originally planning to use an "almost right" wheel in their range, but this is great news that we're now going to be getting a new, correct, wheel with balance weights. I'd urge anyone who is likely to want a set of these to fire an email off to Ultrascale as soon as possible indicating their interest. Cheers Alastair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2010 Much earlier in this thread I cast doubt upon another poster's suggestion that there is far too much of a footplate overhang in front of the bonnets. I take it all back !! Having seen the large broadside photo in the feature on the D9500s in the March issue of the Hornby Magazine, it is clear that the front of the bonnets, the marker lights, and the bufferbeam should all line up. What proves the point is that the 'box' below the footplate behind the long bonnet end bufferbeam is very noticeably too wide on the model. Some surgery required, methinks! I've a feeling that the operating marker lights will have to be sacrificed as they are backed by the PCB. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Hi Here is a simple low cost way to deal with the extra side play in the drive cranks. 10mins, no stripping down and about £1 Cheers Mike 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hi Here is a simple low cost way to deal with the extra side play in the drive cranks. 10mins, no stripping down and about £1 Cheers Mike Excellent tutorial as ever. I shall be putting it into practice as the jackshaft play is probably the wrost thing about the chassis, design wise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 23, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2010 DCC sound project nearly finished now, just fiddling round the edges with horns and auxilliary sounds etc, the basics are there. It's getting an outing tonight at the Mickleover club (if anyone's running DCC) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Excellent tutorial as ever. I shall be putting it into practice as the jackshaft play is probably the wrost thing about the chassis, design wise. Thanks, let us know how you get on Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I've dealt with the problom of the too bright headcode lights by painting over the LEDs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire001 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 I'm counting myself as pretty lucky; after a hesitant start mine runs well. I'm not brave enough to chop at things like the rainstrip and footplate, so I'm accepting them as 'near enough'. Ditto the cabside numbers - I know my limits and repainting the cab would probably end up with it looking worse than when I started! Don't like the way details keep falling off. Found a brake pipe on my desk, re-secured with superglue. Sandbox found in the ballast, secured with Evo-stick. Bonnet catch caught in finger nail and went into orbit. Replaced with piece of plastic strip. As suggested elsewhere, I painted the back rim of the headcode lenses black and covered the lens with two layers of yellow transparent toffee wrapper. (Quality Street toffee pennies!) Tones down the blinding white light to something more like a tungsten bulb. Picked out the dials in the cab with black paint - see "Pictorial Record of the Diesel Shunter" for interior picture and fitted a demobbed Airfix commando. Empty cabs really 'bug' me! Black paint also on the copper pickups and rear of burrerbeams black. Finally as suggested a few pages back, remove the hook from the tension lock coupling to it does not foul the scale coupling. Might go back and look at this on Falcon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted February 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2010 I have two of these little beauties. Tried fitting a decoder to one last night - Bachmann 36553, fitted under the PCB, just, but the bonnet then wouldn't fit flush. Will have to have a go with a smaller decoder. What decoder has everyone else fitted? Have little memory of the prototype (except seeing them in Industrial service in the 1970s), but my grandfather used to cadge a lift occassionally with a "Teddy bear" home from work (Bath road) and was dropped off close to his home near Mangotsfield. I think they were common locos on the Midland branch to Bath in the 1960s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 I have two of these little beauties. Tried fitting a decoder to one last night - Bachmann 36553, fitted under the PCB, just, but the bonnet then wouldn't fit flush. Will have to have a go with a smaller decoder. What decoder has everyone else fitted? I fitted a Hornby one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted February 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2010 Did the lights work with the decoder installed? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2010 I think they were common locos on the Midland branch to Bath in the 1960s I'd agree with that, not from memories but from various published works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2010 quick update on the sound chip, it's all done apart from a few extra sounds. I'm waiting for my expert 14 driver to hear it before I'm happy though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Not even sure what these sound like to be honest!!!! Is the Paxman engine a high speed lump like the Maybach and MAN ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2010 it's a bit class 20ish, in that there's some turbo whistle, nowhere near as bad though, you can tell it's a hydraulic, it's got that characteristic fluid sound. some examples are here - click on the 14 link and download the sounds. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluex5 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Thanks for the link..I'm quite partial to things that whistle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdaysydney Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Did the lights work with the decoder installed? Chris Hi Chris, I fitted a Hornby decoder with no problems. If the loco is working but not the lights you may have put the decoder plug in the wrong way around. The orange wire should align with the 1 or arrow on the board Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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