RBE Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Thanks Jack. I might make a start on weathering it later. Always settles a livery in a bit of grime. The buxton beasts were notoriously mucky it has to be said. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Hi Cav, looking good, I always liked 37s in Redstripe Railfreight. I keep picturing Buxton 37s, be it construction or Redstripe Railfreight, working the PCAs to New Southwich but Will is having none of it! Seeing your superb 37s got me searching the internet and I found these, hope you don’t mind: Not strictly the same as it is a 37/3 but you get the idea: Love this pair: http://www.chrisaddisphotography.com/weardale-cement#photo 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBM37404 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 This was my effort on a Buxton 37/5 in Redstripe (In 00) With the your skills Cav I cant wait to see the two 37s after your done with them!! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Hi Cav The red stripe tractors looking good. Is it the photo or have you used the faded red on the lower stripe. If you have it looks spot on as it always went that pinky colour after a few years. Glad you did do the three tone version though as it is an excellent job. Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) Haha no I used rail red which is the correct colour albeit oranger than youd think. The red as used by Bachmann is actually too red. I know what you mean about the photo though but its the table reflecting off the gloss finish. I think I may well fade it pinker when I weather it, I have to go steady though as red stripe rf 37s werent that long since painted in 1988! Edited January 22, 2014 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Very nice Cav, I will need a couple of red stripe ones in OO me thinks, haha Looking great mate. BTW are you going to Stafford? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Red stripe 37s are always a winner. I wasn't planning on going no. I'm off to Ponty this weekend though. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 I thought I would do a little step by step of how I weather this beast. Im a bit of a post a before and after type person without any of the intermedite steps. Frankly its because during the intermediate time the loco or stock looks rubbish. Its a bit like the artist who has his sheet over his canvas. Anyway instead I thought on this I would share those middle stages. If nothing it allows people wanting to try weathering not to be disheartened when the loco starts to look rubbish. Its the nature of art that the final picture doesnt come together until all the layers are on. Hence my hate of one media weathering i.e. just airbrushed or just poweder or just washes etc. You need it all to get the proper effect. Anyway I digress. This is a pic of the 37 after applying the first washes. This is not applied as an overall wash as that would just darken the paintwork as a whole and thats not what we want. We want lighter paint if anything to show fade. The idea here is to mark in false shadow in any recesses (necessary on models as panel joints and the like are much smaller than the real loco and the light getting trapped in them is still the same scale as light waves cannot be scaled down. This means that the light isnt trapped by the surface releif like it is in the full sized loco. Even more the case in N). So regardless of dirt we need to darken any panel lines and recesses with a wash applied with a fine brush directly into the feature. I have done this with all of the vents, raised edges and panel lines on this. I have also added an all over wash to the roof as a base for airbrushing and powders later. When applying to grilles it works best to block them in with pure thinners before adding the wash. The wash then evenly runs across the vent/grill. All of this is best done whilst the body is still in gloss finish as washes tend to just spread over the surface of matt paint by capillary action of the rough surface. Although looking poor at the mo, Im happy with it. Next I will matt varnish the loco before moving on to airbrushed grime. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Excellent mate, a great how to and one im tempted to use on my 00 RF red stripe 37 although you do such a good job on the weathering on locos its hard not to post it off to you. Think i will post it off hahaha Great job mate looking forward to seeing some in the flesh at Mansfield maybe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Cheers Neil, I will post up the next installment when its done. I will need to do the matt varnish and let that dry first though before adding airbrushed paint. I will bring them over to Mansfield for a look if you like. They are very nice in person. Small and cute haha Edited January 23, 2014 by RBE 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted January 23, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2014 The idea here is to mark in false shadow in any recesses (necessary on models as panel joints and the like are much smaller than the real loco and the light getting trapped in them is still the same scale as light waves cannot be scaled down. This means that the light isn't trapped by the surface relief like it is in the full sized loco. Even more the case in N). So regardless of dirt we need to darken any panel lines and recesses with a wash applied with a fine brush directly into the feature. Cav, that's the clearest and most useful explanation I've read, anywhere, on why you need to add shadow. Thank you Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Cheers Neil, I will post up the next installment when its done. I will need to do the matt varnish and let that dry first though before adding airbrushed paint. I will bring them over to Mansfield for a look if you like. They are very nice in person. Small and cute haha That would be great mate cheers I will try and get mine posted off this weekend so its ready for mansfield, still not got the 25 or 37 chipped yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Cav, thanks for part one! I have always admired your weathering so to get a detailed insight into "the dark art" is most appreciated. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) Thanks Al and Sam, I know many people know the techniques but I wonder how many people know the reasons why they exist or are used. The false shadow technique is a cracker as everything should be done with it as a base at least. Ever wonder why ex works models look wrong if just left clean from the box? Shadow, they dont have any so look flat and toy like. Actually ex works is the hardest to pull off because you need to apply pretty much only false shadow. Not easy. You see a lot of weathering jobs undertaken using techniques with little regard as to why they are using them and whether the technique is appropriate for the item being weathered. I suppose to the layman these techniques look ok because it makes the subject look mucky but once you know how things get dirty or corrode then incorrectly applied weathering no matter how well done looks wrong. Edited January 24, 2014 by RBE 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classsix T Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thanks Al and Sam, I know many people know the techniques but I wonder how many people know the reasons why they exist or are used. The false shadow technique is a cracker as everything should be done with it as a base at least. Ever wonder why ex works models look wrong if just left clean from the box? Shadow, they dont have any so look flat and toy like. Actually ex works is the hardest to pull off because you need to apply pretty much only false shadow. Not easy. You see a lot of weathering jobs undertaken using techniques with little regard as to why they are using them and whether the technique is appropriate for the item being weathered. I suppose to the layman these techniques look ok because it makes the subject look mucky but once you know how things get dirty or corrode then incorrectly applied weathering no matter how well done looks wrong. I hope you've been asked to lecture/demo at RMWeb Live Cav, it seems obvious, but how many times do you see "tiger-stripe" oil stains? Keep on keeping on Cav, you're a champion of our cause. C6T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) All too often on models. Not so often on the real locos. Thanks for the compliments though, I would love to lecture but not been asked. I am considering writing a book though at some point, so that may happen!? Edited January 24, 2014 by RBE 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Ok as promised a run through on bogie lifting. Step one, cut off the four corners of the bogie frame with a scary sharp scalpel as near to the frame as you can. Next flip the bogie right side up and cut the cross beams from the middle portion. It needs cutting where it joins the gear box cover. Notice the cranked beams. This is what helps you. The flat parts which join the frames are going to end up flush with the gearbox bottom. You end up with this. You then need to trim off the cranked bits of the frame crossbeams to get this. Now you need to cut yourself 4No 2.5mm x 10mm strips of thin (10thou I think) plasticard. I use black as I prefer it in stock. But white painted after should do. These are then MEKed onto the bottom of the gearbox where the beams joined on. The bogie frames are then fixed with their little tabs to the top of the plastic strips and the ends to the end stretchers again but a tad higher up. What you end up with is this. Just let the MEK fully dry and clip back on. Job done. I timed the second bogie out of curiosity and it took me 7 minutes which all in means 15mins for the whole loco. Well worth the effort I think! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Cheers Mickey. Ive fancied it for a while. Anyway a couple of pics for Branchie! 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Thanks for taking the time to post the step by step. I've no excuse now! As for the pics of the bridge - looking superb. What stands out to me is the consistency of the paintwork on the loco, wagons and bridge - this standard across the whole layout will be a show stopper. Please keep updates comings! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 That looks fantastic. If you could Photoshop it against a real background, it would look real. Amazing that it is N gauge. The variations in colour of the wagons is so convincing. I will be following with great interest as the layout progresses. Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Superb Cav, first class modelling Sir. love the 47. Can I request a photo of a construction 60 on bogie hoppers!!! Please! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 You can Alex however I have neither at the mo to set one up. Still not sure if a 60 will make an appearance at some point. The model is really nice but falls outside the timeframe by 2 years. Hmmm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Looking brilliant David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted January 25, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2014 Simply stunning Cav! Still can't believe that this is 2mm!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Looks pretty dam good mate, have you put it across the boards too, that would be a cool pic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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