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Millers Dale in the 80s - BR Peak Line in N


RBE
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Ok as promised a run through on bogie lifting.

 

Step one, cut off the four corners of the bogie frame with a scary sharp scalpel as near to the frame as you can.

attachicon.gif20140124_221652.jpg

 

Next flip the bogie right side up and cut the cross beams from the middle portion. It needs cutting where it joins the gear box cover. Notice the cranked beams. This is what helps you. The flat parts which join the frames are going to end up flush with the gearbox bottom.

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You end up with this.

attachicon.gif20140124_221921.jpg

 

You then need to trim off the cranked bits of the frame crossbeams to get this.

attachicon.gif20140124_222007.jpg

 

Now you need to cut yourself 4No 2.5mm x 10mm strips of thin (10thou I think) plasticard. I use black as I prefer it in stock. But white painted after should do. These are then MEKed onto the bottom of the gearbox where the beams joined on.

attachicon.gif20140124_222713.jpg

 

The bogie frames are then fixed with their little tabs to the top of the plastic strips and the ends to the end stretchers again but a tad higher up.

attachicon.gif20140124_223233.jpg

 

What you end up with is this.

attachicon.gif20140124_223349.jpg

 

Just let the MEK fully dry and clip back on. Job done. I timed the second bogie out of curiosity and it took me 7 minutes which all in means 15mins for the whole loco. Well worth the effort I think!

Hi Cav, could you please tell me where you get your 10 thou plasticard from. As i can only find white and would prefer black.

 

Regards Steve.

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Ebay chap. I think it was station road baseboards but not sure now. I think I actually used 20thou on the bogie mod though thinking back. There are a number of sellers doing black from 10thou up so no shortage on there.

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Nice work with the signal! The MSE counter balance arms are very fine, but it is possible to have them working. You just need to be careful you don't put too much stress on them through excessive arm movement or the brass can split at the top and bottom edges of the opening the wire passes through. Use the thinest wire you are comfortable with for the visible portion of the signal, but beef it up with brass tube underneath the board for extra strength.

 

Tom.

 

Thanks Tom. Im just very cautious about the very thin brass once drilled. I hsve broken much more robust things at exhibitions and if that goes would be a major repair at a show. Im thinking I may make a row of fine tube offcuts soldered together to make the pivots and actuator wire holes and then splice the MSE weight ends onto that. There will be enough beef then in the parts that the wires go through not to break hopefully and the weight will be able to do its thing on the end. Food for thought. Edited by RBE
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Lovely signal Cav, I think I would rather have a fixed balance weight with the operating rod running up behind it and have better reliability, I've had 4mm balance arms break on me.

 

That was my thoughts TBH. Reliability over a minor moving part wins over I think.

 

Cracking little signal, love it!

Cheers Al. Ill get some paint on it soon and then itll look like a proper un.

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Cheers chaps. I was just reading your blog regarding easitrac etc and I do very much sympathise. My choice was based on cost really. To rewheel all of my intended stock for MD would be far too much to outweigh the benefits in my opinion. I can also still use peco for the fiddles which I always feel a waste of precious modelling time if I have to build track in there too! I am hoping to get the track down soon on this board. I will then have a chance to see trains moving I guess! Heres a little pic I took of the rf grey 37 on the arched viaduct wooden former. The scale wasnt so apparent I dont think in the far away shot but notice how small the arches looked from far away compared to when you get a loco on there!!

 

post-6894-0-00511300-1391615452_thumb.jpg

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This is fantastic stuff. Seeing this thread has got me seriously thinking about having an dabble with some Finetrax and N gauge stock before I completely commit to OO gauge; I've never owned any N gauge in the past and have never really 'clocked' it before. I have now!

 

Anyone here know of a list or thread going through which RTR locos are good 'uns and which are to be avoided (thinking diesel)

 

Will keep watching progress in the Dale with great interest.

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Much apprieciated everyone. Its not until you actually get something sat in place that you fully become aware of what the layout will be like. The first thing that was apparent to me was how small the trains are in this size of landscape! That 47 there is tiny!! I have a few tweaks to do on the wooden formers before I can clad them as when theywere cut I made a couple of errors. Should I say, ommissions. The south end support needed its end trimming a further 5mm to match the rest and the baseboard platform. At present its about 5mm high. I also forgot to trim a line Id marked ob the trackbed of the same piece which has led to the back wall running askew. I will sort these at the weekend as well as cutting the front arches. I was happy to stand behind the layout last night though and see what it will be like to run. Im glad to say that the track is in view which is all I can ask. Not sure whether Masons shuntibg domain will be as 'in view' though as that runs nearer the backscene. He may have to stand to the end perhaps!

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This is fantastic stuff. Seeing this thread has got me seriously thinking about having an dabble with some Finetrax and N gauge stock before I completely commit to OO gauge; I've never owned any N gauge in the past and have never really 'clocked' it before. I have now!

 

Anyone here know of a list or thread going through which RTR locos are good 'uns and which are to be avoided (thinking diesel)

 

Will keep watching progress in the Dale with great interest.

Also this is what its all about. Inspiring others to try!

 

As for locos, pretty much all of the newer stuff is a good buy. The running qualities of the latest faris and Dapol efforts are as good as the OO equivalents IMO. I wouldnt go for the farish 56 though as although they run fine they look very poor indeed.

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I will stand were ever you want me too mate, just to be a part of the running crew will be great as this looks like an awesome build and the makings of a superb layout and it all in N is an even bigger achievement.

Cant wait to get shunting hahaha

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