RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Jerry "oh my god who have I married now" Hall Edit: On the cover of Roxy Music's "Siren" album... Prefer Country Life myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 That's a siren.... the other one is a harpy, or possibly a gold digger. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted February 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Prefer Country Life myself. Just the cover or the music Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Just the cover or the music That would be telling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Or the butter? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Or the butter? or the song? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwF8nXH81Os Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Absolutely - without the randomness coupled to various outbreaks of modelling (I recall some coach soldering about 20 pages back- I may of course be mistaken), I doubt that as a relative newbie I'd have stuck with the forum long enough to gain confidence to reach out (apologies for the business Americanisms) for help. Following yours and Rob's suggestions, my part built coach will now roll around my simple layout. Thanks also to Tony Wright who helped manipulate the body square at the St. Albans show. Photo evidence below, video wouldn't load! I'm well chuffed, pun unintentional, that it works! I'm quite convinced that it's not the best brass coach build there's ever been but you've got to start somewhere.. David By gad sir that is a damn fine job. If I may offer a tip re getting stuff square and if I'm being an ar$e then so be it. With these lovely GWR coaches, Comet often have end steps that are fitted through a set of slots (no sniggering) in the coach end. Do not fit until the whole carkarse is finished. Thus one can set up the side and end on a sawing mitre square thingy This gets the end/side more or less 90*. If you didn't do this in your build send me a PM as I may have some pics somewhere. If you did then no problems as TW would have mentioned how to teak I'm sure. Just wait until you have it burnished up and all the bits are fitted.....lovely. Dicky. Ducky. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Just the cover or the music Or the butter? or the song? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwF8nXH81Os Girls in pearls, possibly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Thanks - this one didn't have the steps for the slots. I was disappointed by that! Had a white metal end to attach to the brass end piece. I used one of those wooden block things for that part - was pretty useful. Yes, am looking forward to getting it nice and shiny! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 And when you do you will not want to paint it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Is disappointed to find that what he thought was a very good M7 from Ebay has a small crack in the left cabside. The rest of it is superb and it works fine so a little superglue has been administered and it won't show once it's covered in crud (hopefully?). The first Fiddle Yard 'storage line' was laid this evening, but that is only about 5 yards as there are points at each end and I need to confirm exactly how those need wiring/joining. As this line is the furthest away from the 'operational space', rather pathetically, after a few attempts, I worked out how to use a mirror to check it wasn't too kinky as I can't look along the length of it end on. My test stock didn't fall off either so it seems to be OK. Only another 5 lengths (*see below) to do so that will take me ages as I'm so slow. I also need to get a grip with the power BUS for this whole section (*probably 3 'up' and 3 'down' storage lines). I'm going to try the on the board surface copper (adhesive) strip method first off. Ducky. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonseasider Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 or the song? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwF8nXH81Os Nice to see someone with good taste in music! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Blue Streak Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Hi Phil, The self adhesive copper strip sounds like a good idea, it's fairly robust and the slot car chaps use it on their routed wood tracks. If it can survive the slot car braids being dragged around on it it should certainly be fine for the purpose of laying there and transmitting power !!! I'm probably reading the wrong threads but it's the first I've heard of anyone using it in the manner you described. There's certainly no reason why someone couldn't use it to power everything (sticking it all across the bottom of baseboards - like a huge printed circuit). It would certainly keep the wiring neat and you would only need very short droppers off the rail at intervals. Has anyone else tried this. I was in to slotcars for years and cant believe I haven't thought to try it with model trains . See what we did there, We talked about model trains for a bit, normal service will resume shortly Kindest regards F. H. Ornby Edited February 2, 2016 by The Blue Streak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2016 I've tried copper adhesive strip, but can't remember where, when or how effective it was. For the PSMT I need two bus bars to connect the reed switches to. I will be using the inner core of some 240v mains cable, one stripped of the insulation, the other the earth wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Hi Phil, The self adhesive copper strip sounds like a good idea, it's fairly robust and the slot car chaps use it on their routed wood tracks. If it can survive the slot car braids being dragged around on it it should certainly be fine for the purpose of laying there and transmitting power !!! I'm probably reading the wrong threads but it's the first I've heard of anyone using it in the manner you described. There's certainly no reason why someone couldn't use it to power everything (sticking it all across the bottom of baseboards - like a huge printed circuit). It would certainly keep the wiring neat and you would only need very short droppers off the rail at intervals. Has anyone else tried this. I was in to slotcars for years and cant believe I haven't thought to try it with model trains . See what we did there, We talked about model trains for a bit, normal service will resume shortly Kindest regards F. H. Ornby This 'tape' will be surface mounted with a protective 'coating' as it is only the fiddle yard and that is going to be temporary for the first few months to see how it works. I'll put a photo up if it ever happens! It will be a sort of web from a main strip. All this behind scenics. Not my idea either as many people have used this tape, but maybe not so many using the surface method. I discovered yesterday that I probably don't need complete power feed to all track in a FY line and I think each one of these FY storage tracks will be isolating sections anyway due to the style of point operation (live frog). I may well resort to Stu's style of BUS as proper wire is less likely to cause problems. I've tried copper adhesive strip, but can't remember where, when or how effective it was. For the PSMT I need two bus bars to connect the reed switches to. I will be using the inner core of some 240v mains cable, one stripped of the insulation, the other the earth wire. Thanks chaps as electrickery, beyond the very basic, is a mystery to me and in fact I've only ever really wired for DCC before and that's relatively simple (apart from layouts many years ago where one just used a Triang Power Clip system and/or relied on rail joiners. Phil Edited February 2, 2016 by Mallard60022 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2016 I use strips of copper clad sleeper, epoxy glued to the underside of the base board, for bus bars. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) I use strips of copper clad sleeper, epoxy glued to the underside of the base board, for bus bars. That's clever. It has actually given me an idea too. Instead of soldering droppers to the sides of rails one could replace an appropriate sleeper with a copper clad strip (soldered to track), slot the c. clad centre and then solder the dropper wires to the copper clad as it receives the solder more easily than the rail in my experience. Seems a bit like double the work but IMO it would make soldering droppers far easier. Cheers CK. By the way, your Bleakhouse Road layout looks the business mate. Does it still exist? Quackers. P.S. That M7.....the cab looks almost OK but now the whistle has broken off! Pah! Edited February 2, 2016 by Mallard60022 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNER4479 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Happy to spend some time on electrickery at next visit... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2016 Conventional wisdom has it that for optimum continuity, be the layout DC or DCC, ensuring that every piece of rail has its own feed is the best way to go. Loft layouts are subject to greater variations in temperature and humidity than those in cosy bedrooms etc, so belt, braces and skyhooks are all advised to thwart the gremlins. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 Conventional wisdom has it that for optimum continuity, be the layout DC or DCC, ensuring that every piece of rail has its own feed is the best way to go. Loft layouts are subject to greater variations in temperature and humidity than those in cosy bedrooms etc, so belt, braces and skyhooks are all advised to thwart the gremlins. Thanks Dudds. Yes, I realise that is really what I need to do. However, I'm considering making sure the mains in the 'seen' sections are all done this way as they are unlikely to be ripped up and changed once sorted. The off stage mains might just get retro fitting as might some of the easier to reach Fiddle Yard tracks as the exact position and formation of these areas is not yet settled. The ends of the main line runs really dictate the exact position of the above. I'm fairly certain that most of the scenic tracks will have under-board BUS runs and the off stage areas surface-board BUS runs; well, that's the plan! The M7 whistle injury has been treated successfully I'm happy to say. Quackers. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 Think I prefer wimmen to hungry caterpillars. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium New Haven Neil Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 Yer, wot's with the capertillar? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) That's clever. It has actually given me an idea too. Instead of soldering droppers to the sides of rails one could replace an appropriate sleeper with a copper clad strip (soldered to track), slot the c. clad centre and then solder the dropper wires to the copper clad as it receives the solder more easily than the rail in my experience. Seems a bit like double the work but IMO it would make soldering droppers far easier. Cheers CK. By the way, your Bleakhouse Road layout looks the business mate. Does it still exist? Cheers, Phil. Yes, BHR and Engine Wood still exist and are stored only a few yards from me, in my hobby room. Unfortunately personal/domestic circumstances mean that there is currently no opportunity to put them up or take them to shows. Edited February 2, 2016 by Captain Kernow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I think the caterpillar is a metaphor for the thread. From all this chaos, there is a cocoon building in the loft from which we hope a beautiful layout will emerge! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted February 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2016 Yay, 100 pages. It's OK to lay track now Ducky! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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