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Dapol working signals review


Andy Y
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I don't think that's been mentioned on here before. According to the review in NGS Journal the mechanism would protrude slightly below a 2x1 frame (depending also on thickness of the top). This could also lead to damage if used with a non-permanent layout having similar frames.

According to my Paddington Bear ruler (sorry, but it was handy) the mechanism protrudes slightly under 2 inches below the base of the signal and of course the wiring comes out of the bottom of it and would need some room to turn and be protected from damage.

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  • RMweb Gold

In case this is useful ... my layout is built on 2 inch extruded foam sheets, over a layer of chipboard. I drilled a hole into the foam wide enough to take the signal housing (minus the plastic nut that is supplied with it) and ran the wires through a smaller hole in the chipboard. I routed the wires through a piece of plastic tubing to get them to slip through the hole, then removed the tubing for re-use on the next signal. The base of the signal sits nicely flush with the top of the foam.

 

Rather than a momentary contact switch, I wired in a non-latching push-to-make switch. A brief tap on this is sufficient to activate the signal. I've wired the signal using choc-block type screw connectors but will be looking to swap to a small 4-way plug or similar so that the entire unit can be easily swapped from one signal type to another.

 

I was a bit surprised not to see a wiring diagram with the instructions but once I'd got my head around things installation was very simple. For a ham-fisted sort like myself, who has tried and failed to automate many Ratio signals, these are a very nice product.

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Thanks stationmaster thats what i have done but only one signal in situ at the moment , if i run a bus round can i put all further signals on and conect with droppers.

 

Im new to the hobby and have 3 of these signals on the N gauge layout Im building and think they are excellent. I have 2 connected so far to the dcc track bus and all seems to work fine after 2 weeks of use. I didnt want to control the signals from the dcc controller so have wired them to Peco passing contact switches in a switch panel bought off the shelf from my local model shop. One annoying thing is that you have to flip the switches slowly as it seems the signals need 0.5-1sec of passing contact to activate the movement..Im not sure if anyone else has this problem?

Edited by davebem
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Gentlemen,

We seem to be edging closer to the solution to the problem I described in my post 232 (to remind you: how do I get my lovely Dapol semaphore signals to work sensibly with a Modratec interlocking frame). Let's not argue about why Dapol chose the operating method, and let's see how to use it best. Can I modify a Modratec frame to give a momentary blip to operate my signals? Do I need a separate momentary button to align the signals before an operating session? There's a wealth of wisdom out there and I'd love to hear from it.

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Just bought a 4mm BR upper quadrent to evaluate. Worked for 5 min then expired with no movement and just the lamp lit so prpobably going back to Dapol.

Its not super detailed and has no balance weights etc so nice for toy trains or the rough and tumble of the exhibition circuit perhaps.

Why they used a blueish LED in the lamp ive no idea.

Mechanism is ingenious with a long thin motor and make to stop limit switches and 3 IC's.

Strange over-design of electronics where the sgnal toggles every time the 2 yellow wires are joined making it practically useless for working where you cant see what position its in or any sort of automation or DCC. A tortoise point motor system works fine with a motor and 2 limit switches which I think would have been cheaper an simpler.

I hear MERG are hope to make a new PCB to allow the signal to be worked by a simple ON-OFF switch or relay.

 

Overall nice signal but strange electronics a big disapointmet to me. Perhaps Bachman or Hornby will make there own versions which can be operated correctley.

Kev

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Does this also mean you have to run both yellow wires back to the control panel? An alternative design would have allowed for commoning of the switches/buttons with one wire per signal plus a common.

The signal needs 4 wires. The red and black need a constant 16V ac to power the lamp, motor and electronics. The 2 yellow ones change the state of the signal every time they are momentalary joined by say a push button switch.. This means even on a manual layout you need to be able to see the signal to decide if it needs changing.

To me the strange electronics must have either been designed by a non railway modeller or [admin edit unnecessary tone removed]

Edited by Mod4
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Within the 17 pages of this thread the various views on the method of operation of these signals have already been repeatedly debated.

 

Whilst the method used may not be everyone first choice the signals are what they are, and whilst we of course accept constructive criticism on this site , lowing ourselves to simple insults is unnecessary and unwelcome.

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  • RMweb Gold

This means even on a manual layout you need to be able to see the signal to decide if it needs changing.

How many layouts are that big that you can't see the signal from the operating position ?? And if it is a 'manual' layout, you'll need to be able to see the points too, and probably the position of the rolling stock...

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Just bought a 4mm BR upper quadrent to evaluate. Worked for 5 min then expired with no movement and just the lamp lit so prpobably going back to Dapol.

 

Kev

 

I had exactly the same problem with a N gauge one and then found it seems to be a common occurence with these signals in both scales. A bit too unreliable for my taste if it can happen so frequently for no apparent reason considering their basic cost. I didn't dare risk getting another to replace it and got a refund.

 

Izzy

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How many layouts are that big that you can't see the signal from the operating position ?? And if it is a 'manual' layout, you'll need to be able to see the points too, and probably the position of the rolling stock...

Mine is (are?) hence the reason for me exploring a feedback option to confirm the position of the signal as per my posting way back up there ^^^^^ somewhere

 

Andi

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  • 3 weeks later...

I already have six Dapol GWR signals on my layout and am quite happy with them. However, I do need some bracket signals and wonder when these are going to be available? Once I have some working bracket signals, I can then proceed with doing some long overdue scenery work!

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  • RMweb Gold

Shouldn't the distance signal have a yellow lens?

 

The term distance was dropped in the 19th century, they are distant signals.

 

I believe the production ones do have yellow lens and I think this point was made earlier in the thread.

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I must confess I have in mind using a couple of old bell pushes "liberated" from an old Darlington Corporation bus in a local scrapyard in 1969. Nice and big and unmistakeable- even have "push once" embossed into the shiny aluminium surround!

 

I only need two distants. I'm wondering if I use the square post and cut off the finial if anyone will spot they're not really NER slotted post types. I am talking N-gauge, by the way.

 

Les

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Just bought a 4mm BR upper quadrent to evaluate. Worked for 5 min then expired with no movement and just the lamp lit so prpobably going back to Dapol.

Its not super detailed and has no balance weights etc so nice for toy trains or the rough and tumble of the exhibition circuit perhaps.

Why they used a blueish LED in the lamp ive no idea.

Mechanism is ingenious with a long thin motor and make to stop limit switches and 3 IC's.

Strange over-design of electronics where the sgnal toggles every time the 2 yellow wires are joined making it practically useless for working where you cant see what position its in or any sort of automation or DCC. A tortoise point motor system works fine with a motor and 2 limit switches which I think would have been cheaper an simpler.

I hear MERG are hope to make a new PCB to allow the signal to be worked by a simple ON-OFF switch or relay.

 

Overall nice signal but strange electronics a big disapointmet to me. Perhaps Bachman or Hornby will make there own versions which can be operated correctley.

Kev

 

I got 4 of them in 00 and 3 have stopped working, same problem, LED lights up but no movement, guess I'll just have to send em back, shame really.

 

Mark

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If there is a quality control issue here that would be a big disappointment for both Dapol and the modeller.

 

I think I'll stick with my Hornby Dublo electric semphore signals for now until any issues are resolved.

Just as a point of interest Colin i have now installed 5 signals , 4 home and 1 distant so far all are working ok. They have been in about a month so far. regards steam.
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