RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted July 6, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2022 I am sure AS will already have the new design sorted. Can't quite remember what was decided for the 37's? An alternative would be to use the same fine chain fixed to the bogies at each end, but with a shorter more representative length as per the prototype. The actuator arm could be included on the body to diguise (the missing link), and the overall effect is still far beyond anything done before, but more practicable in relation to body removal, handling 2nd radius curves and inadvertently coming loose during running when permantently fixed rather than a push fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted July 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2022 ISTR that AS solution will be to change the body mounting from being on the body, to being a part of the chassis...? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted July 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2022 Ian J is correct. Accurascale have said the chains on the 37 will be attached to the chassis instead of the removable body. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TravisM Posted July 6, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2022 I hope this is the right thread but with the driver and second man, are they ordered through Accurascale or ModelU? As they are set in the banger blue era, will there be any in the current era with train crew in protective hi-viz clothing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2022 51 minutes ago, jools1959 said: I hope this is the right thread but with the driver and second man, are they ordered through Accurascale or ModelU? As they are set in the banger blue era, will there be any in the current era with train crew in protective hi-viz clothing? From Accurascale :) https://www.accurascale.com/collections/crews-and-people 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Legend Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 7, 2022 22 hours ago, philg said: I’m wondering if it’s possible to use ThreadLoc to attach the chains? Need something that’s firm but easily removable…… Black tack seems to have worked ok . Very sticky substance , more sticky than blue tack but removable should it be required . Had to do 3 out of the 4 chains . Have a feeling my loco might not have been seated properly in its plastic tray . I did run one circuit before sticking the chains back on and it seems silky smooth , so will do some proper running in now and see if chains stay on. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusd666 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Hi all stupid question time changing the head codes is it just simply Stiicking the new one over the factory fitted or do you have to open the model up ? You can stop laughing now 😁😁😁 Thanks Marcus 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2022 20 minutes ago, marcusd666 said: Hi all stupid question time changing the head codes is it just simply Stiicking the new one over the factory fitted or do you have to open the model up ? You can stop laughing now 😁😁😁 Thanks Marcus https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/changing-the-head-codes-in-your-deltic Follow the link. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 51 minutes ago, marcusd666 said: Hi all stupid question time changing the head codes is it just simply Stiicking the new one over the factory fitted or do you have to open the model up ? Knowing at first hand how difficult it is to refit the chains, I'd follow the first course of action! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLIBOD17 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) Precisely an hour to add nameplates & bufferbeam details to KOYLI. Please please Accurascale can the next batch include factory fitted detailing at one end. Need to touch up the odd pipe now where the tweezers cracked off the factory white paint. Still a cracking model though !! Edited July 7, 2022 by DLIBOD17 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomScrut Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 5 minutes ago, DLIBOD17 said: Precisely an hour to add nameplates & bufferbeam details to KOYLI. TBH I thought it was the easiest loco I have ever done (D9009). I liked how it was more reliefs to locate things with a dab of glue rather than tight holes that make fitting awkward. I did a Bachmann 90 and DBSO in the same week and the Deltic was the easiest. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLIBOD17 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, TomScrut said: TBH I thought it was the easiest loco I have ever done (D9009). I liked how it was more reliefs to locate things with a dab of glue rather than tight holes that make fitting awkward. I did a Bachmann 90 and DBSO in the same week and the Deltic was the easiest. The recesses definitely make life easier as opposed to lugs into holes (as the lugs are always oversized/holes too narrow). It’s just that my fingers aren’t as small & nimble for applying fiddly bits. Only 12 more locos to sort out !! 😗 Edited July 7, 2022 by DLIBOD17 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomScrut Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 27 minutes ago, DLIBOD17 said: Only 12 more locos to sort out !! You ought to log how long each one takes and see how it improves! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 5 hours ago, thetrains said: The photos make it look like it's done from the outside Don't know what you're looking at but the instructions clearly state - 'Remove the bodyshell ...' - https://www.accurascale.com/pages/support#reamaze#0#/kb/class-55-deltic/changing-the-head-codes-in-your-deltic 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 How difficult is it to run a drill through the holes before fitting (non-55) bufferbeam details? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Not my area or era but as I had the Bachmann prototype I ordered an early production model to go with it when a few became available last week. A mazing. There was one small part loose in the packing and I had an interesting time finding where it had come from. This allowed me to inspect the fine detail. I discovered that it was one of the corner steps. The buffer beam detail and the fitting instructions are pure genius and the idea of removing the buffer beam to do so is brilliant and makes things so much easier. I had no problems with the chains. All are attached and running through a code 100 Peco double slip at a stupid speed failed to dislodge them. Incredible value for money and certainly the best RTR model locomotive by a mile. Just one comment, more about this thread than the model itsellf. If you bought a new car you would not ask the garage how to drive it. You would be expected to know. I find the questions on the DCC version a bit over the top and a bit unfair on Accurascale. Bernard 3 1 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 55 minutes ago, Bernard Lamb said: If you bought a new car you would not ask the garage how to drive it. Probably not how to drive it (actually I had to last year as there was no manual handbrake!) - but you may well need to ask what all the knobs & switches do. A/S have been more than willing to answer questions and support their customers - as others have previously commented this is customer service at it's best. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLIBOD17 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, TomScrut said: You ought to log how long each one takes and see how it improves! Getting quicker …. Tulyar done in about 35 minutes 👍🏻 There’s the added bonus that the 1960’s green versions have less parts to fit - especially the small orange eth receptacles that very easily flirt from between tweezers 😚👍🏻 Edited July 7, 2022 by DLIBOD17 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium brushman47544 Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 7, 2022 Another for the next run as the tooling/livery combination was missing from the first run is a green with small yellow panel with battery compartment louvres fitted. Preferably an FP racehorse, I’ve seen photographic evidence of D9020 Nimbus in this form. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northmoor MPD Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 My replacement “Alycidon” arrived today and it is perfect! 😁 100% the best model I’ve ever seen in 00 scale. Here are a few pictures of it on my micro layout, it’s well out of scale for it but as I’ve not even got around to laying the track on my depot layout yet it’s the best I’ve got 🙈😂 13 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 7, 2022 2 hours ago, Bernard Lamb said: Just one comment, more about this thread than the model itself. If you bought a new car you would not ask the garage how to drive it. You would be expected to know. I find the questions on the DCC version a bit over the top and a bit unfair on Accurascale. Bernard You may be expected to know how to drive it, but not how to turn the lights on. There is a simple solution. RTFM..... 1 1 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSfan72 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) My Alycidon is undergoing overhaul to current condition. Run in on the rolling road first, I’ve now removed the small speaker and fitted a chip with a new Bryan Robertson sound file (I bought DCC ready). The D9009 numbers have been removed with a cocktail stick (come off very cleanly) and the buffers and buffer beam are now red. I’m hoping tomorrow I’ll get the buffer beam detail on as well as the 55 009 numbers and then get it back together. I’m considering gloss varnish but not sure if I want to risk it! Edited July 7, 2022 by LMSfan72 Typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLIBOD17 Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Suspect Accurascale have various livery permutations in mind for the second run of 55’s but I’ll throw the following liveries into the ring. Credit to the original image photographers/owners…… 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted July 7, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2022 On 06/07/2022 at 10:16, Graham108 said: I'd be interested in a poll to determine the outcome of your request. I submit 1 vote against. And a 2nd. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted July 7, 2022 Moderators Share Posted July 7, 2022 1 hour ago, thetrains said: but clearly the photos show the front of the model viewed from outside, No it doesn't, the shots are very, very clearly of the inside of the body and nose. The final shot is from outside. Some days the manufacturers really, really have my sympathy. 2 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now