Accurascale Class 55 Deltic - 4mm scale

[G-BOAF]

15 hours ago, Bucoops said:

Accurascale accessories may need to extend to bogies!

I did ask a while back if bogie frames would be available as purchasable spares, and the answer was negative. I would certainly like to be able to swap frames out for D9009 and possibly have some more colourful frames on D9002 but with ability to revert to prototype.

 

20 hours ago, Tiddles47 said:

Not quite. Alycidon has its TOPS number 55009, , the model is D9009. The real 1 has cast bogies  now that were meant for D9015. The fabricated bogies that 55009 did have , and as modelled by Accurascale, were overhauled after its accident in 2019, will now go under D9015. 

Is this a change from the original plan? I thought the cast bogies were being 'run in' under D9009 and would revert to D9015 when it was ready.

Also I believed it was the newly overhauled cast bogies that were damaged in the 2019 incident. D9009s fabricated bogies were being overhauled, but independently of the damage. See here

https://www.thedps.co.uk/post/statement-regarding-failure-of-d9009

 

[Bucoops]

3 hours ago, G-BOAF said:

I did ask a while back if bogie frames would be available as purchasable spares, and the answer was negative. I would certainly like to be able to swap frames out for D9009 and possibly have some more colourful frames on D9002 but with ability to revert to prototype.

 

Is this a change from the original plan? I thought the cast bogies were being 'run in' under D9009 and would revert to D9015 when it was ready.

Also I believed it was the newly overhauled cast bogies that were damaged in the 2019 incident. D9009s fabricated bogies were being overhauled, but independently of the damage. See here

https://www.thedps.co.uk/post/statement-regarding-failure-of-d9009

 

 

I think there are differences between batch1 and batch2 that would make them incompatible anyway?

[Chilly]

41 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

I think there are differences between batch1 and batch2 that would make them incompatible anyway?

So Alycidon and Tulyar on the first run could be doable as in changing bogies, however this may not be necessary in view of G-BOAF's comments above as they may end up with the Accurascale modelled bogies they carry in due course anyway 🤔   

[Tiddles47]

4 hours ago, G-BOAF said:

I did ask a while back if bogie frames would be available as purchasable spares, and the answer was negative. I would certainly like to be able to swap frames out for D9009 and possibly have some more colourful frames on D9002 but with ability to revert to prototype.

 

Is this a change from the original plan? I thought the cast bogies were being 'run in' under D9009 and would revert to D9015 when it was ready.

Also I believed it was the newly overhauled cast bogies that were damaged in the 2019 incident. D9009s fabricated bogies were being overhauled, but independently of the damage. See here

https://www.thedps.co.uk/post/statement-regarding-failure-of-d9009

 

I asked the question on the DPS fb page and this was the reply… “Cast bogies staying with 9 and fabricated with 15 for the short term”

[The Fatadder]

Is the deltic manual still available on the AS website?  The support page is just comping up blank for me now 

 

want to have a look at the function mapping table (for non sound) 

[McC]

19 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Is the deltic manual still available on the AS website?  The support page is just comping up blank for me now 

 

want to have a look at the function mapping table (for non sound) 

Click the support icon bottom right and you’ll find all the product guides in there now. 

Edited March 31, 2023 by McC

[The Fatadder]

4 minutes ago, McC said:

Click the support icon bottom right and you’ll find all the product guides in there now. 

Do you have a link? I am looking and I can’t see the button you are referring to

 

[Bucoops]

5 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Do you have a link? I am looking and I can’t see the button you are referring to

 

 

 

It's the speech bubble, then select another topic - I'm one of the ones who preferred it how it was before :)

[The Fatadder]

Thanks, got it now!

[The Fatadder]

Out of interest is there a list (along the lines of what Hattons supplied with their 66) which details what functions you should get on a 4 function, 6 function etc decoder?

 

I am struggling with mine (9016) as I only seem to have 5 outputs working on a 6 function decoder and want to make sure that’s correct.

 

(directional day headlights f0, rear 1 f1,  rear 2 f2, cab1 f3, cab2 f4. )

Edited March 31, 2023 by The Fatadder

[Roy Langridge]

12 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Out of interest is there a list (along the lines of what Hattons supplied with their 66) which details what functions you should get on a 4 function, 6 function etc decoder?

 

I am struggling with mine (9016) as I only seem to have 5 outputs working on a 6 function decoder and want to make sure that’s correct.

 

(directional day headlights f0, rear 1 f1,  rear 2 f2, cab1 f3, cab2 f4. )

I might be being mad, but isn’t that six functions, with F0 being two, front (F0f) and rear (F0r)?
 

Roy

Edited March 31, 2023 by Roy Langridge

[The Fatadder]

18 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

I might be being mad, but isn’t that six functions, with F0 being two, front (F0f) and rear (F0r)?
 

Roy

That would explain it thanks, always thought of it as a single function.  

[atom3624]

I never had much luck with my KOYLI, and have now passed it onto another enthusiast - unreliable on my track, frequently derailing, which I never managed to definitively resolve.

That said, I have bitten the bullet for a '2nd issue' Deltic, as it's right at the very top of my favourite diesels ... and have ordered a 'Black Watch'.

Let's hope my earlier woes have been resolved sufficiently.

Al.

[The Fatadder]

Not quite sure what 9016 was doing on the Newquay branch in 1999 in the below photo (I thought it was too busy catching fire in Loughborough). But it seemed to go down well on Saturday at Calne.  Less good was finding a few of its detail parts scattered over the layout / fiddleyard while taking the layout down.  So this evening will be spent gluing it back together.  I think I will try a gentle pull on the other separate parts to encourage them to fall off in a controlled environment and glue them on properly 

[Markwj]

I finally got around to fitting the sound chip and speaker to my deltic- it does rattle though when the sound is on- how can i get around that what techniques have you all used?

thanks

mark

[SHMD]

Turn the sound down!

 

 

Kev.

(..just try it.)

 

[atom3624]

2 hours ago, thetrains said:

Probly the kinematic coupling action, mine and others at LMRC removed kinematic - no more issues -, "this quirk", now resolved on 37's and upwards according to McC in this thread sometime last year.

I do agree.

I tried everything except to remove the return spring - in case it was too strong.  Just couldn't get it sorted.  Having sat in the engine shed for 6 months, it was time to move on.

Al.

[McC]

8 hours ago, atom3624 said:

I do agree.

I tried everything except to remove the return spring - in case it was too strong.  Just couldn't get it sorted.  Having sat in the engine shed for 6 months, it was time to move on.

Al.

Some customers have found a gentle filing of the ‘V’ to a soft curve in the kinematic recentering will allow for more tolerant centering after curves or points. May help!

[atom3624]

1 hour ago, McC said:

Some customers have found a gentle filing of the ‘V’ to a soft curve in the kinematic recentering will allow for more tolerant centering after curves or points. May help!

I tried that as well - it did improve things.

I do find these kinematic couplings very hit-and-miss, particularly with another manufacturer recently highlighted on a TV series beginning with 'H'!!

Conversely, after removing the 3-link and one larger 'detail' (vacuum?) on my Heljan 86, I can leave her at nearly any (reasonable) speed, for hours.

My Hattons 66 is similarly successful.

Both of them have kinematic couplings.

Al.

[Waverley West]

My Ballymoss kept derailing at two particular points on the layout, both on curves where there was a slight "hump" in the track at two baseboard joints.

 

I eventually realised that, at these points, the trailing bogie was pitching (moving in the plane of the loco) and then pivoting and then "unpitching" and straightening again.

 

As the bogie pivoted around the curve with the front of the trailing bogie pitching upwards and the rear pitching down (i.e. the loco was going over a slight hump in the track), this caused the top of the rear of the bogie to move directly below the coupling block on the chassis. If the bogie remained in this position as the loco came out of the curve and off the hump in the track, it ended up lodged beneath the coupling block. As the loco moved out of the curve, the bogie then became jammed against the coupling block and unable to straighten, causing the derailment.

 

The eventual fix proved to be filing a bevel of a couple of mm's on the top edge of the coupling block and the V in the end of the bogie. This stops the interlocking between the bogie and coupling block and prevents the bogie from becoming lodged on top of the coupling block as the loco comes out of the curve.

 

Not sure how well I've explained that, but I hope it helps someone! There may well be other reasons for these locos derailing, but this has completely eradicated the problems with my Ballymoss and I don't have any derailment issues with it now.

 

I have 4 Accurascale Deltics and test runs have indicated that two of the others are fine and one suffers from the same derailment issue, so that one will also have to undergo minor surgery.

 

As regards the infamous rattle, it really is just a question of opening the loco up and checking for possible sources. The main source of the rattle in my Ballymoss was one of the two circuit boards under the loco's roof. This couldn't be tightened using the screws, so I eventually ended up unscrewing it and attaching it to the loco using Bluetac. I also unscrewed the speaker and did the same with that. These two steps seemed to eliminate the rattle completely.

 

Result: a fantastic loco but quite a lot of working out what was wrong and then solving the problem to get there!

 

Fortunately, the other three locos do not seem to suffer from the same rattle.

 

I have now sold all my Bachmann Deltics and am enjoying my Accurascale ones. I came to realise just how far out the nose of the Bachmann Deltic is when I opened the box containing my first Accurascale one. I hadn't really worked out what was wrong with the Bachmann Deltic until that moment. The Accurascale one looks spot on for shape.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Edited April 18, 2023 by Waverley West

[MikeParkin65]

1 hour ago, Waverley West said:

My Ballymoss kept derailing at two particular points on the layout, both on curves where there was a slight "hump" in the track at two baseboard joints.

 

I eventually realised that, at these points, the trailing bogie was pitching (moving in the plane of the loco) and then pivoting and then "unpitching" and straightening again.

 

As the bogie pivoted around the curve with the front of the trailing bogie pitching upwards and the rear pitching down (i.e. the loco was going over a slight hump in the track), this caused the top of the rear of the bogie to move directly below the coupling block on the chassis. If the bogie remained in this position as the loco came out of the curve and off the hump in the track, it ended up lodged beneath the coupling block. As the loco moved out of the curve, the bogie then became jammed against the coupling block and unable to straighten, causing the derailment.

 

The eventual fix proved to be filing a bevel of a couple of mm's on the top edge of the coupling block and the V in the end of the bogie. This stops the interlocking between the bogie and coupling block and prevents the bogie from becoming lodged on top of the coupling block as the loco comes out of the curve.

 

Not sure how well I've explained that, but I hope it helps someone! There may well be other reasons for these locos derailing, but this has completely eradicated the problems with my Ballymoss and I don't have any derailment issues with it now.

 

I have 4 Accurascale Deltics and test runs have indicated that two of the others are fine and one suffers from the same derailment issue, so that one will also have to undergo minor surgery.

 

As regards the infamous rattle, it really is just a question of opening the loco up and checking for possible sources. The main source of the rattle in my Ballymoss was one of the two circuit boards under the loco's roof. This couldn't be tightened using the screws, so I eventually ended up unscrewing it and attaching it to the loco using Bluetac. I also unscrewed the speaker and did the same with that. These two steps seemed to eliminate the rattle completely.

 

Result: a fantastic loco but quite a lot of working out what was wrong and then solving the problem to get there!

 

Fortunately, the other three locos do not seem to suffer from the same rattle.

 

I have now sold all my Bachmann Deltics and am enjoying my Accurascale ones. I came to realise just how far out the nose of the Bachmann Deltic is when I opened the box containing my first Accurascale one. I hadn't really worked out what was wrong with the Bachmann Deltic until that moment. The Accurascale one looks spot on for shape.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Really helpful post - thanks for taking the time to write it.

 

Amazingly, despite my very uneven base boards (Sundeala being progressively replaced along with an ongoing rewire) none of my 3 Deltics suffer from derailment issues.

 

I do have one with the occasional speaker rattle so will try adding 'padding' to replace the screws. Might be the temperature variations in my attic but I find Blue Tack 'goes off' over time, gets a hard 'crust' whilst beneath the crust goes super sticky. On that basis I'll use Black Tack instead which also has the advantage that it can be spread really thinly yet still be effective. 

[atom3624]

Totally agreed.  Very informative.

Al.

[Legend]

Yup also agree . Thanks for posting . I've likened my Deltic to the thoroughbred horse that she is . Looks gorgeous but very temperamental . I have been suffering reasonably frequent derailments , but never when I'm looking!  Its usually the back bogie which fails to completely straighten coming off the curve . So the interaction you have pointed out between coupling and bogie will be investigated . 

 

My layout has been in the loft for 30 years . There are uneven patches and bits where the boards, like me, have sagged over time . That said , everything else gets round it , so the Deltic has frustratingly been spending a lot of time on shed . 

[Waverley West]

2 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said:

Really helpful post - thanks for taking the time to write it.

 

Amazingly, despite my very uneven base boards (Sundeala being progressively replaced along with an ongoing rewire) none of my 3 Deltics suffer from derailment issues.

 

I do have one with the occasional speaker rattle so will try adding 'padding' to replace the screws. Might be the temperature variations in my attic but I find Blue Tack 'goes off' over time, gets a hard 'crust' whilst beneath the crust goes super sticky. On that basis I'll use Black Tack instead which also has the advantage that it can be spread really thinly yet still be effective. 

 

It was interesting that not all my Deltics suffered from the same derailment problems, suggesting that it's a marginal issue with fine tolerances as to whether or not there's a problem.

 

Good suggestion about Black Tack. I've recently bought some to use for sound-fitting projects, so I might try using that instead of Blue Tack.

[Magna Junction]

7 hours ago, Waverley West said:

My Ballymoss kept derailing at two particular points on the layout, both on curves where there was a slight "hump" in the track at two baseboard joints.

 

I eventually realised that, at these points, the trailing bogie was pitching (moving in the plane of the loco) and then pivoting and then "unpitching" and straightening again.

 

As the bogie pivoted around the curve with the front of the trailing bogie pitching upwards and the rear pitching down (i.e. the loco was going over a slight hump in the track), this caused the top of the rear of the bogie to move directly below the coupling block on the chassis. If the bogie remained in this position as the loco came out of the curve and off the hump in the track, it ended up lodged beneath the coupling block. As the loco moved out of the curve, the bogie then became jammed against the coupling block and unable to straighten, causing the derailment.

 

The eventual fix proved to be filing a bevel of a couple of mm's on the top edge of the coupling block and the V in the end of the bogie. This stops the interlocking between the bogie and coupling block and prevents the bogie from becoming lodged on top of the coupling block as the loco comes out of the curve.

 

Not sure how well I've explained that, but I hope it helps someone! There may well be other reasons for these locos derailing, but this has completely eradicated the problems with my Ballymoss and I don't have any derailment issues with it now.

 

I have 4 Accurascale Deltics and test runs have indicated that two of the others are fine and one suffers from the same derailment issue, so that one will also have to undergo minor surgery.

 

As regards the infamous rattle, it really is just a question of opening the loco up and checking for possible sources. The main source of the rattle in my Ballymoss was one of the two circuit boards under the loco's roof. This couldn't be tightened using the screws, so I eventually ended up unscrewing it and attaching it to the loco using Bluetac. I also unscrewed the speaker and did the same with that. These two steps seemed to eliminate the rattle completely.

 

Result: a fantastic loco but quite a lot of working out what was wrong and then solving the problem to get there!

 

Fortunately, the other three locos do not seem to suffer from the same rattle.

 

I have now sold all my Bachmann Deltics and am enjoying my Accurascale ones. I came to realise just how far out the nose of the Bachmann Deltic is when I opened the box containing my first Accurascale one. I hadn't really worked out what was wrong with the Bachmann Deltic until that moment. The Accurascale one looks spot on for shape.

 

Hope that helps!

 

My KOYLI would constantly derail on my lift up section at the baseboard joint where no other stock would, was the same issue a slight difference in track height at the join, re-adjusted the track level and now runs faultlessly.