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Hunslet 16" 0-6-0 Saddle Tank - 00 Gauge


rapidoandy
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10 hours ago, Phil Himsworth said:

I blummin' love mine; it is by far the cutest loco I have. As far as I can tell it is a model of an engine built while my grandad worked there, and (I discovered recently) it worked very close to where I lived for a while. It looks fantastic and I'm dead chuffed with it.

 

I had a spot of bother to start with as it is not tolerant of even slight kinks in the track; I had a couple of flexitrack joins on bends which had slight kinks in them that nothing else cared about but this does. The axles have a bit of side to side play but the coupling rods are quite rigid and don't have any play, so tend to hold the wheels in line strongly, so even if there's play on the axle left to take up bends in the track the coupling rod can pop the wheel off the track anyway.

 

A bit of violence with some pliers to bend the ends of the rails into a smoother curve and it's fine now though.

 

This was the first loco I ordered since getting back into the hobby after a break of nearly 30 years so getting one with a few family connections does feel a bit special, and the model has not disappointed.

IMG_20230128_232050~2.jpg

I think that's why mine struggles with a crossover of two standard Hornby points, which is basically a very short reverse curve.  I know Hornby use it as a severe running test for EPs.  The side rods would benefit from a bit more slop if you have indifferent or "train set" track.

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On 28/01/2023 at 22:15, PaulRhB said:

I have Holly bank on the way but was tempted by Arthur at the Southampton show today and well . . . 😁

 

Thought a comparison with the Pi Victory would be interesting,

 

2D386A32-8A98-463B-B43B-890E853AE3F0.jpeg.3586642724c6d6701cc37980030ae790.jpeg

 

B8500B2B-2E74-4092-9B7E-EC9DC56E2EF5.jpeg.df060737529063a4a510f6910b170f18.jpeg

I picked up ' Arthur' om Saturday morning at the Erith show. I have found a photo that shows it in very grubby condition with one nameplate resting on the handrail.  Very simple to fit the next 18 decoder but the vertical feeder pipe is very easy to dislodge. I may replace it with fine wire at some point.

 

Also after checking the photos of the real loco , the steps provided loose in a bag aren't required.

 

Mine will be moving from Yorskshire  to run alongside the green Victory loco on my planned South Eastern Industrial layout.

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1 hour ago, rogerzilla said:

I think that's why mine struggles with a crossover of two standard Hornby points, which is basically a very short reverse curve.  I know Hornby use it as a severe running test for EPs.  The side rods would benefit from a bit more slop if you have indifferent or "train set" track.

Looking at the photo (under magnification) of the underside that Paul (PMP) kindly put up, it does seem as if the coupling rods are articulated. Can anyone actually confirm this, please?

 

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13 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Looking at the photo (under magnification) of the underside that Paul (PMP) kindly put up, it does seem as if the coupling rods are articulated. Can anyone actually confirm this, please?

Due to an unexpectedly early arrival by Postie, I can now answer my own question!

 

The coupling rods are NOT articulated, which could be a problem on the sharp A5 crossover (also OO-SF) on the layout, for which this loco is intended.

 

The solution would be to remove the rods and replace them with some articulated ones, probably from an Alan Gibson etch, but hopefully that won't be necessary. I can't test it on the layout at the moment, as I haven't got the space to put it up, but I will test the general running on my (straight) test track in a while.

 

The loco itself ('Alex' in maroon) looks absolutely lovely.

 

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10 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Due to an unexpectedly early arrival by Postie, I can now answer my own question!

 

The coupling rods are NOT articulated, which could be a problem on the sharp A5 crossover (also OO-SF) on the layout, for which this loco is intended.

 

The solution would be to remove the rods and replace them with some articulated ones, probably from an Alan Gibson etch, but hopefully that won't be necessary. I can't test it on the layout at the moment, as I haven't got the space to put it up, but I will test the general running on my (straight) test track in a while.

 

The loco itself ('Alex' in maroon) looks absolutely lovely.

 

 

From you first look do you think it is a possible P4 conversion?

 

Regards,

 

Craig W

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Hi All,

 

I have a test track with a crossover made up of two Peco SL-91, small radius, Code 100 insulfrog points. My newly-arrived Alex runs over this just fine. It's running in at the moment on a Gaugemaster DC controller set to about 30%.

 

Best Wishes,

Mat 

 

 

Edited by MatP
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2 hours ago, Craigw said:

 

From you first look do you think it is a possible P4 conversion?

 

Regards,

 

Craig W

Depending on how the model comes apart we may be able to supply the frame kit from our 16" for P4 builders. If anyone wants to check this please let us know.

Judith Edge kits

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3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

The coupling rods are NOT articulated, which could be a problem on the sharp A5 crossover (also OO-SF) on the layout, for which this loco is intended.

 

The solution would be to remove the rods and replace them with some articulated ones, probably from an Alan Gibson etch, but hopefully that won't be necessary. I can't test it on the layout at the moment, as I haven't got the space to put it up, but I will test the general running on my (straight) test track in a while.

I wondered about thinning the coupling rods by removing material from the back to make them a bit more flexible, in case having a go at the track didn't work. Luckily it did, so my thought process stopped there...

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On 29/01/2023 at 13:53, PenrithBeacon said:

Yesterday I received an email from Rails saying that mine had been posted. I really can't remember ordering one (which isn't the same as saying it isn't welcome). The money has gone out of my account and I note that AGW does appropriate wheels for P4. All of which is good; pleased.

Received  mine this morning, ever so good, really pleased. 

I bit more research in the AGW catalogue shows that the wheels are 4844 3'8" 12 spoke I/L, and the wheelbase is 5' 9" + 5' 3" so rods could be 4M121 for the WD 2-8-0 although they might be a bit chunky and need a bit of filing to reduce their height. 

I note from an earlier post that  Judith Edge could be persuaded to make the chassis of her complete kit available, what's not to like?

Edited by PenrithBeacon
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On 29/01/2023 at 10:50, PMP said:

I’m of a similar opinion Rob. The DJM design/manufacturing wasn’t good on the J94. The concept is used in N chassis’ and European HO so it can work.

AF18551F-100D-456E-82F2-A9E363545E97.jpeg.8964bc5b228e84068d30ee4173353eb0.jpeg


However this is a single driven axle (original spec suggested fully geared), and works beautifully. More of the same please @rapidoandy!

That's the post that convinced me to buy one! I wasn't prepared to buy another geared/rod driven model after the disastrous DJM Austerity and the Hornby 0-4-0 Sentinel diesel. I wasn't going to buy one at all as these standardised Hunslets don't really float my boat, but it must be the first ever RTR Hunslet and I was born within a mile of Jack Lane, so it would be rude not to. I've gone for Arthur as it will suit my scrapyard layout, where it can run until a proper home for it is built.

 

I have bought the non-sound one, but plan to fit a Zimo sound decoder at some point. When I learned that the factory-fit ones were to use ESU it put me off slightly as the brake function is always on F2 with Zimo and I could never get used to it being on F5 with the only ESU decoder that I had. I am even more pleased that I never wanted the factory-fit sound version now that I've seen the function list and that it lacks an active brake. Come on, Rapido chaps, we don't need FIVE different whistles and there's absolutely no need for a Guard's whistle on a colliery engine at all. One of those functions could have been given over to an active brake and I do hope that you consider this for future industrials.

 

One question, please - how do I remove the tension lock couplings? Does the keep plate have to be removed to get them out?

 

I won't post a picture as it'll only look like every other one until it's weathered.

 

By the way, I love the bit in the manual about the Marketing Manager being beaten about the head with one of Don Townsley's books! 😁

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3 hours ago, MatP said:

Hi All,

 

I have a test track with a crossover made up of two Peco SL-91, small radius, Code 100 insulfrog points. My newly-arrived Alex runs over this just fine. It's running in at the moment on a Gaugemaster DC controller set to about 30%.

 

Best Wishes,

Mat 

 

 

That's interesting - are the Peco small radius points much longer (if at all) than Hornby short points?

 

Having said that, some Hornby short points just have poor QC and swapping out one such point totally cured a previous derailing issue I had with a Bachmann K3.

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54 minutes ago, Ruston said:

 

One question, please - how do I remove the tension lock couplings? Does the keep plate have to be removed to get them out?

 

 

I undid the keeper plate to pop the TLs out by squeezing the tails with some tweezers 🙂 They are quite firm in the NEM pockets so it's better than yanking them out.

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Hi,

 

If the information on my track planning software is right,

 

Hornby R8073 - 167.5mm (same as a Peco ST-240)

Peco SL-91 - 187.5mm long

Hornby R8078 - 245mm long

 

The Peco doesn't strictly have a single radius but it's very close to being the same sort of angle as the Hornby R8078, it's just shorter. 

 

I find that it really helps with running if you check that a point is dead flat, particularly a short or set track point. They often bend up in the middle (it's even worse with Peco N gauge set track ones).  A pin in the centre of a sleeper near the pointy end of the 'frog' often works wonders. 

 

Best Wishes,

Mat (Bala Model Show Organiser and so forth)

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3 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

 

I note from an earlier post that  Judith Edge could be persuaded to make the chassis of her complete kit available, what's not to like?

It does depend on how it comes apart though, we were completely defeated by the Heljan 05.

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1 hour ago, RapidoCorbs said:

 

I undid the keeper plate to pop the TLs out by squeezing the tails with some tweezers 🙂 They are quite firm in the NEM pockets so it's better than yanking them out.

Thanks. I tried pulling on the coupling but it didn't want to move and I didn't want to force it. It's better to remove the entire box anyway and so that's what I have done.

 

By the way, someone needs to tell Hattons to sort out their description of Beatrice. They are saying that it is in South Yorkshire Area lined red. It becomes very confusing when there's also a photo of Beatrice out there on the net that claims to have been taken at North Gawber. I think that North Gawber came under the Barnsley area, but it's still in South Yorkshire, so anyone looking at that AND Hattons description is going to think that Beatrice worked in South Yorkshire. It was a North Yorkshire Area (formerly North Eastern Div. Area No.8) engine, even though Ackton Hall, the pit it worked at, was actually in West Yorkshire.

 

I hope that's clear now. 😁

 

Just tell Hattons that they need to learn their north from their south!

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Well, I've succumbed and we now have Arthur added to the flock. 

 

20230130_171623-01.jpeg.a19af9723ddc5cebf6b06228bf0a5178.jpeg

 

A quick run on Sheep Dip suggests a slight tight spot going forward and a rather abrupt halt in reverse. 

 

Some running in then is the order of the day. Once happy, some "distressing" will be conducted. 

 

Arthur should brace himself. 

 

 

Rob. 

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28 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Well, I've succumbed and we now have Arthur added to the flock. 

 

20230130_171623-01.jpeg.a19af9723ddc5cebf6b06228bf0a5178.jpeg

 

A quick run on Sheep Dip suggests a slight tight spot going forward and a rather abrupt halt in reverse. 

 

Some running in then is the order of the day. Once happy, some "distressing" will be conducted. 

 

Arthur should brace himself. 

 

 

Rob. 

That's quite "green"...I'm waiting for a maroon one myself but I understand the noisy ones have been delayed...

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2 hours ago, RapidoCorbs said:

 

I undid the keeper plate to pop the TLs out by squeezing the tails with some tweezers 🙂 They are quite firm in the NEM pockets so it's better than yanking them out.

 

I found the same when trying to remove the couplings by pulling.  

 

A note of caution when removing the keeper plate though. On my (urmm four) examples, the keeper plates seemed very tight and needed very gently levering off at each end. The reason they were reluctant to release was that the guard irons are glued to both the keeper plate and the chassis.

 

The glue gives up fairly easily but I have had a couple of individual guard irons launch themselves into the middle distance - subsequently located and re-fixed. I now have a mixture of guard irons glued to either the keeper plate or the chassis - not that it matters when the keeper plate is re-fitted.

 

Hope this helps

 

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5 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

I note from an earlier post that  Judith Edge could be persuaded to make the chassis of her complete kit available, what's not to like?

 

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

It does depend on how it comes apart though, we were completely defeated by the Heljan 05.

Well, having examined the parts drawing in the manual, I'm very sorry indeed to say that it looks like the construction is fundamentally the same as the Model Rail 16XX.

 

There seems to be a large metal casting that comprises the saddle tank and also houses the motor and comprises the firebox sides, amongst others. There does NOT appear to be any separate firebox components.

 

My initial conclusion, with regard to putting one of Mike's chassis under it, is that it would be like the 16XX, i other words, far too much work for it to be a practical consideration. The body components (large metal weight just described, saddle tank, cab etc.) would have to be completely dismantled, in order to separate them from the footplate. You would then have to either provide your own firebox sides (and match the livery of the rest of the loco) and probably cut the large metal weight about and then re-assembled it, in order to have a body that can easily be detached from an etched chassis.

 

Speaking with my P4 hat on (as opposed to my OO hat), I have previously described the design of the 16XX and it's 'innards' as an abomination. I'm not seeing much to dissuade me of that view with regards to this loco, either.

 

Rapido - some of your contemporaries can manage to design and produce a high-spec 0-6-0 tank loco, where you can just unscrew some screws and the body comes off nice and cleanly. Why not you?

 

I haven't measured the axle diameter on mine yet, but PMP's photo seems to indicate something smaller than 1/8" or even 3mm, hopefully that's wrong and substituting Alan Gibson wheels, with their 1/8" axles, can be done easily.

 

I initially thought I might convert one of these to P4, when they were first announced, but once I saw how the 16XX was put together, I hedged my bets and ordered some AG wheels for my Judith Edge kit. If I had built that when I first bought it, it would have been an OO loco, but now it's going to be P4.

 

However, speaking with my OO hat on, this is a lovely loco and if the running qualities can be improved with some running in, I find it absolutely lovely.

 

I have found the coreless motor in my Hunslet doesn't like my AMR slow-speed (DC) controller, which I use for virtually all my other locos (including one or two that do have coreless motors). This means that, assuming my Hunslet goes forward to be a regular loco on 'Bethesda Sidings', I will have to remember to switch controllers when using it. Not a huge deal, as there is a Gaugemaster panel-mounted controller also wired into the control panel, but a little vexatious nevertheless.

 

Sorry if the above sounds rather negative, but I'm finding Rapido a supplier of contrasts, when it comes to P4 conversions. These first two steam locos (16XX and Hunslet) are almost unconvertable, if you are wanting to put an etched chassis, whereas the steam-age rolling stock (eg. the SE&CR opens) are a dream to convert.

 

Edited by Captain Kernow
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1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

 

20230130_171623-01.jpeg.a19af9723ddc5cebf6b06228bf0a5178.jpeg

 

 

1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

What a handsome looking loco, definitely needs some of your weathering magic though

 

Hi Chris, 

I agree. A very handsome chap. I'm looking forward to toning things down a bit, once happy with the running. Final condition will mirror that of the Peckett behind. 

 

1 hour ago, Gilbert said:

That's quite "green"...I'm waiting for a maroon one myself but I understand the noisy ones have been delayed...

 

Hi Chris......

 

Very green. I'm toying with getting "Kermit" plates made up.

I looked at all versions at Lord and Butler today. We may see a second example arriving. Very impressed. 

 

 

Rob. 

 

 

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