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Kernow Model Rail Centre to produce GWR 1361 0-6-0 Saddle Tank


Andy Y
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Would it be possible to include the outside raised surround of the number plates as part of the loco side moldings and then to design the number etch to be positioned within that?

 

Would that not then preclude the use of third-party numberplates?

 

Les

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Would that not then preclude the use of third-party numberplates?

 

Les

Several times I’ve had to carefully file down a beading edge in order to get a 3rd party number plate to sit nicely on the cab side.

All vendors are equal when it comes to this problem.

I thought DJ was refreshing in his approach of being etched but not standing too far out, I’ve not had need to but surely removing the brass cab side off a DJ 14xx/136x isn’t that hard ..?

Edited by adb968008
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It's a method of ensuring that etched plates are fitted accurately. Unless the manufacturer reverts to the old printed plates, I'm not sure how else you can ensure the plates are straight.

You use a simple jig. It's hardly rocket science. I am slightly amused that Dave has done a fantastic job of convincing many of us that it's an insurmountable problem that doesn't actually exist.

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Apart from the plates that still managed to be fitted wonkily even in the recess.

 

Remember the Farish 3MTs where a whole run had the dome sloping forwards because they had been put on the wrong way round on a taper boiler?  These had the lug "handed" to prevent it happening.  I also remember being told by the commissioner of a batch of models that arrived from China with no numbers or crests on the "blind side" in the box.

 

Making a recess won't prevent plates being slapped on wonkily- but it does make it harder to do, and harder to omit the plates altogether.

 

All the very best

Les

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Guest chris.trebble

If the factory can't be relied on to position the number plate correctly, then the best solution may be to include the number plate separately in the box (as suggested by The Fatadder) together with a paper or card template to aid positioning. I don't really understand why the factory can't do this but perhaps it may be a case of slow drying adhesive and slippage of the number plate when the model is moved too soon to the next production stage?

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If the factory can't be relied on to position the number plate correctly, then the best solution may be to include the number plate separately in the box (as suggested by The Fatadder) together with a paper or card template to aid positioning. I don't really understand why the factory can't do this but perhaps it may be a case of slow drying adhesive and slippage of the number plate when the model is moved too soon to the next production stage?

 

I'd have thought that, in a factory production environment, self-adhesive plates with a strong grab could be used in conjunction with a mask. Masks are commonly used in the painting process, after all.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Not that I have horse in this race, but.... would it not be better to print a numberplate ever so slightly smaller than the real thing on the model, and then supply an etched plate exactly to proportion to fit over it? So that if people wished to have the etched plate ...

Digging a hole where a hole ain't meant to be

From Oz,

Peter C.

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Not that I have horse in this race, but.... would it not be better to print a numberplate ever so slightly smaller than the real thing on the model, and then supply an etched plate exactly to proportion to fit over it? So that if people wished to have the etched plate ...

Digging a hole where a hole ain't meant to be

From Oz,

Peter C.

But then people who didn't want to apply an etch would moan that the number plate is too small.

 

If the GWR hadn't insisted on using cast plates this wouldn't be an issue

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Not that I have horse in this race, but.... would it not be better to print a numberplate ever so slightly smaller than the real thing on the model, and then supply an etched plate exactly to proportion to fit over it? So that if people wished to have the etched plate ...

Digging a hole where a hole ain't meant to be

From Oz,

Peter C.

“It’s not there now, the ground’s all flat,

And beneath it is the man in the bowler hat.”

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Remember the Farish 3MTs where a whole run had the dome sloping forwards because they had been put on the wrong way round on a taper boiler?  These had the lug "handed" to prevent it happening.  I also remember being told by the commissioner of a batch of models that arrived from China with no numbers or crests on the "blind side" in the box.

 

Making a recess won't prevent plates being slapped on wonkily- but it does make it harder to do, and harder to omit the plates altogether.

 

All the very best

Les

 

It would be pretty difficult to put them on 'wonkily' unless you don't put them in the hole. There will always be imperfect models among any production batch, just as there is with any product - and one or two will slip through QC checks. (CJL)

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It would be pretty difficult to put them on 'wonkily' unless you don't put them in the hole. There will always be imperfect models among any production batch, just as there is with any product - and one or two will slip through QC checks. (CJL)

 

I would agree, but post 558 (not mine) says there are some wonky ones out there on the 14xx.

 

I suppose it is a case of you can get anything wrong if you try hard enough....

 

Les

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“It’s not there now, the ground’s all flat,

And beneath it is the man in the bowler hat.”

 

I immediately googled the words to find the source. I do that. And I fully agree with the sentiment.

 

Don’t dig there, dig it elsewhere

Your digging it round and it ought to be square

The shape of it’s wrong, it’s much much too long

And you can’t put hole where a hole don’t belong.     :onthequiet:  

Edited by KymN
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If the aperature is the same as the DJM\Hattons 14xx size, it'll be a simple job to pop them out with a jewellers screwdriver and replace them with etched plates. These are Modelmaster glued to the cab sides of the Hattons 14xx

post-68-0-95495500-1511358771_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

From Kernow's Facebook page

 

1361 SADDLE TANK UPDATE 22nd DECEMBER 2017 PROJECT UPDATE - PRODUCTION COMPLETE
We have been advised by the factory that all of the 1361 models have been completed and are ready to leave China. This is a break from previous practice where each model was sent as it was completed.

This is from the same factory that produced the Gate Stock and again we have been asked to pay a large percentage of the cost in advance. We will therefore need to start charging for these models in January to ensure we have the funds prior to the arrival of the models in February, as the factory has agreed to ship the models on the condition that payment is made prior to the container being unloaded in Southampton. We will again be able to honour the pre-order prices from three years ago if you pay in advance. We will shortly be emailing customers direct about this, but there is no need to wait if you are happy to pay in advance, you can let us know immediately.

As soon as we receive confirmation of the name of the vessel we will also advise this.

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From Kernow's Facebook page

Another advantage can be to save time getting them out once they are in. I,d recommend that they also take payment for postage at the same time otherwise you end doing the invoicing, payment process twice.

 

When I worked at the Signal Box, the time it took to take payment and print the invoices and delivery docs was about equal to that of wrapping it up ready to go.

So January, all payment and invoices are done, February the focus shifts to wrapping and posting which halve the time period between when the 1st and last is sent out.

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