rab

How long ago was it purchased?£10.99 at time of purchase may well be worth £15 or even more now.

It's beginning to sound like we're getting back to pre-1948 with the not so big 4 (or 5).

Having read through my original post again, I realised it may have been a case of 'too much information'. I've gone through and taken out some of the unnecessary stuff; hopefully it makes easier reading now.

With hindsight perhaps I have gone a bit OTT. My thinking was the available space is enough for the layout I have planned and it might be easier to control temperature and humidity in a confined space than in the existing garage with possibly damp coming through the single skin walls particularly the retaining wall. Still I will go away and give it some more thought

And I thought it was the noise from a steam loco chimney that gets us steam enthusiasts all excited.

I agree it does seem like there's a lot of work involved, but as cklammer points out, I have to make the garage secure in some way, so the windows or their equivalent would have to be done anyway. There is room in the garden for a shed, but I don't think the cost/work involved in putting the joists in etc would be much more than that involved in a shed.

Firstly,clarifying the title. According to the saying a camel is a horse designed by a committee. Well I’m throwing open my planned railway room to the wisdom of RM Web, hoping I won’t end up with a railway room with humps where they shouldn't be. We’ve recently moved to a 3 bed bungalow. I managed to negotiate the small bedroom for a study, (which will also see serve as a work room), but failed in my attempt to have the other room for the railway room. So thoughts turned to the garage. It’s a bit unusual. From the front it looks like this: But from the side it’s like this: The retaining wall for the path ends about 2ft (600mm) above the path. Above that are 2 rows of screen blocks. Mounted vertically in the wall are three 3” (75mm) dia steel tubes. Let into the top of these tubes is a 3” x 3” (75 x 75) steel ‘T’ section, which supports the roof. So the plan is: Remove the screen blocks in the 2 end sections Replace with 3 courses of blocks bringing the height approximately the same as the opposite wall. Lay joists across these 2 end sections. In the centre section, remove one course of blocks as well as the screen blocks, leaving a 6” (150mm) app step up and creating a doorway. 2ft (600mm) app back from the wall run a longitudinal joist between the ones at the ends. Fill in the remaining middle section with joists suspended from this ‘runner’ At the point where the runner meets the 2 full l’th joists, insert 2 vertical posts from the floor to the underside of the joists. Level with the base of the doorway, run 2 joists out to these vertical posts to support a floor. Here is a sectioned Isometric view attempting to show what I’m aiming for. I was thinking of using nominal 5 x 2 (125 x 50mm) joists. These would actually be ok for floor joists, but I’ve checked the span tables, and from what I can see, the difference between ceiling & floor joists for this span is minimal. I also thought about using 4 x 4 (100 x 100mm) for the vertical posts. I’d thought of letting the joists into these to provide better support, rather than just relying on a screwed joint. Another option might be to have 2 lengths of 4 x 2, one full length, and then 2 pieces screwed and glued to each leaving gaps for the joists. For all the other joist joints I was planning using joist hangers. I got a bit carried away with the blockwork. My original thought was, as I have a 9” (225mm) wide base, to make the additional 3 courses a cavity wall, Then I decided putting returns at the ends might make it stronger, but that gets complicated with inserting a damp proof barrier between inner and outer wall. It’s probably just as well to go with a 9” (225) solid wall, or even a single 4” (100mm)wide wall, if it will take the weight of the joists. I was thinking not to build around the steel tubes, possibly having removable sections (plywood?) inside and outside, so they can be checked for corrosion etc. This arrangement would give me the ‘U’ shaped section I need, for the proposed layout with a space in the middle to stand and operate it. The difference in height between the joists, (where the layout baseboard would be), and the floor from the doors, is about right for the height I need. I’ve shown a sliding door but I don’t think that will be practical. It only gives a 2ft opening. I don’t want the doors opening inwards, as it will encroach on the available space. I think I will have to ‘negotiate’ on doors opening out onto the path! So over to you guys. Suggestions and criticisms welcomed. Brian

Lovely stuff, thanks for sharing. "Thirty Seven Heaven". But how did that guy get away with no hi-vis.

Was shopping, (well pushing the trolley around) in Tesco in Plymouth; didn't notice anything.

Now to me there is almost as much skill in doing that (right)as there is driving an express loco at 80mph on the main line Couldn't help thinking the elf & safety bods would have a field day if some of that was done today. BTW what are the white discs on the bogies on some of the low wagons.

Don't think many people would put up with airline waiting times for trains.

I'm never too sure about the environmental benefits of hydrogen technology. OK burning the hydrogen is a pretty clean process, but how about producing the electricity to create the hydrogen in the first place

You forgot to add the bit about the waste products from the horse going back into the ground to help make the grass grow again.

OK, so which one of you lot read my post and then listed a whole load of Del Prado stuff last night.

My biggest annoyance: People who list a load of stuff, all at the same time, which is of no interest to me. I normally only search for n gauge, and every so often, someone will list, say a lot of Del Prado locos, all going live at the same time, which means I have to wade through all of that to get to the stuff that interests me. I know there's nothing wrong in what they're doing but the title of the thread is eBay annoyances.

As far as your advertising material goes, use a font where O & 0 are the same, (assuming there is one)!

No, please not again!

Is that the new Meldon Viaduct the train is crossing

I realise a forum is all about discussion, but this thread does seem to have run it's course, the same old arguments coming up again and again. I said when it started it was a can of worms. The OP may not have a clear answer, but I think they can see they have 3 options: 1. Don't use the loft as a home for a layout 2. Have the loft properly converted as a home for a layout. 3. Do a simple board it hope no one finds out/ nothing disastrous happens.

Sounds like we're heading for a short circuit.2 negatives coming together and sparks flying.

So in other words, the diesel is an onboard Thunderbird

Got through on that no this morning. Still a bit of a FAFF, but a lot easier than the online route. Thanks for the info.

Thanks, I'll try that one in the morning.

Having recently moved house, I have been working through a list of organisations I need to notify of my change of address. With one or two exceptions, it's been relatively straightforward until I got to H M R C. In order to inform them of my change of address, I have to register on their on line system. This registration involves, amongst other things, check with a credit agency! I know there has to be security but surely this is a check too far. Having tried twice and failed to register, I thought I would write instead. I tried googling the address for the local tax office, only to find a result saying you cannot write to or even call at the office. Surely another case of bureacracy gone mad.

Ooh you've just taken the lid off a can of big fat juicy worms!