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Show us yours - Realistic modelling


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4 minutes ago, chrissy said:

That hill looks real 😳 how do you make the plants and grass? Are you going to add sheep?

Thanks, all is explained in this shortish Video. I hope it helps Chrissy, And thanks, I like the Sheep idea, not thought of that.

 

Edited by Andrew P
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30 minutes ago, chrissy said:

These are great how do you take such clear close up photos? Any close ups of anything I take are blurry

 

Chrissy x

 

 

Those are by no means as clear as I would like.  Depth of field / focus is an issue when using mobile phone cameras but with the layout in a tiny space it's hard or impossible to get the DSLR in there to grab professional quality images with full depth.  

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13 minutes ago, Gwiwer said:

Those are by no means as clear as I would like.  Depth of field / focus is an issue when using mobile phone cameras but with the layout in a tiny space it's hard or impossible to get the DSLR in there to grab professional quality images with full depth.  

Nikon DSLR is what my neighbour uses for all his photography if that makes sense.

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29 minutes ago, chrissy said:

Nikon DSLR is what my neighbour uses for all his photography if that makes sense.

Perfect sense. I use a Canon EOS7 Mk1. But most photos of the layout are taken on the iPhone because of space limitations. 

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Close-up or macro photos need a bit of technique, but are not difficult.  The main problems are that the camera or phone must be held completely steady, and a tripod often prevents you getting the lens close enough to the subject, and that good light is needed to get the best DOF (depth of field, the range of distances from the lens that the image is in in focus) you can manage.  If you are using a camera or phone that allows you to alter the shutter speed, go for the highest shutter speed you can get away with, don't worry if the image is a little dark (I'll come back to this), as a high shutter speed will minimise any movement from an imperfect tripod arrangement, and enable the best DOF.  The more light you have, the faster the shutter speed can be, and if the light is very good you might even get away with hand holding the camera or phone, but I'd not recommend this.

 

If you use zoom or telephoto, the problems are worse, as the tiniest movement is enlarged as much as the image, and you need even more light.  If you can't get your lens close to the subject you will have to use zoom.  It's beginning to feel like a juggling act of controlling opposing forces.  If you can't use a tripod, set the camera or phone on something like a cloth mount in which it is sitting steadily, and use a timer delayed shutter release to prevent a manual release from moving the lens.  Sometimes a bit of innovation and bodgery is needed.

 

If the image is underexposed, but not hopelessly so, it can be brightened and the shadowy detail brought out in digital post-editing.  Some phone camera apps have this feature, and on a computer apps like Lightroom or some of the features in Apple 'Photo' will allow this.  It is, IMHO, better to deliberately underexpose a shot (to an extent) and bring the detail and light back up in post-editing than to overexpose it, in which case the detail is burned out and lost forever from the image file.

 

Bit of practice on small household objects should give you the skillsets needed for this. 

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