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Dapol 'Western'


Andy Y
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Precision Labels 3.6mm backlit blinds have arrived.

 

With very limited space, I think the rollers might just have enough space to revolve if linked by micro gears such as those available from Mikroantriebe. Some have a bore of just 0.6 or 0.7mm!

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Edited by Horsetan
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Western Parade.... who's who? (Finally got around to taking some pictures of Western models old and new)

 

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We definitely need a Dapol Western in Golden Ochre...

 

hmmm, top picture L-R...  Dapol, Heljan, Lima, Hornby?  

 

Makes me realise that the Lima isn't a bad job, once the windscreen shelf is dealt with, Heljan doesn't look too shabby but the Hornby model - cripes, it's an abomination! Possibly worse even than the Trix model?  It would be awesome to see this line up including the Trix version, wasn't it allegedly to 3.8mm/foot?  Were there any other OO westerns - MTK perhaps?  That would be a laugh.

 

Thanks for the pics - very interesting.  Dapol clearly the winner in the 'from every angle it's a Western' stakes.

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Think this was asked a while back but at 102 pages now I can't find it!

 

I'm interested in a D1062 from the Western Locomotive Asssociation (if they have any left of course) but can't find any direct contact details for WLA.  Send a couple of messages via their website but no answer.

 

Any ideas who to contact? 

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On the WLA website, go to the 'Sales' page. The bottom item "To celebrate the 50th anniversary of D1062.............." is a clicky for a downloadable order form for the model, complete with postal address and payment details. A £50 deposit will secure your pre-order. 

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Thanks Dave but I don't think I made it clear...I've seen that but I don't live in the UK, let alone, no longer have a cheque book!

 

So I'd like to contact them directly to see if electronic payment can be made.

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Thanks Dave but I don't think I made it clear...I've seen that but I don't live in the UK, let alone, no longer have a cheque book!

 

So I'd like to contact them directly to see if electronic payment can be made.

 

The WLA sales contact email is t.hallows015@btinternet.com

 

 

I'm in Portugal and have ordered one through that email address, so there shouldn't be a problem. I paid the deposit by bank transfer. I've been getting regular updates by email - the latest apologising for the delay and saying the factory in China "forgot" them when making the standard maroon SYP ones, but they should be here soon. And they still had some left unsold.

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I haven't seen much about fixing the roof lugs, this is my approach in case anyone finds it useful:

 

1. Tools required are a scalpel, a clean white post card, a needle and a pencil rubber. Push the needle through the rubber to make a handle for it.

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2. Place the edge of the scalpel against the moulding. I am not using an 'Optivisor' or equivalent, it is easy to feel when the blade is in the right place. Cut out the lug, keeping it on the post card.

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3. Lick a finger on your "secondary hand", touch the lug and pick it up. Then put the needle through the lug. My needle goes through about 2mm.

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4. Turn the lug so it is pointing downwards. Place a finger over the lug and put it into its recess on the roof. It seems best to work along the roof in the same direction as if you were putting emulsion paint on a wall, I should go left to right.

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5. Holding the lug in place with the needle, slide off your finger.

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6. Pull out the needle.

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7. Add a droplet of Mekpak or equivalent, let capilliary action draw it into the joint.

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As an optional extra, place a glass of The Macallan (12 year old) (substitutes possible) beside you when you start. Small doses seem to bring confidence and act as little rewards along the way. There are no spares provided, but if you are methodical then this seems to work well.

 

Edit: all 32 done, no losses, about two hours in all including writing this post. Be careful to keep the droplets of solvent really tiny. If it runs onto the painted roof it is best to leave it alone to evaporate; if you touch it you may damage the painted finish.

Edited by Richard1962
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Useful series of photos, Richard, though I winced at the second one :O My carpet monster must be much more agressive than yours.  For that reason, I used a slightly different method. Rather than a needle, I used a short length of 0.33mm brass wire and threaded each lug on to it in turn, cutting it from the etch with a pair of small Xuron shears whilst holding the wire between fingers:

 

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Other than that, my approach was quite similar, though I just put a dab of superglue on the end of the lug before pressing it into its hole rather than using a solvent glue.

 

Nick

Edited by buffalo
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Very handy tips thank you.  I only wish I had the steadiness and dexterity to make use of them.  On a good day you never know - the beast might yet appear with lugs on ;)

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*snip*

 

As an optional extra, place a glass of The Macallan (12 year old) (substitutes possible) beside you when you start. Small doses seem to bring confidence and act as little rewards along the way. There are no spares provided, but if you are methodical then this seems to work well.

 

Edit: all 32 done, no losses, about two hours in all including writing this post. Be careful to keep the droplets of solvent really tiny. If it runs onto the painted roof it is best to leave it alone to evaporate; if you touch it you may damage the painted finish.

 

So let me get this right: if I drip any of the Macallan on the painted roof, I shouldn't attempt to lick it off, but just let it evaporate?  Righto!

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... My carpet monster must be much more agressive than yours.  For that reason, I used a slightly different method. Rather than a needle, I used a short length of 0.33mm brass wire and threaded each lug on to it in turn, cutting it from the etch with a pair of small Xuron shears whilst holding the wire between fingers:

 

attachicon.gif1001-01.JPG

 

Other than that, my approach was quite similar, though I just put a dab of superglue on the end of the lug before pressing it into its hole rather than using a solvent glue.

 

At my step number 2, I put a finger over the top of the blade before cutting so the loose lug can only stay where it is on the post card. Then I pick up the sprue using the scalpel, move it away from the lug, and go on to step 3. You need to keep a "dry finger" for step 2, separate from the one you keep wetting to pick up the lug in the step 3. (This could have been another photo at position 2.5, but it would have shown only a collection of fingers).

 

I found the needle helpful because the taper means the lug always stops in the same place and the process becomes quite consistent from one lug to the next. However someone might like to blend the two techniques together: hold the lug on the needle and then cut it off with the side cutters. If the carpet monster is a problem, you could try working inside a clear plastic bag.

 

I did cheat a bit, I put two or three lugs in 'dry' and then added the solvent. This would be impossible using super glue, so perhaps the solvent approach is a bit quicker.

 

"To lose one lug may be regarded as a misfortune; to lose any of The Macallan looks like carelessness".

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It's mid winter here.  The evening temperature is slightly less than one complete degree.  The heating is on full. 

 

I'm worried that the Macallan (which here is 14 year old Oban) might evaporate between sips.   :O

 

It's also not a great idea to play with adhesives and solvents in such an environment.  I'll wait until I can open the window in comfort.   ;)

Edited by Gwiwer
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It's mid winter here.  The evening temperature is slightly less than one complete degree.  The heating is on full. 

 

I'm worried that the Macallan (which here is 14 year old Oban) might evaporate between sips.   :O

 

It's also not a great idea to play with adhesives and solvents in such an environment.  I'll wait until I can open the window in comfort.   ;)

The temperature here in Hythe on the Kentish Riviera is not much better and we had to resort to the single malt to warm our bones last night.

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The accessory bag supplied includes buffer beam piping, door and side steps if curve clearance permits, dummy and tension lock couplings, speedometer cable and scale brakes for mounting at each end of each bogie (if you don't want your model to traverse any curves!). 

 

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I am working my way through my accessory bag. There are four tension lock couplers in there instead of two, but the two "broad fluid fillers" which go into the sole bars on the opposite side to the speedo cables are missing. What do these represent, so I know what to ask Dapol for? (The other contents of the bag are complete and correct).

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Yes, "Sand box 2". (The narrower version beside the speedo cables being "Sand box 1"). The spares page is quite informative about all the hoses too!. Many thanks.

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Have not read every entry so apologies if this has already been answered.

 

Does anyone know if any replacement body screws are available yet...

 

I need four for two loco's..

 

Lovely looking loco's but a nightmare getting the screws out I must say...

 

I guess I'll ring DCC tomorrow...

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