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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement


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8 hours ago, ayrmrg said:

I was told last year by a Hattons member of staff that the demand for the 66's was still very high and not to be surprised if there was another run. Here's hoping.

 

I like many persevered with them. I think they are miles better than any other 66 on the market. At least Hattons made an effort to match up the correct side windows with the specific loco.

 

Here's some of my collection. 

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Screenshot_20220219-115202_Gallery.jpg

 

Screenshot_20220705-000633_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20210626-095239_Video Editor.jpg

The photos just look so real....

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3 minutes ago, Torbay Express said:

I think it truly depends on what people want with DCC.  Larger the loco fleet, more likely to stick with DC, I suspect.  I do have a few DCC sound locomotives for the play value, but mainly DC.  If I did my big layout then a plan for a smallish DCC level on top (never had success with DCC on DC controller, but main thing DC.  Also for point control etc., mainlines DCC for route setting on mainlines, plus signalls.   Yard points and depot  controlled by push button or stud and probe.  

 

 

 

We seem to be digressing here.

Older decoders were poor on DC. This gradually changed some time ago though. A decent decoder will work better on DC than a DC loco. That may sound bizarre but when running slowly, the biggest problem with DC is getting current between rail & wheels because the voltage is low. A fitted loco starts at a higher voltage, which is more able to push the current across this connection.

Further to that, if you have a loco which prefers feedback, the motor's 'controller' is the decoder. You can customise each decoder to the motor it controls. The layout controller must not be feedback, but if the motor prefers it, the decoder can provide it. That sounds pretty neat to me.

DCC can do whatever you want for point & signal control. If you are ok with pressing buttons on the handset, this works. I have found that is ok only a very small layout or as you suggest for setting an entire route.

If you want a panel, there are products available which allow you to build a panel which sends commands to the system & that then throws the point.

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8 hours ago, ayrmrg said:

I was told last year by a Hattons member of staff that the demand for the 66's was still very high and not to be surprised if there was another run. Here's hoping.

 

 

 

No need to hope. That is as close to an announcement as you could ever wish for.

They have invested a lot in tooling. Many have suggested that they have already made money on this from the first run. But now they have the tooling, do you really think they will just throw it away? Of course not.

 

The 66s have been common for the last 25 years. Many who have bought one or more will want another or more. It makes no sense to saturate the market so those who may want one will not be able to afford them. Nothing makes money sitting on shelves so it is better to wait until customers will be able to buy them.

 

I am sure there are many out there who want more 66s. Save up now, then you will be ready when they are announced.

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I think it’s a safe bet there will be plenty more as indicated above. The 66’s will always have new liveries until the day they get scrapped! Plenty of new liveries are sure to pop up. 

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1 hour ago, No Decorum said:

That’s a very good point. I have long felt that there is a great need for a hand-held controller which is programmable.

 

I think the Z21 app does that although it's a while since I have used it.

 

9 hours ago, big jim said:

quite simply there are that many functions on the latest chips it’s got too complicated and takes the fun out of just watching trains go by when you have to start messing with lots of different button combinations for various modes

 

I think it depends what you want from it. My layout is automated as I like watching the trains rather than driving them, but I can also set certain things to happen in certain places (such as a horn or squeal) automatically.

 

I have a few sound locos, although all I have on order from Accurascale are sound as it makes sense at a £90 premium. Most others the difference was similar to what I could do it retrospectively so wouldn't matter. I aren't a million miles off with what locos I want and so my theory is to sound fit things when the rush of locos finishes (if it ever does)

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1 hour ago, Hilux5972 said:

I think it’s a safe bet there will be plenty more as indicated above. The 66’s will always have new liveries until the day they get scrapped! Plenty of new liveries are sure to pop up. 

 

And older liveries painted over..

66720 has lost the kids sun and stars.

66720 TnT 66729

 

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2 hours ago, TomScrut said:

 

I think the Z21 app does that although it's a while since I have used it.

 

 

I think it depends what you want from it. My layout is automated as I like watching the trains rather than driving them, but I can also set certain things to happen in certain places (such as a horn or squeal) automatically.

 

I have a few sound locos, although all I have on order from Accurascale are sound as it makes sense at a £90 premium. Most others the difference was similar to what I could do it retrospectively so wouldn't matter. I aren't a million miles off with what locos I want and so my theory is to sound fit things when the rush of locos finishes (if it ever does)

 

The Z21 app does which i use on my mobile (used as a temporary stop gap as I haven't got round to finding anything else I like). They keep adding symbols so you can allocate functions to symbols which i find easier to use than function numbers even though I try to have the same function doing the same thing across the fleet.

 

I haven't fallen for sound and tend to find i get a bit irrated by it tbh so all my 66s are the silent type. Mind you they still eat up 10 functions for the lights.... I wired mine to have markers, tail, night, day and cab lights independent for each end.

 

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1 hour ago, TomScrut said:

 

It's hardly computer programming but it is also each to their own!

 

I tried DCC about 15 years ago. I was hooked by running a loco up to the next, driving the first a few cm along the track then following it with the 2nd & buffering up again...& I could do this anywhere I wanted.

I then tried setting acceleration/deceleration. A couple of simple changes which made trains more far realistically than turning a dial & much better than inertia on some DC 'trollers.

Having lights permanently on was also an advantage.

 

I would have been happy with that, but there s a lot more available for anyone who wants it.

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20 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

I tried DCC about 15 years ago. I was hooked by running a loco up to the next, driving the first a few cm along the track then following it with the 2nd & buffering up again...& I could do this anywhere I wanted.

I then tried setting acceleration/deceleration. A couple of simple changes which made trains more far realistically than turning a dial & much better than inertia on some DC 'trollers.

Having lights permanently on was also an advantage.

 

I would have been happy with that, but there s a lot more available for anyone who wants it.

Like anything, horses for courses.  Big layout with a few mainlines, less advantages - 4 locomotives thrashing around, plus wheel noise,  than a yard or depot set up where lots of shunting etc., to bring it to life.  Certainly you can drive a Hattons Class 66, my 7year old even blows up the air before moving off on a train. Something that I am sure even the most hard core rivet counter and perfectionist never does!  Never even seen it at an exhibition.  

 

One thing Hattons never did and I bet A/S never did  on their Deltic sound models - the cut out for the field diverts, in the mid 30mphs!  Likewise brake test would be a very good function to have, as required on all air braked trains, with latching function so the user can close the tap when they choose, and loco can blow up air again....

 

I think that the main thing with DCC is how technically advanced you want to go. Clearly you can do much more than just run a train.  I think it is changing CVs that frightens some people. 

 

Loathe to use DCC sound on DC controller though, as in the past it blew two sound chips - one Hornby, one Bachmann!  Whether it's something with an HM2000?  

 

Specifics of Hattons Class 66, don't work properly on Hornbys current train set controller - lights go wrong.  Sent two back before realising......

 

Likewise double heading with a cheap trainset controller trips after a couple of seconds.  Cannot take it the meaty monsters!

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On 06/07/2022 at 22:28, Colin_McLeod said:

 That's a very realistic layout. Looks like prototype pictures.

Thanks. The bottom two are from my days at Ayr MRG. The layout is Pathhead which was roughly based on New Cumnock on the G+SWR. The top two are on my own layout. All taken on a Samsung Android phone. 

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Hi, ive recently purchased 'The Pink ONE' from a friend, its got some bits that need glueing back on, namely the etched side radiator grill, now ive placed it in position but im rather nervous about going ahead with the glueing as i dont want to ruin the etch or the paintwork, anyone got any tips on how to do it that i may not have thought of?

Im thinking poor out some glue and place it and spread with the end of a pin?

 

cheers 

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42 minutes ago, GEARJAMMER said:

Hi, ive recently purchased 'The Pink ONE' from a friend, its got some bits that need glueing back on, namely the etched side radiator grill, now ive placed it in position but im rather nervous about going ahead with the glueing as i dont want to ruin the etch or the paintwork, anyone got any tips on how to do it that i may not have thought of?

Im thinking poor out some glue and place it and spread with the end of a pin?

 

cheers 

Basically I have done a few in the style you suggest. Pour some glue out and using a cocktail stick dab a few blobs neatly in the appropriate places. I did corners, one extra blob on shorter lengths and 2 on longer bits. Position grill and then I Tamiya masking taped them in position and left for 24 hours ish. Worked a treat numerous times.

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42 minutes ago, GEARJAMMER said:

Hi, ive recently purchased 'The Pink ONE' from a friend, its got some bits that need glueing back on, namely the etched side radiator grill, now ive placed it in position but im rather nervous about going ahead with the glueing as i dont want to ruin the etch or the paintwork, anyone got any tips on how to do it that i may not have thought of?

Im thinking poor out some glue and place it and spread with the end of a pin?

 

cheers 


I always use matt varnish applied using a cocktail stick. If it needs to be held down in place I either use some Tamiya masking tape or anything small enough without the risk of damaging the etch like a small Humbrol paint tin. I’d leave it a good 24 hours before attempting to remove the weight or masking tape and afterwards I’d run around the edge with some more Matt varnish using a small paintbrush just to make sure it doesn’t come loose again anytime soon. Again, leaving it another 24hours or so before handling it.

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All good tips.

 

Here's my approach.

 

Bend the grille so it's roughly the shape of the roof or flat ifs the side grilles.. . (Some of mine benefited from this as they wanted to spring off)

 

A bit of masking tape to hold in place (but not where you're doing the first glue). Then glue a small section holding down with cocktail sticks till they grab. Roof Grille I tend to do the middle peak bit... flat ill do a corner. I use cheap runny superglue so if u see too much a quick dap of kitchen roll takes up excess quickly.

 

Then using a super thin bit of metal (I use bits of shawplan roof grille offcuts), decant a bit of superglue in a dish and then on one side only pickup small amounts of glue. As the other side is dry you can skim it under the grille edge without getting glue on the paintwork... hold in place with a cocktail stick or similar till the section grabs then move onto another section. Less glue is better as superglue only needs small amounts. If you can't slide the metal underneath the edge of the grille all is good.

 

I avoid using much masking tape as from experience capillary action of the glue always seeks out the tape and clogs the grilles.

 

Hope this helps and good luck!

 

I managed to remove the factory glue marks from the roof (a hattons special ;) ) with t cut so the paint seems quite resilient.

 

Will

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I’ve not been on here for awhile but it seems that the ongoing issues that first appeared, are still ongoing.  Is there any whispers of a second run or has that all died a quiet death?  
 

Without mentioning anyone in particular, their first diesel sold out and now they have announced that a second run is on the cards.  Seems a shame that Hatton’s have gone very, very quiet.

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2 minutes ago, jools1959 said:

I’ve not been on here for awhile but it seems that the ongoing issues that first appeared, are still ongoing.  Is there any whispers of a second run or has that all died a quiet death?  
 

Without mentioning anyone in particular, their first diesel sold out and now they have announced that a second run is on the cards.  Seems a shame that Hatton’s have gone very, very quiet.

 

They invested a lot in tooling. Even if they have recovered these costs, a second batch can be produced with minimal extra tooling, therefore higher profit.

The first batch did have issues. They would be silly not to investigate these, decide what can be done to resolve them, work out the costs of doing so against the costs of customer service needed to deal with these & the effect this will have on future sales. This takes time, then they have to place an order for manufacture some time in advance.

The first batch suffered many delays. These were largely out of Hattons control but still made them look bad. The general trend is for manufacturers to now announce their new models closer to availability. This seems to keep moans away so I would expect Hattons to follow this trend.

 

So no, we have not heard anything. I fully expect them to make another batch but that is just my own expectation. I would be surprised if we hear any more about them until shortly before they are expected.

If I wanted another 66, I would be saving now.

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11 minutes ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

They invested a lot in tooling. Even if they have recovered these costs, a second batch can be produced with minimal extra tooling, therefore higher profit.

The first batch did have issues. They would be silly not to investigate these, decide what can be done to resolve them, work out the costs of doing so against the costs of customer service needed to deal with these & the effect this will have on future sales. This takes time, then they have to place an order for manufacture some time in advance.

The first batch suffered many delays. These were largely out of Hattons control but still made them look bad. The general trend is for manufacturers to now announce their new models closer to availability. This seems to keep moans away so I would expect Hattons to follow this trend.

 

So no, we have not heard anything. I fully expect them to make another batch but that is just my own expectation. I would be surprised if we hear any more about them until shortly before they are expected.

If I wanted another 66, I would be saving now.

 

The vast majority of issues - apart from the lighting error with the bugeye locos [*] - IMO - were nothing more than inadequate QC.

 

Otherwise, a superb model and some of the £99 locos were exceptional bargains.

[*] The bugeye lighting fix is less than a tenner from Illuminated Models.

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2 hours ago, newbryford said:

Regarding another production run.

Has anyone asked Hattons directly?


I have earlier this year but all got was ‘we have no immediate plans’.  Make of that as you will.

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