Jump to content
 

Rapido OO Gauge LMS Dia1666 5-plank open


AY Mod
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
15 minutes ago, 57xx said:

It's also highlighted a painting error on my kits, I forgot to paint the drawhook plate black on the one kit I pulled out for comparion.

 

Indeed, a practice inherited from the Midland and lacking on too many of my Midland models. But once the grey paint had darkened and the drawbar plate accumulated a good coating of grime, I'm hoping it wouldn't have been too evident!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, Oldddudders said:
54 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

Well stap me vitals! A generous contributor to this thread has offered me some Kadee 19s gratuit! 

 

Thanks Rob!

At 75 next month I am trying to inhibit my inner-Victor Meldrew!

 

I don't believe it.😁

  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think I've seen a better executed, or vital, piece of rolling stock than these. If I were to replicate some of the Clee Hill photos I've picked up over the years researching the trains for Hill Top, I could legitimately load the layout to capacity with nothing but D1666s. Trying to build free enough running PO kits weighted for gravity working is pretty much redundant now too. Between these and the RCH 1907s Rapido are going to clean out a huge chunk of my modelling budget. Absolutely sublime!

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Mine is settling in nicely to it's work in the general merchandise fleet, but there is, even before you start clocking the details, something fundamentally 'right' about this wagon.  I have others that exhibit this subjective and unquantifiable quality, notably a Hornby 4-vent meat van (perhaps because it is such a culture shock after the Airfix kit versions I struggled with for years) and Baccy LNER sliding door vanfits in both late LNE and early BR bauxite liveries.  This Rapido wagon, the first I've had from them and you can tell I'm impressed, is at a different of detail, especially underneath, though.  I would be very surprised not to see more of them at Cwmdimbath, possibly one in late LMS...

 

Reasonable price for an item of this quality as well.

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Premium
On 07/10/2023 at 21:55, 57xx said:

 

Have the pockets been moved back to get a better coupling distance? I seem to recall the other wagons got a bit of stick for the large gap between them with the way the couplings were located.

 

Yep we have tried to put the coupling back where possible. On some vehicles we can't move it due to axles/brake gear etc. getting in the way, but we've tried to address it.

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, JustinDean said:

Lovely model - well done Rapido. 
I’ve started weathering my rake of seven:

 

That's brilliant work. I particularly like the ones where the lettering is practically invisible. Although I model early BR, I've bought one in LMS livery with the intention of doing something like that, the aim being to portray a wagon that hasn't yet found its way into the paintshop. Do you mind sharing what paints/tools/techniques you've used to do that?

  • Agree 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
10 minutes ago, MarkSG said:

 

That's brilliant work. I particularly like the ones where the lettering is practically invisible. Although I model early BR, I've bought one in LMS livery with the intention of doing something like that, the aim being to portray a wagon that hasn't yet found its way into the paintshop. Do you mind sharing what paints/tools/techniques you've used to do that?

Hi Mark, the technique is:

 

Rub along the length of the planks with a fibre pen to produce light scoring.

Use the tip of a scalpel to very lightly produce some deeper scoring, again only running along the length of planks. 
A wash of black acrylic over everything. 
When dry some dabs of rust acrylic on bolt heads and other protruding metal parts. 
Dry brush some rust onto corner plates. 
Wash of underframe dirt acrylic on solebars, brake gear and axleboxes. 
Pick out some repaired planks in natural wood color. The acrylic I had was actually ‘stone’ but it was the best match for the photos to hand. Some darker greys were also used for a couple of planks. 
Once this was all absolutely dry (next day in this case) all the planks had Humbrol black powder worked in with a small make up brush. This was then partially removed with a cotton bud and is the point where you can decide just how heavy you’re going to have the weathering. 
Humbrol red oxide was very sparingly used on metal work and if too much ended up on the wagon this was again removed with a cotton bud. 
Spray the wagon to seal with a light misting of matt acrylic varnish.

 

Use photos as reference!

 

Jay

  • Like 5
  • Informative/Useful 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 15/11/2023 at 21:06, RapidoCorbs said:

Yep we have tried to put the coupling back where possible.

Good thinking. Ignore the NEM positioning dimensions, use what's best for OO.

 

If you want to go further in this helpful direction, mould guide lines on the coupling pocket exterior at 1mm intervals to aid owners in shortening the pockets.

 

Over twenty years ago I standardised on the Bachmann* pattern miniature tension lock on my loose coupled wagons, shortening the pockets and coupler tails to place the bumper bar face in the same plane as the buffer faces. The wagons then buffer up when propelled, but are fully prevented from buffer locking, pull out to 2mm between buffer faces, so the train has a good loose coupled action. This works down to 24" radius (with short 9' wb wagons it works on R3).

 

*When Bachmann started on the path of 'good models of really common wagons' (which Rapido and like minded brands have now happily picked up on) I quickly determined that the then available miniature tension lock designs were not fully compatible if operational reliability was required. Standardising on a single product worked. Once I have sufficient samples of current brand's MTL's I shall rerun the compatability test programme.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
4 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Good thinking. Ignore the NEM positioning dimensions, use what's best for OO.

 

If you want to go further in this helpful direction, mould guide lines on the coupling pocket exterior at 1mm intervals to aid owners in shortening the pockets.

 

Over twenty years ago I standardised on the Bachmann* pattern miniature tension lock on my loose coupled wagons, shortening the pockets and coupler tails to place the bumper bar face in the same plane as the buffer faces. The wagons then buffer up when propelled, but are fully prevented from buffer locking, pull out to 2mm between buffer faces, so the train has a good loose coupled action. This works down to 24" radius (with short 9' wb wagons it works on R3).

 

*When Bachmann started on the path of 'good models of really common wagons' (which Rapido and like minded brands have now happily picked up on) I quickly determined that the then available miniature tension lock designs were not fully compatible if operational reliability was required. Standardising on a single product worked. Once I have sufficient samples of current brand's MTL's I shall rerun the compatability test programme.

 

This is exactly what I've decided on for goods stock and it works a treat! 

 

Having tried various methods for uncoupling I've gone back to the simple plastic 'shunters pole' developed by Tri-ang 60 or 70 years ago. In my case a length of white plasticard with the  last ½ inch turned up. Buffer the wagons up,  lift up the hooks with the pole and drive the engine away. Works every time! 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Good thinking. Ignore the NEM positioning dimensions, use what's best for OO.

 

If you want to go further in this helpful direction, mould guide lines on the coupling pocket exterior at 1mm intervals to aid owners in shortening the pockets.

 

Over twenty years ago I standardised on the Bachmann* pattern miniature tension lock on my loose coupled wagons, shortening the pockets and coupler tails to place the bumper bar face in the same plane as the buffer faces. The wagons then buffer up when propelled, but are fully prevented from buffer locking, pull out to 2mm between buffer faces, so the train has a good loose coupled action. This works down to 24" radius (with short 9' wb wagons it works on R3).

 

*When Bachmann started on the path of 'good models of really common wagons' (which Rapido and like minded brands have now happily picked up on) I quickly determined that the then available miniature tension lock designs were not fully compatible if operational reliability was required. Standardising on a single product worked. Once I have sufficient samples of current brand's MTL's I shall rerun the compatability test programme.

I’ve also standardised on the Bachmann short tension locks - even without shortening the pocket, they bring Rapido wagons closer together - I wish manufacturers would follow the Bachmann model, with has a shorter spacing section at the base of the coupling and therefore allow closer coupling while still being able to negotiate tight curves.

  • Like 3
  • Agree 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
6 hours ago, BenL said:

I’ve also standardised on the Bachmann short tension locks - even without shortening the pocket, they bring Rapido wagons closer together - I wish manufacturers would follow the Bachmann model, with has a shorter spacing section at the base of the coupling and therefore allow closer coupling while still being able to negotiate tight curves.

 

Same here, short cranked ones so I can also slam the pocket up under the chassis so its a little less intrusive. With the Bachmann short coupling you can still have the end of the pocket level with the buffer beam and get close coupling. Maybe something to look at for future Rapido models? That would help on short wheelbase wagons and also please people swapping for other coupling types.

image.png

  • Like 1
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 21/11/2023 at 10:27, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

 

Over twenty years ago I standardised on the Bachmann* pattern miniature tension lock on my loose coupled wagons, shortening the pockets and coupler tails to place the bumper bar face in the same plane as the buffer faces. The wagons then buffer up when propelled, but are fully prevented from buffer locking, pull out to 2mm between buffer faces, so the train has a good loose coupled action.

If you could attach a photo showing the underneath of a wagon altered as you describe that would be extremely useful. Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, prtrainman said:

If you could attach a photo showing the underneath of a wagon altered as you describe that would be extremely useful. Thanks.

No digital camera chez moi. But...

On 21/11/2023 at 10:38, TrevorP1 said:

This is exactly what I've decided on for goods stock and it works a treat! 

Perhaps Trevor can oblige?

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
49 minutes ago, County of Yorkshire said:

Hattons current have these at just 17 sheets in their Black Friday sale. I’ve picked up a few, and at that price, I’m not afraid to detail & weather them! 

Thanks for the heads up!  Just added a handful to the collection under the "rude not to" clause😎

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

The principle is exactly as in Trevor's  photograph above.

 

How much shortening can be applied depends on the minimum radius curve on the layout, which the owner has to determine.

 

I can take an extra millimetre out on short wheelbase wagons, so that with a rule across the bufferheads, the front of the 'bumper bar is in contact with the rule. That works down to 24" centreline radius plain  track and Peco medium radius and 36" radius kit points for 4W wagons up to 10' wheelbase.

 

For 4W wagons in the 12' to 16' wheelbase range the coupling will be positioned much as the above photo.

 

Caveat: the wagons cannot be uncoupled on curves, because all the slack in the usual spacing arrangement is taken up

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...